Idle Issues - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Idle Issues

2002 Ford F-250 7.3L 2WD 260K

Been having some weird things happening lately. Not sure if they are related or not.

First off, when driving very slowly, or stopped at a stop sign, I get a random RPM surge or even a drop in RPM's. My truck seems to idle at about 600 RPM and the quick surge will take it up to about 700RPM. Seems to be about cold idle speed. It immediately drops right back down. On the other hand, if it drops the RPM's the truck will sometime die. This has only happened while stopped at red lights and has twice happened at very low speed when pulling into the driveway. The truck will crank right back up with no problems. It seems that I have also noticed a slight surge a couple of times when cruising at 30-40 mph. Nothing over that. And never with the cruise control on. None of this happens on a regular basis and seems to be random. However, it does seem to happen once or twice every day not during my commute.

Is there some sort of sensor on the gas pedal that might be going out??

Other thing happening only every now and then is that when I hit a big bump my windshield wipers will sometimes come on. Not for long, but it will happen ever few minutes. The other day this happened and my washer fluid was spraying out as well??

I appreciate any help in diagnosing this. TIA!
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 06:59 PM
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Sounds like a classic Cam Position Sensor issue. A CPS can cause a momentary interruption in signal to the PCM, and could either be a drop in RPM or a surge as the PCM catches back up and overshoots. The engine dying is pretty classic CPS as well. The original black CPS was recalled a number of years ago and replace by Ford with a grey one. If you've still got the black one, Ford will still change it for you unless their records show it has already been done. But a CPS is only about $25 to buy and not that hard to install yourself. That saves the hassle of going to a dealer.

The Accelerator Position Sensor could be a problem too, but I would swap out the CPS first before trying to track down an AP Sensor issue. The whole pedal assembly would need to be replaced, although Dorman does have a position sensor separately for some models.

The wiper thing sounds like a short somewhere, or a GEM issue. If your windshield has been leaking, it may have leaked on the fuse box and/or GEM and caused problems. Look under the dash for signs of water.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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klhansen.. Thank you for the information. I thought about the CPS but talked myself out of it. Mainly because I just replaced it not that long ago. Also, the last time it went out a long time ago the truck would immediately start back up after it stalled. I will grab another one and swap it out and let you know how it goes. Thanks again!
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 06:24 PM
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Ummm, my truck was doing that, put 4 cps in before I figured out the plug was the culprit. Not only was the wire intermittent, but the square openings were the pins go into on the plug were opened up and loose fitting. Never noticed until the new pigtail arrived after I discovered the wire on the plug. It was also square, but the opening was closed and tight, the pin has to push it open, so it has tension and fits tight. The old one also showed signs of blackening which is corrosion. Your harness has about the same mileage as mine. Just saying.

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Absolute.. Thanks for the info. Any pictures or diagrams of where the pigtail connector connects? I will take a look when I crawl under there.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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klhansen.. So I installed a new CPR. Definitely running better, but still having issues. Changed it Friday and had no real issues all day Saturday. Didn't drive it on Sunday. But had the same RPM issues yesterday, just not as much. Wonder if Absolute might be on to something?? Anything else you can think of??
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 05:03 AM
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The pigtail and plug are the plug,(Male) and about 8 inches of wire with it, for the CPS sensor. So find the cPS on the front of the motor, unplug and cut off the 8 inches and install the new plug and 8 inches of wire. That gets you pretty much new wire all the way to the fuel bowl were all the wires join the rest of the loom. I think that section gets brittle from heat and movement as the rest doesn't have much room to move around or come loose.

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
1999 Mustang GT Convertible Anniversary, rare stock electric green
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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Absolute.. I assume the connector is easier to change from the top?? I donít recall having a lot of room when swapping the CPS out.. thanks!!
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 08:02 AM
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Yes change it from the top. There is a small clip about 4 inches up from the plug, unclip that and the wires can be pulled up to the top of the HPOP were its easy to do the splice. Take your time and make nice splices, and solder them and shrink wrap. I always seal them too by using liquid electrical tap first, then slide the shrink wrap over the liquid while still wet, and shrink it until all the liquid squeezes out. Wipe clean and you have an impenetrable splice.

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
1999 Mustang GT Convertible Anniversary, rare stock electric green
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Just a quick update. I replaced the pigtail connector Saturday before last. No issues until last Wednesday and it started acting up again. Not as bad as before, but still has idling issues and dies randomly when at stop or low speeds. Any thoughts that maybe I got a bad sensor?? I have replaced this thing 4 or 5 times in the last few years. I know there were some issues with the generic sensors from the auto parts store at one time. Can you even still buy the original (good) sensor any longer??

Also still having the windshield wiper issue randomly. I really think it is some sort of electrical interference making the them turn on. But haven't been too concerned with it since I am still trying to figure out the CPS sensor issue.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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