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2001 7.3 Cranks slowly difficult starting

4K views 25 replies 10 participants last post by  DonWarkentin 
#1 ·
Replaced Batteries in November '18. Suddenly the starter just barely turns over the engine. Checked both batteries. Voltage 12.23 Volts across the terminals. I charged them to around 12.65 Volts. Still slow turning over but not starting. Jumped from my other truck and still slow but finally started. Runs great once started. Just a few weeks ago the engine was turning over amazingly and started within a few seconds. It's acting like the batteries are low but even jumping doesn't speed things up much. Also I have a parasitic drain happening because over night the batteries went from 12.65 to 12.43 and there is nothing on. The only other thing that has been happening is that when I try locking the vehicle it beeps twice like a door is ajar and sometimes the interior light takes a minute to shut off. I replaced the started 2 months ago. Could the new started have gone bad?
 
#2 ·
Test the alternator, and if that isn't it, then take the starter off and take it in to where you got it to have it tested and/or to get a new one under warranty.
 
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#4 ·
hey guys,

If it was me, before I pulled anything out I would thoroughly check the grounding. If you can't flow enough amps to your starter it will not spin at full capacity.

Just connect a 2 or 4 awg jumper cable from ground terminal and a good connection on block.

If the starting improves you know it's your ground wires.

Just a suggestion.
 
#6 ·
That would be great if this starter system had a ground. It has none. The ground is achieved through the bolt to the block. Only way for that not to work is loose or real dirty between the starter and block, even still the bolts would ground. I'd say loose is the only way to have a bad ground on your starter. BUT, a bad starter from the parts store has happened to me several times. These trucks need a ton of poop to turn over, and rebuilds don't cut it, and most parts store ones fail. GET THE GIANT DENSO STARTER
 
#5 ·
It does little good to take a diesel starter to a parts store to have it tested. They need to be load tested , most part stores all they can do is bench test. If you have good connection and batteries are up , then more then likely starter is bad if cranking slow. A diesel has to spin over a certain minimum RPM to start.
 
#7 ·
Here's what happened to me. I bought the rebuilt starter from the local parts store. It didn't work very well, and they couldn't test it; so they just gave me another one. Still didn't work very well; so back to the parts store for another warranty claim. After about three or four of them, none of which was any good, they gave me a new one, not rebuilt. That one has been working well so far. I didn't want to pay for the Denso starter right after I had just paid for the local auto parts starter, and at the moment, it is working for me. If you don't want the headache and you can afford it, just take the loss and buy the Denso.
 
#8 ·
My parts store supplies the Denso. So I took my new not working good starter back on warranty, and had them apply the price to the new denso instead, and I just paid the difference. Take it back, say it doesn't have enough torque and you want to exchange it for the Denso starter. Parts guys are pretty flexible, its a competitive business. Take note if you do go Denso. They are real big, barely fit in there. Some times, not always, you may have to grind off an 1/8th of an inch off the cross member to make the back bubble not rub. Its a tight fit, but what an improvement.
 
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#9 ·
Lucky me, I came on to ask for troubleshooting help and it looks like I have the same trouble as the OP. I'll jump in if it's okay....

2001 F-350 7.3L

Original starter.

The truck has been growing ever more reluctant to crank when starting cold. Same symptoms as weak batteries but batteries/alternator are fine (see below). When warm it cranks okay but not enthusiastically. Finally, this winter it got really bad and now won't crank. (Truck is seldom used in winter, normally started every two weeks and run up to normal operating temperatures, cranking getting more and more reluctant).

Batteries are 6 months old, alternator 2 years old, charging system tested fine with new batteries 6 months ago.

This morning's diagnostics:

• 36F temperature
• Trickle charger on batteries shows green
• LH battery voltage 12.72 RH 12.74
• Two start attempts, just a click, sound like starter engages (?), no crank at all
• LH 12.44V, RH 12.46V
• Plug in full size battery charger which immediately goes to "Fully Charged" on the needle
• Switch charger to 100 amp start mode, turn key ==> click only (starter engaged?), but no cranking at all.

Thoughts/recommendations?

Thanks in advance.
 
#10 ·
I had an issue like this, ended up being the main battery harness, goes between the batteries across the front of the truck and down to the starter. Corrosion was working it’s way up the cable from the lower end. Worth a look.
 
#11 ·
Battery harness looks good to me, thanks, Denso starter ordered.
 
#12 ·
If its clicking, its receiving the signal to go. So that wire is fine( the little one) If there is corrosion on the large post of the starter, this could cause just the click no turn. But most likely the starter is gone. Your going to laugh when you see how fast that denso spins your motor. I couldn't tell my old starter had gone bad the first time. Then I put the denso in , and holy crap, my old starter had half the rpm, and would slow down. This one blasts right away, and keeps accelerating! Major improvement.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Thanks much for all the responses. Oreilly's had the Ultima which I bought a few months ago. But they said I could upgrade to a Wilson starter or the OEM Motor craft. They don't have the Denso. I definitely don't want to go back to the Ultima. Between the Wilson and the OEM which would be best? Thx again
 
#15 · (Edited)
The difference in price at O'Reilly between the Ultima and the Motorcraft starter is over $460. That would be the additional cost to upgrade to Motorcraft starter. You could buy the exact same model of Motorcraft starter for less than that at Rockauto.com. So I would either go with the O'Reilly Wilson starter, which you could upgrade to for around an additional $100, or go with the Motorcraft from Rock Auto.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-new/sa903/4489731/2001/ford/f-350-super-duty

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/.../91295448n/4831211/2001/ford/f-350-super-duty

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...w/n712670a/4601711/2001/ford/f-350-super-duty

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...w/n713367a/4601726/2001/ford/f-350-super-duty

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...charged,1372542,electrical,starter+motor,4152
 
#14 ·
same thing

I have an '01 with 175k and the same thing was happening. Ran fine but I'd come out in the morning or after a few hours and it would act like the batteries were low. I took it to my trusted mechanic because I couldn't figure it out and he couldn't figure it out either. Batteries were good, it looked like the charging system was good, the starter was engaging (when it had enough power).

Anyways, after a couple frustrating weeks of intermittent fits where it wouldn't start and a half-dozen trips to the parts store it turned out to be the alternator.

I'm left believing that the equipment most parts stores have, and honestly most shops if they don't work on diesels often have a hard time testing diesel components. Long story short, mine was doing very similar things as what you're describing and on about the 7th alternator test at a parts store it showed a failed diode. Replaced the alternator and it's been good for about a month.

Best of luck.
 
#16 · (Edited)
#17 ·
I’ll hand crank it before I will spend that much money on a starter. ?
I'm sure as hell not going to hand crank mine. :winking: I had my arm in a sling once already and don't want to do that again. :nono:

What I did was go with a local rebuilder who provided a stock style starter (3 bolt) for about $170 IIRC. It made a world of difference in cranking speed between my original with 220K miles and 18 years on it and the rebuilt. Also important is to make sure the battery posts and clamps are nice and shiny before installing. It sometimes takes some pretty aggressive cleaning to get them that way.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Thanks all. Per the suggestions I slapped it in a Motorcraft starter. PITA putting that 8mm lock washer and nut on the post blind, but did it without dropping it. Thank God. Anyway fired up like a Boss and checked for the parasitic current draw on the inductive current clamp said less than 30 milliamps, so I'm golden. Apparently that Ultima starter was bad and causing the parasitic draw draining the batteries. Back in business. Thank you all again.
 
#19 ·
And I thank you all, too.

Got the Denso starter in after getting the OEM out (the blind bolt on top was a *****).

The 7.3 cranks now like it's been hit with 1.21 jigawatts. Problem appears to be WAY solved.
 
#20 ·
I put the starter in, spin it upside down, attach the cables, spin it back over and bolt it in. I didn't even attempt to put the cable on up on top like that. Just be sure your batteries are disconnected if you do it this way , in case you touch something on the spin over.

Above I noticed a discussion on Motorcraft starters being 400+ more than the other. I'm amazed. For once something is cheaper up here. The Motorcraft is 240 bucks, the denso is 280 bucks, life time warranty on both. I couldn't find a starter for over 300. lol. YEH! Finally Canada has a cheaper price on something.
 
#21 ·
Also, only the Ultima has lifetime warranty here. Both the Denso and Motorcraft have only one year warranty here.

I second your advice to don't forget to disconnect the batteries. I made that mistake and the wire arced to the transmission line to the cooler, and instantly burned a hole in it, and I had to replace the transmission fluid line to the cooler.
 
#22 · (Edited)
]Also, only the Ultima has lifetime warranty here. Both the Denso and Motorcraft have only one year warranty here.

That's odd. As far as I'm aware. There isn't an alternator or starter, in Canada, that doesn't have a life warranty. Its just industry standard up here. Even a re build has a life time warranty. I always look at the length of the warranty as the life of the product. If it says life time warranty, its built well, or if it isn't , at least they give you new ones free. IF it says 1yr warranty. Then I'd plan on buying a new one in a year, so I would not buy that product. 1 yr warranty is just a slap In the face, and means they don't stand behind there product. Whats funny is those 1yr warrantys are life time warrantys up here, at half the price for the same product.
 
#23 ·
I have found several parts suppliers have adopted a new business model.

They rely on cheaper (inferior) manufacturing practices and entice consumers with life-time warranties.

Ford USA only offers 2-year warranties yet they have some of the best replacement components offering greatest longevity. This has just been my personal experience.
 
#24 ·
Lifetime warranty doesn't mean that it will last a lifetime. It just means that they will replace the part whenever it fails. I had a motorcraft starter with one year warranty, and it lasted seven years. Now I have an ultima starter with lifetime warranty, and I plan to get a new one for no extra charge every time it fails as long as I own the truck. The first ultima starter lasted one year, and I got a new one for no extra charge when it failed. The price that you pay is not for one ultima starter. It is for as many ultima starters as it takes to last you as long as you own the vehicle, or get tired of changing them and give up and buy something more reliable.
 
#25 ·
A have a Napa one on my 99 . First one only lasted 6 months, goes out again soon it is getting a better one. The Life time warranty is nice, but does not help if you are in the middle of nowhere and brake down. And with an automatic there is no pull starting.

About half temped to carry a spare one with.
 
#26 ·
When my starter failed, I put in a Pep Boys starter with lifetime warranty. That one failed pretty quickly; so I asked my wife to let me use her truck to go to work, and I would get a replacement starter from Pep Boys and install it after I got off work. But while I was at work, her son convinced her that Pep Boys would never honor the warranty, and convinced her to have the truck towed to the Ford dealership without telling me to have a motorcraft starter with one year warranty installed. When I got home from work and found out what had happened, I went to the Ford dealership and asked to get the Pep Boys defective starter with lifetime warranty back so that I could exchange it for a new starter at Pep Boys and keep it as a spare so that whenever the motorcraft starter that they had installed wore out, I could go back to the Pep Boys lifetime warranty starter. But Ford told me that I would have to pay a $200 core charge if I wanted the Pep Boys defective starter back. So I didn't pay the $200 to Ford to get the Pep Boys defective starter back, and instead paid another around $200 for the Ultima lifetime warranty starter from O'Reilly's when the motorcraft starter failed after seven years.
 
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