Infamous no oil pressure on dash - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-01-2019, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by klhansen View Post
What exactly is your issue? Is it just that the oil pressure gauge doesn't work at all?

Your posts are all over the place and I for one have trouble following what the actual issue is. If it's just that the gauge doesn't work, but everything else is works OK (which you've indicated it does - as far as I can tell), then you have to look at the gauge and it's supporting wiring.

I was thinking the same thing.


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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-19-2019, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry, been out a bit and fighting the flu.

If I go on the interstate and get oil hot like anything above 210 then when I imediatly get off the interstate and hit a red light the oil pressure (gauge- low oil side) will drop to zero. Changed hpop, icp with pigtail, IPR a few times. All power is there. I have still yet to do a mechanical low pressure oil reading. It hasnt done it since last IPR from Ford but I also havent driven it to get oil temp up there yet.


Also yanked regulator in lower pressure pump again for a look see and its clean as a whistle.


Thanks

2002 F250 7.3 ext sb
2003 F350 DRW 4x4 CC LB
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-19-2019, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bismic View Post
If you have all the power you expect and it runs great, I don't see how it can be in the high pressure oil system - anywhere.

A healthy high pressure oil system CAN pull down the pressure in the low pressure system if it isn't providing enough flow.

Are you sure that the oil filter drain valve isn't allowing oil in the filter housing to drain back to the oil pan? It can happen w/ a tall oil filter cap and an OEM filter, or if the drain valve is broken.

maybe the low pressure oil pressure regulator is sticking?

Without data it is all guess work.

Bullet proof oil cooler. I do not have the oil filter up top anymore.

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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-19-2019, 01:21 PM
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Edit - nm. I saw where you checked the regulator.

Now all that is missing is a mechanical pressure reading.
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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-19-2019, 10:31 PM
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Look behind oil filter housing to the left. Find the one wire oil pressure switch. Cuss a lot as you find the release tab oriented in the spot making it hardest to depress to unplug wire. Unplug the wire connector and see if oil is in the connector. Replace the switch and see if problem is gone. The oil pressure switch is removed to check oil pressure and the fitting needed is a metric thread most oil pressure gauges you'll find won't have in the kit. The switch is $20 on amazon for Motorcraft SW5267. That is half the price of the auto stores for their off brand and you don't have to leave your house to get it next day if you have Prime.
As has already been said, the oil pressure switches fail on these engines and many other Ford models using that same switch. It can do it anywhere from 16 miles to 336000 miles and in one week or 14 years.
The oil pressure gauge is not a gauge on your truck. It goes to a fixed point when the oil pressure switch gets at least 8 psi (yes Ford lied to millions of customers for a couple of decades with this fixed point "gauge" system that is nothing more capable than an oil pressure warning light).

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post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-20-2019, 05:36 AM
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He stated that he replaced that switch THREE TIMES.

And STILL has yet to perform an oil pressure test with a mechanical gauge to see if this is an actual low oil pressure concern or not.
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post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-20-2019, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Correct, oil pressure (6-8 psi) switch has been replaced. I have to dedicate the time to install mechanical gauge to route in truck as a hand held deal and get her hot on the interstate then jump off and see what is actually occuring. I will post when done. I may just have fixed it with new IPR but have yet to find out. Ill post my results

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post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, ran it this am bringing son to school. Oil temp has to be at 220 or higher for this to happen. Only happens then and at red light in gear or in park. Idle must be 750 for light to go out and gauge to pop on. No mechanical pressure reading yet but I have to change the water pump (got BPD unit coming). I think Im going to change the lpop while there. Also going hydraulic fan clutch and yanking stator for trash can.
ICP: 782, ICP V: .9, IPR: 24%, EOT: 222, FICM: 48.5, Fuel PR: 59.2, EGT: 396 all at 650 idle with OP gauge zero.



Figure when water pump is off it is too easy not to yank the balancer and at least look at the gears. But I firmly believe thats where my issue lies. Air test through IPR hole reveals NO hp leaks.

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post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 10:25 PM
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Despite the advice, you are going to replace parts (the LPOP) BEFORE checking the pressure?? I truly don't understand why you have posted this thread if you don't respect the advice. You certainly may find an issue w/ the LPOP, but it really is a poor method of troubleshooting. You have spent a LOT of money already just guessing.

One thing I learned a long time ago is that the (very) knowledgeable Techs on these forums will go to great lengths to help you, but only if you listen to and heed the troubleshooting advice.
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post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 12:31 AM
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I agree with Bismic. The LPOP is NOT going to be your problem. That's going to be dumping money down the drain. It's about the last thing that would cause oil pressure to immediately drop, in any situation. LP oil pressure may degrade over time, but definitely won't heal itself when things cool down.
As has been advised, get a mechanical gauge on it to see what's really happening. With the oil pressure gauge being a pseudo-gauge that just responds to a switch, I would suspect a wire that's opening intermittently when the engine gets hot.

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post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Point is well taken. If it were electrical and something is opening hot, then why if skinny pedal brings rpm up to 750 rpm does the problem go away?

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post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019, 05:05 PM
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Point is well taken. If it were electrical and something is opening hot, then why if skinny pedal brings rpm up to 750 rpm does the problem go away?
Can't say about that, but I do know that intermittent electrical issues are a PITA to diagnose. Checking continuity while wiggling wire harnesses is essential, but sometimes even that won't work.

Good luck.

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post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019, 06:32 PM
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I don't know if 220 degree oil temp is normal for a BulletProof Diesel oil cooler or not, but if it were normal, I would be very unhappy with it. I have never seen over 210. Granted I only tow around 5000 lbs when I tow, but I see a LOT of hot days in the summer.

What has prevented you from getting a mechanical pressure reading? It should be simple, cheap, and take very little time at all.

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post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Nothing really. What should my reading be cold? Psi I mean if i do a t at sending unit.

I really believe the potential cooling capabilites of the BPD cooler cannot be achieved due to the electric clutch and what determines its operation. I really think a hydraulic clutch is needed. I dont think Ive ever heard my fan kick on to be honest.

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post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019, 08:05 PM
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The minimum engine oil pressure specifications are 82.7 kPa (12 psi) at 700 rpm, 165.5 kPa (24 psi) at 1,200 rpm and 310.3 kPa (45 psi) at 1,800 rpm with the engine at operating temperature. Low or no pressure could be caused by the oil pressure regulator, gerotor oil pump or an internal lube oil pressure leak.

Pressures will be higher when cold.

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