Mystery serpentine belt squeak - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Mystery serpentine belt squeak

Yesterday my serpentine belt started squeaking again. I replaced the belt 4 weeks ago with a new Motorcraft one. The old belt looked fine which confused me on why it was sqeaking. 2 days ago on my way home, I slammed on my breaks to test them out and once I let off of the breaks the serpentine belt was squeaking, increasing with the RPMs. (Which made no sense unless I dislodged the PS pulley). I took off the belt again and checked the pulleys, they all seem fine besides the Power steering pulley, which I can pull in and out 1-2mm. Is this normal? I feel like this is causing the belt to ride on one side of the water pump pulley resulting in a squeak. The pulley had play like this in it since I replaced the belt, which confuses me on why it just started squeaking recently. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks, Josh.

Early 1999 F250 XLT 7.3l 4x4
252,000 miles and increasing
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post #2 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 07:06 PM
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A little end play in the PS pump shaft is normal.
You might have to recheck your belt tensioner. You said in another thread that you'd checked the pulleys, but they are the most prone to going bad.
I have had alternator bearings squeal on first startup when it was cold out, then "heal itself" after it warmed up. It could be a bearing issue. Maybe you were on the ragged edge of a pulley bearing going bad last time you checked and it's now much worse.

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post #3 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, I think I may just replace the tensioner and idler this next week to see if that resolved the issues. I'm just confused on why it didn't squeak for 4 weeks or so after I got the new belt on and now its starting to squeak again.

Early 1999 F250 XLT 7.3l 4x4
252,000 miles and increasing
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post #4 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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Update- now I'm thinking that it's the water pump especially since there is a coolant leak in the front. Would explain the squeak as well especially if one of the bearing is going out.

Early 1999 F250 XLT 7.3l 4x4
252,000 miles and increasing
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post #5 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 12:43 AM
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As long as you are changing the water pump, I would go ahead and change the thermostat, thermostat housing, tensioner, and idler, and check the fan clutch.

2001 F350 XLT 4X4 crew cab, dual rear wheels, long bed, black, 7.3l turbo diesel, automatic transmission, 4.10, shift on the fly, running boards, sliding rear window, 38 gal fuel tank, Odyssey extreme 65-PC1750T batteries, Michelin LTX-MS2 rear tires, Sumitomo Encounter front tires, Shell Rotella Ultra elc, 11,500 gvwr, 20,000 gcwr, 7500 gvw, completely stock, 114,000 miles when purchased, now has 250,000 miles, repairs so far: two starters, batteries, cps, brakes, tires, alternator, ball joints, locking hub, wheel hub, AC compressor, serpentine belt, power steering pump, driver's side window, ignition switch, o-ring, Spectra premium radiator, water pump, fan clutch, fan blades, thermostat, thermostat housing, tensioner. Stolen twice so far, but recovered both times with major damage.

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post #6 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 01:03 AM
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Water Pump.

Airtex 4114.

https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-AW4114.../dp/B001LTVHD8


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #7 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 12:31 PM
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AHHH Memories! While you have it all apart and putting in fresh coolant, may I suggest also adding a coolant filter?

https://www.dieselsite.com/1996-2003...terpump-1.aspx


This is what I did when I had to replace the pump on my 99 Dually. Though back then it wasn't attached to the water pump like they have now. Pretty neat too.

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post #8 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 01:35 PM
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A thorough search through TDS archives might be beneficial before starting your water pump replacement— here’s a copy from a 2012 post on TDS of what was previously mentioned here and a similar “squealing sound”



“Fan Clutches Check your fan clutch! I am reasonably confident my pump failed due to a bad fan clutch. At 280,000 miles, I cannot complain to much about this, but the water pump only had about 60,000 miles on it. Around 2300 RPMs, there was an intermittent squealing noise I could never isolate. The squeal is now gone, and the turbo's sweet song is much more pronounced. My wife even commented the truck sounds different. She knows the sound of m truck, and can normally tell when I am close to the house. She was surprised when I walked in the door after first making the repairs, because the truck sounded so different. I guess the fan clutch died a slow enough death I never recognized how much different it sounded.”

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post #9 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 01:39 PM
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Below is copy of the “post” it came from—a lot of other good info too.....


Apr 04, 2012 #1
Navistar / IH Water Pump Upgrade


Post edit: what I should have said is “a reference to the posts title” and not copy

2002 F350 7.3L / 4R100 - 4WD CC DRW 8 Box, AIH Delete, Gauges- Pyro, Trans Temp, Boost, Fuel Pressure, TS-6 tuner, Zoodad Mod, Mishimoto 31 row Trans cooler, Mobil 1 ATF, Trans return line ATF filter, Hutch/Harpoon Mod, Air Lift Load Lifter 5000 rear air springs, Rancho 9000 shocks, Timbrens on the front.

Last edited by Big Horn; 10-23-2019 at 04:54 PM.
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post #10 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 02:12 PM
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That's why I recommended that he check the fan clutch, because when my fan clutch went out, it took the water pump out with it. Maybe that is what is happening to him also. Hopefully, he will catch it in time before it takes out the radiator and fan blades also.

2001 F350 XLT 4X4 crew cab, dual rear wheels, long bed, black, 7.3l turbo diesel, automatic transmission, 4.10, shift on the fly, running boards, sliding rear window, 38 gal fuel tank, Odyssey extreme 65-PC1750T batteries, Michelin LTX-MS2 rear tires, Sumitomo Encounter front tires, Shell Rotella Ultra elc, 11,500 gvwr, 20,000 gcwr, 7500 gvw, completely stock, 114,000 miles when purchased, now has 250,000 miles, repairs so far: two starters, batteries, cps, brakes, tires, alternator, ball joints, locking hub, wheel hub, AC compressor, serpentine belt, power steering pump, driver's side window, ignition switch, o-ring, Spectra premium radiator, water pump, fan clutch, fan blades, thermostat, thermostat housing, tensioner. Stolen twice so far, but recovered both times with major damage.

2005 Nomad Rampage toyhauler made by Skyline. 11,500lb gvwr.
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post #11 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonWarkentin View Post
That's why I recommended that he check the fan clutch, because when my fan clutch went out, it took the water pump out with it. Maybe that is what is happening to him also. Hopefully, he will catch it in time before it takes out the radiator and fan blades also.
Don, I’m not sure myself what is involved in checking the fan clutch. Is it inspecting for cracks, clutch engagement, ? Maybe someone can expand a little on what to check and look for.

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post #12 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 08:54 PM
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I have had a squeak that I couldn't locate, replaced bad water pump, power steering, tensioner, idler pulley, belts etc it would always come back until I stumbled upon a video that mentioned the Water pump pulley, since replacing the pulley the squeaking is gone! hope this helps I ordered an oem through riff raff
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post #13 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 10:10 PM
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I forgot about the fan clutch. I remember those posts now.

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post #14 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 10:32 PM
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You’ve got to be kidding!!!! Like I’ve got time for this....Lol ,but straight off TDS as follows:



08:18 PM 01-24-2007 #6
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Quote:
I think the fan is running all the time?
Yes, it "runs" all the time. The fan clutch is a viscous clutch, filled with a synthetic high-viscosity oil. So even when that viscous clutch is "slipping" it's still drawing a horse or two worth of power from the engine to pull lots of air through the radiators and coolers. When it locks up under full song, it uses about 27 horses from the engine to pull a hurricane through the radiator and coolers.
Quote:
The workshop manual includes tests to determine if the fan clutch is operating properly. At the risk of boring most of the others to death, here's what it says:
Quote:
Fan Clutch Test
NOTE: The following test does not apply to the 6.0L diesel. For the 6.0L diesel, refer to the Powertrain Control / Emmisions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual. Spin the fan blade (8600) by hand. A light resistance should be felt. If there is no resistance or very high resistance, the minimum and maximum fan speeds must be checked as follows: Fan Clutch Test — Minimum Speed Requirement
Use a suitable marker to mark the coolant pump pulley (8509), one of the fan blade retaining bolts and the crankshaft pulley (6312). Connect a tachometer to the engine. Install a throttle adjusting tool. Connect the Digital Photoelectric Tachometer. WARNING: To avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the vehicle, do not operate the engine until the fan blade has been first examined for possible cracks and separation. Start the engine and run it at approximately 1,500 rpm until the normal operating temperature has been achieved. Operate the strobe light at 3600 rpm for 7.3L diesel engines, and aim it at the coolant pump pulley. Adjust the engine speed until the light flash and the coolant pump pulley mark are synchronized. Aim the strobe light at the fan blade bolts. Adjust the strobe light until the light flash is synchronized with the marked fan blade bolt (the fan blade appears to stand still). The fan blade speed must not be greater than 2,000 rpm on 7.3L engines. Turn the engine off. If the fan blade speed was greater than 2.000 rpm on 7.3L diesel engines, install a new fan clutch (8A616). Fan Clutch Test — Maximum Speed Requirement
Perform Steps 1 through 5 of the Fan Clutch Test—Minimum Speed Requirement. NOTE: The temperature of the air hitting the fan clutch should be above 96C (205F) for maximum fan speed.
Block off areas on each side of the radiator in the engine compartment and the front of the radiator grille (8200). This will raise the temperature of the air striking the fan clutch and should cause the fan blade to operate at maximum speed. Place the climate control function selector switch in the MAX A/C position and the blower motor switch in the HI position. Adjust the strobe to 3,600 rpm for 7.3L diesel engines. WARNING: To avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the vehicle, do not operate the engine until the fan blade has been first examined for possible cracks and separation. Start the engine and adjust the engine speed until the strobe light flash and the coolant pump pulley mark are synchronized. Aim the strobe light at the fan blade retaining bolts. Adjust the strobe light until the light flash is synchronized with the marked fan blade bolt (the fan blade appears to stand still). If the fan blade speed is less than 2,850 rpm on 7.3L engines, install a new fan clutch.
So the kicker is that in order to properly test the fan clutch, you have to get the engine hot enough that the air going through the radiator and hitting the front of the fan must be up to 205 F., so the fan clutch will lock. With the fan clutch locked and you making the engine scream at 3,600 RPM, the fan speed should be at least 2,850 RPM.
Now folks, that is one very noisy test. :widegrin:

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post #15 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 10:58 PM
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Don't run the engine at 3600 RPM (that's not even possible unless you've got a tune that overrides the rev limiter).
What you do is increase engine speed so the WATER PUMP PULLEY is spinning at 3600 RPM. Because of the difference in size between the water pump pulley and the crank pulley, the water pump spins significantly faster than the crankshaft.

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