Intermittent running rough - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 12:14 AM
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IDM's 99-03 for the 7.3 are all the same.

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You can actually use an IDM from 94-97 trucks as well. They're marked IDM-100, the later ones are marked IDM-110 or IDM-120 for 99 and up.


You might want to check continuity in the injector circuits from the heads to the IDM. Also a possibility that the harness is chafing on the driver's side valve cover. Easy fix with some electrical tape. Check the underside near the 42 pin connector.

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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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I inspected the wire harness next to drivers side valve cover and dont see any sign of abrasion there. I did put a new Ford dark grey cps on it today and no change. I was watching the hpop and ipr duty cycle numbers very close. When truck first started and was running good the hpop is 550 and ipr is 12.9%.... at it runs longer and starts to chug and run worse especially when I try to rev it the numbers both go up...like 650 and 17%. When it gets even worse...they will be 900 and 20%.... the truck had been plugged in all morning and engine oil temp started at about 80 and was at 120 when acting the worse. Is computer trying to raise pressure to spray more fuel and cool the engine off or something? Someone mentioned a manifold temp sensor in the intake spider that might cause it to think the engine is warmer than it is. I cant find a reading on it put did try unplugging it to send it to default and that didnt do anything. I havent been able to get my hands on an idm yet...still looking for one I can borrow and not have to spent a bunch more money till I can determine that is the real problem.
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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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These were the readings just as I was idling about to shut it off. Isnt that injector pulse width way high? I have just been looking at that
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 04:13 PM
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Your Injector pulse width units appear to be smaller than the standard micro seconds ( I don't recall right now what the "u" symbol stands), but I think your reading is equivalent to 2.68 microseconds, which isn't excessive.

You can unplug certain sensors (such as EOT) which will cause the PCM to use default settings, and see how that affects the problem.

How long has it been since you changed your oil? The 7.3L can be sensitive to oil condition. Maybe you're getting oil aeration.

Both IPR duty cycle and ICP normally go up together. I don't think your readings are out of range.

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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 04:42 PM
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Someone mentioned a manifold temp sensor in the intake spider that might cause it to think the engine is warmer than it is. I cant find a reading on it put did try unplugging it to send it to default and that didnt do anything. .
That is the Intake Air Heater (IAH), it is not a sensor, but a heating element that energizes via the IAH Relay (forward of the GPR Relay) and most likely will not come on as it needs several inputs, including the parking brake to be set. Most people remove them and plug the hole as they block air flow and are usually never energized.

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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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I am familiar with the intake air heater and this is a seperate deal from that. It is a senser and it is just below the IAH...I was told it is an input to the computer like the engine oil temp senser that the ECU uses to determine things like the injector pulse width. I did get another IDM from a friend this evening and will try that hopefully tomorrow
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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 11:42 PM
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There's no sensor below the IAH on the turbo wye. But there is an actuator solenoid for the EBP valve at the front of the turbo pedestal. Unplugging that won't affect how the engine runs, but will just disable the EBP valve. It has the same type of wiring connector as the IPR.

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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 04:54 AM
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I will leave the two experts to troubleshoot your problem and I am not suggesting this as a cause but just curious what your ICP pigtail looked like when you had it unplugged. You have quite a few miles and years on that original ICP and I just wondered if it had started seeping oil yet.


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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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This is the senser I was told was a MAT manifold air temperature sensor...below the IAH and above the pedestal. When I changed my ICP...the pigtail did have a little oil on it...I cleaned it and checked the wires and they all seemed to be in good condition
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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Try again for pic...
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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 11:15 AM
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This is the senser I was told was a MAT manifold air temperature sensor...below the IAH and above the pedestal. When I changed my ICP...the pigtail did have a little oil on it...I cleaned it and checked the wires and they all seemed to be in good condition
You are correct. That is the MAT and it does communicate with the PCM along with the IAT sensor at the airbox. I forgot about that little gem in the spider.

I did some reading last night on it and found very little for what it actually effects and it isn't considered an input for Diesel Controls to the PCM. Kind of strange, but I will see if I can find more on it today.

Did you get to install the IDM yet?

Also, the rough running is happening as you bring the RPM up right? Does it go away? Is it RPM based or HPO based? I was pondering the throttle position sensor being the issue since everything has checked out. Thinking a dead spot in the pedal.

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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 05:31 PM
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My bad. I forgot about the MAT Sensor down on the turbo outlet wye. I must have been thinking about the tubing connection there that goes to the MAP sensor. Sorry.

I believe that the PCM uses MAT as an input (would have to check my resources to be sure), but again, don't think it would affect your intermittent problem.

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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-29-2019, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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You are correct. That is the MAT and it does communicate with the PCM along with the IAT sensor at the airbox. I forgot about that little gem in the spider.

I did some reading last night on it and found very little for what it actually effects and it isn't considered an input for Diesel Controls to the PCM. Kind of strange, but I will see if I can find more on it today.

Did you get to install the IDM yet?

Also, the rough running is happening as you bring the RPM up right? Does it go away? Is it RPM based or HPO based? I was pondering the throttle position sensor being the issue since everything has checked out. Thinking a dead spot in the pedal.

I did install the other IDM...no change...still does the same thing. Actually when I first put it on it seemed like the engine was idling smoother but within a few minutes I could hear it changing and getting in my worse. You can hear the pitch of the engine begin the change. As that happens the hpop numbers are usually getting higher. If u try to rev the engine it starts chugging worse and then when returned to idle it is even worse. So I wouldn't think it would be a dead spot in the TPS. Out of curiosity I unplugged the MAT and EOT sensors and it got better. Wasnt running perfect but definitely better...according to torque this put my EOT at 210. It had been about 120...now keep in mind the truck had been plugged in and running for about 10 minutes at this point. It definitely acts like something is getting hot or the pcmr "thinks" it is and is changing something. Any ideas?
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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-29-2019, 01:05 PM
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What about just unplugging the EOT? It doesn't make sense, but it could be reading faulty.

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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-29-2019, 03:38 PM
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What about just unplugging the EOT? It doesn't make sense, but it could be reading faulty.

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The PCM responds to the EOT signal kind of like a switch. It changes the HP oil pressure based on whether EOT is above or below 140F (IIRC). Higher oil pressure below that and "normal" lower pressure if above. If the EOT sensor is unplugged, the PCM uses higher pressure for starting, and lower pressure for running. Unplugging it would be a simple test, although I doubt it would affect an intermittent problem. Once above the warmed up temp, the signal would have to switch back and forth around the switch point. The EOT sensor is an RTD (resistance thermal device) and they're typically pretty robust, and unlikely to fail. Might be a wiring issue, possibly an intermittent short.

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