2000 F350 oil pan removal - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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2000 F350 oil pan removal

My question is, is it possible to unbolt the motor mounts and hoist up the motor enough to remove the oil pan?
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 02:31 PM
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It's a recipe for failure, I'm sorry.
Pull it, flip it on stand. Engine is extremely Harvey and will chop your feet if if falls. Use a stand rated at a minus of 1500 pounds and they will flex, sway and make you sweat. I suggest 2k plus. Prep surfaces with acetone use quality RTV sealant allowing to cure per instructions.
Scuff pan and use quality paint like Krylon Industrial or Fisher Snow Plow Paint.
Do it right and once. Use gloves when handling solvents as they pass thru skin in take an organ visit via your blood system, can blind you if in eyes. Where respirator so it doesn't enter your system via your lungs. Do it safe, have a happy healthy life, it's NO GOOD to disregard.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 02:47 PM
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Nick is right.

In order to get a perfect cure the engine must be flipped upside down.

Ill take it a step further and say only use int'l grey sealant.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 08:12 PM
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Do have to pull the pan all the way off or drop it down a couple of inches?

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 11:09 PM
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Read the above posts. Engine must be flipped over and the rtv must cure for 24 hours.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 11:16 PM
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Do have to pull the pan all the way off or drop it down a couple of inches?
The problem is not how far you can pull it down, but how much trouble it would be to get everything actually clean and oil-free in order to get a good seal when putting it back together. I have removed a pan and let me tell you it's no easy task even with the engine on a stand and upside down. I would hate to try it laying on my back (or even overhead on under a lift) trying to get all the old sealant off with the front differential and engine crossmember in the way. You'd be much better off just pulling the engine and do it right.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 08:51 AM
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The oil pan is such a frustrating topic to me. Moroso makes a soild one piece oil pan gasket which is an option, and which I was going to use when I had my motor out but changed my mind. You can read my review of it here:
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...ations-525737/

I ended up using the Ford TA31 grey sealant, but I did not turn the engine upside down, I did it with it right side up on an engine stand. Not sure if this was the cause or if I just didn't apply enough sealant, but I've had issues with it continuing to leak in both the rear and front. In the rear, after I removed the trans, I could see I missed a tiny spot with sealant, and in the front, I have some very light seepage near the bottom of the curve that meets the front engine cover. In both cases, I've cut off the excess sealant original sealant and applied more sealant externally after a good cleaning with brake cleaner and compressed air. I believe I solved the problem in the rear, and the verdict is still open on the front, as I just did that one last weekend and haven't driven it yet.

If you were to decide to try the Moroso route, I think it might be possible to do it without removing the engine - you'd have to remove the turbo and a lot of other stuff off of the top and front of the engine and disconnect your water hoses for sure, and I'm sure several other things I cant think of off the top of my head. As KL said, removing the old sealant would be difficult, BUT I disagree that removing the pan itself is that difficult, if you have the space to cut it well with a box cutter and/or razor blade, it comes off not too bad with some light prying. And since the main thing that keeps the pan from coming out with the engine lifted up is the oil pickup tube, if you could raise the engine enough to unbolt the pickup tube (two bolts in the front, and one bracket bolt in the back) I would think you could pull the pan out entirely from between the block and the crossmember to enable a thorough cleaning? I just don't see why that wouldn't work, but I've never heard of anyone whose tried it.

Plus I'd sure like to hear from someone who had a successful installation of the Moroso oil pan, as I didnt get to that point, but maybe I should have.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 09:12 AM
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One note I would make is RTV sealant stands for room temperature vulcanization. I am of the belief using heat guns can change a whole lot.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 10:03 AM
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One note I would make is RTV sealant stands for room temperature vulcanization. I am of the belief using heat guns can change a whole lot.
The internet does not seem to share your belief. From what I've read "room temperature vulcanizing" silicone will harden or cure without a heat gun or other heat source, but a heat source does not really change it.

So you're probably right that I wasted some time with the heat gun, but I don't believe I damaged it.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperDutyTrooper View Post
And since the main thing that keeps the pan from coming out with the engine lifted up is the oil pickup tube, if you could raise the engine enough to unbolt the pickup tube (two bolts in the front, and one bracket bolt in the back) I would think you could pull the pan out entirely from between the block and the crossmember to enable a thorough cleaning? I just don't see why that wouldn't work, but I've never heard of anyone whose tried it.
Your picture is a good indication of how much room you'd really need. Imagine trying to unbolt that rear pickup tube bracket without the 18" or so that you have the pan dropped down. Then imagine doing it with the front differential and crossmember in the way. My arms only have one elbow each.


BTW, your repatch with the RTV isn't a long term solution. The problem is, RTV won't stick to already cured RTV, so there will always be a leak path, and oil will eventually find its way thru. If you can live with a seep, then I guess that's OK.

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-30-2016, 04:54 AM
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Morning Super, yes, I'm referring to the vulcanization process and what's happening during that processs ( vulcanization ) and at what temperature ( room ) and over what time period,( on back of tube ). Can somebody accelerate this with a heat gun? perhaps.
Some people fight windmills to try to get breeze. I will not fight, I will do it the very best way it can be done. I will not be returning to do it again. I will not have somebody with my work out there to leave them with an issue or others seeing it and asking," who did that".
But that me.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-30-2016, 06:30 AM
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Your picture is a good indication of how much room you'd really need. Imagine trying to unbolt that rear pickup tube bracket without the 18" or so that you have the pan dropped down.
I dont think you'd need the 12" or so as shown in my pic . . . I think you'd only need a few inches to get a wrench in to unbolt the front and rear of the pickup tube.


Quote:
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BTW, your repatch with the RTV isn't a long term solution. The problem is, RTV won't stick to already cured RTV, so there will always be a leak path, and oil will eventually find its way thru. If you can live with a seep, then I guess that's OK.
The RTV most certainly sticks to everything else, so I'm not totally convinced that it will not stick to THOROUGHLY CLEANED existing RTV. . . I got this idea from a professional 7.3 mechanic who said that it worked for him. Like I said, however, the verdict is still open on the patch, but you're probably right, more than likely it is not a permanent solution. In which case at some point, I might get to find out if I am right when I say that removal of the pan with the engine lifted may in fact be possible.

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-30-2016, 04:02 PM
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I dont think you'd need the 12" or so as shown in my pic . . . I think you'd only need a few inches to get a wrench in to unbolt the front and rear of the pickup tube.
You may be right about being able to get to the rear bolt, but I still don't think it would be easy. I'd rather not fight with it myself.
My 18" estimate was from block surface to the bottom of the pan, because there would be a crossmember in the way unless you lifted the motor higher than the obstructions between the top of the engine and the cowl. Also, the tranny would probably hit the cab floor by then as well.

I hope your fix works on the RTV. I have had oil seeps that I have ignored because it would be more trouble to fix than to just add oil when needed. Also I don't usually try to eat off my engine block.

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-30-2016, 08:48 PM
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You may be right about being able to get to the rear bolt, but I still don't think it would be easy. I'd rather not fight with it myself.
Also, the tranny would probably hit the cab floor by then as well.
I agree, there's no way it will be easy, and I wish I had gotten it right the first time - I was VERY careful and followed ALL instructions except the one about turning the engine upside down and still got it only about 90% right. But since I likely will have this problem, my thoughts are I will TRY to lift the engine and pull just the pan, and if it doesn't work, then I'll finish the job and pull the whole engine out. I think it would be worth the minor amount of additional effort to give it a try. But that's a ways down the road for me even if my fix doesnt work, gonna spend some time with the boat at the lake this summer, instead of under the truck like I did all last summer!


Also, I did not contemplate attempting pulling the pan without removing the trans - that was one of the "other things I didnt think of off the top of my head". I've found that pulling the trans is really not that bad if you have an adequate supporting jack. Reinstallation was also surprisingly easy both times that I've done it. Pulling the whole front off of the engine and the truck, manuevering that big-ass engine in and out, and disconnecting all of the fuel and electrical is what I would like to avoid if it is at all possible.


Thanks for the well-wishes on the patch job!

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016, 04:40 PM
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The internet does not seem to share your belief. From what I've read "room temperature vulcanizing" silicone will harden or cure without a heat gun or other heat source, but a heat source does not really change it. If it did, it would have a hard time surviving on a hot 7.3!

So you're probably right that I wasted some time with the heat gun, but I don't believe I damaged it.
Nick is absolutely correct. Heat guns can and will change the curing process of RTV. And not for the better.

To understand this, one must first accept the fact that the CURING phase of RTV is different than the PERFORMANCE phase once the RTV has cured. Just because some RTVs can perform all day inside 600 degree F ovens doesn't mean that they can successfully cure under a heat gun, even if it was dialed down to blow at half that temperature.

Most RTV silicones are non catalyzed single part MOISTURE curing adhesives. They require moisture to cure, and begin curing upon exposure to ambient humidity. What does a heat gun do? The forced blowing of heated air removes moisture from the ambient air surrounding the bead of single part adhesive, and if anything, lengthens the cure time for as long as the heat gun is applied.

It is a mistake to judge the external skinning of a one component moisture curing adhesive with the actual curing of the entire bead of adhesive. Time and chemical reaction with ambient moisture are the necessary ingredients to cure and strengthen a single part moisture curing RTV. While curing can occur in a wide temperature range between minus 25 to plus 120 degrees, the products are ideally cured at room temperature, just like the name suggests.

Heat guns remove moisture from the localized air they blow upon, and that is an anathema to the concept of moisture curing. Hence, I wouldn't bother to use a heat gun to accelerate or "deepen" the cure of a bead of RTV. If anything, the use of the heat gun may prolong the actual curing time, and leave the efficacy of the sealant in doubt.

Following the instructions and best practices is great... but deciding to omit one instruction because it is difficult kind of defeats the purpose of following the rest of the instructions. In this case, deciding not follow the one instruction of turning the engine upside down to apply the recommended sealant and permit it to cure for at least 24 hours at room temperature... makes all of the other instructions that were dutifully followed a matter of close, but no cigar.

Last edited by NYB; 03-31-2016 at 04:44 PM.
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