Died when driving now won't start. - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Died when driving now won't start.

my truck started fine wormed up drove for 2 minutes and had a 2 sencond power loss as i was cruiseing around 35mph. seemed to drive fine rest of the morning. i stopped for some parts and again started fine but as i drove out of the parking lot i stopped at the sighn and that was it it died just like i had shut the key off. it will not start now.

things ive done. tested fuel pump. emptied the fuel bowl / hit the key and checked again. it was full.
the tailpipe dosent smoke not even a bit when cranking.
the tach does go up to 200 or 300 when cranking.
completely disconected the edge chip and went back to stock.
un pluged each sensor one at a time didnt start. all are repluged now.
the check engine light comes on and shuts off like normal. 3 or 4 senconds.
the wait to start light works like normal 5 or 6 seconds then shuts off.
every fuse i could find has been pulled and checked by eye.
relays 30/ 31/ 32 have been moved trying the original from 31 in the others.
checked oil and its to the top and was changed 1000 miles ago.

i was told that if the check engine light isnt staying on then theres no reason to. do a check? is that true? that was the autozone guys advice.

ive done alot of searching and these are all the tips that i could find in the last 4 hours or so. any other ideas would be great.

2000 f 350 lariat ,7.3,BD power towing tranny, 4 door, long box, 6 inch lift, 38inch tires on 20in. wheels, air raid intake, 4 inch exhaust, edge with attitude chip, firestone airbags on bored air, HD trac bars, 4.56 gears. billet grill, clear headlights with hid lights.
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post #2 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 09:29 PM
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Probably the CPS. (camshaft position sensor)

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Currently own:
2003 F-350 XLT "X-tra Large Truck" CC DRW 7.3/auto 4.10 Arizona beige VDH5 born 7-25-02
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post #3 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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that seems like the answer thats been given to most guys with trucks that stop running but ive read that if the tach is reading rpms when cranking the engine then the cps if fine. is that true or not? i dont want to buy another cps if its not neccasary.

2000 f 350 lariat ,7.3,BD power towing tranny, 4 door, long box, 6 inch lift, 38inch tires on 20in. wheels, air raid intake, 4 inch exhaust, edge with attitude chip, firestone airbags on bored air, HD trac bars, 4.56 gears. billet grill, clear headlights with hid lights.
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post #4 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 09:46 PM
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going to agree with Big Foot.

not true on tach doesnt move.,

mine still read rpms and would actually crank then shut down again.

go get the international one,

do not get advance or oreillys or napa,

you will still have issues

cps is the least expensive place to start. 30 bucks
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post #5 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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sounds good. ill get the part in the morning. is there anything else that comes to mind if the cps isnt the issue? ill get started first thing in the morning but hate to get a cps and have it not be the problem and spend the rest of my day off searching for answers.

thanks for the quik replies.

2000 f 350 lariat ,7.3,BD power towing tranny, 4 door, long box, 6 inch lift, 38inch tires on 20in. wheels, air raid intake, 4 inch exhaust, edge with attitude chip, firestone airbags on bored air, HD trac bars, 4.56 gears. billet grill, clear headlights with hid lights.

Last edited by bansheeaddict; 02-16-2012 at 10:15 PM.
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post #6 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 07:26 AM
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hey banshee,

i understand your pain.

unless you have an ae scanner then you have to search like i did.

hopefully since mine last november showed us all

that cps can do things we didnt expect , we can narrow alot down

but since i didnt have a scanner it took us 2 weeks to look at cps

after we eliminated everything else as truck was running intermittent

and then would shut down which was not common for the cps,

once replaced , it showed us that cps will do what it wants to

and now is first place to start unless you have a scanner or know someone who

does.

the cheap scanners do not work on our truck as i found out as well.

hope that helps.

fortunately i could have given up but

the guys on here kept encouraging me and we got thru it.
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post #7 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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i know most 7.3 owners say to carry a spare cps and i dont have one so its probly best to buy one and if for some reason thats not it at least ill now have my spare. im waiting for international to open and hopefully they have the part. ill post back as soon as i get the cps installed.

2000 f 350 lariat ,7.3,BD power towing tranny, 4 door, long box, 6 inch lift, 38inch tires on 20in. wheels, air raid intake, 4 inch exhaust, edge with attitude chip, firestone airbags on bored air, HD trac bars, 4.56 gears. billet grill, clear headlights with hid lights.
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post #8 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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. i just got my new cps installed and hit the key with my fingers crossed and nothing tried repluging all the edge chip and again nothing.

my concern is that theres no smoke comeing from the tail pipe even when my glow plug relay was going out it smoked but didnt start. i cant find a scanner at all and my truck is to big for my trailer and i dont know where to go from here.

also my oil pressure dosent come up at all when im cranking does that mean theres no pressure? should it come up when im cranking?

any other suggestions?

2000 f 350 lariat ,7.3,BD power towing tranny, 4 door, long box, 6 inch lift, 38inch tires on 20in. wheels, air raid intake, 4 inch exhaust, edge with attitude chip, firestone airbags on bored air, HD trac bars, 4.56 gears. billet grill, clear headlights with hid lights.

Last edited by RDG; 02-18-2012 at 12:29 AM.
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post #9 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bansheeaddict View Post
my truck started fine wormed up drove for 2 minutes and had a 2 sencond power loss as i was cruiseing around 35mph. seemed to drive fine rest of the morning. i stopped for some parts and again started fine but as i drove out of the parking lot i stopped at the sighn and that was it it died just like i had shut the key off. it will not start now.

things ive done. tested fuel pump. emptied the fuel bowl / hit the key and checked again. it was full.
the tailpipe dosent smoke not even a bit when cranking.
the tach does go up to 200 or 300 when cranking.
completely disconected the edge chip and went back to stock.
un pluged each sensor one at a time didnt start. all are repluged now.
the check engine light comes on and shuts off like normal. 3 or 4 senconds.
the wait to start light works like normal 5 or 6 seconds then shuts off.
every fuse i could find has been pulled and checked by eye.
relays 30/ 31/ 32 have been moved trying the original from 31 in the others.
checked oil and its to the top and was changed 1000 miles ago.

i was told that if the check engine light isnt staying on then theres no reason to. do a check? is that true? that was the autozone guys advice.

ive done alot of searching and these are all the tips that i could find in the last 4 hours or so. any other ideas would be great.

You have a bad IPR......I'll bet the house on it.

Check to make sure the nut did not back off the end of it....if the nut is there and all looks solid...replace it with a new one

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post #10 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 04:30 PM
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Did you unplug the EBPS? Mine did the same thing and it was that. I went through what you are going through. Nobody on here suggested it so I took it to the dealer and you know how they found it? they unplugged it. Everyone on here said CPS, ICP, Fuel bowl heater etc but in the end it was the EBPS. Too boot there was quite a bit of discussion on here if the EBPS could do what it was doing. You can search my posts about it if you like.

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post #11 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 04:55 PM
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There IS NO WAY the EBP sensor caused your rig not to start. It plays ZERO role in starting the rig...none. I don't care what the dealership told you. Mine has been unplugged for 10 years.

In this case it's the IPR..........plain and simple. If you put AE on his truck right now and try to start it I'll bet the ICP never gets to 400psi. No exhaust during crank and tach moving = IPR. Either the nut worked itself off and he has a bad connection, the wires in the sensor has a bare spot and fused together or the sensor itself has gone.

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IPR
CPS
Fuel...these are the only things needed to start our rigs and the ICP and IPR are directly connected.(related)

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Last edited by klhansen; 02-17-2012 at 07:51 PM. Reason: removed insult
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post #12 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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i was told that by unplugging the ipr it would cause the computer to run in a preset mode and the engine would run if the sensor was the problem.

ive tried this and there was no change at all.

is that info correct or should i buy a new ipr?

2000 f 350 lariat ,7.3,BD power towing tranny, 4 door, long box, 6 inch lift, 38inch tires on 20in. wheels, air raid intake, 4 inch exhaust, edge with attitude chip, firestone airbags on bored air, HD trac bars, 4.56 gears. billet grill, clear headlights with hid lights.
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post #13 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 08:15 PM
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There IS NO WAY the EBP sensor caused your rig not to start. It plays ZERO role in starting the rig...none. I don't care what the dealership told you. Mine has been unplugged for 10 years.
So because your EBP has been unplugged for 10 years and is your reasoning? Did you read my post? If the EBP is faulty and is unplugged the truck will START. This is the same reasoning as unplugging the ICP sensor. But just as expected the naysayers came out of the woodwork.

To the OP, look unplugging EBP is worth a shot is all I'm saying. Why would the dealer replace my ebpv and return a truck to me in perfect running condition that I had to get towed there? They said it was the EBP sensor and they found it was faulty by unplugging it and starting it. They replaced the sensor and all good. They said they started with the ICP and then went to that one.

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post #14 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 08:20 PM
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i was told that by unplugging the ipr it would cause the computer to run in a preset mode and the engine would run if the sensor was the problem.

ive tried this and there was no change at all.

is that info correct or should i buy a new ipr?
You cannot unplug the IPR...you can unplug the ICP.

It could be your IPR and Im not saying its not but its worth a shot to try the EBP sensor despite what naysayers say. Hey if you unplug the EPB and it doesn't start you can rule that out. YOu can find IPR on ebay for a good price. Look up IPR replacement and you will see lots of tricks for sockets, wrenches etc.

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post #15 of 92 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bansheeaddict View Post
i was told that by unplugging the ipr it would cause the computer to run in a preset mode and the engine would run if the sensor was the problem.

ive tried this and there was no change at all.

is that info correct or should i buy a new ipr?
You meant ICP sensor (the one behind the alternator), right? If you pull the connector off the IPR (Injector Pressure Regulator), it's never going to start as the HPOP can't build pressure.

If you pull the connector off the ICP sensor and it starts, then the problem would be the sensor.

If there's no change, you really don't have any new information. It would be something else altogether causing the no-start.

There have been instances of the EBP sensor causing no-starts, as it's one of the sensors that share a common voltage feed from the PCM. If that shorts out, then none of the sensors will work properly. If the short is in the sensor, then unplugging it "cures" the short. It's worth a try. Thuglike is correct when he says that unplugging it won't cause a no-start.

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