engine rebuild won't start - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MarkMCM View Post
Absolute,



Thanks for responding. Maybe my post was confusing, the HPOP is putting out the 100 psi.



This is with the pump dead headed, a mechanical gauge, IPR plugged in.



I was mistaken on the 10.7, the battery was low. I have charged the batteries and now I get 12.4 at the pigtail. I have also jumped the IPR to the battery (red to positive) and got no change in the pressure.



The truck was running when I disassembled it. I just think it would be a huge coincidence if the HPOP gave up on the rebuild.



Correct me if I am wrong, but I think until I can get pressure from the HPOP nothing else matters.


You are right with out 500 psi from the pump and the other starting parameters it wonít matter.


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2000 F250 7.3 4inc exhaust, Ts 6 pos chip witch custom tunes, Built 4R100 w billet triple disc converter, 6.0 trans cooler and deep tans pan, CCV mod, 4 gauge pod A piller,Boost,Trans temp,EGT,fuel pressure AFE intake,RIFFRAFF Frx fuel Rail dead head fix black spring,High Flow banjo bolts,High Flow CVD Fitting, Harpoon mod,Diesel site adrenaline HPOP,AIH Plug,Plenum Reinforcing Inserts. FULL FORCE DIESEL STAGE 1.5 single shot injectors, Garrett powermax GTP38R and blank pedestal, RIFFRAFF Intercooler CAC Boots with complete clamp kit , scanegauge 2
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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 02:24 PM
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If you have more leak volume than you have pump volume then you can build some HP oil pressure but not reach the minimum pressure for IDM to be commanded to operate the injectors. Cranking over with valve covers off as suggested already is your next diagnostic step that is easy. A cut seal when sliding injector down in head is all it takes.

2015 F350 Platinum Max Tow What a beast with the 4.30 gears!
2006 F450 CC Hauler bed 4x2 6.0 L 6.0 auto, Lariat, 4.30 r/a, SCT, 4in exh. 103K New heads to repair diesel in coolant, 148K.
2006 F350 Lariat CC Dually 4X2, 6.0 auto 4.10 LS, SCT, airbags, 4 in. exh. 154K Rebuilt engine to repair damage from burned piston. One head to fix fuel in oil problem.
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 05:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks jimmy.

I don't have a lot of experience here. I have, to my knowledge, isolated the HPOP and I can't get it to make pressure. Will allowing it access to the downstream components correct this inability of the pump to generate pressure? I just don't see how that can be.

My wife thinks I left a rag stuck in a hole somewhere.

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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 08:27 AM
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Guess it's a long shot, but as you probably know, after your rebuild. There are 2 different gaskets for the hpop. If you have installed the wrong one, it's just like losing the little ball. No pressure. Any chance you put the wrong one on. Most rebuild kits come with both. Mine did, and had a big warning on that bag to make sure I used the right one. A chance I guess.

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Absolute,

That has crossed my mind a couple of times. I read something somewhere about two different gaskets. There was no warning and I honestly don't remember if there were two in the kit. I think I still have the leftovers. I'll look when I get home. Thanks for another trail. I have always felt that it was something goofy that I overlooked or put together incorrectly.

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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 02:57 PM
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The newer trucks, not sure years, have the gasket with the blocked port, older ones use the large open port in the same spot. I think. Lol been 4 years since I did it. You can check with your serial number. But an 01 woukd be a newer model I believe.

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 03:14 PM
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Yes, you don't make pressure, you pump a volume and if there is less leak than input then pressure builds. If you have any leak then you will not have pressure PERIOD. You will see IPR signal ramp up as that is what the PCM does to try to get pressure build by stopping the controlled leak through IPR. WHen you do not build operating threshold pressure you make sure you have no leaks. Since it was fine before disassembly, the pump being faulty goes down or off the the list. The oil res having oil in it should assure the pump has supply. If there is something that has hung an injector open then that can be seen with valve covers off too. The exhaust of 7.3 injectors is under that aluminum upside down chute on the inboard side of injector as it mounts into head. Under cranking before it builds pressure there should be no oil coming out in that area.

2015 F350 Platinum Max Tow What a beast with the 4.30 gears!
2006 F450 CC Hauler bed 4x2 6.0 L 6.0 auto, Lariat, 4.30 r/a, SCT, 4in exh. 103K New heads to repair diesel in coolant, 148K.
2006 F350 Lariat CC Dually 4X2, 6.0 auto 4.10 LS, SCT, airbags, 4 in. exh. 154K Rebuilt engine to repair damage from burned piston. One head to fix fuel in oil problem.
36 feet on the floor Elite/Outlaw LQ horse trailer.
35+5 foot double tandem axle flatbed trailer.
36 foot double tandem axle flatbed trailer
36 foot Platinum 6 horse LQ, side load, full width back tack
2003 EB Expedition 171K (no engine repairs, gas burners are the new longevity leaders)
2004 Volvo V70R AWD-high miler in fleet, 253K (no engine repairs) Hail totaled it but I kept it. Looks like a golf ball now.
Suzuki Carry KEI truck, 660cc 3 cyl DOHC EFI 4X4 5 speed RHD. Sort of a Smart Car sized pickup. Eats Gators and Mules for lunch.
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Absolute View Post
The newer trucks, not sure years, have the gasket with the blocked port, older ones use the large open port in the same spot. I think. Lol been 4 years since I did it. You can check with your serial number. But an 01 woukd be a newer model I believe.
I think you're on to something.



The year break for HPOP gaskets was in 96.
94-95 96-03

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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update - long

So, I hung my hopes on the gasket. The old gasket was not in the pile of old gaskets, but I did have another one in the new box. This was before klhansen's post. New gasket (the wrong one) obviously made no difference. I had the correct one installed initially.


I have tried to "bench test" the IPR valves according to youtube videos and I can't make either one that I have seem to close when I apply voltage. One is the old valve, the other is out of the box.


So, I pull the pump and study it. On the mounting face are 2 bolt holes, the high pressure bypass, the IPR overflow, the little ball hole and the pump inlet. With the pump primed, and turning the pump with a drill motor, no pressure builds and all the oil comes out the IPR overflow. I try to activate the IPR with 12 volts and it makes no difference, all pressure bleeds off through the IPR overflow.


I block the IPR overflow hole and I can build pressure. This tells me something is still not right in the IPR area. Should I be able to close the IPR with 12 volts and build pressure? My uneducated thought is yes.


However, in pressuring up the pump, I realize that the pump shaft seal is leaking. The leaking oil is old oil, telling me that the pump has not, in spite of all the cranking, cleared the old oil. I think I am going to use this as a sign to get a new pump. I just think that is the smart thing to do at this point. Again, this truck was running when I tore it down.



I am still interested thoughts on why I can't get the IPR valve to shut and build pressure, if anyone has any thoughts.


Thanks again for everyone's input.

'01 F350 DRW Stock
ISSPRO gauges
Automatic trans

Last edited by MarkMCM; 04-07-2019 at 12:49 PM.
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 01:10 PM
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Check the coil on your IPRs with an ohmmeter. IIRC it should be between 5 and 20 ohms. If it's infinite (open circuit), the coil is bad. One of the techs on here cautioned not to put 12V continuous for very long as it could burn out the coil. He said it was for a quick check only.

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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkMCM View Post
So, I hung my hopes on the gasket. The old gasket was not in the pile of old gaskets, but I did have another one in the new box. This was before klhansen's post. New gasket (the wrong one) obviously made no difference. I had the correct one installed initially.


I have tried to "bench test" the IPR valves according to youtube videos and I can't make either one that I have seem to close when I apply voltage. One is the old valve, the other is out of the box.


So, I pull the pump and study it. On the mounting face are 2 bolt holes, the high pressure bypass, the IPR overflow, the little ball hole and the pump inlet. With the pump primed, and turning the pump with a drill motor, no pressure builds and all the oil comes out the IPR overflow. I try to activate the IPR with 12 volts and it makes no difference, all pressure bleeds off through the IPR overflow.


I block the IPR overflow hole and I can build pressure. This tells me something is still not right in the IPR area. Should I be able to close the IPR with 12 volts and build pressure? My uneducated thought is yes.


However, in pressuring up the pump, I realize that the pump shaft seal is leaking. The leaking oil is old oil, telling me that the pump has not, in spite of all the cranking, cleared the old oil. I think I am going to use this as a sign to get a new pump. I just think that is the smart thing to do at this point. Again, this truck was running when I tore it down.



I am still interested thoughts on why I can't get the IPR valve to shut and build pressure, if anyone has any thoughts.


Thanks again for everyone's input.


I canít way in on the pump testing. But I can offer my opinion on a new pump I go with a adrenaline pump from Dieselsite I have had mine several years and does not miss a beat and holds awesome oil pressure.


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2000 F250 7.3 4inc exhaust, Ts 6 pos chip witch custom tunes, Built 4R100 w billet triple disc converter, 6.0 trans cooler and deep tans pan, CCV mod, 4 gauge pod A piller,Boost,Trans temp,EGT,fuel pressure AFE intake,RIFFRAFF Frx fuel Rail dead head fix black spring,High Flow banjo bolts,High Flow CVD Fitting, Harpoon mod,Diesel site adrenaline HPOP,AIH Plug,Plenum Reinforcing Inserts. FULL FORCE DIESEL STAGE 1.5 single shot injectors, Garrett powermax GTP38R and blank pedestal, RIFFRAFF Intercooler CAC Boots with complete clamp kit , scanegauge 2
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up What a long strange trip it's been

So, it turned out to be two things. One is n embarrassment and the other was found because of the embarrassing mistake.


The mistake. When I took the IPR out initially, I made no mental note of how it went together. Where the spacer went. There are two ways. The right way and the wrong way. The new IPR was not assembled in the box. I put it together in what seemed to me to be the right way. Nope. I figured this out when I ran across a picture in my internet travels. Both the new and the old coils ohmed out in range. They just don't work if you assemble them incorrectly.



The second thing was that, due to my lack of attention, I spent a long time troubleshooting that ended up pressuring up the pump with a drill motor and the pump dead headed. The seal on the pump leaked profusely. Since it leaks back into the motor, you never see it unless you have the pump on the bench.


Word to those that might not know. From what I understand, the AE IPR duty cycle is a "command" function, The PCM is telling the IPR to deliver that cycle. It doesn;t mean the the IPR is doing it.



Smooth seas never made a good sailor and I learned a lot on this one. Truck runs like a top. Now on to the weird auto trans issue that has cropped up.


Thanks again for all the insight.

'01 F350 DRW Stock
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