Knocking - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Ok exhaust, is replaced and fit good with the sway bar. Unfortunately it actually didn't solve my problem. It might have slightly reduced the noise 10% but it's there.
I choose to clear codes and retest without rebuilding the turbo yet. As I mentioned previously the turbo seemed to check out ok, but rebuilding wouldn't hurt

P0478 popped up key on engine running on demand self test. During this test I started getting a unusual noise but only in the starting during the whole last phase of the test. it might have just been the new exhaust rattling as the test does create a rough vibration, it didn't sound the same as the noise I'd hear while driving around. At the end of these when I received the code. I jumped out, checked the valve and it was open as it should

And p0284, but I'm running a grey cps. Looks like I need a black one to get be sure

I'll add blow by is normal

Still hear the noise(ticking) while accelerating, coasting noise stops at 800-1000 rpm, parked holding 2000 rpm+. I don't hear it at idle.

Unsure what to do, I'll probably pop a valve cover off with #8 and look for anything unusual. Tomorrow

Maybe during the week I'll try and look at the opposite valve cover.

Next weekend I'll see if I can get to rebuilding the turbo and ebpv delete.

If the exhaust up pipes or exhaust manifold was leaking slightly could it create something like this
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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled the passenger side valve cover off. Oil looked to flow evenly from all injectors but I didn't take it past idle. I discovered that the passenger side had two hard to reach bolts that where only hand tight only. I didn't discover anything else unusual. I did replace glow plugs as a safe measure and found two glow plugs that were dead. I also did the quarter mod to the under the valve cover harness. Had it in the shop before for one of those connectors years ago, before I knew about the buzz test available through fordscan on Android.

Lesson learned after Two different tows, and two different shops later. The first shop(pepboys) knew it was a diesel before the tow. Two days later called and said "we don't work on diesels". The second shop was a Monday-friday diesel mechanic. They Found it fixed it. A couple days later I discovered a battery terminal separated from the case and shorting out internally. Replaced both batteries and also discovered the starter was also toast, I never crank more than a few seconds at a time. Sadly I couldn't point to who did what. But I suspect pepboys cranked the piss out of it.

Next weekend I'm going to try and tackle the other valve cover. Which actually has number 8. It was rainy and I didn't have a long window to knock it out. At a glance the driver's side might need more time.

Any tips for cleaning the engine valley
I've had two different fuel leaks in just the past few years and I suspect there was one years ago. I have a dirt/ tar/terracotta like build up. cleaning just the valve cover was about a hour of soapy water and scrubbing. Is using a carwash sprayer wand a terrible idea
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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Super heavy Grey smoke, showed up today. Smells like unburned diesel. Removed the driver's side valve cover all rods are straight, I'm going to check injector oil flow in the morning. I believe I have a injector stuck open. I'm going to have to check everything out carefully. If I wanted to do a compression test is it possible with a injector stuck open?
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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 11:20 PM
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If I wanted to do a compression test is it possible with a injector stuck open?
You can do a compression test with a stuck injector. Probably won't fire off, because it'll just be drooling fuel rather than an atomized spray.

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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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I've seen adapters online to compression test a 7.3 from the glow plug's spot. I was hoping to pickup a tester locally. Anyone ever find a tester that came with the correct adapter locally, or every try to make your own
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post #21 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 09:10 AM
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There are several kits that fit all vehicles. You can make one out of a glow plug if your in a pinch.

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
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post #22 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I'll probably try getting something together soon. I could use any tips for finding a injector that is sticking open. Buzz test is complete comes out good, oil flow is the same from all 8, I have both valve covers off. When I start the truck after 10 seconds or so at idle I start getting a knocking. I kill it and try unplugging different injectors till the bad knocks don't return. So far I have #8 unplugged(driver,rear) and idles with no knocks and my exhaust is dripping fuel. Might be residual fuel in the exhaust. I just want to be sure I have the right injector.
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post #23 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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After a few starts at idle, the smoke still had some existence and exhaust was still leaking fuel so I've decided the easiest way to find the leaking injector is to unplug the entire drivers side bank and pull the glow plugs and crank it over by jumping the solenoid that's on the passenger fender. And have a helper look for which cylinder makes my truck into a fog machine. I'm suspecting a injector is stuck open and even unplugged is still delivering fuel. As I pulled the glow plugs both motorcraft you can see a slight issue with the one from #8 maybe my injector head is smashed as well?
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post #24 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Got the injector out, it's been hit as well now, I'm going to try and scope the bore and valves now. unfortunately it's probably full of oil cause I didn't drain the rail prior to removing the injector. Turbo must not have ingested the fragments yet cause it seemed to spin well without any shaft play. I suppose it could have, but I'll find out soon enough
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post #25 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like I found the rest of the tip is jambed in the bottom of the cup, it's stopping me from gaining access to the bore or installing a new injector. I guess I'll need to order a cup removal and install tool
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post #26 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
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Ok I ordered a tool from eBay >160 miles away hoping the seller ships it out fast. Ive been doing some research and what makes sense is dirty fuel. Right now I'm at 170,000 miles. Like a year ago I dropped to fuel tank for fuel filters, hutch/harpoon. Diesel site sold a 200$ in tank filter delete to frame rail conversion. At the time I brought the truck down to E with low fuel lite, and I drove 20 miles and dropped a empty tank. My luck the jerk before me had a fuel pickup fall apart and fixed it himself, by bending the fuel level arm up to ignore the bottom 10 gallons. The last bit looked dirty and I wasn't prepared to drain 10-15 gallons of diesel. Oh well I have a giant pre filter on the rail now. I figured it was being all filtered out, which I replaced during my last filter change.

Apparently dirty fuel clogs the tip and it expands/ breaks some times dropping part of the tip in the cylinder. Which can cause serious engine damage.

Not sure, if it was associated with the knocking sound previously, cause I didn't have smoking before. As I dig in
Might be worth going with a black cps. As a cylinder contribution test would be better working on 8 cylinders. And probably almost toasted my engine
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post #27 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 11:28 AM
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Wonder how that happened? Lost a crank bearing? Something is sloppy, piston down. Piston to valve, can happen. Piston to injector and glow plug. I could see the injector explosion theory , but the chances its pieces caused the glow plug to bend are pretty unlikely. Possible I guess. Im thinking Piston must have exceeded its upper limit, meaning issue down low. OR, injector, and glow plug installed too low??? That's tough to do. Is there a gasket between the head and block? If the gaskets there, can't see how all that could happen without a sloppy piston.

Glad you found your issue. Or did you?

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
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post #28 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Well I couldn't get the Injector tip out, I scoped it out and it was stuck in the head just below the cup. I left the cup in and did what a crazy person might do and clear the opening with a screw driver and a hammer, I couldn't recover anything I think my scope is the exact size of the opening, and what ever was left of the injector tip is presumably being vaporized little by little, my smoke is dropping off quickly I only have about a mile on it. I'm waiting for night. Maybe my remaining fuel/oil in the tail pipe will smoke off looking like fog.

As for the truck, I'm not sure how long I'll keep it now. I have a 4500# fifth wheel and a 3000# boat. I can probably get something smaller. That runs on gas. That I can easily have professionals work on. Or if it survives with minimal damage
And makes it another 70,000 miles maybe I'll get another engine and transmission. I'll just keep monitoring any blowby. And plan for the worst. If it bounces around and crumbles with heat I might be lucky and it'll exhaust out and not instantly kill the turbo. As for the original knocking sound it vanished with the injector replacement. I did hear the injector tip bouncing around a little, it was very quiet and might have already past, it to early to tell
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post #29 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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50 mile road tested, I think air bubbles are finally out of the head now. I think the injector tip was vaporized. I'd hear very soft sounds from it that blended with injector noises I believe, then every 5 minutes a quiet tick or so. Seemed to have stopped about 20 miles in, and pretty sure I heard the tip spit into the exhaust manifold during a 90 mph run, and maybe into the turbo, half expected a instant turbo failure, or a 7.3 that spilled all over the road. Its getting late and my nieghbors like to sleep at night. I'll check the crank case for blowby tomorrow and I might take it for another late run tomorrow too. the exhaust let's out a light contrail of grey smoke on heavy acceleration wot only. I believe I still have some diesel in the muffler still burning off. I don't see any more fluids dripping from the exhaust and inner tailpipe tip
looked like carbon build up and no longer a wet dark oily diesel mixture. Since the first wot with the new injector the turbo Has been singing, I might end up getting another 7 new injectors if I don't hear or see any terrible results from the injector tip. Thanks too everyone for there advice, it helped calm my nerves. I'm probably going to post a video of the original Sound from footage I recorded with my cell phone in from ten places of the engine compartment(the noise showed up two weeks before the heavy smoke did), if anyone gets a similar issue it might help them quickly identify it. I just want to be sure I have my issues fixed. Before I make false or confusing statements. If I had properly identified the issue two weeks ago, the injector tip might have come out with the injectors unbroken.
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post #30 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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In case anyone finds this topic later with similar issues. I figured I better mention in my stupidity I forgot to check the oil level after the injector change. It Looked to be about a gallon over filled, probably diesel cause I didn't drain the head. I was starting to wonder why I still had some smoke(only at full throttle) and a rough running truck after 100 miles from the injector change. I'm assuming the hpop was fed aerated oil/diesel which probably didn't help get the air out of the head.

I went back to regular synthetic oil without the striction eliminator. Looking at my maintenance logs she is on her 3rd oil change in just 5,000 miles each time the oil was super black. Mean while the engine was internally very clean. So far it's been about 80 miles and I havent heard the injector nozzle so the legendary 7.3 might have survived hell. I'll probably give it a bit more time and order stuff for a compression test. And the other 7 injectors. I just want to make sure is smooths out.

When I buzz test with forscan it all sounds good with the #8 being a little louder(new). Then it gives me codes for high low on #2,#4,#6,#8 I unplugged those individually to find my broken injector, all drivers side. Since all has been plugged back tried to clear them but they show up again. Could a damaged oring trigger that? Aerated head(2 miles since oil change after injector change(100mi) oil was about 1 gallon over? ForScan issue? Maybe oil on individual injector connectors from being unplugged (Gave a few revs with valve covers off splashed in oil?)
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