Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Chugiak Alaska
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
No offense taken, just throwing out ideals for ya.
I usually have Klhansen come over and read my codes for me kind of cheating having his skills handy. Just a few more HPOP reservoir check valve can leak causing starting problems worse when parking uphill if I remember right. The main reason to test the glow plugs and check for injector codes before you pull them is to make sure that is the problem. If you get new injectors, and programing but still have a problem, is it the new stuff. (happens all the time) or is it the old problem. The reason I question it being a glow plug issue is I never wait to start if temps are 50 and above just turn the key and it starts. I have had a bad starter cause the symptoms you describe. even took it off and NAPA said it was good. But after new battery and alternator still had the problem so at the advice of local pro changed starter. It really spun over a lot faster and started just fine. I had put rebuilt injectors in my 7.3 and they only lasted around 40.000 mi. Replaced with new and has been running great.
Building tow monster.
I did a lot of mods to my old 99 7.3 six speed, turbo, intake, exhaust, and chip. I think bang for the buck the chip was by far the biggest factor. Turbo and did not seem to help power that much. The turbo did help some with EGT. My 2000 7.3 six speed with just a chip wicked wheel and exhaust (3 1/2 downpipe for better grunt) could run up any hill in left lane with 12000 lb 5th wheel all day long. If you have not yet picked up exhaust the 3 1/2 downpipe will give you more power quicker than a 4 inch, this is a subject that was beat to death 14 years ago, bigger exhaust downpipe is not always better for towing. It is just really hard to find a 31/2 downpipe now. If you put in rebuilt injectors you are still getting parts with unknown milage on them. I would do stock new injectors you will never have to touch them again, let the chip/programer make the power for you. When you do pull the valve covers look at the harness close we have seen a few bad ones over the years. Depending on the year you might need some little clip things for the harness. ( Klhansen would know) I don't remember the dates but that was an issue to look at also. I would add air bags to the rear and adjust as you add a load so you headlights are always set right.
I just picked up a early 99 DRW AUTO 4x4 with 56,000 miles on it for new tow truck. It is about as stock as it gets, I pulled out the blocks on rear axle, new shocks, sway bar links, and now lowered tailgate hight is 5 inches lower, adding air bags to keep it level when towing/or loaded. Swapped in 6 liter tranny cooler and class 3 hitch in front. Plan to sneak up on the engine mods, looking at DP tuner vs chip and gauges, stock exhaust with walker BTM will do about 80 percent of what a full exhaust will do unless I go real crazy with the power. I was spoiled with the six speed!! Have to go kind of easy on stock tranny. The first 60-100 hp is pretty easy to get after that you are paying a lot more money for much less HP gain.
Just some things to think about and stir the pot (dark and cold up here so have time to read and post). Take what you like and leave what ya don't
Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019