Orange/Red spillage from degas. - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Orange/Red spillage from degas.

Hey guys so I am new to diesels and recently purchased a 2004 lariat 6.0L
I looked online and didnt find this issue, so i am sorry if this is a repeat.
When i purchased it I did the temp test between the engine coolant and the oil. It never got greater than 5 degrees. Temps reached to about 180-185F.
I opened the oil cap and there was no blow back.
At the time there was no residue on the degas cap.
So I thought the truck was in decent conditions. besides the Ac not working.
I drove the truck for not even half a tank of gas and then i went to do my weekly fluid check that i usually do to my car and now truck as well. When i opened the hood there was a red/orange overflow around the degas bottle and inside it was like a dried up powder.
I was freaking out that the head gasket might be bad.
I was told it could be the degas cap.
I recently got a scangauge 2 that i will be running the temps to make sure they do not vary more than 15 degrees.
Should I just get some motorcraft coolant fill it back up (since its empty) and replace the cap?
Should I be afraid to drive it 500 miles on a road trip unloaded?
Has anyone run into this issue or know what it can be?
Any help or direction would be appreciated.
I uploaded pictures to show the problem.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 10:35 PM
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I do not have knowledge of the 6.0 but a chalky, red substance does not sound like oil residue.

What color is the original coolant? This info will help determine which coolant you want to add.

Did you say your degas bottle went from full to empty in less than one tank of fuel?

Never hurts to buy a $12 Motorcraft degas cap from Amazon.

Much respect for your weekly underhood inspections.


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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 05:18 AM Thread Starter
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The original coolant was gold in color. They said it was the motorcraft gold coolant. I read that it could be rust and to do a coolant flush. Yes sorry less than half a tank of fuel I can no longer see any liquid in the degas reservoir.
I am going to buy a cap and see if i flush it with some distilled water a couple of times then refill it and see if that fixes the issue?
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 06:28 AM
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As stated on FTE - If you go back in w/ Gold, and you actually do have a head gasket leak or an EGR cooler leak, then you are risking plugging up and/or rupturing the oil cooler. Ford Fold coolant will gel when exposed t combustion gasses (low pH gas).

First task would be to see how much fluid was lost since the degas tank is empty. Add water until you get the degas bottle filled to the minimum level again. Post up how many gallons that was. Your entire system holds 7 gallons of coolant.

Once you determine how much of the 7 gallons were lost, Then you can do a quick leak test to see if you have a degas bottle crack or if a hose or the water pump is leaking. Also verify that the sealing surface for the degas bottle cap is flat w/ no nicks/burrs. Sand it flat and smooth if it isn't already. Now is the time to add a pressure gauge in the system (also as mentioned on the FTE post). You can pressurize the system to 15 psig and then watch for leaks and also see if the pressure holds or drops.

After that, it is HIGHLY recommended to do all the flushing now and then switch coolants.

What you need to know is that a degas tank operation is NOT the same as an overflow tank.

With a system that uses a radiator cap and an overflow tank, you can lose ALL of the fluid from the overflow tank and still be ok. The radiator cap (if still good) will still maintain a pressurized system.

When the degas bottle is empty, you have depleted a significant portion of the volume that actually circulates AND you have lost any pressure benefit for boil over protection.

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs

Last edited by bismic; 08-01-2018 at 06:33 AM.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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I appreciate all the help! @bismic it took a little less than a gallon. I replaced the cap with a new one that i got from autozone
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Also @bismic i bought a scangauge 2 to measure temps and when i entered the codes for the EOT the name just appeared there but didnt provide any info. Have you ran into this problem? sorry for annoying you.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 05:47 PM
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That is good - a gallon isn't a crazy amount anyway. You might want to drain some coolant from the radiator drain valve and examine it (color, sludge, etc).

I have not experienced the issue w/ the EOT on the scangauge, sorry.

Do you have the programming for it?

Mark
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boomer Pledge View Post
Also @bismic i bought a scangauge 2 to measure temps and when i entered the codes for the EOT the name just appeared there but didnt provide any info. Have you ran into this problem? sorry for annoying you.
You must have miss-entered the numbers/codes for the EOT data in ScanGuage. I've got two 6.0's and run ScanGuages in both of them and don't have issues with the EOT value. The MAT value reads as -40 for some reason but that has been the case since the beginning so I don't think it's a legit concern.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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@bismic I drained a little and this is what i got. It doesnt look that bad?
So i am hoping it is just the cap?


Thank you @dillon134 ill go recheck them but i thought i double checked it.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 06:48 PM
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For Ford Gold coolant it doesn't really look all that bad. Is it thick or does it contain solids?

Mark
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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No not really. its just diluted now since i added a gallon of distilled water and not a 50/50 mix.
So should I flush it anyway and fill it up with a better coolant? which would you suggest @bismic?
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 08:52 PM
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I would still highly recommend to flush it. I would probably only use the Restore (not the restore plus).

Use an EC-1 rated ELC coolant (you will need 4 gallons of the concentrate)

Probably the best is the Cat ELC coolant if you have a Caterpillar store near by.

You can also get some EC-1 rated ELC coolant at an International dealership (Fleetrite ELC) if there is one close to you.

Mobil Delvac ELC is an EC-1 rated also.

I even think that Peak Final Charge is one, but you would have to verify that.
Same with Shell ROTELLA® ELC AFC.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...c-coolant.html

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs

Last edited by bismic; 08-02-2018 at 09:00 PM.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 08:56 PM
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Again, you will want the concentrate, because doing the 3 or so final flushes with distilled water will leave about 2-2.5 gallons of distilled water in the block (maybe even a little more). The way to get to a 50/50 concentration is to add 3.5 gallons of concentrate and then top-off with more distilled water - whatever it will take to get to the desired level).

After driving it, the level will settle a little and after a while and you will need to add a little more water. That is because of air left in the system. Sometimes I will even "burp the system" (remove the degas carefully and with a thick towel when the system is hot).

The target fill is at the "MINIMUM" line of the degas bottle. You really do not want to run it any higher than that.

Also, if you have access to a vacuum fill apparatus, it is best to use that! Then no need to burp it to get the air out.

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs

Last edited by bismic; 08-02-2018 at 09:03 PM.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 10:04 PM
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And its no problem if you are strong on coolant 5%.

Just not strong on water.


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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-08-2018, 04:19 AM Thread Starter
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@bismic, thank you for the info. I havent really been able to work on the truck since work has been really busy.

I did want to add some additional details tho. Before noticing the coolant was low the truck was stuck in park when I would start the car up. I would have to bypass and turn the key to the on postion(before the engine started) and put it in neutral and then start it. Could that have been because the coolant was low? I remember when I filled it up with the gallon of distilled water it did not make me do the whole bypass procedure. There is still no check engine light or any codes pulled when i scan it.
Also I noticed that a light white smoke/water vapor came out of the exhaust. I read that could one of two things. Either unburnt fuel or water coming from the coolant.... Could it be anything else?
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