No start when hot - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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No start when hot

I have a 2005 f350 Harley davidson edition with 207k miles that has developed a no start when hot condition once I replaced my tranny. I've read through all of the forums here and tried all the obvious stuff (STC, Dummy Plugs, Stand Pipe) and I blew air through the system and it doesn't leak anymore. But, what I dont understand is that I have to crank for 5-10 seconds when cold to get enough low oil pressure to fill the reservoir for the HPOP. I checked to see if the anti-drain valve was not working, and it was okay. Any thoughts??
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 10:10 AM
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Filling the oil filter housing (and cranking) should take only 3-4 seconds with the filter housing drain valve closed. 8-10 seconds without closing it. Crank w/ key off and use the starter solenoid wire "jumped" to the passenger battery.

Is yours slower than that?

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Mine is actually spot on with those numbers. I jumped it exactly as you told me before getting on here looking for the flow and it took roughly 8-10 secs without it being closed. My father is a diesel mechanic for 30+ years on cat, international, peterbuilt, etc.. and he is stumped as well. Only thing he can think of is the reservoir is somehow draining all of the fluid so the system is emptying itself out, therefore making the extended crank. Once it starts up, it runs like a dream. I'm sort of lost on this one.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 12:00 PM
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I guess you could always put a pressure gauge on the test port to get a low oil pressure number. The dash gauge is only to tell you if you have at least 7 psig pressure (way below where it should be).

That said, it still sounds like an issue /w the high pressure oil side. Have you pulled, inspected, and tested the IPR valve?

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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I put the pressure tester on there yesterday and it wouldn't read anything for about 5 seconds of cranking and then it would build to 20psi, then it would fire right up and jump to where it should be. I checked the IPR valve and replaced it with a new one so there is no doubt that it could be the problem. The ICP sensor has also been replaced. But, once I turn the truck off, the pressure on the gauge drops to zero in a couple seconds. I will get you exact readings tonight.

Last edited by JeremyMullins6.0; 07-23-2019 at 12:22 PM.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Was not able to get readings cause something else broke of course... Was driving down I-95 on my way home from work and out of nowhere my touchscreen headunit decided to turn on and off repeatedly which was really odd... I just turned it off manually and kept driving. Then about 5 mins away, everything turned off. So my alternator decided to die on me. If it's not one thing, it's another...
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 11:30 PM
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You should develop 45-55 psi of low pressure oil. A couple things would be are you sure your spring loaded filter housing drain back plug is in good shape? Are you using a Motorcraft oil filter with a stock cap? If one or the other is not you may be having oil bypass the filter and drain back immediately when you shut down. If you are getting drain back it could delay the engine start.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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At first, I was using a NAPA cap and an Autozone filter because I did not know the difference but I'm good friends with Marty's Diesel and he told me that you cannot mix the two because of the height difference. The spring loaded drain back plug is in good shape. I held it down with an extension and cranked it over to make sure it could hold oil and it did fine. I was able to hook up my gauge this morning and I did get exactly 55 psig of low pressure oil.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 07:45 AM
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You would do well to get an OEM cap and stick w/ OEM filters.

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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I am using both OEM cap and filter currently. Just because I didn't wanna take the chance of that being the problem.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 09:03 AM
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Just so I'm clear, could you restate your issue??

Do you have a confirmed NO START HOT and a long crank when cold or is the problem intermittent and variable?
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 09:36 AM
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You may very well have been starving the HPOP and done some damage to it when you ran the wrong filter/cap combo (as long as you are sure the IPR isn't the issue).

Mark
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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The problem happens every single time i turn the truck off when it is HOT. If i try to start the truck right after I turn it off, it will not fire back up. But, if i let it sit and cool down, it takes me 5-10 seconds to build the oil pressure back up to start it again. It's almost as if when i shut it off hot, the oil become less viscous and the LPOP cant keep up enough. Maybe I should just change the oil and filter again and see if it makes a difference.

My problem is NO START HOT. I also have a long crank when cold, which is because I have no oil pressure until 5 seconds into cranking, which i tested.

There's no way the LPOP is bad though, because if it was, I wouldn't be able to start the truck at all. Also, why would the HPOP be fine when it's cold, but not when hot?
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 02:18 PM
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The oil is thicker when cold ....

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah... I was saying that when the oil gets hot and less viscous, the pump isn't able to build pressure before it all drains back out. When its cold, its more viscous causing it to drain slower and letting the reservoir fill up, so it can satisfy the threshold needed for the HPOP. Do you think it could be an electrical issue?
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