The Diesel Stop banner

Bleeding oil

2K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  Andrew G 
#1 ·
Hello everyone,

Proud owner of a 99 7.3 w/127K. Stock except for boost gauge. Recently was on a trip cruising around 70mph roughly 2100RPM(give or take) and noticed in the rear view lots of smoke. The color had a slight blue tint to it. I immediately pulled over and shut the engine off. By the time I got out and over to the hood I looked down and there was a puddle of oil and growing. I lifted the hood and the bay was covered... soaked actually. Towed it home. This was over the weekend. Today I had some time to take a look. With oil every where it was difficult to tell where it was leaking. I cleaned up with de greaser the best i could. The motor had some oil left in it and i added a bit as well. I turned it over to see if i could see any oil leaking and sure enough its coming from the High Pressure Oil Pump line. This line runs from the passenger side of the block to the lower part of the pump on the driver side. I can see exactly where on the steel braided line the oil is just shooting out. So what do I have a head of me? I am mechanically inclined and not a stranger to repairs . I have watched a few videos of guys removing the intake horn and getting at it. Also, what do I need to order? Just the hose? do the fittings on the block and pump need to be replaced? If anyone has done this repair i would appreciate your input.
 
#2 · (Edited)
99% of the time, the leak is an o-ring on one of the quick connect fittings. You need the special disconnect tool and new o-rings. I’d recommend doing them all while you’re there.

2 of these- https://www.dieselorings.com/1999-2...28-cylinder-head-hose-fitting-repair-kit.html

2 of these- https://www.dieselorings.com/1999-2...quick-disconnect-hose-fitting-repair-kit.html

And this- https://www.dieselorings.com/1999-2...re-oil-pump/hpop-hose-quick-release-tool.html

If it really is the line, consider getting the upgraded hoses from CNC fab that eliminates the quick connects.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the reply. I guess I fall into the 1% category because I can clearly see the oil shooting out of the line. I can run my finger across/down it where the oil is coming from and feel a bur or abrasion. So I still need a tool to remove the old line.... so what about the new line? Does that utilize the quick connect you refer too?
 
#4 ·
#5 ·
Yes, I have done this repair. My input is that you should do it exactly the way that RT is recommending.
 
#6 ·
Another vote for the CNCfab lines. Easy to install and eliminates the quick connect fittings, so you avoid another possible spot for a leak. Also, their customer service is phenomenal.

I probably would have installed them simply because they're cheaper than stock, but when I went to remove the old factory lines one of the rubber spacers that the tool pushes against was broken up and wouldn't allow me to use the quick disconnect. I wound up having to unscrew the fitting from the HPOP with the line still connected to it.
 
#7 ·
Update 7/15

UPDATE:

Got the new lines, o rings, and tool. I got the old lines off. My question now is with these new JIC plugs from CNCFAB - the fittings that go into the pump is where I am at a stop. I removed the old OEM plugs and spring. I am attempting to install the JIC fitting into the pump. I can get the JIC fitting in about 2 1/2 turns with my fingers then it gets tight.This is on the bottom plug of the pump going to passenger side of the block.Did i cross thread? or is this normal to start using the wrench at this point?
 
#8 ·
I don't recall having to force them at all. Call Cory at CNC fab. He's usually readily available to take your call and answer your questions. You could try screwing your old fitting back in to make sure the threads are ok.
 
#9 ·
I think I had to use a wrench on mine, but I don't remember how far down I had gotten first. I do automotive work everyday, so I have a good feel for when a fitting might snap. If you're not comfortable with that, I would do what RT suggested and run the old connector back in to make sure the threads are good, and take a good look at the threads on the new fitting as well.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top