First Superduty initial observations, questions - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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First Superduty initial observations, questions

I have been around a while, posted as ChrisB since many years ago, but can't seem to get that working. Anyhow...finally got my first Superduty.

It's a 99.5 CCSB 6 speed 4wd.

One funny thing happened yesterday when I checked it out and purchased it. I looked at the oil, which should have at least 3K miles on it and it looked like someone changed it yesterday. I recalled reading about that years ago here so it rang a bell but I was still somewhat concerned it had actually been changed recently to try and cover something...what I don't know... hard to do. Anyhow I guess I have one of the motors, or maybe they all do 99-03??, that keep the oil looking like it's in a gasser? I own four other diesels and they all seem to turn the typical soot black color pretty quick.

It has 20 inch Ford wheels from a later truck, possibly 2007 or so? I think maybe later, not sure 20s came from the factory that early? They are all supposed to be hub centric with flat washer and a certain shank diameter for the lugs no? What years interchange? It would be nice if all the hubs from 99 on are compatible?

I need to get the correct lugs on there ASAP. Any recommendations with specs and purchase vendors?

I may get a set of 16 inch Alcoas matching my year or some other. I am not against 20s, this truck has had a 2007 facelift and they look good, but these tire 275-65-20 are about 34 inches diameter and I think factory is more like the 31.5 for a 235-85-16 or 265-75-16. If I get another set of wheels they will probably be 16 or 17 inch. That is just my style. I just need to decide whether to go back to factory revs per mile or stay up around 34-35 inches or something in between.

I also could use recommendation for some programmers I can use to mainly read PCM real time data, but also be able to set revs/mile or tire/gear to get the speedo matched up. Is EGT one of the ecm data points that can be read with a tuner/reader as opposed to setting it up to send to a gage? Truck is factory tune or close to it and probably always has been...probably good for me. It is high mileage 270k but seems very tight. It is heavy though and I can tell the large tires and 3.73 C1 code rear end are working against acceleration. I don't plant to do a gear swap if everything holds up. It has a Dana 50 which I am aware of vs Dana 60 and the specs. If I ever do a swap it would probably be to a 60 but likely the same 3.73 as long as I keep tires in the 31.5-35 range ....99% chance I will.

It looks like I have the 32 code probably indicating clockspring replacement? Airbag light on and no cruise or horn, so guessing pretty good indication of no power through the clock spring?


Thanks
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 01:42 PM
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I'll try to answer some of these.

As far as wheels go, the problem is offset. If you aren't rubbing on your springs, you are ok. The later wheels that came off trucks with coil spring setups won't work on your truck, so they must have come off a year that is compatible. The lugs are available on Rockauto - the problem is whether or not you have fine thread or coarse thread. There was a change somewhere in 99, so if they haven't messed with the hubs, it should be the later style. I'd check to see if your fronts and rear are the same, then order for a 2000 model.

AutoEnginuity with the Ford Enhancement will change the tire size. I'm not aware of any monitor that will do that. I have a ScanGauge to monitor my PIDs that I don't have gauges for. EGT is not monitored by the PCM so you will need a separate gauge for that.

My neighbor has a 2002. He changes his oil and it is black in a heartbeat. On my 2003, I can put 3500 miles on it before the oil starts to darken at all. Why? Who knows. I just pulled my valve covers to do my 250,000 mile tuneup and they were clean enough to eat off of.

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IF MY BODY IS EVER FOUND ON A JOGGING TRAIL JUST KNOW THAT I WAS MURDERED SOMEWHERE ELSE AND DUMPED THERE
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. Truck drove better than expected 110 miles home. It has a 7k mile old drag link. I’ll check toe again if still positive I’ll move it towards 1/16 neg instead of positive 1/16 I saw. I think it’s contributing to a tendency to draw right, wouldn’t really call it a pull, mainly crown in the road influence.
Doesn’t wonder much good in center feel but will probably improve a bit with less toe.

Anyone measure toe on their rear end? I usually see 0 to -1/16 on a live axle. This thing was at -3/32, not overly concerned, I’ll measure again. Better than -3/32 pos on a rear but I’d rather see right about 0.

Driver batt shows 14.2v solid at idle after 20 min drive. Passenger was at 12.8x both were at 12.5-6 before cold start. Should both on these trucks be at the typical 14.2 or so or is there an isolater that pulses the passenger to keep it at a good Resting voltage? From what I’ve seen of cables and lugs they all looked good. I’m guessing there’s an issue somewhere.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 08:06 PM
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Both batteries are independently grounded and then there is a big cable running between the driver's side battery to the passenger side battery and then down to the starter. If you don't see exactly the same voltage on both, you have a connection issue. Almost would have to be the passenger side ground in the scenario you described. You need to get that fixed as it really will chew up a battery to be the only one pushing the starter.

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IF MY BODY IS EVER FOUND ON A JOGGING TRAIL JUST KNOW THAT I WAS MURDERED SOMEWHERE ELSE AND DUMPED THERE
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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I just checked the batts again. Fired it up warm, within minute into idle both batts were at 14.3, I checked again say 2-3 min into low idle pass side was at 12.9x while driver at same 14.3. Some P.O. cable for car stereo is run off driver side but it would seem something is switching that pass side.

I pulled the oil cap for blowby
,cap doesn’t move an I can feel nothing perceptible in the form of blowby or typical pulsing suction. I don’t see a draft tube, prob not legal to have. Is PCV or something else removing all oil fill tube air movement?

There’s no movement of coolant in the res. No debris in there. I’ve heard it hold cooling suction or pressure before cold start and after run. After 150 miles oil still looks clean.

There is about 7k miles per receipt of rotella 15-40 conventional. So full interval and the oil looks like it went in an hour ago. Am I missing something or do I have a very tight motor here?
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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Also, trip computer miles of fuel left has odd readings. At half tank indicated I filled tank. It took 15.x gal on what I believe is a 29 gal tank. After purchase P.O. told me P.O. to him 1.5 years ago said it runs out at 1/4 tank indicated. On start up I see a low fuel light come on for the typical start up test. Don’t know if it follows gage or has mind of its own. Needle went past full but now floats around between 3/4 and full 70 miles after fill up. Anything ring a bell? Any reason fuel pickup might not be pulling from normal spot in tank? My gut is it’s a gage issue.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 09:53 PM
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No PCV - there is passive crankcase ventilation on the driverís side valve cover through the doghouse into the intake tube between the filter and turbo.

There is a pickup foot in the tank that rots off and then wonít suck fuel below a quarter tank. Next time you run the tank down, drop the tank and replace it.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the fuel pickup issue.

I am suspect my cranking is slow. It sounds slow so I’ll check all routes. I Intentionally cranked without waiting to start this am, it cranked same speed for 3-4 seconds before settling into a smooth idle. Saw one. Vid there’s a lead passenger side fender that can be grounded to crank the motor without starting it. I will use it to help me diagnose cranking starting. Does the gp relay shut the glows down upon cranking or ?

I managed to get my front toe to 0 from pos 1/16, was aiming for neg 1/16 but couldn’t get that 7000 mile old relatively clean looking beast to move any further. That locking arm deal didn’t help either. Sleeve and adjuster and bolts seemed more than up to the task on their own. I’ll try again to get that last 16th. I was tired it was dark, have another idea.

Seems the air conditioning was running this am while I was trying to run split level vent and a bit of heat. Have to look into that.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 01:47 PM
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The a/c compressor comes on in every setting except vent. Glow plugs stay on for a time determined by oil temp. Even after the light goes off.


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IF MY BODY IS EVER FOUND ON A JOGGING TRAIL JUST KNOW THAT I WAS MURDERED SOMEWHERE ELSE AND DUMPED THERE
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Haven’t checked em all but one left of off on hvac I get non cooled air. Both ac setting at in fact. Right of off upper and lower I get ac. That pattern seems odd, haven’t checked the others to right, hopefully defrost has ac.

Anyway, believe it or not I had to weigh the truck to get it titled in CA from an Oklahoma title. 3/8 tank and 5 lbs of my stuff, I jumped out, it was 7160 lbs with no front to rear axle split given though I was on two scales.

After coast down at what rpm should this trucks injectors cut back in? Mine is doing it at 1200-1300 rpm. When I was more familiar with this same year with manual trans 20 years ago, which I know was factory tune, i thought it was more like 900-1000 or just above low idle.

I’ve seen some mention of this engine ‘hiding’ oil. Is that to mean it can cause irregular cold dipstick readings or just that the hpop holds 3 quarts or so? I’ve checked oil prob 8 times in the 6 days I’ve had it. I think I’ve seen a bit of up and down on the same flat parking spot same wait. I am convinced there is no significant consumption issue if any issue. I plan to change the oil within next 500 miles... it’s been in there while.

Any further on the apparent lack of blowby hot or cold low idle? I can lay a piece of paper Over the filler, if anything there may be a very slight suction but with no perceptible pulsing I’m use to in other vehicles.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by CCSB6 View Post
Havenít checked em all but one left of off on hvac I get non cooled air. Both ac setting at in fact. Right of off upper and lower I get ac. That pattern seems odd, havenít checked the others to right, hopefully defrost has ac.
Only two settings on the knob that the compressor does not engage are OFF and FLOOR.

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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I’ve driven it about 1k, like it more as time goes on. My ac doesn’t run in upper vent one left of straight up off, and floor only. On two 500 mile tanks I saw 20.5 and 21.7 mpg. That’s pretty good in my book. Curious what it will do long trip cruising 70. I’ll expect about 20-21 and see what happens. The above figures are mixed with a lot of highway but slow and stop and go. I’m my experience with other vehicles including diesel, if driven correctly, slow even stop and go, diesels will maintain high mileage figures.

Now looking to do first oil/filter change. Have two M1 601a grain silos ready to go.

Recommendation on good value in the fuel filter? I haven’t looked at mine closely yet but is there a water drain on the housing I should crack open and observe? It appears to have an aftermarket cold air setup with a smallish cone filter I don’t particularly like, see if I can fit a standard cylinder filter in there.

I have not done an oil analysis with Blackstone in a long time I’m anything but did quite a few in the past. I’ll probably do a baseline on this one.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 01:29 PM
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So - fuel filters come in two flavors. The OEM filter uses a detached cap that came from your truck from the factory. A lot of the aftermarket styles come with a cap attached, which will not work if you go back to a separate filter. I stick with OEM on mine. The fuel drain valve is great, except the o-rings on it will leak if you open it after it hasn't been moved in a while. There is a simple rebuild kit with upgraded o-rings that you need to get. I keep an extra one in my center console. Ford 7.3 Diesel Fluorosilcone Drain Valve O-rings

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IF MY BODY IS EVER FOUND ON A JOGGING TRAIL JUST KNOW THAT I WAS MURDERED SOMEWHERE ELSE AND DUMPED THERE
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 01:31 PM
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Once you figure out your AC controls see if the air seems cold enough. Mine was terrible until I installed this (attached). Ice cold- I love it, my wife hates it...... I keep a coat behind the back seat for her 😁

https://www.dieselsite.com/maxacassi...4-200373l.aspx

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 11:38 AM
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Glow plugs stay on after starting. The glow plug light on the dash has no relation to how long the glow plugs are on. Just for fun I ran a led light to the solenoid and can see how long it is on. The starter can start to go bad and cause a lot of draw on the batteries, which in turn don't allow the injectors to fire correctly. The truck will turn over but have intermittent starting issues. If you see this first check the alternator output when running. Should be around 14 volts. A diode can go in the alternator and it will only put out around 12.7 volts and not trip the alternator light. Check and clean all cables/grounds/connections. Check/charge batteries. The motor should spin FAST if all is working well. If not suspect the starter, I have had a few that would turn truck over but when I stuck in the new one it was very clear how slow it was turning. Lots of good posts on the topic.

Overhead readout for MPG is not reliable and gets worse with chip or programer so do mpg calculations by hand. Foot in tank fix is not that hard, do hutch and poon mod at same time.

I would stick with OEM style fuel filter, not cheap but works great. Diesel Orings site is the way to go, set up a account, seems I am getting stuff from them every year. Great parts and service. Not sure on the oil thing, mine is usually black after a few grand so suspect someone changed it I would not worry if it is running good.
DENNY

When you change the oil there is a few quarts left in the engine, not a big deal

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