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2000 f250 7.3 just clicks

4K views 34 replies 9 participants last post by  Randy 4614 
#1 ·
Ok so hopefully someone can help with this I have a 2000 f250 4wd that just clicks when trying to start it both batteries are newer and have 12.5v coming from them with the terminals off and 12.4 on the wire with terminals on I replaced the solenoid switch on the fender and put a new starter in and nothing still just clicks at the starter I checked all the fuses and relays all checked out good I’m not a mechanic but I assumed I covered most of the starting portion of the truck I cleaned off the ends of the connections at solenoid switch and starter and battery terminals any ideas Because im lost now.

Also the old starter passed on a bench test but figured had it out put a new one in thought maybe the new one is bad they tested it and seemed fine also
 
#3 · (Edited)
Could be a bad starter relay:
This is located under the hood on the right-side fender well, above the vacuum reservoir.
When you turn your key, the relay closes and supplies the higher current needed for the starter solenoid (the key energizes the relay, the relay energizes the starter). That may be what you hear clicking when you try to crank. Relay could be bad...

You can jump across the large terminals on the relay to see if the starter will crank (basically bypassing the relay). USE CAUTION if you do this!

Also, what is the voltage reading on the batteries when you're trying to crank it? Should stay above 9-10 volts.

~Al
 
#4 ·
I just replaced the relay and I’m not sure don’t have anyone to help out with starting it but I Hooked my 16 Cummins up to both batteries with it running and still got nothing I can operate my salt spreader and 8.5ft western plow at the same time off the truck in start position without it running and the battery gauge doesn’t budge
 
#6 ·
Well, if the relay's good, and it's getting power from the key switch, then sounds like a bad starter.

Can you prop the meter up in the windshield to watch it from the drivers seat? Put your meter's hot lead on the output terminal to the starter, then check it while key is in START. See if you got 12v out of the relay to the starter motor.

Just as an FYI: Fuse #20, in the under-dash fuse box, supplies the relay when key is in START position. Might check that fuse too... If the fuse is blown, no power to the relay.
 
#8 ·
Mmmmm... possibly, but not likely.

The two negative battery cables should be directly-connected to the block on each side. Bolts tight? Batt clamps clean and tight? Is the starter bolted-up tight? That's your ground connection at the starter...

Are you getting 12-volts on the starter power cable (big power cable) at the starter?

Just tryin' to throw out ideas to check...
 
#9 ·
Are you testing the solenoid on the battery or starter side? Have someone try to start the truck while you are testing the small wire to the solenoid and starter side of solenoid.
DENNY
 
#10 · (Edited)
Have you tried to make the starter crank over right down at the starter? Jump the little wire to the battery one. right on the starter , should crank over.

Also doing bench test at the parts store is meaningless on a diesel starter, have to load test them which pretty much all parts stores can't do.
 
#11 ·
My Denso started to click. It started on the bench fine, but did not have enough guts to turn the motor. Got a new one on warranty, and fired right up. At that point I realized how weak the old one was. THe new one spun much faster. You get used to it and don't notice it getting weak, then one day, click click click. Also, before I got the denso, I had stock starters that went all the time. They are weak. Several times I had to exchange a brand new starter for another because of how weak it was. IT was when I exchanged one, then it died in a week that I decided to buy the big boy. I can't help much other than that. My truck has no relay under the hood, different year. I like the jumper cable right to the starter idea posted above. If it clicks then and does nothing , the starter is weak.
 
#12 ·
The new starter started the truck twice over a week I forgot to mention that and now just clicks maybe it burned it up somehow if that’s the case is there something that would cause it to burn up except for it just being a bad starter I will try to jump it straight to the starter to verify it’s bad again
 
#13 ·
When doing it right at the starter you just need to little jump wire , the one you can buy with small clips on the ends, then just put it to the battery cable at the start. It will spark hen first doing it , but just put it there hard and if starter is any good it will crank over. If not bad solenoid or starter. Who are you getting the starters from?
 
#15 ·
If you don't, how will the starter have power?........

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#16 ·
Yours is different than mine, so I'm not totally sure. Mine has no relay on the fender. So, since you have the relay Id guess your trying to bypass that. If you provide 12v to the little wire, all it does is turn the starter on, and activates the solenoid to pop the gear out. All the power is provide by the big wire. On mine the big wire goes straight from the battery to the starter, no relay involved, and the little wire is controlled by a relay in the fuse box. I would think your big wire is attached to the relay on the fender. If it is, then to properly test the starter you would need to supply a power wire from the battery straight to the large lug on the starter.(take the relay one off and move it to the battery, don't use both) Then to activate the starter you need to provide 12v to the little wire. Once the relay on the fender is bypassed, you could just activate the small wire by clipping a short jumper from the big lug on starter to the little lug on the small wire. Or straight from the battery. But since you say the starter click, Id just provide the 12v to the big lug bypassing the relay, then just use your key to activate the little wire. Its clearly functioning if it clicks when your turn your key. AS said my system is a bit different, so might want to confirm all that. lol
 
#25 ·
That's not how this works......
You would be hard pressed to find a setup that uses a single wire starter, like you assume the "relay on the fender" style works. (Since the early 80's, no Ford diesel ever had one either)
A. Starter always has constant power directly off the battery.
B. The wire coming from the fender relay to the starter is just the "start wire." For whatever reason (I'm guessing amp draw) Ford ran the start wire through that fender relay on the older trucks. No different than how yours works with the relay in the fuse box.


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#17 ·
At this point I would just pop the starter off and see what it does on the floor. 10 15 mins can have the starter off. use jumper cables to the starter then jump from little terminal to the larger power one. Clicks bad starter, works problems elsewhere.
 
#18 ·
Unfortunately, this is not the case. Do not rely on this test!! As with my recent starter replacement. It worked great on the bench. But didn't have enough torque to turn the motor. So the click is the solenoid pop, then nothing could be dead motor, but also can be too weak a motor, like mine. Proper bench testing requires a load on the motor.
 
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#20 ·
Respect your opinion, but if it spins , hes off on a wild goose chase because he will assume its fine. Id guess at least 50% of failed starters are from weak motors, not total failure. Also, my post before explained he need only MOVE the positive wire from the relay to the battery terminal. No need to put your hand on the starter. He already stated cleaning the terminal on the NEW starter, so its not a factor. Unless his positive wire is bad. Also, he said hes using the key to fire it, and it clicks. So solenoid is being activated, whether its working or not. So no need to put your hand on the starter there either. Simply move the positive from the relay to the battery. Try the key. If it clicks, the motor is dead or too weak to start. If it starts, the relay is broke. All assuming batteries are 100%
 
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#21 ·
Just went through something like this on my 99 Powerstroke. Six month old nap a starter turn the key on to start it would click but it wouldn't start. Jumped both large terminals at the starter and it would crank over. Pulled the starter and tested it on the ground the solenoid would not engage. Took it back got a brand new starter everything work just fine. But these diesels one has to be a little mechanically inclined to work on them or just pull them to a shop. I would say that the majority of the no starts on them are bad starters. One reason why to spend good money and buy a good starter for them. I'm learning that Napa starters don't fall into the category of good starters.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J327A using Tapatalk
 
#22 ·
If the solenoid is gone, then the motor spins , but the engine doesn't. In my opinion. Get the Denso starter. It barely fits in there, I had to grind 1/4 inch off the frame to fit mine. It also uses all 3 bolts. Common for the 2 bolts to come loose. 3 hold better and that ensures the ground is secure. It of course costs more. But well worth it when you hear how fast your motor spins up with the torque the Denso has. Everything at Napa is made in China. Just saying.
 
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#27 ·
Have you lifted up the shifter handle or tried to start in neutral?

The shifter alignment could be off causing this very thing.
 
#29 ·
Have you lifted up the shifter handle or tried to start in neutral?
The shifter alignment could be off causing this very thing.
Neutral-start switch interrupts the circuit between the key switch and the fender relay. If the neutral-start switch were open, he wouldn't be getting a "click"...
 
#28 ·
You kids today...
Nobody remembers how to stick an old screw driver across the terminals to bump a starter?

C'mon! :grin2:
 
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#30 ·
I appreciate everyone help yes I used a 12 in 2 gauge jumper wire that was for a plow solenoid to the fender relay and got a click I then used a voltage meter to make sure I was getting power at the constant (big wire) at the starter I was getting 12.58 at the starter I then jumped the big wire at the starter to the small terminal and I just got a click then I went ahead and redone the battery terminals and cutting about a inch off each side of the wiring on the battery lines to clear from the corrosion on them and then added lugs to connect to terminals after that checked again and just clicked I hooked both batteries to both batteries on my Cummins with it turned on and again starter just clicked I checked number 20 fuse like suggested and it tested good so I went ahead and replaced it anyway still just clicked so I went ahead and took the starter off and took to autozone starter tested good asked them to give me a new one because it’s under warranty and won’t work under load I cleaned up the area bolts to and i assume is the spot it grounds itself so I went at it with a wire brush untill it was clean installed new starter and fired right up end result autozone starters suck
 
#32 ·
Glad you got it back running. Like I have said before , A parts Store doing a test on the starter means nothing unless they can load test it which almost none of them can. Sad thing is it is more then like going to happen not to far down the road again. I am about ready to get a good starter and carry it with me until my last one dies , which it will.
 
#31 · (Edited)
This is what I run.

Similar to Denso unit, but utilizes all three factory mounting bolts. Also, wiring is towards the bottom (when installed) so much easier to access the cables.

Got nearly 14 years out of my original OEM Ford starter. But it was getting tired... Several months in on this one... so far so good.

Cranks the heck out of it! Made in USA also!

PowerMaster Starter
 

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#33 ·
Other than the starter just being junk is there a reason the starter would burn out that fast I noticed a small uncovered hole on the starter facing the ground I would assume a lot of water would get into the starter through there I went ahead and bought a starter heat wrap really just to eleviate the chance of water moisture going into there but other than a bad starter could something else burn it ???
 
#34 ·
That hole you found, IS as drain. Don't plug it. From factory there should be a rubber hose attached, but like mine they break off. DO NOT PLUG THAT HOLE
 
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