Bleeding oil - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Bleeding oil

Hello everyone,

Proud owner of a 99 7.3 w/127K. Stock except for boost gauge. Recently was on a trip cruising around 70mph roughly 2100RPM(give or take) and noticed in the rear view lots of smoke. The color had a slight blue tint to it. I immediately pulled over and shut the engine off. By the time I got out and over to the hood I looked down and there was a puddle of oil and growing. I lifted the hood and the bay was covered... soaked actually. Towed it home. This was over the weekend. Today I had some time to take a look. With oil every where it was difficult to tell where it was leaking. I cleaned up with de greaser the best i could. The motor had some oil left in it and i added a bit as well. I turned it over to see if i could see any oil leaking and sure enough its coming from the High Pressure Oil Pump line. This line runs from the passenger side of the block to the lower part of the pump on the driver side. I can see exactly where on the steel braided line the oil is just shooting out. So what do I have a head of me? I am mechanically inclined and not a stranger to repairs . I have watched a few videos of guys removing the intake horn and getting at it. Also, what do I need to order? Just the hose? do the fittings on the block and pump need to be replaced? If anyone has done this repair i would appreciate your input.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 09:47 PM
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Bleeding oil

99% of the time, the leak is an o-ring on one of the quick connect fittings. You need the special disconnect tool and new o-rings. I’d recommend doing them all while you’re there.

2 of these- https://www.dieselorings.com/1999-20...epair-kit.html

2 of these- https://www.dieselorings.com/1999-20...epair-kit.html

And this- https://www.dieselorings.com/1999-20...ease-tool.html

If it really is the line, consider getting the upgraded hoses from CNC fab that eliminates the quick connects.

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2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM, Full Force Stage 1 injectors

IF MY BODY IS EVER FOUND ON A JOGGING TRAIL JUST KNOW THAT I WAS MURDERED SOMEWHERE ELSE AND DUMPED THERE

Last edited by RT; 07-08-2019 at 09:49 PM.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 06:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. I guess I fall into the 1% category because I can clearly see the oil shooting out of the line. I can run my finger across/down it where the oil is coming from and feel a bur or abrasion. So I still need a tool to remove the old line.... so what about the new line? Does that utilize the quick connect you refer too?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 07:40 AM
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Bleeding oil

If you get the stock lines, you still need the tool to remove the old ones. Then, they click back into place. I think I would still get the fittings rebuilt.
If you go with the CNC setup, you’ll still need the special tool to remove the old lines, but you won’t ever need it again.

https://cncfab.us/i-30497597-cnc-fab...oplinekit.html


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2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM, Full Force Stage 1 injectors

IF MY BODY IS EVER FOUND ON A JOGGING TRAIL JUST KNOW THAT I WAS MURDERED SOMEWHERE ELSE AND DUMPED THERE
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSi90 View Post
Hello everyone,

Proud owner of a 99 7.3 w/127K. Stock except for boost gauge. Recently was on a trip cruising around 70mph roughly 2100RPM(give or take) and noticed in the rear view lots of smoke. The color had a slight blue tint to it. I immediately pulled over and shut the engine off. By the time I got out and over to the hood I looked down and there was a puddle of oil and growing. I lifted the hood and the bay was covered... soaked actually. Towed it home. This was over the weekend. Today I had some time to take a look. With oil every where it was difficult to tell where it was leaking. I cleaned up with de greaser the best i could. The motor had some oil left in it and i added a bit as well. I turned it over to see if i could see any oil leaking and sure enough its coming from the High Pressure Oil Pump line. This line runs from the passenger side of the block to the lower part of the pump on the driver side. I can see exactly where on the steel braided line the oil is just shooting out. So what do I have a head of me? I am mechanically inclined and not a stranger to repairs . I have watched a few videos of guys removing the intake horn and getting at it. Also, what do I need to order? Just the hose? do the fittings on the block and pump need to be replaced? If anyone has done this repair i would appreciate your input.
Yes, I have done this repair. My input is that you should do it exactly the way that RT is recommending.

2001 F350 XLT 4X4 crew cab, dual rear wheels, long bed, black, 7.3l turbo diesel, automatic transmission, 4.10, shift on the fly, running boards, sliding rear window, 38 gal fuel tank, Odyssey extreme 65-PC1750T batteries, Michelin LTX-MS2 rear tires, Sumitomo Encounter front tires, Shell Rotella Ultra elc, 11,500 gvwr, 20,000 gcwr, 7500 gvw, completely stock, 114,000 miles when purchased, now has 250,000 miles, repairs so far: two starters, batteries, cps, brakes, tires, alternator, ball joints, locking hub, wheel hub, AC compressor, serpentine belt, power steering pump, driver's side window, ignition switch, o-ring, Spectra premium radiator, water pump, fan clutch, fan blades, thermostat, thermostat housing, tensioner. Stolen twice so far, but recovered both times with major damage.

2005 Nomad Rampage toyhauler made by Skyline. 11,500lb gvwr.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 08:51 PM
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Another vote for the CNCfab lines. Easy to install and eliminates the quick connect fittings, so you avoid another possible spot for a leak. Also, their customer service is phenomenal.

I probably would have installed them simply because they're cheaper than stock, but when I went to remove the old factory lines one of the rubber spacers that the tool pushes against was broken up and wouldn't allow me to use the quick disconnect. I wound up having to unscrew the fitting from the HPOP with the line still connected to it.

99.5 F250 7.3 PSD Supercab Shortbed 4x4 on 315 75 16s
Front leveling springs, Hutch and Harpoon mods, A pillar 3 gauge pod with DiPricol Trans, Boost and EGT, Scangauge II, CNC Fab HPOP and HPX lines, Riffraff FRX, 2004 Heated and Lighted mirrors
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Today, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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Update 7/15

UPDATE:

Got the new lines, o rings, and tool. I got the old lines off. My question now is with these new JIC plugs from CNCFAB - the fittings that go into the pump is where I am at a stop. I removed the old OEM plugs and spring. I am attempting to install the JIC fitting into the pump. I can get the JIC fitting in about 2 1/2 turns with my fingers then it gets tight.This is on the bottom plug of the pump going to passenger side of the block.Did i cross thread? or is this normal to start using the wrench at this point?
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Today, 04:02 PM
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I don't recall having to force them at all. Call Cory at CNC fab. He's usually readily available to take your call and answer your questions. You could try screwing your old fitting back in to make sure the threads are ok.

2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM, Full Force Stage 1 injectors

IF MY BODY IS EVER FOUND ON A JOGGING TRAIL JUST KNOW THAT I WAS MURDERED SOMEWHERE ELSE AND DUMPED THERE
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