7.3 long crank time - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-11-2014, 10:54 PM
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So you check the reservoir level before this long crank session and level is within half inch or so from top?
If this is the case you will need a scanner capable of streaming live data to see what's going on.
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2014, 09:14 AM
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I have the same problem with my 1999.5 F350. It started with longer crank times. Then check engine light comes on during start up and takes few minutes to go out. During this time engine idles little rough. Which is few seconds. The engine surges a second or two and check engine light goes out. Truck idles ok for that period of time of use. The truck will act this way every time i restart. This is in warmer temps. Sometimes it starts right up with no hesitation. Now with cooler morning temps of 50 degrees the truck starts on the first crank. No check engine light or rough ildes. But later in the day as it gets warmer it acts up again.
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2014, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluejoe View Post
I have the same problem with my 1999.5 F350. It started with longer crank times. Then check engine light comes on during start up and takes few minutes to go out. During this time engine idles little rough. Which is few seconds. The engine surges a second or two and check engine light goes out. Truck idles ok for that period of time of use. The truck will act this way every time i restart. This is in warmer temps. Sometimes it starts right up with no hesitation. Now with cooler morning temps of 50 degrees the truck starts on the first crank. No check engine light or rough ildes. But later in the day as it gets warmer it acts up again.
Pulling the codes is always a good first start, but there are some quick checks you can do without a scan tool.

Pull the wiring connector off the ICP sensor (on the driver's side head right behind the alternator). If there's oil in the sensor it needs to be replaced. Try starting it and see if it starts and runs better. That's another sign that the ICP sensor is bad. The check engine light will stay on with the wires disconnected, but that's normal. If replacing the ICP sensor doesn't fix it you should get it scanned. You may have an issue with the IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator).

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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2014, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluejoe View Post
I have the same problem with my 1999.5 F350. It started with longer crank times. Then check engine light comes on during start up and takes few minutes to go out. During this time engine idles little rough. Which is few seconds. The engine surges a second or two and check engine light goes out. Truck idles ok for that period of time of use. The truck will act this way every time i restart. This is in warmer temps. Sometimes it starts right up with no hesitation. Now with cooler morning temps of 50 degrees the truck starts on the first crank. No check engine light or rough ildes. But later in the day as it gets warmer it acts up again.
Try what Kl has said first if it persists and you have a chip in remove it and try to start, see what happens then.
If all that fails get to a scanner that's capable of reading powerstrokes .


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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 01:19 PM
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Hey everyone I have a 2002 f350 7.3. I had the problem where I had to plug in my truck 1hr before starting it in the summer to get it rolling. Everyone told me it could be your glow plugs or the injectors, high pressure oil pump. I was ready to scrap it because I couldn't afford to spend that kind of money. I did some research replacing the glow plug relay, the previous owner had 15-40 oil so I put in 5-40 synthetic in. And paid 70 bucks for a cam position sensor 10min fix started right away and purred like a kitten. No more rough idle and that sound of poor fuel distribution.
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post #21 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 08:50 PM
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@Whitezombie,
Yes the Glow Plug Relay (GPR) has a high failure rate like you experienced.

If it happens to you again then you might want to do what many of us have done and replace with a “larger” Stancor (White-Rogers) GPR.

You can buy one at Diesel O-rings:

http://www.dieselorings.com/16-009-w...lug-relay.html

If your 7.3 would start after being plugged in then your CPS was probably still “good” so you might want to keep it as a spare in your glove box with a 10-mm wrench.


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Last edited by ArcticDriver; 04-29-2019 at 08:53 PM.
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