Driving truck and just stoped - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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Driving truck and just stoped

Was driving and turn corner on a street and the truck just quit running . I pull over and just sat for a minute turn key on everything seems to be working , so I turn key and the truck just crank around like it want to start but didn't . ANY THOUGHTS
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 11:56 PM
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is you tach is moving when cranking? if not change you CPS (Cam Position Sensor)

F350 2002 7.3

auto, 37/13.5/20 open country, Bushwaker cut-out flare, Bilstein 5100, Maxtow gauges (EGT, Trans temp, Boost), 4 inch diamond eye turbo back axel drop with BTM muffler, S&B intake, RR AIH plug, billet FPR with gold spring, CNCfab Sgt 1 HPOP, CNCfab HPOP line with cross over, CNCfab 4 line fuel kit, ARP heads stud, RDP plenum reinforcing insert, complete CAC intercooler boot kit, full engine seal and gasket kit, 360* turbo rebuilt, WWII, EGPV delete, dark blue CPS, Hydra chip with SDK tunes, Polished compressor manifold, HD coolant, 203* thermostat, Transgo HD kit, Energy suspension bushing kit, front and rear diff fully rebuilt with 4:88 gear ratio, Z36 powerstop heavy hauling brake kit, headlight relay mod, Fumoto drain valve AND STICKER

F350 2008 6.4 (sold)

TT 26' Springdale 2014
7x17 enclose trailer (shop) 2012
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 10:47 AM
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This happened to me once, although I was not turning a corner - just going straight and slowing for a stop light. Truck died and then wouldn't do anything but crank. It turned out to be a high pressure oil problem. Check your IPR valve. I'm not sure what year your truck is, but on my 2007, you can pull it without removing the turbo if you have the special socket tool. Look at the screen and see if it is clogged / damaged. Replace the screen if necessary. Make sure you run some WD-40 through the valve while pressing on it with something (I used a small screwdriver) to clean out anything that may have lodged in there.

Replace the IPR valve and see if it will start. If you have any kind of scanning tool, look at the ICP reading while you crank. You need to have at least 500 psi for it to start. If you are not getting that, then it's a leak in the HPO system somewhere - likely causes are STC fitting, standpipe, dummy plugs. I wound up replacing all of these when I had my problem, just as preventative maintenance.

If this isn't your problem, then maybe one of the experts on here will chime in and offer some advice.

'17 F250 Lariat Short Bed CC 4WD w/ 6.7 PSD that I paid WAY too much for!
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 11:22 AM
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The cps isn't a problem with the 6.0s. You need data.... What you can do is check your oil. Make sure it is full. Check that the upper fuel filter is full. Then unplug the sensor that is in the middle of the passenger side valve cover and see if it will start. Most likely if you haven't changed the FICM that is probably what it is but once again you need data. This is a good time to invest in a scan gauge 2 (auto parts store or online) or a edge insight. They will tell you your voltages and pressures. You need a minimum of 45v from the ficm (will run into the mid 30s), you need 500psi (high pressure oil) to run, although if it starts with the sensor unplugged that that suggests a bad sensor, ipr or HPOP. So you really need some way to see the computer data and there are tons of "no start" check lists on the web. One of which is on the main page of this forum (link here). Lastly we need more info from you. Year truck, engine, miles and so on. Good luck.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rock_doctor View Post
The cps isn't a problem with the 6.0s.
Good point!!! was getting late yesterday didn't realize it was the 6.0

most people use AE, really good investement

F350 2002 7.3

auto, 37/13.5/20 open country, Bushwaker cut-out flare, Bilstein 5100, Maxtow gauges (EGT, Trans temp, Boost), 4 inch diamond eye turbo back axel drop with BTM muffler, S&B intake, RR AIH plug, billet FPR with gold spring, CNCfab Sgt 1 HPOP, CNCfab HPOP line with cross over, CNCfab 4 line fuel kit, ARP heads stud, RDP plenum reinforcing insert, complete CAC intercooler boot kit, full engine seal and gasket kit, 360* turbo rebuilt, WWII, EGPV delete, dark blue CPS, Hydra chip with SDK tunes, Polished compressor manifold, HD coolant, 203* thermostat, Transgo HD kit, Energy suspension bushing kit, front and rear diff fully rebuilt with 4:88 gear ratio, Z36 powerstop heavy hauling brake kit, headlight relay mod, Fumoto drain valve AND STICKER

F350 2008 6.4 (sold)

TT 26' Springdale 2014
7x17 enclose trailer (shop) 2012
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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This is what the mechanic said high pressure oil pump going to replace not cheap
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rock_doctor View Post
The cps isn't a problem with the 6.0s. You need data.... What you can do is check your oil. Make sure it is full. Check that the upper fuel filter is full. Then unplug the sensor that is in the middle of the passenger side valve cover and see if it will start. Most likely if you haven't changed the FICM that is probably what it is but once again you need data. This is a good time to invest in a scan gauge 2 (auto parts store or online) or a edge insight. They will tell you your voltages and pressures. You need a minimum of 45v from the ficm (will run into the mid 30s), you need 500psi (high pressure oil) to run, although if it starts with the sensor unplugged that that suggests a bad sensor, ipr or HPOP. So you really need some way to see the computer data and there are tons of "no start" check lists on the web. One of which is on the main page of this forum (link here). Lastly we need more info from you. Year truck, engine, miles and so on. Good luck.
its 03 f350 dually 4 x 4 miles 117000
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-03-2016, 08:10 PM
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An '03 with 117K on it I would put money on a bad HPOP, although you still need to get something like a Scangauge 2 on it to check numbers. These engines are too complex and expensive to just throw parts at. If you do find out that it is the HPOP take a look at the Diesel Site Adrenaline pump. It is not cheap, but it is as bulletproof a pump as you can get for an early style 6.0 pump. The rebuilt stock pumps seem to be some what hit and miss as to they will work right out of the box, and how long they last.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-04-2016, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by jetjockey99 View Post
An '03 with 117K on it I would put money on a bad HPOP, although you still need to get something like a Scangauge 2 on it to check numbers. These engines are too complex and expensive to just throw parts at. If you do find out that it is the HPOP take a look at the Diesel Site Adrenaline pump. It is not cheap, but it is as bulletproof a pump as you can get for an early style 6.0 pump. The rebuilt stock pumps seem to be some what hit and miss as to they will work right out of the box, and how long they last.
Super solid advice.

'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, RCD 175/30 injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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