Changing coolant - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

 2Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-03-2015, 12:12 PM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
ArcticDriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 3,523
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegreenmachine View Post
...however it stalls after warm up while driving or idling it will stall again after 120 seconds over and over now from what I understand glow plug relay runs about 120 seconds. I did this once before wont start when its cold rough idle once its starts.

I may not be reading your post correctly but if it runs good and then stalls after it is warmed up then it is not a GP or GPR issue.

Also, if it starts good and runs good for the first 120 seconds and then stalls then it is not a GP or GPR issue.

Good luck getting it sorted.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

Last edited by ArcticDriver; 12-04-2015 at 04:45 AM.
ArcticDriver is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-04-2015, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
thegreenmachine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Paola, KS
Posts: 78
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I just read my post some how I erased some of it. ok at start up 30 degrees outside but plugged in because of no antifreeze in the truck, just straight water (so I don't know about full cold start), truck will start then cough fart smoke for the first minute or so then it will run normal until its completely warmed up once completely warmed up then it will die. I cycle the switch to off it fires right up then a minute and 20 seconds later it dies. cycle switch it fires up runs exactly 1 minute 20 seconds dies. its a pain to try and drive the truck. once the truck warms completely up it dies every 120 seconds, but until it is warmed up runs normal except for the first minute or so. my truck at idle takes about .5 hr to warm completely up. full disclosure I just did injector cups, injectors, turbo, reseal hpop, and today I replaced the water pump and thermostat. ill finish those in the morning so.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticDriver View Post
I may not be reading your post correctly but if it runs good and then stalls after it is warmed up then it is not a GP or GPR issue.

Also, if it starts good and runs good for the first 120 seconds and then stalls then it is not a GP or GPR issue.

Good luck getting it sorted.

99 F350 4x4 7.3L auto trans, crewcab, dana 60 front end, ford 10.5 rear end
MODS riffraff FRX/ hutch mod to tank/ high flow banjos/ stock tires/ 325,000 miles
thegreenmachine is offline  
post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 07:45 AM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
ArcticDriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 3,523
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegreenmachine View Post
...truck will start then cough fart smoke for the first minute or so then it will run normal until its completely warmed up
This cough, fart, smoke could be GP related or something else.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thegreenmachine View Post
...it will run normal until its completely warmed up once completely warmed up then it will die. I cycle the switch to off it fires right up then a minute and 20 seconds later it dies.
The GP system only operates when EOT is below 130* (thank you Mr Hanson) so this description is the result of something else. Some of the more experienced guys should be along shortly

Quote:
Originally Posted by thegreenmachine View Post
I cycle the switch to off it fires right up then a minute and 20 seconds later it dies. cycle switch it fires up runs exactly 1 minute 20 seconds dies. its a pain to try and drive the truck.
And hell on your batteries and starter...and nerves!

Quote:
Originally Posted by thegreenmachine View Post
my truck at idle takes about .5 hr to warm completely up. full disclosure I just did injector cups, injectors, turbo, reseal hpop, and today I replaced the water pump and thermostat.
I am not sure your situation but if your needs require you to idle alot then there are a couple of options available which will bump up your idle RPM to 1100-1300. A common concensus is its not healthy for our engines to idle at <800 RPMs for extended periods.

Just out of curiousity, what brand of t-stat did you install? Happen to still have the part number laying around?


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
ArcticDriver is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 08:07 AM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
ArcticDriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 3,523
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I see you have started a new thread and are getting some good assistance.

Good luck getting it sorted.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
ArcticDriver is offline  
post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
thegreenmachine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Paola, KS
Posts: 78
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
@ArcticDriver wait don't bale on me yet I still have more coolant questions how clean should this coolant be I used the the flush kit from napa (blew my mind that kit was only 2.56 you cant buy a new hose clamp for that) anyway flushed it for an hour maybe even 2 but got it very clear then 2 distilled flushes then the ford iron cleaner 28 bucks a quart cleaner and I flushed it once after that but its not clear. now I cant pull those 2 engine plugs they are rusted out nothing to grip it. so my best guess is I'm only getting to drain 6 gallons not the full drain. should I keep going with distilled water or call it good. I'm not even gonna lie I started this on September 5th this year I haven't worked and I had 8000.00 bucks saved up about 4000.00 went to truck and the rest living on. now I'm tapped out I mean I can go get more distilled water but how much will that improve my water. also ive seen what the wrong coolant can do when I pulled my injectors the steel tips were pitted I'm guess that's from the wrong coolant. my wife told me last night that's it she has ben very patient with me I should have just bought a new truck. anyways what is your thought on the coolant. very clear a little merky. I almost want to flush with hose again then flush with distilled twice more then fill with my super fleet charge. I need to finish this today and get back to why it stalls afterwarm up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticDriver View Post
I see you have started a new thread and are getting some good assistance.

Good luck getting it sorted.

99 F350 4x4 7.3L auto trans, crewcab, dana 60 front end, ford 10.5 rear end
MODS riffraff FRX/ hutch mod to tank/ high flow banjos/ stock tires/ 325,000 miles
thegreenmachine is offline  
post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 11:56 AM
RT
Lifetime Supporting Member
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
RT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 14,176
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Pull the thermostat and then run the flush kit for a while. The thermostat is limiting the fluid flow through the block.

2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM, Full Force Stage 1 injectors

IF MY BODY IS EVER FOUND ON A JOGGING TRAIL JUST KNOW THAT I WAS MURDERED SOMEWHERE ELSE AND DUMPED THERE
RT is offline  
post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 12:06 PM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
ArcticDriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 3,523
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegreenmachine View Post
@ArcticDriver wait don't bale on me yet I still have more coolant questions how clean should this coolant be I used the the flush kit from napa (blew my mind that kit was only 2.56 you cant buy a new hose clamp for that) anyway flushed it for an hour maybe even 2 but got it very clear then 2 distilled flushes then the ford iron cleaner 28 bucks a quart cleaner and I flushed it once after that but its not clear. now I cant pull those 2 engine plugs they are rusted out nothing to grip it. so my best guess is I'm only getting to drain 6 gallons not the full drain. should I keep going with distilled water or call it good. I'm not even gonna lie I started this on September 5th this year I haven't worked and I had 8000.00 bucks saved up about 4000.00 went to truck and the rest living on. now I'm tapped out I mean I can go get more distilled water but how much will that improve my water. also ive seen what the wrong coolant can do when I pulled my injectors the steel tips were pitted I'm guess that's from the wrong coolant. my wife told me last night that's it she has ben very patient with me I should have just bought a new truck. anyways what is your thought on the coolant. very clear a little merky. I almost want to flush with hose again then flush with distilled twice more then fill with my super fleet charge.
Looks like RT has some good advice.

Most grocery stores nowadays have a water purification machine and a gallon refill only costs like 40 cents instead of a $1 or more for a new gallon (even at WalMart). That might save you a few bucks.

As for a new truck, man, I think that is a big chunk of money. Once you get these couple issues sorted out then you will be free and clear and not paying $500/month car payments and high insurance.

Hang in there


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

Last edited by ArcticDriver; 12-06-2015 at 12:08 PM.
ArcticDriver is offline  
post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 06:22 PM
Senior Member
 
Nyghtryderz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Ramsay, MT
Posts: 457
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Yea I would pull the t stat so you can get a good flush otherwise you have to wait til it is warmed up enough for the t stat to open to allow a full fluid flush and the water will get nice and clear. I got distiller for .88c at Walmart and it's fine if you can't get the block plugs out as you will have the fluid flushed and or diluted to the point that it is basically all water in there. You can flush 99% with hose water to get it clean then flush that out with distiller and then add 4 gallons of concentrate and hopefully we can get your other issue fixed so you don't waste money and buy a new truck. Good luck

2015 F-350 lariat Crew Cab SRW LB 4x4
6,000 miles
5000K 55W HID headlights
5000K 55W HID fog lights
6000K 50" LED light bar

2001 Ford F-250 Diesel 4x4 XLT Super Duty
DP Tuner AIS intake
6" Lift with Bilstein shocks
38" Toyo Open Country M/T
5000K 55W dual HID headlights
5000K 55W HID Foglights
6000K 50" LED light bar 48,000 Lumens
Prodigy P3 Brake Controller
Warn Premium Hubs
160,000 miles

Tow four horse gooseneck with living quarters
flatbed hay hauler
Nyghtryderz is offline  
post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
thegreenmachine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Paola, KS
Posts: 78
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
ok flushed with my new pink fleet charge fluid no leaks happy about that I flushed without stat yesterday for 2 hours dam near anyway with garden hose and t flush kit. I then flushed with ford liquid gold at 28 bucks a quart, then flushed a total of 32 gallons of distilled water then put my coolant in, so that's done. coolant was just a bit merky when I put coolant in but I was satisfied cleaner was all gone that was twice the flushing recommended. now stalling as soon as it warmed up sure enough it stalled @RT I pulled the exb p apart blew air threw tube put back together still died. so I just started unplugging stuff till I got some sort of result ICP seems to be the one. with icp plugged in it dies, I noticed something else at a rev when I let off the rev the rpm will drop down well below the norm then gradually come back up to norm. with ICP unplugged it does not stall and when I let off a rev it does not drop below normal rpm. this ICP sensor is from Oreillys has a one year warranty I bet its a year and a month old. I need thoughts on this I really don't have the money to buy a new one maybe its still under warranty ill look for receipt after posting this. like I said I did not replace the pigtail on this my wires look good tho. however there is a little white plastic insert that fits in between the pigtail and sensor mine is gone but I need to test this sensor does anyone know how to test, what ohms should be or how do you test this sensor. I'm comfortable in saying this is the problem what I don't know is do all these sensors work in conjunction with each other or do they each do a specific job I replaced the IPR at the same time about a year ago. I need to test it. in other words could it be another sensor and by me unplugging the ICP I'm just interrupting the loop or circuit. I hope I didn't just confuse everyone.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Nyghtryderz View Post
Yea I would pull the t stat so you can get a good flush otherwise you have to wait til it is warmed up enough for the t stat to open to allow a full fluid flush and the water will get nice and clear. I got distiller for .88c at Walmart and it's fine if you can't get the block plugs out as you will have the fluid flushed and or diluted to the point that it is basically all water in there. You can flush 99% with hose water to get it clean then flush that out with distiller and then add 4 gallons of concentrate and hopefully we can get your other issue fixed so you don't waste money and buy a new truck. Good luck

99 F350 4x4 7.3L auto trans, crewcab, dana 60 front end, ford 10.5 rear end
MODS riffraff FRX/ hutch mod to tank/ high flow banjos/ stock tires/ 325,000 miles
thegreenmachine is offline  
post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 10:27 PM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
ArcticDriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 3,523
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Non-OEM ICPs are a crapshoot.

Hopefully its still under warranty.

The test you did by unplugging it is the standard method to see if the ICP is bad along with visually checking the pigtail for any oil since it should be dry.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
ArcticDriver is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties > '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome