Orange/Red spillage from degas. - Page 3 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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post #31 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 11:08 AM
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That being said, I had no problem when flushing mine and running it 25 miles each way to work. I don't know what you have going on there. Did you run it with the garden hose in the degas bottle with the lower radiator hose off to start the flushing? I ran mine for a good 30 minutes or more that way before closing it up and going to the distilled water. I have 220,000 miles on my original waterpump.

2006 F250 Lariat Supercrew, ESOF 4x4, 18" tires, FX 4, HD Alt., block heater, Integrated Trailer Brake Controller, Upfitters, power rear window, cab lights - delivered 10/25/05

Ford Remote Start; High idle mod; Timbren load levelers, Scangauge II, Blue Spring upgrade, Quick Start 200 amp large frame alternator, 2 batteries January 2010; GPCM replace October 2011; 2 EGR valves; EGR Cooler replaced 12/30/11; Performance Machine & Mfg. coolant filter added 1/2/12; Rotella T6 5W40 oil; turned rotors, replaced brake pads for 1st time 1/7/12 101K miles; GPCM, both subharnesses and all 8 glowplugs replaced 1/5/13 at 118,000 miles; 2 Ford batteries replaced under battery warranty twice, the latest 9/18/2015; FICM power supply board replaced with Dorman board 11/20/13. Coolant flushed and replaced with Prestone ELC 9/27/14. STC fitting 10/19/14; Dummy Plugs 11/8/14; Turbo rebuilt 11/29/14; cold side CAC tube and boots replaced with metal tube 1/24/15; replaced hot side boots 1/30/16.
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post #32 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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@Ford06 thats what i did this weekend. I ran the hose thru it for about 10 mins till it was clear. then i drove it and when i flushed it again it was red again. Im going to do that again and again till it stops getting red and i can fill it with distilled water and put the cat rated coolant in it. Also i let a bottle settle over night and this is what it looks like. Someone mentioned if it settles then its oil in it....?
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post #33 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 08:51 PM
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Are you flushing it with the t-stat removed and the heater ON?

If you are just flushing it with a garden hose then I wonder if the temp is getting high enough to open the t-stat?


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post #34 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 09:37 PM
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Oil and diesel will both float on the top

On the bottom will be rust and scale

Mark
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post #35 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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I do not get this truck. sometimes the deltas are within 5 degrees of each other and sometimes they are a constant 12. It depends the day and time for this truck. I changed the oil to rotella t6 with new oil filter. i drive it around and the temps were with in 3 delta of each other till about 160. then the coolant stayed around 164-168 while the oil climbed to 180. the oil didnt really go above that and i was driving on the highway at about 60-70. The delta did go to 16 degrees for a breif min. but then it went back to within tolerance. To close for my comfort. but is that okay?
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post #36 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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i dont get this truck. it depends the day i drive it if the deltas decide to be good and stay within 5 degrees of each other or not. yesterday i changed the oil to rotella t6 and changed the oil filter. today i test drive it and the deltas were within 3 degrees of each other until about 160 degrees where the coolant just hovered from 16-168 and the oil climbed to 180. today it decided to be a constant 11-14 difference with it hitting a difference of 16 for a brief min. With synthetic oil should the operating oil temp be lower? It really didnt go about 180 and i was driving on the highway at 60-70 mph. Also is the 16 degree delta detrimental or is it okay if it did that for a minuet?
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post #37 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 10:16 PM
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For what it's worth, I just installed a new OEM Oil Cooler and BulletProof EGR Cooler and my deltas are usually 5-10 degrees. I run Zerex HD Coolant (Red).

I think people stress too much about the EOT / ECT deltas. If it is about 16 degrees and stays there, then you might have issues.
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post #38 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dillon134 View Post

I think people stress too much about the EOT / ECT deltas. If it is about 16 degrees and stays there, then you might have issues.
+1

Also, don’t the Deltas only matter when the truck reaches operating temperature?

ECT of 160* ? Is that normal temp for a 6.0 ?


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post #39 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-30-2018, 07:32 AM
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Certainly the 15 degrees is only a "guideline".

Remember Navistar and Ford first came out w/ a 25 degree limit. Later dropped down to 15 degrees.

Originally, it was to prevent EGR cooler failures due to the restricted oil cooler preventing coolant flow through the EGR cooler. Then they started seeing more and more oil cooler failures. Then we started seeing some examples of melted oil filter standpipes from extra hot oil!

IMO the OEM oil coolers are a GREAT design, but if the temperature differentials get too high it causes mechanical stress on the heat exchanger. The result of this stress is a failure. I believe that the 15 degree limit is possibly conservative, but this is an area that warrants the conservative approach.

The other thing to watch is the actual oil temp. Remember that the oil temp is really the coolest temp for the oil in the engine. The oil in the pan is often times as much as 50 degrees hotter. Oil in some engine locations could be even higher. Ford's oil temp (EOT) limit (when the PCM begins to "de-fuel") is 253*F. IMO this isn't conservative enough. I would put it closer to 235 *F personally. The hotter things are, the less operating life they will have.

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post #40 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-30-2018, 08:03 AM
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Bismic,

I learn alot every time you post.

I should have been more specific. I think the 15* Delta has been shown a good rule to follow but I wonder if there are not parameters when the temperatures should be compared.

For example, an engine still warming up could see big deltas and so could an engine in traffic or topping a pass, etc..

Isn’t there some standard that the truck should be cruising on fairly consistent terrain with a steady load on the engine, etc?

Thanks


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post #41 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-30-2018, 10:12 AM
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Most of the time the reading is done while at a constant in the highway. Takes some of the variable out.

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post #42 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-30-2018, 01:10 PM
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Fords procedure states a "careful acceleration to WOT" or something like that. Many people got frustrated with the vagueness of it, so an internet standard was sort of adopted. The standard is now a steady 55-65 mph on level ground. Of course it requires the engine to be fully warmed up.

That said, if an oil cooler is 100% healthy, you shouldn't exceed the 15 degree differential even when towing. Some people worry about a 20 degree differential when towing heavy on a 100*F day. I wouldn't be too concerned with that, but 20*F would be my upper limit when towing heavy (as long as you were below the 15*F under normal driving).

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post #43 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 06:50 AM Thread Starter
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Spoke to a friend and he said once the radiator gets rusts there's no taking it out. So just to use it till it breaks and then replace it. What would be the negative effects if I used just distilled water and wetter in the degas redivior until I have to replace the radiator then I replace it with the cat elc1? I plan on doing it in the next two weeks. And not putting more than 500 miles on the truck. Also I noticed while I stay still the eot and ect get close like 3 degrees apart to each other (178 coolant 181 oil) the coolant gets hotter and the oil gets cooler while I'm driving they're a constant 10-13 difference the coolant gets cooler while driving and the oil gets hotter(172 coolant 185 oil).... is that normal?
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post #44 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 09:01 AM
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There are a number of chemical flushes that remove rust.

Products like water wetter work by a different chemical process than glycol coolants.

It will require a very thorough flush when you go back to a proper coolant.

Plus I don’t think Water Wetter is even diesel rated or has sufficient SCA levels and would risk issues of cavitation. Hopefully someone can provide some facts.

I would add around 40% ELC coolant for the week it takes you to get a new radiator. Just one of the cheaper products.

There are some real junk aftermarket radiators. I would choose to keep my Ford factory radiator and have it cleaned at a radiator shop rather than buy a cheap aftermarket.


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post #45 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 04:04 PM
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Isn’t your Ford radiator aluminum and does not rust?


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