Cleaning the Inter-cooler question. - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Cleaning the Inter-cooler question.

What is the best way to clean the inter-cooler out and dry it again?

Thanks,

Griz

02 F250, 4X4, 4R100, 3.73, B&M Transmission Pan, Edge CTS Digital Gage, Tymar 4" Exhaust, Tymar Intake & HPX & TS 6 Position Chip. IH Bellowed Up-Pipes, RiffRaff AIH delete plug, Riffraff FRx Kit. 6.0 Transmission Cooler. Dieselsite Coolant filter & Transmission filter & 203 Thermostat & WW2 & TurboMaster & inter-cooler boots. BD CCV filter. Driven Diesel Fuel Tank Mod & Pre-Pump Filter. John Wood's valve body.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 08:51 PM
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Best way would probably be pull it and take it the radiator repair shop for a hot dip. Otherwise, running simple green through it, flush it out and put it out in the Texas sun for a few hours to dry it out...

2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM, Full Force Stage 1 injectors

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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Best way would probably be pull it and take it the radiator repair shop for a hot dip. Otherwise, running simple green through it, flush it out and put it out in the Texas sun for a few hours to dry it out...
I don't have any Hot Texas sun here in Washington...just rain does that work?

Griz

02 F250, 4X4, 4R100, 3.73, B&M Transmission Pan, Edge CTS Digital Gage, Tymar 4" Exhaust, Tymar Intake & HPX & TS 6 Position Chip. IH Bellowed Up-Pipes, RiffRaff AIH delete plug, Riffraff FRx Kit. 6.0 Transmission Cooler. Dieselsite Coolant filter & Transmission filter & 203 Thermostat & WW2 & TurboMaster & inter-cooler boots. BD CCV filter. Driven Diesel Fuel Tank Mod & Pre-Pump Filter. John Wood's valve body.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 01:06 AM
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I don't have any Hot Texas sun here in Washington...just rain does that work?

Griz
Be careful, you don't want moss growing in it.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Be careful, you don't want moss growing in it.
Now you tell me. After looking at the instructions on how to pull the intercooler I think it is just fine. Maybe I need to design a portable flushing system that hooks up to the intercooler and circulates hot water with a detergent through it until clean and then blows hot Texas air to dry it. Or maybe when the wife isn't looking I'll hook up the washing machine to it and run a couple of cycles through it.

Griz

02 F250, 4X4, 4R100, 3.73, B&M Transmission Pan, Edge CTS Digital Gage, Tymar 4" Exhaust, Tymar Intake & HPX & TS 6 Position Chip. IH Bellowed Up-Pipes, RiffRaff AIH delete plug, Riffraff FRx Kit. 6.0 Transmission Cooler. Dieselsite Coolant filter & Transmission filter & 203 Thermostat & WW2 & TurboMaster & inter-cooler boots. BD CCV filter. Driven Diesel Fuel Tank Mod & Pre-Pump Filter. John Wood's valve body.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 10:29 AM
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Its actually not that bad pulling it out.... The hardest part is probably moving the AC Condenser without breaking any lines.

If I were going to pull mine again, I would most certainly bring it to a repair shop, that way they can test for leaks as well.

When I pulled mine out to swap the engine, I cleaned it out with plain old gasoline, followed by alot of water.

Just my $0.02!

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Ford Trucks Ive Owned over the years:
Brown 1989 F250 7.3L Diesel Rest In Pieces
White 1994 F-450 Regular Cab 7.3L Powerstroke SOLD
White 1999 F350 Super Cab 7.3L Powerstroke SOLD
White 1999 F350 Super Cab 6.8L Triton V10 Rest In Pieces
White 2000 F250 XLT Super Cab 7.3L Powerstroke SOLD
Red 2003 F250 XLT Crew Cab 6.0L Powerstroke 4X4 Off Road CURRENTLY OWN FOR SALE
White 2003 F350 Lariat Dually Crew Cab 6.0L Powerstroke 4x4 CURRENTLY OWN
Black 2003 Excursion XLT 6.0L Powerstroke 4x4 SOLD
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Its actually not that bad pulling it out.... The hardest part is probably moving the AC Condenser without breaking any lines.

If I were going to pull mine again, I would most certainly bring it to a repair shop, that way they can test for leaks as well.

When I pulled mine out to swap the engine, I cleaned it out with plain old gasoline, followed by alot of water.

Just my $0.02!

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Do you feel it is really worth it? Could you notice any improvement in EGT cooling etc.?

Griz

02 F250, 4X4, 4R100, 3.73, B&M Transmission Pan, Edge CTS Digital Gage, Tymar 4" Exhaust, Tymar Intake & HPX & TS 6 Position Chip. IH Bellowed Up-Pipes, RiffRaff AIH delete plug, Riffraff FRx Kit. 6.0 Transmission Cooler. Dieselsite Coolant filter & Transmission filter & 203 Thermostat & WW2 & TurboMaster & inter-cooler boots. BD CCV filter. Driven Diesel Fuel Tank Mod & Pre-Pump Filter. John Wood's valve body.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 12:52 PM
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It took me only an hour to pull mine. Soaked it in Super Clean (purple stuff) for a little while then turned it up so it can drain and air dry for a day. I don't remember having to work around the A/C condenser. If you do it, only tip I have is the 10mm bolts will use 11mm socket...guess because the layer of paint on it won't allow the 10mm socket to go over the head.

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 01:22 PM
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Do you feel it is really worth it? Could you notice any improvement in EGT cooling etc.?

Griz
To be honest, I changed so many things with my old truck, there would have been NO way to figure out if that helped it any.... Or if the gasoline had eaten any seals and made it worse.

Sorry I cant give any more information about that.... I only kept the truck for about 3 weeks after I did that before trading it in.


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Deutz, Perkins, Volvo Penta, Ford Industrial, KDI, Yanmar & Generac Industrial
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Ford Trucks Ive Owned over the years:
Brown 1989 F250 7.3L Diesel Rest In Pieces
White 1994 F-450 Regular Cab 7.3L Powerstroke SOLD
White 1999 F350 Super Cab 7.3L Powerstroke SOLD
White 1999 F350 Super Cab 6.8L Triton V10 Rest In Pieces
White 2000 F250 XLT Super Cab 7.3L Powerstroke SOLD
Red 2003 F250 XLT Crew Cab 6.0L Powerstroke 4X4 Off Road CURRENTLY OWN FOR SALE
White 2003 F350 Lariat Dually Crew Cab 6.0L Powerstroke 4x4 CURRENTLY OWN
Black 2003 Excursion XLT 6.0L Powerstroke 4x4 SOLD
White 2007 F550 XL Regular Cab 6.0L Powerstroke SOLD
White 2016 F450 XL Regular Cab 6.7L Powerstroke 4x4 CURRENTLY OWN
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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To be honest, I changed so many things with my old truck, there would have been NO way to figure out if that helped it any.... Or if the gasoline had eaten any seals and made it worse.

Sorry I cant give any more information about that.... I only kept the truck for about 3 weeks after I did that before trading it in.
I'll probably hold off doing it at least for now. Spring time in Washington isn't conducive to air drying anything I might do it later during the warmer months or should I say weeks.

Griz

02 F250, 4X4, 4R100, 3.73, B&M Transmission Pan, Edge CTS Digital Gage, Tymar 4" Exhaust, Tymar Intake & HPX & TS 6 Position Chip. IH Bellowed Up-Pipes, RiffRaff AIH delete plug, Riffraff FRx Kit. 6.0 Transmission Cooler. Dieselsite Coolant filter & Transmission filter & 203 Thermostat & WW2 & TurboMaster & inter-cooler boots. BD CCV filter. Driven Diesel Fuel Tank Mod & Pre-Pump Filter. John Wood's valve body.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 06:06 PM
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I don't have any Hot Texas sun here in Washington...just rain does that work?

Griz
Gracious! I bet RT and I will make a deal with you. We will trade some Texas heat for your rain, as we have PLENTY of heat nowadays in Texas!

Mike

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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 06:17 PM
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Amen. Into the triple digits in June. August and September are going to be fun...

2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM, Full Force Stage 1 injectors

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 08:09 PM
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Yep. I expect our air conditioners will be put to the test. Perhaps not like it was a year or two ago, but close.

We were through Wichita Falls late last summer towing our travel trailer and it was 109 degrees. Not sure what the road temps were, but our truck never complained.

The A/C did the best it could but at those road temps I do not think anything cools well.

2002 2WD XLT CrewCab, 3.73 Limited Slip, Assembled 08-09-01 in Ford's Cuautitian, Mexico plant. BTS Transmission with 6.0L Cooler, Mobil 1 Synthetic transmission fluid, KC reverse backup lights with separate on/off dash switch, Undercover Bed Lid, Bilstein shocks, Gentex K-21 auto dimming/temp/compass mirror, Michelin LTX/MS2 tires, Factory Aluminum Wheels, Door Seal Mod, Ford Severe Duty AIS w/Zoodad, Royal Purple 75W-140, Fleetrite ELC Coolant, Billet Aluminium Thermostat Housing, Ford Factory Bed Liner, Sylvania Silverstar Ultras. Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller, Dieselsite Max AC Assist. DP-Tuner Infinity with 60hp tow and 80hp city/highway tunes. Garrett EBPV Delete Pedestal and High Flow Outlet. International Up-Pipes.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Gracious! I bet RT and I will make a deal with you. We will trade some Texas heat for your rain, as we have PLENTY of heat nowadays in Texas!

Mike
Sounds like a good swap.

02 F250, 4X4, 4R100, 3.73, B&M Transmission Pan, Edge CTS Digital Gage, Tymar 4" Exhaust, Tymar Intake & HPX & TS 6 Position Chip. IH Bellowed Up-Pipes, RiffRaff AIH delete plug, Riffraff FRx Kit. 6.0 Transmission Cooler. Dieselsite Coolant filter & Transmission filter & 203 Thermostat & WW2 & TurboMaster & inter-cooler boots. BD CCV filter. Driven Diesel Fuel Tank Mod & Pre-Pump Filter. John Wood's valve body.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-27-2013, 01:44 PM
 
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Here's what I have found.

For many years and many miles of driving, the intercooler gets full of oil from the PCV system. The vapors of the engine are routed back up and into the turbo inlet. These vapors condense in the intercooler and end up as oil in the bottom cores of the intercooler. With enough heavy throttle, the rushing air takes most of the oil out of the intercooler and up into the engine. What's left sits in the bottom of the intercooler and blocks the bottom cores of the intercooler. This makes the intercooler smaller and less efficient.

I have gone so far as to add a drain to the intercooler that allows the oil accumulation to exit the intercooler. This extra oil can be drained or routed back up and into the crank case. The point is to get the oil out of the intercooler and make room for charge air.

Doug Lewis

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