Join Date: Jul 2007
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
For an '03 there's no need to run a programmer if you don't want to. It will not set a CEL if you delete the EGR cooler. Its personal preference, and the earlier EGR coolers are a better design than the later ones, with fewer problem, but I would just delete it and be done. You remove two potential failure points in the system (the cooler and the valve). That said, don't actually get rid of the valve. Leave it in place and plugged in. Once the cooler is deleted it can't do anything, but if its unplugged a reference value the PCM needs which is taken from the valve is lost and it can effect cooling fan operation.
Another thing to consider is that by removing the cooler you remove a major point of support for the y-pipe, which will often fail at the bellows on the RH side as a result. Its more work, but replacing the y-pipe with either an aftermarket one or a modified stock one will prevent this issue.
'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, RCD 175/30 injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94
'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s