2000 f250 7.3 just clicks - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

 5Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 09:12 AM
Senior Member
 
Absolute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 998
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Yours is different than mine, so I'm not totally sure. Mine has no relay on the fender. So, since you have the relay Id guess your trying to bypass that. If you provide 12v to the little wire, all it does is turn the starter on, and activates the solenoid to pop the gear out. All the power is provide by the big wire. On mine the big wire goes straight from the battery to the starter, no relay involved, and the little wire is controlled by a relay in the fuse box. I would think your big wire is attached to the relay on the fender. If it is, then to properly test the starter you would need to supply a power wire from the battery straight to the large lug on the starter.(take the relay one off and move it to the battery, don't use both) Then to activate the starter you need to provide 12v to the little wire. Once the relay on the fender is bypassed, you could just activate the small wire by clipping a short jumper from the big lug on starter to the little lug on the small wire. Or straight from the battery. But since you say the starter click, Id just provide the 12v to the big lug bypassing the relay, then just use your key to activate the little wire. Its clearly functioning if it clicks when your turn your key. AS said my system is a bit different, so might want to confirm all that. lol

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
1999 Mustang GT Convertible Anniversary, rare stock electric green
2009 40' Raptor Velocity Toy Hauler
Absolute is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 09:38 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Middle of Montana
Posts: 155
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
At this point I would just pop the starter off and see what it does on the floor. 10 15 mins can have the starter off. use jumper cables to the starter then jump from little terminal to the larger power one. Clicks bad starter, works problems elsewhere.
Randy 4614 is offline  
post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 10:11 AM
Senior Member
 
Absolute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 998
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy 4614 View Post
At this point I would just pop the starter off and see what it does on the floor. 10 15 mins can have the starter off. use jumper cables to the starter then jump from little terminal to the larger power one. Clicks bad starter, works problems elsewhere.
Unfortunately, this is not the case. Do not rely on this test!! As with my recent starter replacement. It worked great on the bench. But didn't have enough torque to turn the motor. So the click is the solenoid pop, then nothing could be dead motor, but also can be too weak a motor, like mine. Proper bench testing requires a load on the motor.
Randy 4614 likes this.

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
1999 Mustang GT Convertible Anniversary, rare stock electric green
2009 40' Raptor Velocity Toy Hauler
Absolute is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 10:30 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Middle of Montana
Posts: 155
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Absolute View Post
Unfortunately, this is not the case. Do not rely on this test!! As with my recent starter replacement. It worked great on the bench. But didn't have enough torque to turn the motor. So the click is the solenoid pop, then nothing could be dead motor, but also can be too weak a motor, like mine. Proper bench testing requires a load on the motor.
The point is you will know if the solenoid on the starter is engaging the starter and making it spin. Totally agree a load test is the only real way to test one, which parts stores can't do. In this case being he can't reach the little wire he should drop the starter hookup up a wire set it back up and try it that way.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J327A using Tapatalk

Last edited by Randy 4614; 01-16-2019 at 10:38 AM.
Randy 4614 is offline  
post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 11:08 AM
Senior Member
 
Absolute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 998
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Respect your opinion, but if it spins , hes off on a wild goose chase because he will assume its fine. Id guess at least 50% of failed starters are from weak motors, not total failure. Also, my post before explained he need only MOVE the positive wire from the relay to the battery terminal. No need to put your hand on the starter. He already stated cleaning the terminal on the NEW starter, so its not a factor. Unless his positive wire is bad. Also, he said hes using the key to fire it, and it clicks. So solenoid is being activated, whether its working or not. So no need to put your hand on the starter there either. Simply move the positive from the relay to the battery. Try the key. If it clicks, the motor is dead or too weak to start. If it starts, the relay is broke. All assuming batteries are 100%
Randy 4614 likes this.

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
1999 Mustang GT Convertible Anniversary, rare stock electric green
2009 40' Raptor Velocity Toy Hauler
Absolute is offline  
post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 11:26 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Middle of Montana
Posts: 155
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Absolute View Post
Respect your opinion, but if it spins , hes off on a wild goose chase because he will assume its fine. Id guess at least 50% of failed starters are from weak motors, not total failure. Also, my post before explained he need only MOVE the positive wire from the relay to the battery terminal. No need to put your hand on the starter. He already stated cleaning the terminal on the NEW starter, so its not a factor. Unless his positive wire is bad. Also, he said hes using the key to fire it, and it clicks. So solenoid is being activated, whether its working or not. So no need to put your hand on the starter there either. Simply move the positive from the relay to the battery. Try the key. If it clicks, the motor is dead or too weak to start. If it starts, the relay is broke. All assuming batteries are 100%
Just went through something like this on my 99 Powerstroke. Six month old nap a starter turn the key on to start it would click but it wouldn't start. Jumped both large terminals at the starter and it would crank over. Pulled the starter and tested it on the ground the solenoid would not engage. Took it back got a brand new starter everything work just fine. But these diesels one has to be a little mechanically inclined to work on them or just pull them to a shop. I would say that the majority of the no starts on them are bad starters. One reason why to spend good money and buy a good starter for them. I'm learning that Napa starters don't fall into the category of good starters.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J327A using Tapatalk
Randy 4614 is offline  
post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 11:35 AM
Senior Member
 
Absolute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 998
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
If the solenoid is gone, then the motor spins , but the engine doesn't. In my opinion. Get the Denso starter. It barely fits in there, I had to grind 1/4 inch off the frame to fit mine. It also uses all 3 bolts. Common for the 2 bolts to come loose. 3 hold better and that ensures the ground is secure. It of course costs more. But well worth it when you hear how fast your motor spins up with the torque the Denso has. Everything at Napa is made in China. Just saying.
Randy 4614 likes this.

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
1999 Mustang GT Convertible Anniversary, rare stock electric green
2009 40' Raptor Velocity Toy Hauler
Absolute is offline  
post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 12:58 PM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
klhansen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Eagle River, Alaska
Posts: 24,684
My Photos: (180)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake7.3/6.7 View Post
Auto zone I couldn’t reach the little one with a jumper do I need to have the battery cable on the big positive before I try to jump the little wire
How long were the jumper cables they tried to use? 6 inches? It's only about a foot from the passenger side battery positive terminal to the small terminal on the starter relay. Or it's about 2 inches from the hot terminal on the relay over to the small terminal.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
), AIS,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
regulated return,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
klhansen is offline  
post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 02:37 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: California
Posts: 1,935
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by klhansen View Post
How long were the jumper cables they tried to use? 6 inches? It's only about a foot from the passenger side battery positive terminal to the small terminal on the starter relay. Or it's about 2 inches from the hot terminal on the relay over to the small terminal.
It sounds to me as if it wasn't exactly clear to the OP exactly from where to where he was supposed to jump. Maybe he was trying to jump from the battery terminal down to the starter, and the cables weren't long enough, or possibly there wasn't clearance and the battery cable terminals couldn't fit into where he was trying to put them. Maybe with a clearer explanation he can understand exactly from where to where he is supposed to jump.

2001 F350 XLT 4X4 crew cab, dual rear wheels, long bed, black, 7.3l turbo diesel, automatic transmission, 4.10, shift on the fly, running boards, sliding rear window, 38 gal fuel tank, Odyssey extreme 65-PC1750T batteries, Michelin LTX-MS2 rear tires, Sumitomo Encounter front tires, Shell Rotella Ultra elc, 11,500 gvwr, 20,000 gcwr, 7500 gvw, completely stock, 114,000 miles when purchased, now has 250,000 miles, repairs so far: two starters, batteries, cps, brakes, tires, alternator, ball joints, locking hub, wheel hub, AC compressor, serpentine belt, power steering pump, driver's side window, ignition switch, o-ring, Spectra premium radiator, water pump, fan clutch, fan blades, thermostat, thermostat housing, tensioner. Stolen twice so far, but recovered both times with major damage.

2005 Nomad Rampage toyhauler made by Skyline. 11,500lb gvwr.
DonWarkentin is offline  
post #25 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 03:49 PM
Senior Member
 
79jasper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,616
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Absolute View Post
Yours is different than mine, so I'm not totally sure. Mine has no relay on the fender. So, since you have the relay Id guess your trying to bypass that. If you provide 12v to the little wire, all it does is turn the starter on, and activates the solenoid to pop the gear out. All the power is provide by the big wire. On mine the big wire goes straight from the battery to the starter, no relay involved, and the little wire is controlled by a relay in the fuse box. I would think your big wire is attached to the relay on the fender. If it is, then to properly test the starter you would need to supply a power wire from the battery straight to the large lug on the starter.(take the relay one off and move it to the battery, don't use both) Then to activate the starter you need to provide 12v to the little wire. Once the relay on the fender is bypassed, you could just activate the small wire by clipping a short jumper from the big lug on starter to the little lug on the small wire. Or straight from the battery. But since you say the starter click, Id just provide the 12v to the big lug bypassing the relay, then just use your key to activate the little wire. Its clearly functioning if it clicks when your turn your key. AS said my system is a bit different, so might want to confirm all that. lol
That's not how this works......
You would be hard pressed to find a setup that uses a single wire starter, like you assume the "relay on the fender" style works. (Since the early 80's, no Ford diesel ever had one either)
A. Starter always has constant power directly off the battery.
B. The wire coming from the fender relay to the starter is just the "start wire." For whatever reason (I'm guessing amp draw) Ford ran the start wire through that fender relay on the older trucks. No different than how yours works with the relay in the fuse box.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

1994 F350 7.3 PSD 4X4 ZF5 DUALLY
PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV DELETE. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.

2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
79jasper is offline  
post #26 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 04:21 PM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
klhansen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Eagle River, Alaska
Posts: 24,684
My Photos: (180)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonWarkentin View Post
It sounds to me as if it wasn't exactly clear to the OP exactly from where to where he was supposed to jump. Maybe he was trying to jump from the battery terminal down to the starter, and the cables weren't long enough, or possibly there wasn't clearance and the battery cable terminals couldn't fit into where he was trying to put them. Maybe with a clearer explanation he can understand exactly from where to where he is supposed to jump.
Don
You're exactly right. But you'd think that a parts store counter guy would have some understanding of starting circuits.

To the OP: To test the starter relay on the fender, jumper 12V to the small terminal on the relay. It should pull in and send power to the small terminal on the starter solenoid mounted on the starter. If it still doesn't crank over, then you need to test the starter solenoid itself. Do that by jumpering 12V to the small terminal on the starter solenoid (a little hard to get at, as it's up by the crossmember and above the starter). There will be constant 12V at the large cable terminal on the starter as 79 Jasper explained, so you can jump from that terminal to the small terminal on the starter solenoid.
Randy 4614 likes this.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
), AIS,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
regulated return,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
klhansen is offline  
post #27 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 06:12 PM
Senior Member
 
blue99stroker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: chico, ca
Posts: 2,831
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Have you lifted up the shifter handle or tried to start in neutral?

The shifter alignment could be off causing this very thing.

99.5 f250 7.3 4x4- 277k FF 160/30, Hydra w/SDK Tunes, S&B CAI, 4" Exhaust, Van turbo w/Riffraff Billet wheel, Autometer Gauges, Built Trans, Trucool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.


Dads-2000 f250 7.3 4x4- 118k K&N Intake w/Amsoil Filter, 4" Exhaust, Autometer Gauges, Superchip 1705 (Tow Safe), BD Billet Wheel, TruCool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.
blue99stroker is offline  
post #28 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 06:18 PM
Senior Member
 
Calico5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: SoCal
Posts: 130
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
You kids today...
Nobody remembers how to stick an old screw driver across the terminals to bump a starter?

C'mon!
Randy 4614 likes this.

Al in SoCal
AFE Intake; Garrett 38R; DieselSite Turbine Jacket
HPS Hi-Temp CAC Boots; Banks Big IC, Banks Engine Brake
External Oil cooler & Remote filter; Stealth 4-line Twin HPOP, Melling LPOP
Swamp's: 160cc/30% Injectors & HVHF IDM; DP-Tuner F5; Fluidamper Balancer
Custom Full Reg.-return Fuel System, Pre-& Post-pump filtration
Mishimoto Radiator & Exp. Tank; T444 Water Pump w/Filtration
Bellowed S/S Up-pipes; 4" Turbo-back Custom Exhaust into Twin Stacks
SouthBend D-D Clutch; ZF 6-spd w/CoreShifters Short-throw Stick
GearVendors O/U Drive

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Calico5 is offline  
post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 06:21 PM
Senior Member
 
Calico5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: SoCal
Posts: 130
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by blue99stroker View Post
Have you lifted up the shifter handle or tried to start in neutral?
The shifter alignment could be off causing this very thing.
Neutral-start switch interrupts the circuit between the key switch and the fender relay. If the neutral-start switch were open, he wouldn't be getting a "click"...

Al in SoCal
AFE Intake; Garrett 38R; DieselSite Turbine Jacket
HPS Hi-Temp CAC Boots; Banks Big IC, Banks Engine Brake
External Oil cooler & Remote filter; Stealth 4-line Twin HPOP, Melling LPOP
Swamp's: 160cc/30% Injectors & HVHF IDM; DP-Tuner F5; Fluidamper Balancer
Custom Full Reg.-return Fuel System, Pre-& Post-pump filtration
Mishimoto Radiator & Exp. Tank; T444 Water Pump w/Filtration
Bellowed S/S Up-pipes; 4" Turbo-back Custom Exhaust into Twin Stacks
SouthBend D-D Clutch; ZF 6-spd w/CoreShifters Short-throw Stick
GearVendors O/U Drive

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Calico5 is offline  
post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Jake7.3/6.7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 9
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I appreciate everyone help yes I used a 12 in 2 gauge jumper wire that was for a plow solenoid to the fender relay and got a click I then used a voltage meter to make sure I was getting power at the constant (big wire) at the starter I was getting 12.58 at the starter I then jumped the big wire at the starter to the small terminal and I just got a click then I went ahead and redone the battery terminals and cutting about a inch off each side of the wiring on the battery lines to clear from the corrosion on them and then added lugs to connect to terminals after that checked again and just clicked I hooked both batteries to both batteries on my Cummins with it turned on and again starter just clicked I checked number 20 fuse like suggested and it tested good so I went ahead and replaced it anyway still just clicked so I went ahead and took the starter off and took to autozone starter tested good asked them to give me a new one because it’s under warranty and won’t work under load I cleaned up the area bolts to and i assume is the spot it grounds itself so I went at it with a wire brush untill it was clean installed new starter and fired right up end result autozone starters suck
Jake7.3/6.7 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties > '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome