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02 f250 7.3l horrible grind

4K views 22 replies 5 participants last post by  klhansen 
#1 ·
I recently went from v-10 to 7.3 still have both. I’m having trouble with the 02 7.3 4x4 drind and clinking. You can hear it in the front wheels with the rpms. Without pushing the gas the front end clunks pretty bad, a lot of vibration and I haven’t put it four wheel since. Anyone have any thoughts
 
#2 ·
First thing I would check is the axle u-joints. If you've got any movement between yokes, you'll need to pull the axle shafts and replace the u-joints. Could also be driveshaft u-joints. Check them all.
 
#5 ·
Sooooo tell us a bit more. Looks like a new sway bar, did you do that? Looks like just a bad U-joint to me however, that is not a stock shock set up so has someone been playing with the front axle? That is the only reason somehow a too long shaft would get in. Bolts on the spline look unmolested so I don't think it is a shaft issue. Is that leak coming from the front shaft seal? I would check fluid level before I drove it any more. Go to your homepage and put some info on your truck so we know what we are dealing with see the sig block below.
DENNY
 
#6 ·
Yep, there’s definitely shiny metal and gouging where the u-joint is allowing too much play/in a bind.
 
#7 · (Edited)
The centering ball on the cardan joint is definitely worn out. It keeps the two u-joints at the t-case at the same angle. Your front driveshaft probably needs a complete rebuild.
 
#8 ·
How much lift are you running? The angles don't look right and as KLHansen mentioned it could be the Cardan Joint being bad. Your lift looks pretty big and that could be causing the wear to happen.
 
#9 ·
I’m sorry I’m horrible with technology, couldn’t figure out how to do anything but put a picture. I just bought this 02 f250 7.3l diesel. 8” lift 35”. The transmission fluid was coming out exactly where it shows. I’m new to diesels and this big of lift. My 00 v10 6.8 had and still has no issues since I bought it 4 years ago. I’ve already had to put in new glow plugs injectors. I’m pretty mechanically inclined and would like to do this myself since I have the other truck to use while this is dow?
 
#10 ·
Not a bad job to rebuild the front driveshaft. Getting it out is pretty easy, but the cardan joint is a little more involved, especially if the centering ball is worn. It would need to be pulled off the yoke and a new ball installed. Kits are available at most parts stores, and you can borrow a c-clamp style press for the u-joints. If you've replaced injectors, you can fix your front driveshaft.
Like Ken mentioned, increased angles from the lift will reduce the life of the u-joints.
 
#12 ·
The fluid from the transfer case looks to be at the case halves. To fix this, you may have to split the case and reseal. Is it coming from the front drive shaft output yoke and running down?
 
#14 ·
#15 ·
That leak doesn't look that bad. If it's not dripping on the ground, I'd just re-torque the case bolts and leave it at that.

Ken's link to the cardan joint repair indicates that the ball is not serviceable, but it is possible to pull it off the driveshaft yoke and replace it. I've done it, although probably spent more effort than it's worth. The repair kits come with a ball. It's more likely that the seats that the ball rides on are where the wear occurs, and not the ball. When reseating cups on the u-joints, be very careful not to dislodge the needle bearings when installing them on the journals. With the spring between the parts, it takes a bit more care than with a single u-joint.

Good luck.
 
#16 ·
Ken's link to the cardan joint repair indicates that the ball is not serviceable
Everything is repairable in my opinion :grin2:. It probably isn't to a dealership though, they just sell you a new one! I would guess a good driveline shop has a fix if needed.
 
#17 ·
That ball was a PITA to get off the driveshaft yoke. Couldn't get a puller to budge it till we took a die grinder to it to cut a slot nearly to the stub it's pressed onto. A dealer would have said "You need a new driveshaft." :thdown:
My local driveline shop would have just replaced the yoke.
 
#19 ·
I got the u joints done today on the front drive shaft right at the transfer case, however the problem still exists. I didn’t have time to split the case but think the issue might be in there! Any thoughts. Also can I pull the one out of my 2000 v10 f250 and use it temporarily while I rebuild existing one?
 
#20 ·
It's possible the drive belt in the t-case has worn out, or there are bearings that are worn. Did you notice any play in the yoke where the driveshaft bolts on?
I'm not sure, but if both your trucks have automatic transmissions, and both are either electric or manual shift, then they should interchange. I think the only difference might be the input splines.


Did you check the axle u-joints?
 
#21 ·
When you spin the driveline by hand, does it make contact and grind?

You can just remove the front driveshaft and run without it. You would have a 2wd then.
 
#22 ·
In the double cardam joint, the piece in the middle has a ton of play. When I rotate by hand that’s where it’s really floppy. It’s middle of winter and being a contractor with 16’ trailer I need the 4wheel. I’d really like to fix it rather than throw it away.
 
#23 ·
Did you get the centering ball kit for the cardan joint? If you just replaced the u-joints and the centering ball socket is worn out, that would cause the flop and play you're describing.
Cardan joint repair kit
 
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