Battery light on, batteries and alternator good - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Battery light on, batteries and alternator good

Hey guys-

When it rains, it pours. Just about to take my truck in for a bunch of odds and ends getting repaired, and the battery light is now on most of the time when I'm not on the gas pedal. Probably about 60% of the time today.

Had the batteries and alternator checked once off the truck, and twice on the truck, tested good. Cleaned all my battery posts, and the ground straps. I'm going to check tomorrow for loose connections, but what else should I be looking at?

The truck starts fine, batteries read great, no power loss. I'm friggin stumped.

I did have a CEL on for problem with the EBPV sensor circuit. I have noticed that after replacing the tube (was broken in half) and the sensor, the EBPV doesn't seem to hold when warming up. It sort of closes, so I hear the whoosh, and then there's a small squeak and it stops, and then it repeats over and over. Any relation?

Jerry


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2000 Excursion 7.3L PSD 4X4
DP-Tuner F5 : no start, stock, 40T, Decel, 80T, 80E - AutoMeter A pillar w/ 3 Phantom gauges - DIY Tymar intake w/ S&B conical filter - Zoodad mod - Suncoast Extreme Duty Trans rebuild w/ TransGo Shift kit, Amsoil synthetic ATF & Magnefine inline filer - BD Triple Disc Billet Torque Converter - 4" Stainless Steel Turbo Back (4" down pipe) Magnaflow exhaust - ATS Turbo housing and 4" intake sleeve - Turbo Master Wastegate Controller - HX Oil Crossover - Morse Ceramic brake pads - Monroe Reflex Shocks - Energy Suspension Bushings - IC foil wrap delete - Fumoto Oil Valve - 08' Aluminum Rear Differential Cover - White Night reverse light system - Garmin StreetPilot c340 GPS - 6.o tranny cooler - Dieselsite Coolant Filter w/ CAT ELC coolant - Amsoil Single Bypass Oil Filter w/ Rotella 5W40 synthetic oil - APC white gauge cluster face - Dual in-dash DVD w/ Infinity Reference speakers & Blaupunkt 200A powered sub - 4.5" LED marker/turn lights in front bumper - ViAir HD onboard air system w/ 380C compressor, 2.5 gal tank & Grover stutter tone air horn - FireStone RideRite suspension air bags -


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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 08:20 PM
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You need to stop trusting those free checks and get you a volt meter gauge so you can watch what's going on. Wally world has a nice one that plugs into your cigarette lighter that works very well. Made by innova and it matches readings on my AE.

I had a similar issue with an Autozoo alternator the last time I swapped it out. Light started coming back on within a couple of days. Voltage was fair. The alternator was charging and not dropping too low, but it wasn't putting out the 14+ volts I like to see while running. Had that tested at Autozoo 4 times and it kept passing. I finally told them I wanted a new one since the voltage was a tad low and I didn't want my dash light to keep coming on. They agreed and the one I have now charges at 14.2 so me and my dash light are happy again.

Chris
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by F350_6 View Post
You need to stop trusting those free checks and get you a volt meter gauge so you can watch what's going on. Wally world has a nice one that plugs into your cigarette lighter that works very well. Made by innova and it matches readings on my AE.

I had a similar issue with an Autozoo alternator the last time I swapped it out. Light started coming back on within a couple of days. Voltage was fair. The alternator was charging and not dropping too low, but it wasn't putting out the 14+ volts I like to see while running. Had that tested at Autozoo 4 times and it kept passing. I finally told them I wanted a new one since the voltage was a tad low and I didn't want my dash light to keep coming on. They agreed and the one I have now charges at 14.2 so me and my dash light are happy again.
I do have a multi meter that allows me to check voltage. I'll hook that up tomorrow and see what it says. The battery light hasn't gone on as constantly until today, so I'll check it tomorrow. Hopefully that's all it is...

I do know it was reading about 14.2 at the batteries when I checked it last time, but the battery light was never on, or lfickering, when I ran those tests...

Jerry


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2000 Excursion 7.3L PSD 4X4
DP-Tuner F5 : no start, stock, 40T, Decel, 80T, 80E - AutoMeter A pillar w/ 3 Phantom gauges - DIY Tymar intake w/ S&B conical filter - Zoodad mod - Suncoast Extreme Duty Trans rebuild w/ TransGo Shift kit, Amsoil synthetic ATF & Magnefine inline filer - BD Triple Disc Billet Torque Converter - 4" Stainless Steel Turbo Back (4" down pipe) Magnaflow exhaust - ATS Turbo housing and 4" intake sleeve - Turbo Master Wastegate Controller - HX Oil Crossover - Morse Ceramic brake pads - Monroe Reflex Shocks - Energy Suspension Bushings - IC foil wrap delete - Fumoto Oil Valve - 08' Aluminum Rear Differential Cover - White Night reverse light system - Garmin StreetPilot c340 GPS - 6.o tranny cooler - Dieselsite Coolant Filter w/ CAT ELC coolant - Amsoil Single Bypass Oil Filter w/ Rotella 5W40 synthetic oil - APC white gauge cluster face - Dual in-dash DVD w/ Infinity Reference speakers & Blaupunkt 200A powered sub - 4.5" LED marker/turn lights in front bumper - ViAir HD onboard air system w/ 380C compressor, 2.5 gal tank & Grover stutter tone air horn - FireStone RideRite suspension air bags -


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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-25-2011, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Just an update : I did get NAPA to replace my alternator. My truck is @ the mechanics now for other issues, so he's gonna swap them out, and hopefully that cures this problem. I'll post back after I get the truck back.

Jerry


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2000 Excursion 7.3L PSD 4X4
DP-Tuner F5 : no start, stock, 40T, Decel, 80T, 80E - AutoMeter A pillar w/ 3 Phantom gauges - DIY Tymar intake w/ S&B conical filter - Zoodad mod - Suncoast Extreme Duty Trans rebuild w/ TransGo Shift kit, Amsoil synthetic ATF & Magnefine inline filer - BD Triple Disc Billet Torque Converter - 4" Stainless Steel Turbo Back (4" down pipe) Magnaflow exhaust - ATS Turbo housing and 4" intake sleeve - Turbo Master Wastegate Controller - HX Oil Crossover - Morse Ceramic brake pads - Monroe Reflex Shocks - Energy Suspension Bushings - IC foil wrap delete - Fumoto Oil Valve - 08' Aluminum Rear Differential Cover - White Night reverse light system - Garmin StreetPilot c340 GPS - 6.o tranny cooler - Dieselsite Coolant Filter w/ CAT ELC coolant - Amsoil Single Bypass Oil Filter w/ Rotella 5W40 synthetic oil - APC white gauge cluster face - Dual in-dash DVD w/ Infinity Reference speakers & Blaupunkt 200A powered sub - 4.5" LED marker/turn lights in front bumper - ViAir HD onboard air system w/ 380C compressor, 2.5 gal tank & Grover stutter tone air horn - FireStone RideRite suspension air bags -


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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 02:22 AM
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hope it fixes your issue. I have read that even though you get a new alternator; there are known issues with some that cause this problem with the battery light.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 05:03 AM
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did you check the bats when they are disconnected from each other, if not one good battery will make the bad one read good.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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did you check the bats when they are disconnected from each other, if not one good battery will make the bad one read good.
Yea, I had them tested off the truck separately first.

INFRNL - Do you mean issues with the alternators, or with the truck?

Jerry


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2000 Excursion 7.3L PSD 4X4
DP-Tuner F5 : no start, stock, 40T, Decel, 80T, 80E - AutoMeter A pillar w/ 3 Phantom gauges - DIY Tymar intake w/ S&B conical filter - Zoodad mod - Suncoast Extreme Duty Trans rebuild w/ TransGo Shift kit, Amsoil synthetic ATF & Magnefine inline filer - BD Triple Disc Billet Torque Converter - 4" Stainless Steel Turbo Back (4" down pipe) Magnaflow exhaust - ATS Turbo housing and 4" intake sleeve - Turbo Master Wastegate Controller - HX Oil Crossover - Morse Ceramic brake pads - Monroe Reflex Shocks - Energy Suspension Bushings - IC foil wrap delete - Fumoto Oil Valve - 08' Aluminum Rear Differential Cover - White Night reverse light system - Garmin StreetPilot c340 GPS - 6.o tranny cooler - Dieselsite Coolant Filter w/ CAT ELC coolant - Amsoil Single Bypass Oil Filter w/ Rotella 5W40 synthetic oil - APC white gauge cluster face - Dual in-dash DVD w/ Infinity Reference speakers & Blaupunkt 200A powered sub - 4.5" LED marker/turn lights in front bumper - ViAir HD onboard air system w/ 380C compressor, 2.5 gal tank & Grover stutter tone air horn - FireStone RideRite suspension air bags -


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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 07:53 PM
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ditroidfd, Look under the hood @ the main fuse panel by the Brake Booster. There are 2 fuses, I forget the number, should be in your Owners Manual. They have something to do with the Field Current from your Alternators. One or Both may be blown.
I had this happen to my old Ford & after I changed the Alternator the light would still not go out until I replaced the fuses. hope this helps.


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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 10:40 PM
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Yea, I had them tested off the truck separately first.

INFRNL - Do you mean issues with the alternators, or with the truck?
I was talking about certain alternators having issues causing the light to come on or remain on. You said you got your from napa though right? theoretically if you did, it should be fine. I do not recall where I read it but there are some forums/thread that talk about some new starters causing issues as you have discribed. maybe do a search on google and see if anything pertains to your immediate issue.

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PHP/Beans tuned/250/100 FF inj's, BTS Tranny, Strictly Diesel complete fuel system with RR & FB delete, Pius LASB from Irate, Swamps HVHF IDM.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-31-2011, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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Reg, I'll check that too, thanks!

Jerry


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2000 Excursion 7.3L PSD 4X4
DP-Tuner F5 : no start, stock, 40T, Decel, 80T, 80E - AutoMeter A pillar w/ 3 Phantom gauges - DIY Tymar intake w/ S&B conical filter - Zoodad mod - Suncoast Extreme Duty Trans rebuild w/ TransGo Shift kit, Amsoil synthetic ATF & Magnefine inline filer - BD Triple Disc Billet Torque Converter - 4" Stainless Steel Turbo Back (4" down pipe) Magnaflow exhaust - ATS Turbo housing and 4" intake sleeve - Turbo Master Wastegate Controller - HX Oil Crossover - Morse Ceramic brake pads - Monroe Reflex Shocks - Energy Suspension Bushings - IC foil wrap delete - Fumoto Oil Valve - 08' Aluminum Rear Differential Cover - White Night reverse light system - Garmin StreetPilot c340 GPS - 6.o tranny cooler - Dieselsite Coolant Filter w/ CAT ELC coolant - Amsoil Single Bypass Oil Filter w/ Rotella 5W40 synthetic oil - APC white gauge cluster face - Dual in-dash DVD w/ Infinity Reference speakers & Blaupunkt 200A powered sub - 4.5" LED marker/turn lights in front bumper - ViAir HD onboard air system w/ 380C compressor, 2.5 gal tank & Grover stutter tone air horn - FireStone RideRite suspension air bags -


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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2011, 08:19 AM
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an you tell me what you found? I am having a very similar problem.

Thanks

I have a 2001 Ford Excursion with a 7.3L diesel with an alternator (charging system light) that doesn’t seem to make sense.

As of today, I have two good batteries, tested and verified with a Midtronic POWER LOGIC. They are both motor craft batteries only 2.5 years old. About 2 weeks ago, my alternator died and I had it tested and the regulator was replaced. It was bench tested to verify the fix and I re-installed it. I also have the Midtronic handheld system analyzer. Which I used to verify the function of the newly repaired alternator. The tester indicated the diode ripple is good and the charging system is normal.

Alternatively, I have put a meter on the batteries (both independently) and found the voltage to b e14.2 or so when there are no loads applied. When loads are applied, the voltage is 13.6 or so.

Seems like the system is working fine but the light is still on.

I have also verified I have 12Volts present at the orange and blue wire at the two wire alternator connector.

Any ideas what to check next?

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2011, 11:28 AM
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The circuit that controls the light is in the alternator itself. I had a rebuilt alt the worked well producing a good 14.5v, however, the light would not extinguish. Replaced the alternator and all was good.

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 02:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reg Reich View Post
ditroidfd, Look under the hood @ the main fuse panel by the Brake Booster. There are 2 fuses, I forget the number, should be in your Owners Manual. They have something to do with the Field Current from your Alternators. One or Both may be blown.
I had this happen to my old Ford & after I changed the Alternator the light would still not go out until I replaced the fuses. hope this helps.
Fuse number 6 and 7, a 5 amp and a 10 amp. I am having similar issues and will be taking a look at mine tomorrow

Ol' Red
2001 7.3l F250 CCSB, 8 inch lift, Custom drive shafts, 37" Toyo Open Country, Air Bags, On board compressor, 20" kmc xd revolver rims, 4 inch down pipe to 5 inch tip, Garrett GTP38r turbo, AFE stage 2 intake, 160cc injectors, FASS fuel pump, Pillar gauges. tugger shift kit by transgo, Built tranny, DP tuner f5 chip live tuned with 5 positions, deep tranny pan with cooling fins and auxilary filter, and the list goes on!
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-07-2018, 01:15 PM
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I'm having same problem, I have new batteries, alternator. Now showing charging 18 volts and battery light on when accelerating. When let off gas volts go down to normal and battery light goes off. Any ideas on my problem. Alt checked ok at autozone.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-07-2018, 01:23 PM
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If the alternator is truly charging at 18 volts, then by definition, it is NOT "ok", regardless of what Autozone claims.
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