Did my clutch hydraulics just fail? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-06-2016, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Did my clutch hydraulics just fail?

I started the truck, went to put it in gear and no good. It won't go into any gear. I shut the truck off and it will then go into each gear. I popped the hood and the clutch cylinder is empty. Did my hydraulics crap out? Is there something I can fill in there to limp me to a better location or do I just need to buy a pre-bled unit from Ford? Thanks.

BTW, do I need to get one from Ford, or can advance bail me out with a quality part or just crap?

2002 F-250, PSD 6-speed, CC, short bed, 4X4, Toreador Red w/ Silver accent, A.R.E mx cap, Weld Super Single II and 33s in the summer, x-springs, F-350 blocks and badges, AIC, proflaps, ITP intank mod, AirDog with 3 micron filter, isspro guages and TTM, scangauge, husky liners, alarm, xm stereo,stull 5399-p grille, centramatics, ccv mod, AIS Air Filter, Southbend CON O, Detroit Truetrac LSD, coolant filter, 203 stat with billet housing, blackcloud intake heater plug/boost fitting, reese titan hitch, fabcraft PTO cover/temp sender port, prodigy brake controller, ITP Boost Annihalator, oilguard bypass filter, Mag-Hytec rear dif, bilsteins, hellwig rear stabilizer bar, ATS housing, non-ebpv pedistal and exhaust flange, magnaflow 3.5dp exhaust, ITP reg return, turbomaster wastegate controller, and ceramic coated bellowed up pipes, PHP 50t and 80p, currently 127,000 miles.

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-06-2016, 09:39 PM
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Try refilling the clutch master cylinder with brake fluid. It may get you where you need to go, or may leave you stranded half-way there.

As far as whether to buy from Ford or aftermarket,
Sometimes a Ford part is just the same thing in a Ford or Motorcraft box and higher price, as they may source them from the same place as the aftermarket.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-06-2016, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Well, something weird just happened. I pumped the pedal 5 or 6 times and now it works. I imagine not for long. The reservoir being empty is what I am banking on being the tell tale sign. Is my thinking correct?
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clydesdale View Post
Well, something weird just happened. I pumped the pedal 5 or 6 times and now it works. I imagine not for long. The reservoir being empty is what I am banking on being the tell tale sign. Is my thinking correct?
I'd lay money on the "not for long" part. A little fluid might have drooled down into the master cylinder.
Hydraulics can be weird. I had the pedal go to the floor once when it was real cold, but has been fine since that one time years ago. Still on the original parts after nearly 190k.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-11-2016, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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I got the parts for $191. The question now is, does anybody have a write up or video? I don't want to turn what should be straight forward into a disaster by not doing proper research.

2002 F-250, PSD 6-speed, CC, short bed, 4X4, Toreador Red w/ Silver accent, A.R.E mx cap, Weld Super Single II and 33s in the summer, x-springs, F-350 blocks and badges, AIC, proflaps, ITP intank mod, AirDog with 3 micron filter, isspro guages and TTM, scangauge, husky liners, alarm, xm stereo,stull 5399-p grille, centramatics, ccv mod, AIS Air Filter, Southbend CON O, Detroit Truetrac LSD, coolant filter, 203 stat with billet housing, blackcloud intake heater plug/boost fitting, reese titan hitch, fabcraft PTO cover/temp sender port, prodigy brake controller, ITP Boost Annihalator, oilguard bypass filter, Mag-Hytec rear dif, bilsteins, hellwig rear stabilizer bar, ATS housing, non-ebpv pedistal and exhaust flange, magnaflow 3.5dp exhaust, ITP reg return, turbomaster wastegate controller, and ceramic coated bellowed up pipes, PHP 50t and 80p, currently 127,000 miles.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-21-2016, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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I put the new hydraulics in. I took it for a quick drive and when I got back in the truck 5 minutes later, it would not go into gear. I then pumped the clutch a few times and it was fine. Air bubble? Or do I likely have bigger problems? It shifts like brand new at the moment.

2002 F-250, PSD 6-speed, CC, short bed, 4X4, Toreador Red w/ Silver accent, A.R.E mx cap, Weld Super Single II and 33s in the summer, x-springs, F-350 blocks and badges, AIC, proflaps, ITP intank mod, AirDog with 3 micron filter, isspro guages and TTM, scangauge, husky liners, alarm, xm stereo,stull 5399-p grille, centramatics, ccv mod, AIS Air Filter, Southbend CON O, Detroit Truetrac LSD, coolant filter, 203 stat with billet housing, blackcloud intake heater plug/boost fitting, reese titan hitch, fabcraft PTO cover/temp sender port, prodigy brake controller, ITP Boost Annihalator, oilguard bypass filter, Mag-Hytec rear dif, bilsteins, hellwig rear stabilizer bar, ATS housing, non-ebpv pedistal and exhaust flange, magnaflow 3.5dp exhaust, ITP reg return, turbomaster wastegate controller, and ceramic coated bellowed up pipes, PHP 50t and 80p, currently 127,000 miles.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-22-2016, 01:05 AM
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Probably just an air bubble that worked it's way out. You should be good to to.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
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