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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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post #46 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 07:53 AM
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Lastly - remember that when you have been doing air tests, it may run rough and the numbers may be "a little off" until you run the truck long enough (and hard enough) to push all of the air out.
What ^^^^^ he ^^^^^ said.

When I did mine I buggered around for weeks before finally believing the man. At that point I buttoned everything up and went for a drive. As long as I let it sit in the shop I was getting 15 second crank times every time but a road trip with a few WOT runs brought the crank times back to normal.

BTW, it sounds to me like you still have a leak. You can confirm that by putting shop air to it with a gauge and then shutting off the air supply. If it holds pressure its not leaking. If the gauge goes down you've got more work to do.

2006 F250 6.0 4x4
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post #47 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bismic View Post
Been trying to communicate that to you!

The typical time to fill the oil filter housing when cranking is:
10-13 seconds without the drain valve depressed
3-4 seconds with the drain valve depressed

Lastly - remember that when you have been doing air tests, it may run rough and the numbers may be "a little off" until you run the truck long enough (and hard enough) to push all of the air out.
Sorry I've been so thick headed. LOL

So I've replaced the following:
- Ball Tube Replace with New O-Rings
- All 3 seals and copper compression ring on all Injectors on Passenger Side
- All 4 injectors on the Driver Side (2, 4, 6, 8)
- Stand Pipe (but went back to original as the sinister diesel Stand Pipe didn't fit correctly)
- Dummy Plug (but went back to original as the sinister diesel Stand Pipe didn't fit correctly)

After all those replacements, I still have a leak... and it "Seems" to be around the #3 injector... What else is there? Maybe I should move the injectors around and see if it follows the injector. Then possible replace that injector if it is bad. I wonder if there is a way to test the injector, itself, by pulling it out and putting air directly in the top seal area. I think they have rubberized air attachment that might fit in that location. Other than that, I'm at a loss at what could be the problem.

Again, any suggestions of where to go next?


I will say, I purchased a used oil rail as the original had the ICP break off at the Rail and instead of trying to drill out the ICP I just bought a used one... I guess the rail itself could be cracked but its nothing I can see with the naked eye.

2005 F350 SRW 4x4
  • Sinister Diesel EGR Delete
  • SCT Tuner
  • ARP Studs
  • Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter Kit
  • Updated Oil Cooler
  • Garrett Powermax Turbo
  • BD Diesel Up-Pipes
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post #48 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bobofthenorth View Post
What ^^^^^ he ^^^^^ said.

When I did mine I buggered around for weeks before finally believing the man. At that point I buttoned everything up and went for a drive. As long as I let it sit in the shop I was getting 15 second crank times every time but a road trip with a few WOT runs brought the crank times back to normal.

BTW, it sounds to me like you still have a leak. You can confirm that by putting shop air to it with a gauge and then shutting off the air supply. If it holds pressure its not leaking. If the gauge goes down you've got more work to do.
I can certainly do the gauge with the air line and shut off valve but I can "hear" an air leak under the rail around injector #3 (2nd from the front on passenger side). I pinpointed it in that area by using a length of tubing which I put one end in my ear and the other under the rail at different locations until I believe I pinpointed it to the #3 injector area. I can't imagine the air will stay in if I can hear the leak... right?

One other question/comment: When I run the engine for a minute or two, then shut the engine off, and then start it again after about 30 seconds, it starts in about 5 to 10 seconds. If I wait 5 to 10 minutes to start again, it will take 30 seconds while the pressure builds up. I'm assuming yours did not have that difference in starting times???

I appreciate the advice. You all have been giving me things to try and look at.

2005 F350 SRW 4x4
  • Sinister Diesel EGR Delete
  • SCT Tuner
  • ARP Studs
  • Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter Kit
  • Updated Oil Cooler
  • Garrett Powermax Turbo
  • BD Diesel Up-Pipes

Last edited by bgiebels; 04-17-2019 at 12:43 PM.
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post #49 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 02:41 PM
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One other question/comment: When I run the engine for a minute or two, then shut the engine off, and then start it again after about 30 seconds, it starts in about 5 to 10 seconds. If I wait 5 to 10 minutes to start again, it will take 30 seconds while the pressure builds up. I'm assuming yours did not have that difference in starting times??.
My crank time was longer if it sat overnight but I don't remember the exact number.

I agree with you that it sounds like you still have a leak somewhere. I got to a point where I couldn't hear a leak but I stubbornly refused to finish closing the engine up and driving it because I didn't believe that there could really be that much air left in the rails. Evidently there was.
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post #50 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 09:16 AM
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It could be the nipple cup seals on the oil rail. They should not be floppy. They don't normally go bad, but I understand that leaky injector orings can cause the high pressure oil to eat into the nipple cuo seals.

2006 F250 Lariat Supercrew, ESOF 4x4, 18" tires, FX 4, HD Alt., block heater, Integrated Trailer Brake Controller, Upfitters, power rear window, cab lights - delivered 10/25/05

Ford Remote Start; High idle mod; Timbren load levelers, Scangauge II, Blue Spring upgrade, Quick Start 200 amp large frame alternator, 2 batteries January 2010; GPCM replace October 2011; 2 EGR valves; EGR Cooler replaced 12/30/11; Performance Machine & Mfg. coolant filter added 1/2/12; Rotella T6 5W40 oil; turned rotors, replaced brake pads for 1st time 1/7/12 101K miles; GPCM, both subharnesses and all 8 glowplugs replaced 1/5/13 at 118,000 miles; 2 Ford batteries replaced under battery warranty twice, the latest 9/18/2015; FICM power supply board replaced with Dorman board 11/20/13. Coolant flushed and replaced with Prestone ELC 9/27/14. STC fitting 10/19/14; Dummy Plugs 11/8/14; Turbo rebuilt 11/29/14; cold side CAC tube and boots replaced with metal tube 1/24/15; replaced hot side boots 1/30/16.
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post #51 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 10:36 AM
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I think pulling injector #3 and re-oringing it would be an acceptable approach, depending on how many miles was on it.

Also, replacing one injector out of the bank doesn't have any down sides, if you wanted to go that direction.

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
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post #52 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ford06 View Post
It could be the nipple cup seals on the oil rail. They should not be floppy. They don't normally go bad, but I understand that leaky injector orings can cause the high pressure oil to eat into the nipple cuo seals.
Yep, I have already replaced those (Ball Tube & Orings). Thanks though,

2005 F350 SRW 4x4
  • Sinister Diesel EGR Delete
  • SCT Tuner
  • ARP Studs
  • Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter Kit
  • Updated Oil Cooler
  • Garrett Powermax Turbo
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post #53 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bismic View Post
I think pulling injector #3 and re-oringing it would be an acceptable approach, depending on how many miles was on it.

Also, replacing one injector out of the bank doesn't have any down sides, if you wanted to go that direction.
I've already put new orings on all of the (1, 3, 5, 7) injectors. The injectors on the other side are all new.

Are you saying to "re"-re-oring the injector?

I think I'm going to move the injectors around to see if the noise follows the injector. That will give me a good idea if the problem is the injector or the rail (i.e. Ball tube & Seal). Since I have the injector out, I can put another new seal on it.

thanks,

2005 F350 SRW 4x4
  • Sinister Diesel EGR Delete
  • SCT Tuner
  • ARP Studs
  • Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter Kit
  • Updated Oil Cooler
  • Garrett Powermax Turbo
  • BD Diesel Up-Pipes
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post #54 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 02:51 PM
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Yup, I was saying re-re, lol. It is easy to nick one of those o-rings. The oil rail needs to be lowered on as straight and as evenly as possible. Oil up the injector tops!! Not quite getting a good seal on the ball tube seal is a possibility also. Good idea to check. A lot of techs actually don't recommend messing with those unless they are pretty loose.
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Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
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post #55 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bismic View Post
Yup, I was saying re-re, lol. It is easy to nick one of those o-rings. The oil rail needs to be lowered on as straight and as evenly as possible. Oil up the injector tops!! Not quite getting a good seal on the ball tube seal is a possibility also. Good idea to check. A lot of techs actually don't recommend messing with those unless they are pretty loose.
I have the parts to "re-re" seal the injector, it certainly isn't going to hurt anything. I'll do a better job of lubing the ball tubes up when installing the rail. I did notice that the rail wasn't exactly seating evenly so I also want to check to ensure there is nothing in the way, like an injector wire as well.

We'll give that a try and see what happens... That passenger side is a little harder to get the torque wrench into the back lower bolts but that shouldn't have the affect of a leaking #3 injector... but who knows...

Thanks Bismic,

2005 F350 SRW 4x4
  • Sinister Diesel EGR Delete
  • SCT Tuner
  • ARP Studs
  • Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter Kit
  • Updated Oil Cooler
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post #56 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Well everyone, I welded a bolt to the remains of the ICP, on my old rail, and got it out. I then replaced the "new-used" rail with the original one (didn't mess with the ball tubes) and after priming the HPO system the truck started in about 6 seconds. I shut it off and waited 20 seconds and the truck started in about 6 seconds...

I figured that was better than what I had been seeing so I put it all back together. Took it out for a run and found that the Boost Reading was low but the truck had boost. I looked at it again and saw that I busted off the nipple on the Absolute Pressure Sensor... So I'm blaming that for right now.... I"ve got another on order.

I took it out again and drove for about 15 minutes and put the peddle to the floor a few times (it definitely has boost). Got it back and let it sit for 7-8 hours... started right up.

Either the "new-used" rail had something wrong with it, I messed up when I replaced the ball tube seals, or I simply got lucky on putting the old rail back in and it sealed correctly... but it is now up and running.

Thanks to everyone for the help on this!
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2005 F350 SRW 4x4
  • Sinister Diesel EGR Delete
  • SCT Tuner
  • ARP Studs
  • Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter Kit
  • Updated Oil Cooler
  • Garrett Powermax Turbo
  • BD Diesel Up-Pipes
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