Hard Start Cold - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-17-2016, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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Hard Start Cold

Well as winter here in Mass is fast approaching I figured it would be a good time to address my cold start problems.
My 7.3 has right around 175k on it, it does not like to start in weather below 50 unless plugged in. So i figured glow plugs must be originals so I replaced them yesterday with new Motorcraft ZD 11s. I was expecting the truck to fire up as should this morning but I was not pleased with the results, no start. My next step would be to check the relay but I have a glow plug module instead of a relay. Do these often go bad should I test it? Or do I have some other under lying problem with this old girl. Shes going to be a plow truck this winter so I need to be "on point" when it comes to starting in cold weather.

Also when I do get it to start in cold weather it runs rough and seems like it miss fires on a cylinder or two, it doesn't idle smooth until it warms up.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated!!
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-18-2016, 02:57 AM
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Did you check the relay? Make sure also that the batteries load-test is good as well.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-18-2016, 01:39 PM
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The module is just a monitoring system, iirc. You should still have the relay also.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-18-2016, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karlduke View Post
Did you check the relay? Make sure also that the batteries load-test is good as well.
That's Glow-Plug-Relay (GPR). They're cheap to buy. If you look up the International pt. no. they're even cheaper. I put in a monster last time I did it. The replacement was about twice as long and round and 4 times as heavy as the OEM. (Stancor?)

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-19-2016, 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 79jasper View Post
The module is just a monitoring system, iirc. You should still have the relay also.

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What year is the OP truck? I don't see he has had a chance to set up a signature yet.

There is a difference between a GPR and a GPM (or GPCM) and the PCM does not allow them to just be swapped. A Module is a solid-state device and it reports GP condition to the PCM as well as supplying voltage to the GPs.

Some GPRs have a shunt and some don't...and, ofcourse, on 99.5 and newer there is also a Relay for the AIH Just forward of the GPR.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-19-2016, 01:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerstrokel View Post
Well as winter here in Mass is fast approaching I figured it would be a good time to address my cold start problems.
My 7.3 has right around 175k on it, it does not like to start in weather below 50 unless plugged in....Also when I do get it to start in cold weather it runs rough and seems like it miss fires on a cylinder or two, it doesn't idle smooth until it warms up.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated!!
Welcome to the forum.

When you plug your block heater in does the engine have the same symptoms of mis-fire during a cold weather start?
Ofcourse, this test assumes your block heater is working You can test the block heater with an Ohmeter at the 120v plug.

Plus, if this is your first winter with the 7.3 you might want to read up on the EBPV. That way you won't be surprised when you hear a hissing (some describe a jet engine "sound") from your exhaust for the first several minutes in cold temperature starts.
This link should take you to Post #7 by SmokeyWren: http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...9/#post2257821 .


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

Last edited by ArcticDriver; 11-19-2016 at 01:41 AM.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-19-2016, 01:15 PM
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Yeah, I didn't see the year.
I thought they still used a relay even if it has the gpcm.

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1994 F350 7.3 PSD 4X4 ZF5 DUALLY
PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV DELETE. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.

2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.


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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-19-2016, 01:57 PM
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Second for the glow plug relay.

2000 F250 PSD, 4x4, Red
Banks 4" Exhaust, Big-head Wastegate, DP tuner Chip (80econ, 60 tow, 100 race...), AFE Stage II, Turbonetics Torque-Master .84 turbo, Spearco 6.0 retro-IC, EBPV removed, Ram-air Mod, BWD bellowed up-pipes, Ford HD 4R100 Transmission. Mag-Hytec trans and diff covers, full gauges.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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So first off I want to thank everyone for their advice.

So this weekend I swapped my glow plug module with a good one off a 6.0. When I disconnected the plugs there was a terminal in the plug that was melted. Now i have 8 new glow plugs and a good module, but still struggles to start when cold!! The truck is a 2000 and yes it starts right up when the block heater is plugged in and does not miss fire.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 11:36 PM
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Another cause of hard starts could be worn injectors. With cold oil, the armature plates can be sticky and not allow the injector to operate until the oil warms up and is less viscous. You can check by removing the valve covers and checking the clearance between the injector body and the armature plate accessed by removing the injector solenoid. If it won't let a 0.0015 inch feeler gauge slide underneath the armature, then the injector is likely worn out. I understand that there are shims available to fix the issue.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 07:07 AM
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Klhansen is correct. No miss fire when warm means sticking injector armatures. If you cold start it with valve covers off you will see which ones are not firing. Shim kit can be found on ebay to give you time to save for new injectors.

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Hmmm seems like I'm going to have to dig out the other set of injectors I have and throw them in. The melted prong in the plug doesn't spark anyone's interested? I believe it is making contact, but I'm not 100%.

Thanks for the advice!
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by powerstrokel View Post
The melted prong in the plug doesn't spark anyone's interested? I believe it is making contact, but I'm not 100%.
That's probably something that should be fixed. There are pigtails available for the two output plugs going to the glow plugs.
Ford PN 4C3Z-12B568-AA
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-29-2016, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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I wanted to update everyone, after shimming the armatures with a .002 shim the truck fires right up in the cold. I thank everyone for there help it is greatly appreciated.

1999 7.3 Regular Cab XLT Long Bed
2000 7.3 Extended Cab XL Long Bed
2001 7.3 Regular Cab XL Utility Body
2003 6.0 Extended Cab Lariat Long Bed
2004 6.0 Regular Cab XL Long Bed
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