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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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Need some help

I am by no mean an expert however I have learned a ton about 6.0 Powerstrokes and Diesels in general.


I have a 2006 F250 with a 6.0 Powerstroke. I bought it used a few years ago. It ran really good. The only real stress it gets is driving up to the local mountains. I never had any problems until I took it to the dealer. It now overheats and pukes out of the degas.


Of course I know of all of the horror stories however I am a stickler for maintenance. Besides the dealer performed all of the pressure tests.


The dealer did replace the degas bottle. Could it be that simple that the degas bottle is the problem?


My wife has been pressuring me to take it in and get it bulletproofed. I would like to bulletproof it but I dont know where to begin with finding a shop in the Los Angeles area.


I realize this is little information. I can answer further questions if needed.


I appreciate all of the forums help.


Marc
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 03:35 PM
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Did you have them do a coolant flush? Sometimes a flush loosens things that circulate around an clog the oil cooler, so I'm told...
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 05:59 PM
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I'am out in Rancho Cucamonga, and Dealer Alternative here really knows what they are doing, and are reasonably priced for bulletproofing.

So the dealer verified that the EGR cooler and Oil cooler are functioning correctly? Sounds like your close to needing to bulletproof.

2006 F250 cc/sb sct, studs egr delete, 100 shot injectors, fass fuel pump, twins, rough country 4-link 8" Lift, 38"x15.5" Dick Cepeks, 20x12 Rockstars, 4" Dual Exhaust, Ranch hand bumpers Front & Rear

2002 F350 XL RC/LB Pro Comp 6.5" Lift, 37"x13.5" SuperSwamper M16s, Stage II's, GTP38 turbo, DP Tuner, AFE intake, 5" exhaust, JW Slush Box, AIH Delete, CCV Mod, Zoodad mod, 5.6k mod, FPR Shim, ATS Flex Plate, ATS Torque Converter, AirDog FP-150, Fluidampr.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-13-2016, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Not then

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Originally Posted by Nitro6r View Post
Did you have them do a coolant flush? Sometimes a flush loosens things that circulate around an clog the oil cooler, so I'm told...
Thank you for your reply.

I did not have a coolant flush then. I brought it in for an oil change and to fix some leaks. The dealer came up with a list of problems. I took it to another dealer and they came up with a new list of problems...

I just did a coolant flush my self using the instructions on this site.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-13-2016, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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Nothing was wrong

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Originally Posted by blizzardwarrior7 View Post
I'am out in Rancho Cucamonga, and Dealer Alternative here really knows what they are doing, and are reasonably priced for bulletproofing.

So the dealer verified that the EGR cooler and Oil cooler are functioning correctly? Sounds like your close to needing to bulletproof.


Basically they said they couldn't find what was causing it to puke. It passed all of the diagnostics.


I am still thinking it is the degas.


I will check out Dealer Alternative.


Thank you for your reply.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-13-2016, 03:25 PM
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Possibly a defective degas cap.

2006 F250 Lariat Supercrew, ESOF 4x4, 18" tires, FX 4, HD Alt., block heater, Integrated Trailer Brake Controller, Upfitters, power rear window, cab lights - delivered 10/25/05

Ford Remote Start; High idle mod; Timbren load levelers, Scangauge II, Blue Spring upgrade, Quick Start 200 amp large frame alternator, 2 batteries January 2010; GPCM replace October 2011; 2 EGR valves; EGR Cooler replaced 12/30/11; Performance Machine & Mfg. coolant filter added 1/2/12; Rotella T6 5W40 oil; turned rotors, replaced brake pads for 1st time 1/7/12 101K miles; GPCM, both subharnesses and all 8 glowplugs replaced 1/5/13 at 118,000 miles; 2 Ford batteries replaced under battery warranty twice, the latest 9/18/2015; FICM power supply board replaced with Dorman board 11/20/13. Coolant flushed and replaced with Prestone ELC 9/27/14. STC fitting 10/19/14; Dummy Plugs 11/8/14; Turbo rebuilt 11/29/14; cold side CAC tube and boots replaced with metal tube 1/24/15; replaced hot side boots 1/30/16.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-13-2016, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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I have tried changing the cap a few times.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-14-2016, 04:51 PM
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The degas bottle is just a pressurized plastic jug with room for air to rise out of the coolant. If it's puking then it's holding pressure at the bottle and if you've replaced the cap a few times that shouldn't be the issue. It is impossible for this to be happening and your truck pass all the diagnostics. Either the oil is boiling the coolant because it is way above acceptable temps, the coolant is blocked somewhere and therefore overheating due to inability to flow to the radiator, the headgaskets are leaking pressure into the coolant passages, or something. I'm not against the bulletproofing idea, especially since you were leaning that way to begin with and the process basically replaces all potential points of failure. I absolutely advise you to not let the shop that told you it all checked out do the work. That problem should not remain a mystery after a trip to a proficient diesel mechanic.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-14-2016, 07:00 PM
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Exactly, after all if everything was in fact working the way it should you wouldn't be having this issue. You've got an issue, probably one that would be solved by bulletproofing.

2006 F250 cc/sb sct, studs egr delete, 100 shot injectors, fass fuel pump, twins, rough country 4-link 8" Lift, 38"x15.5" Dick Cepeks, 20x12 Rockstars, 4" Dual Exhaust, Ranch hand bumpers Front & Rear

2002 F350 XL RC/LB Pro Comp 6.5" Lift, 37"x13.5" SuperSwamper M16s, Stage II's, GTP38 turbo, DP Tuner, AFE intake, 5" exhaust, JW Slush Box, AIH Delete, CCV Mod, Zoodad mod, 5.6k mod, FPR Shim, ATS Flex Plate, ATS Torque Converter, AirDog FP-150, Fluidampr.

2006 Ram 2500 QC/SB Smarty, 5" straight pipe, edge, Leveling kit, 35x13.5" mickey ATZs

2006 International CXT DT466 300 hp 860 tq Diablo powerpuck, 6" straight pipe into 7" single stack


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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Yes they did

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitro6r View Post
Did you have them do a coolant flush? Sometimes a flush loosens things that circulate around an clog the oil cooler, so I'm told...


When I took it to the dealer in 2014, just before all of the puking out of the cap, the dealer did a coolant flush.


I recently performed a coolant flush (May 2016) with restore and restore + per the instructions on this forum...
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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I absolutely advise you to not let the shop that told you it all checked out do the work. That problem should not remain a mystery after a trip to a proficient diesel mechanic.


Agreed! I stopped taking to them after this. I went to two different dealers and they gave different problems.


I am searching for a good mechanic in my area...
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-22-2016, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
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When I took it to the dealer in 2014, just before all of the puking out of the cap, the dealer did a coolant flush.


I recently performed a coolant flush (May 2016) with restore and restore + per the instructions on this forum...
It sure sounds like a blocked oil cooler to me if the puking started right after a coolant flush.

Has the truck been road tested with a scan tool connected to verify what the delta & temps are on the oil and coolant?

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-23-2016, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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I guess I need to do the scan tool thing...
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