Floor Jack Center Jacking Point and Jack Stand Locations - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Floor Jack Center Jacking Point and Jack Stand Locations

I recently acquired a 2000 F250 PSD 4x4. I'll be doing some maintenance in the near future that requires 2-4 wheels to be off the ground. Surprisingly, I couldn't find a quick answer to my question and the owners manual didn't assume the use of a conventional floor jack.

1.) Where's the best center jack location (I know the differential is a big NO NO) to lift the entire front or entire rear end?
2.) What's the best location to jack each corner?
3.) What's the best location for jack stands?

2011 Ford F250 King Ranch
2011 BMW M3 6MT
1969 Toyota FJ40
2011 BMW 128i (wife's car)
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 08:31 PM
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Jack stands work really well below the axles on the spring plates. I also use those points to jack from. I have a couple of hardwood blocks that I use to keep the saddle on the jack from contacting the u-bolts.

The frame rails are pretty stout and will allow you to support the truck too. You have to have a pretty tall set of jack stands to do it on a 4x4 though. I think I have 2 sets of the 6 ton stands from harbor freight and they do it pretty good.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-07-2010, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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Jack stands work really well below the axles on the spring plates. I also use those points to jack from. I have a couple of hardwood blocks that I use to keep the saddle on the jack from contacting the u-bolts.

The frame rails are pretty stout and will allow you to support the truck too. You have to have a pretty tall set of jack stands to do it on a 4x4 though. I think I have 2 sets of the 6 ton stands from harbor freight and they do it pretty good.
Sounds good. I'll probably just use the spring plate location for jacking and the frame rails for the stands. I have the 6 ton harbor freight stands as well.

It still would be nice to have a center jacking point as to jack at one center point and be able to insert 2 stands on the ends of the axles... Any suggestions?

2011 Ford F250 King Ranch
2011 BMW M3 6MT
1969 Toyota FJ40
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-07-2010, 09:31 AM
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Yes it is generally frowned upon for jacking by the diffs but i do it all the time on my f250 4x4.

The back is easy, pumpkin is in the center. the front is easy as long as your jack doesnt have a small 1 inch jacking saddle. I think my 4ton craftsman has a 3 inch diameter saddle. I jack the whole front up with the saddle butted up against the pumpkin on the axle tube.

Its worked well for me and half a dozen shops ive seen it done at. Hell, when I took an ambulance to get a blowout fixed the guy was like "this is how we jack these things up cause we aint got no floor jacks that will work" (word for word) as he was jacking from the pumpkin using his centerpost hydraulic lift.

regardless. make SURE you have your tires properly chocked and 4x4 engaged (if jacking rear). do not work on the truck if the axle/frame isnt on jackstands, ESPECIALLY if you are jacking the front up like i do.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-07-2010, 07:59 PM
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i suggest a sturdy wide base set of 6ton or 8ton jack stands. i would ditch the floor jack. a 6 or 8 ton bottle jack with a nice wide base i suggest. i would never try and jack from the center. these trucks are heavy and wide. you are asking for trouble when you do that. take an extra few minutes and jack each side up at a time.

2002 F-250: CREW CAB: SHORT BED: 4X4
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IESEL: 6SPD MANUAL: ALUMINUM AIR INTAKE: 4" BANKS DOWN PIPE: CUSTOM MADE 5" DUAL EXHAUST IN FRONT OF REAR WHEELS: TS PERFORMANCE 6POSITION 140HP: AUTOMETER GAUGES ON PILLAR AND ON INSTRUMENT CLUSTER: DUAL FRONT SHOCKS: DUAL STEERING STABILIZER: KYB MONOTUBE SHOCKS AND STEERING STABILIZER: LIFTED 2INCHES: TOYO OPEN COUNTRY AT TIRES LT285/75/17 LOAD RANGE E: 17" AMERICAN RACING WHEELS: CUSTOM MADE WHEEL SPACERS: WARN HUBS: POWER SLOT FRONT BRAKE ROTORS: HAWK SD BRAKE PADS UP FRONT: SMOKED CAB LIGHTS: SMOKED TAIL LIGHTS: POLK AUDIO 10" SUBS IN HOMEMADE BOXES: SONY HEAD UNIT AND SPEAKERS: KENWOOD AMP
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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i suggest a sturdy wide base set of 6ton or 8ton jack stands. i would ditch the floor jack. a 6 or 8 ton bottle jack with a nice wide base i suggest. i would never try and jack from the center. these trucks are heavy and wide. you are asking for trouble when you do that. take an extra few minutes and jack each side up at a time.
I've got a few good sets of 6 ton stands. Here's a picture illustrating my problem. If I use the spring plate to jack the truck up, I can't get a jack stand in on that side of the axle because the jack is in the way...


2011 Ford F250 King Ranch
2011 BMW M3 6MT
1969 Toyota FJ40
2011 BMW 128i (wife's car)
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 07:24 PM
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i cant view your pick.

2002 F-250: CREW CAB: SHORT BED: 4X4
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IESEL: 6SPD MANUAL: ALUMINUM AIR INTAKE: 4" BANKS DOWN PIPE: CUSTOM MADE 5" DUAL EXHAUST IN FRONT OF REAR WHEELS: TS PERFORMANCE 6POSITION 140HP: AUTOMETER GAUGES ON PILLAR AND ON INSTRUMENT CLUSTER: DUAL FRONT SHOCKS: DUAL STEERING STABILIZER: KYB MONOTUBE SHOCKS AND STEERING STABILIZER: LIFTED 2INCHES: TOYO OPEN COUNTRY AT TIRES LT285/75/17 LOAD RANGE E: 17" AMERICAN RACING WHEELS: CUSTOM MADE WHEEL SPACERS: WARN HUBS: POWER SLOT FRONT BRAKE ROTORS: HAWK SD BRAKE PADS UP FRONT: SMOKED CAB LIGHTS: SMOKED TAIL LIGHTS: POLK AUDIO 10" SUBS IN HOMEMADE BOXES: SONY HEAD UNIT AND SPEAKERS: KENWOOD AMP
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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i cant view your pick.
Oops, this should work...


2011 Ford F250 King Ranch
2011 BMW M3 6MT
1969 Toyota FJ40
2011 BMW 128i (wife's car)
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-09-2010, 01:11 AM
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the front is very hard to jack up and still have room for jack stands. i have found the easiest way is to put the jack stands under the frame rail. this will require tall jack stands or a good size block under short stands.

2002 F-250: CREW CAB: SHORT BED: 4X4
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IESEL: 6SPD MANUAL: ALUMINUM AIR INTAKE: 4" BANKS DOWN PIPE: CUSTOM MADE 5" DUAL EXHAUST IN FRONT OF REAR WHEELS: TS PERFORMANCE 6POSITION 140HP: AUTOMETER GAUGES ON PILLAR AND ON INSTRUMENT CLUSTER: DUAL FRONT SHOCKS: DUAL STEERING STABILIZER: KYB MONOTUBE SHOCKS AND STEERING STABILIZER: LIFTED 2INCHES: TOYO OPEN COUNTRY AT TIRES LT285/75/17 LOAD RANGE E: 17" AMERICAN RACING WHEELS: CUSTOM MADE WHEEL SPACERS: WARN HUBS: POWER SLOT FRONT BRAKE ROTORS: HAWK SD BRAKE PADS UP FRONT: SMOKED CAB LIGHTS: SMOKED TAIL LIGHTS: POLK AUDIO 10" SUBS IN HOMEMADE BOXES: SONY HEAD UNIT AND SPEAKERS: KENWOOD AMP
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-09-2010, 07:58 AM
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I've got a few good sets of 6 ton stands. Here's a picture illustrating my problem. If I use the spring plate to jack the truck up, I can't get a jack stand in on that side of the axle because the jack is in the way...
When that happens I normally either jack from the framerail (with a VERY long jack) or from the front pumpkin for the driver side and on the axle tube for the passenger side. I would be worried about the jack slipping if placed on the axle tube so dont do that.

For the jackstand I put mine between the spring perch bottom and the end of the axle tube.

2000 F350 7.3l auto 4x4 CCLB Dually lariat, my new baby purchased 8-22-11
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. 66/74/1.15 S300 turbo, TS chip from swamps (daily with 60 tune), proper gauges, coolant filter w/ ELC, 19.5s. - Currently undergoing frame swap / restoration

2006 E350 6.0 auto cutaway van XLT with fiberglass roadside assistance box w/ air compressor. Purchased from company but used as a beater truck.

AutoEnginuity w/ Ford Enhanced - Tampa Bay area, FL. Just buy me dinner + fuel
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-13-2011, 08:50 PM
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I have a 2 ton jack, its fairly old. But its one of the longer type with a long handle and long body. These trucks are heavy, I have to work pretty hard to elevate it.

Anyways I was jacking my truck up like the picture above showed. Aren't we going to mess up the threads of the ubolts that clamp down the leaf springs? It looks like in the picture above that he is on one of the bolts. My cup on my jack is so large that its on 3 of the rods from the bolts. Also the space between the differential and the knuckle almost seems to small for my jack stand to fit, guess I will have to put the jack stand on the frame.

Thoughts?
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-16-2011, 10:13 AM
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I've always just put a jack stand on the frame. I haven't noticed it requiring any sort of mutant tall jack stand to be able to put it there (on my 4x2 or my Dad's 4x4).

2002 7.3L PSD F-250; 4x2; Crew Cab; Short bed; 3.73; {Autometer Pyro, Trans Temp, Boost}; {Tekonsha P3}; {Updated CCV Mod at 174k}; {New Ball Joints; Tie Rod Ends; Drag links; Dieselsite Coolant Filter, billet thermostat housing, 203* thermostat; Fleetrite ELC; Bilsteins from CaryT at 126k}; {Airtex water pump; Rear pinion seal; U-joints and carrier bearing at 146k}; {Dieselsite Motor and Intercooler boots, External Trans Filter, HP Oil Xover hard line, AIH Delete with Boost mod at 158k}; {Amsoil BMK21 Bypass Filter at 174k}
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