Sub Zero loss of power - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
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Sub Zero loss of power

It has been below zero, in Iowa, a few times in the last few weeks and I have experienced a situation where the truck starts to lose power.

The first time I drove about 35 miles and the tank was only about an 1/8 of a tank. I hadn't put any fuel treatment in so I figured it was gelled fuel. The truck started acting like one, or more cylinders where not getting any fuel. I pulled over to the side of the road and called AAA to tow the vehicle to the local Ford dealership. At my request they changed the fuel filters out and I was on my way the next day when it had warmed to about 10 degrees. When I picked up the vehicle I also brought some fuel mixed with fuel treatment and then travelled about a mile to fill the rest of the tank up and mixed more fuel treatment in for a proper treatment.

Everything was good until yesterday when it, again, was lower than -10 degrees. My wife and I drove a few blocks to the local establishment, for a few libations as we were watching the Rose Bowl. Again, I felt a loss of power, but it did not act like any of the cylinders were starving for fuel. I decided to let it run a little longer (about an hour) and warm up. After an hour I left the bar to test drive the truck and it still had the loss of power.

I'm trying to figure out what would be the most likely cause of the loss of power.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

2005 F350 SRW 4x4
  • Sinister Diesel EGR Delete
  • SCT Tuner
  • ARP Studs
  • Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter Kit
  • Updated Oil Cooler
  • Garrett Powermax Turbo
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 04:43 AM
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It hasn't been that cold here, been in the low 20s during the day, dropping to single digits at night, but I had the same problem yesterday. Fuel gauge showed about 1/8 tank, so I thought maybe the gauge wasn't reading right (I've had issues in the past with it, but its seemed to read properly ever since I got my gauge cluster rebuilt a couple years back). I limped to a filling station and topped it off, adding only about 25 gallons, so the gauge was reading right. The fuel did seem to make a difference though, but didn't completely fix the issue. I had open road, so I put the hammer down for a few seconds. After that it ran about 95% better for the rest of the trip, and after a shut down and restart ran fine the rest of the day. Not sure what caused it either. Its no stranger to cold weather, and its been colder than its been this past week before with no running issues. I don't know if my turbo got stuck and then unstuck (its due for a cleaning, but going to have to wait for warmer weather). Possibly there was some fuel issue that resolved once I got the engine hot enough. Not sure. I guess I'll see if it was an anomaly or not as its not supposed to warm up here anytime soon.

'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, RCD 175/30 injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Adding to the original description:

I started it up today with little issue. I let it warm up for about 30 minutes and set off for a small 15 mile trip to Theisens. I got about 2 blocks down the road and the truck started losing power so I pulled into the Casey's and it quit on my as I was pulling into the parking lot.

I let it sit for about 15 minutes and it started up again. I got it home and let it sit.

It warmed up to about 5 degrees above zero, so I started it and tried again. I got a little further and it started losing power again. I brought it back to the house.

I ordered a block heater cord, which will show up Friday, to see if that helps but I can't see how it would. I would figure if the oil was too cold to build up pressure it would happen sooner rather than later and would only improve as the engine heated up, not get worse (higher RPM should mean higher engine temp and therefore higher oil temp).

Anyways... any ideas?

Fuel Pressure Static and dynamic? I have ordered a fuel pressure gauge so I can monitor both... we'll see. Is there anything else that might exhibit itself in the way I described....?

I don't have any codes that are thrown either....

Thanks,

2005 F350 SRW 4x4
  • Sinister Diesel EGR Delete
  • SCT Tuner
  • ARP Studs
  • Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter Kit
  • Updated Oil Cooler
  • Garrett Powermax Turbo
  • BD Diesel Up-Pipes
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgiebels View Post
Adding to the original description:

I started it up today with little issue. I let it warm up for about 30 minutes and set off for a small 15 mile trip to Theisens. I got about 2 blocks down the road and the truck started losing power so I pulled into the Casey's and it quit on my as I was pulling into the parking lot.

I let it sit for about 15 minutes and it started up again. I got it home and let it sit.

It warmed up to about 5 degrees above zero, so I started it and tried again. I got a little further and it started losing power again. I brought it back to the house.

I ordered a block heater cord, which will show up Friday, to see if that helps but I can't see how it would. I would figure if the oil was too cold to build up pressure it would happen sooner rather than later and would only improve as the engine heated up, not get worse (higher RPM should mean higher engine temp and therefore higher oil temp).

Anyways... any ideas?

Fuel Pressure Static and dynamic? I have ordered a fuel pressure gauge so I can monitor both... we'll see. Is there anything else that might exhibit itself in the way I described....?

I don't have any codes that are thrown either....

Thanks,
Do you know what your EOT was at the times you had problems and during these periods of warming up?

Also, what viscosity oil are you running and when was your last oil change?

Do you have any type of blanket or windblock on the front of the grill to cut down on cold air passing through the engine compartment?

Thanks


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NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

Last edited by ArcticDriver; 01-02-2018 at 10:03 PM.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 04:37 AM
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In addition to ArticDriver's questions/suggestions ....

Do you have something to read engine parameters with?

What are you using as a code reader?

Fuel pressure is a good place to start. but it could also be something in the HPO system or an injector issue. Could even be a FICM issue.

We would need to see data on:
ICP psi
ICP volts
IPR %duty cycle
FICM MPower
FICM LPower
FICM VPower

It would also be good to look at EBP, MAP, and Baro at KOEO - to make sure the EBP and MAP are reading correctly.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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@articDriver @bismic,

Thanks for the replies!

I do not have a readings for those items you are asking about but will look into getting those at some point. Is there a 3rd party scan tool that I can purchase for that purpose?


I am using 5w/30 Rotella and have about 3k on the oil at this time.

It was 10 degrees above zero for most of the night, here in Iowa, and I went out this morning and it started up within a 3 or 4 seconds of cranking and I test drove it for about 12 miles and it ran great...

Unfortunately, it will be below zero for the next several days...

I do have a SCT Tuner but I don't think those readings are available... The AutoEnginuity bundle is $360.00
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2005 F350 SRW 4x4
  • Sinister Diesel EGR Delete
  • SCT Tuner
  • ARP Studs
  • Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter Kit
  • Updated Oil Cooler
  • Garrett Powermax Turbo
  • BD Diesel Up-Pipes

Last edited by bgiebels; 01-03-2018 at 09:55 AM.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 10:27 AM
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5w30 rules out some possible oil-related issues.

It sure sounds temperature related.

You say it started a few weeks ago. Can your recall if the problems always coincided with the coldest temps during that time?

Have you drained your fuel/water separator bowl recently? It would have been drained when Ford replaced with new filters but have you drained it since then? I am curious if you might find some water present. If nothing else, even the absence of water helps us narrow it down.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 11:29 AM
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I believe I'm having the same issues with 2007 f350 6.0. I tried to get some of the reading asked for earlier but I'm not a mechanic and I'm not sure what some of the abbreviations mean like EBP, EOT and so on.

But I got a few others with my Innova 3040 code scanner (these are the reading it gave me)

Koeo
Map 29.9
Baro 29.9
Ect 104.0
Iat 64.4

Now I've replaced my fuel filters and drained the water seperator and in recent months replaced the number 8 injector, brand new turbo, and brand new alternator and I'm comp!etely lost as to where to go next. I can hear the fuel pump, I know the ficm is aftermarket but not sure how old, someone please help I need to get back to work!
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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I haven't drained it in the past week. Ford replaced the filters on Thursday 12/28/2017, just a few days ago really. I drained it when I did the last oil change a few months ago.... not much to speak of.

Once I get the Fuel Pressure Gauge installed I'll be able to see that. I also want to test the FICM voltage the next time the weather permits me to work on it (outside). It just has to be above 15 degrees and lower wind...

What would the symptoms of a bad LPOP be? I'm thinking if it couldn't keep up, with the cold oil, it would be starving the HPOP... then again, maybe the temperature is affecting the HPOP... just don't know...

2005 F350 SRW 4x4
  • Sinister Diesel EGR Delete
  • SCT Tuner
  • ARP Studs
  • Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter Kit
  • Updated Oil Cooler
  • Garrett Powermax Turbo
  • BD Diesel Up-Pipes
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgiebels View Post
I haven't drained it in the past week. Ford replaced the filters on Thursday 12/28/2017, just a few days ago really. I drained it when I did the last oil change a few months ago.... not much to speak of.

Once I get the Fuel Pressure Gauge installed I'll be able to see that. I also want to test the FICM voltage the next time the weather permits me to work on it (outside). It just has to be above 15 degrees and lower wind...

What would the symptoms of a bad LPOP be? I'm thinking if it couldn't keep up, with the cold oil, it would be starving the HPOP... then again, maybe the temperature is affecting the HPOP... just don't know...
I don't know...5w30 has about the best flow characteristics possible and guys with heavier viscosities are not having oil related issues even in this cold. I suppose it could make some difference if your oil is conventional rather than synthetic.

The reason I suggested draining the fuel bowl again is because water may be present in your system. Diesel is hygroscopic so it attracts water. Warm diesel can hold more water than very cold diesel so these recent cold temps have resulted in water dropping out of the fuel and so more free water in the bottom of the fuel tank and possibly getting drawn up through the lines.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

Last edited by ArcticDriver; 01-03-2018 at 04:28 PM.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-05-2018, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth86 View Post
I believe I'm having the same issues with 2007 f350 6.0. I tried to get some of the reading asked for earlier but I'm not a mechanic and I'm not sure what some of the abbreviations mean like EBP, EOT and so on.

But I got a few others with my Innova 3040 code scanner (these are the reading it gave me)

Koeo
Map 29.9
Baro 29.9
Ect 104.0
Iat 64.4

Now I've replaced my fuel filters and drained the water seperator and in recent months replaced the number 8 injector, brand new turbo, and brand new alternator and I'm comp!etely lost as to where to go next. I can hear the fuel pump, I know the ficm is aftermarket but not sure how old, someone please help I need to get back to work!
For abbreviations there are a couple threads on here with a full list of them. I wrote one a few years back. Do a search and you should easily find one of them.

I would start by testing your FICM voltage. Aftermarket FICMs are junk. My guess is you have cracked solder joints that are opening up a little once the engine builds some heat and they expand and you're getting intermittent contact. A voltage test may or may not reveal an issue. FICMs can have good voltage output and still be bad, because the voltage test only tests the capacitors in the amplifier section. To really diagnose an FICM you need to either swap it for a known good one, or send it to someone like FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts. Even Ford dealers lack the tools to test an FICM, so the odds of find a local shop that can diagnose it are about zip.
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'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, RCD 175/30 injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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