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'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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no power

I am new to the form but I need some help if you will I have a 2000 f350 7.3 it loses power when I accelerate my ibr is 10%and my icp is at 700 at idle but when I push the accelerator my pressure starts to clime to 1100t0 2000 then my ibr goes to 64% and my icp drops to 800 and it wont pull then it shifts and and starts all over again now I replaced the icp with one off a working engine and the ibr as well but no change I put a gage on my fuel its 100psi constant under power I alse replaced all the o rings my injectors any help will be appreciated I need to add that the truck doesn't smoke at all even under heavy acceleration but it used to I don't remember when it stopped I also replaced all the wiring on the engine the truck wouldn't start in the cold and I changed the glow plugs and all the wiring in the valve covers

Last edited by dragonwagon; 02-16-2019 at 10:14 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 11:13 PM
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I am new to the form but I need some help if you will I have a 2000 f350 7.3 it loses power when I accelerate my ibr is 10%and my icp is at 700 at idle but when I push the accelerator my pressure starts to clime to 1100t0 2000 then my ibr goes to 64% and my icp drops to 800 and it wont pull then it shifts and and starts all over again now I replaced the icp with one off a working engine and the ibr as well but no change I put a gage on my fuel its 100psi constant under power I alse replaced all the o rings my injectors any help will be appreciated I need to add that the truck doesn't smoke at all even under heavy acceleration but it used to I don't remember when it stopped I also replaced all the wiring on the engine the truck wouldn't start in the cold and I changed the glow plugs and all the wiring in the valve covers


Well ipr going to 64% means you have a high pressure oil leak some wear. Could be a bad o-ring could be from cutting a o-ring from installing the injectors. Could be the ipr o-ring could be the ipr plunger getting stuck. Is the tin nut tight holding the coil on the ipr. What parts did you use I hope all Ford parts cheap aftermarket parts will just cause problems for you.


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 07:42 AM
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Don't agree on the after market parts, built my whole motor with aftermarket parts, and they weren't cheap either. Now the best motor I ever built. One thing a lot of amateur installers do wrong is forgetting to install the real tiny plugs for the rails, inside the valve covers. Or don't put enough torque on them and they come out and leak. They are the ones you remove to drain the rails. If you forgot those, you have an oil leak you will never see. Your ICP is 700 at idle is way too high. It should be 485-495psi. Could be the pump compensating for the leak. Probably not. My new injectors took a real long time to break in if you will. They even smoked for many miles, then cleaned out. Injector cleaner is your friend, especially with new injectors. Hope you didn't reduce or increase any of the wire sizes when you made your new harness, or that's gonna cause a whole lot of problems. You can change wire sizes on a stereo or accessory, but not the engine harness or sensor wires.

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 08:15 AM
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One more note, and a serious one, upon re reading. Your fuel pressure is at least 40psi too high. Should be happy around 55psi. There is a good chance you have fuel bypassing the injector seals with that high a pressure, and surely its effecting the injectors firing correctly. SO, unless you have a regulated return system with a regulator that's turned up too high, then you have a fuel pressure issue. The stock system should not be able to exceed 60psi, unless the spring and balls have been removed from the fuel bowl regulators inside the ends of the fuel lines. They keep the pressure in check and must be broken or gone if you get that much pressure with no regulated return. Good chance this is why its idling so high.

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
1999 Mustang GT Convertible Anniversary, rare stock electric green
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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I put wiring off a nother engine i have tgat ran good till i reacked it i also put the ipr out of that moter on this one this is the problum i was haveing os the resen i put now orings in and no change i torked all the bolts in the injectors to the specs
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 07:50 PM
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Hope you didn't reduce or increase any of the wire sizes when you made your new harness, or that's gonna cause a whole lot of problems. You can change wire sizes on a stereo or accessory, but not the engine harness or sensor wires.
I have to call BS on that. There's no way that the electronics in the system are going to be more than marginally affected by a slight change in wire resistance due to wire size changes. Just isn't going to happen. The wire resistance (or even inductance) is a microscopic part of the circuit overall.


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One more note, and a serious one, upon re reading. Your fuel pressure is at least 40psi too high. Should be happy around 55psi. There is a good chance you have fuel bypassing the injector seals with that high a pressure, and surely its effecting the injectors firing correctly. SO, unless you have a regulated return system with a regulator that's turned up too high, then you have a fuel pressure issue. The stock system should not be able to exceed 60psi, unless the spring and balls have been removed from the fuel bowl regulators inside the ends of the fuel lines. They keep the pressure in check and must be broken or gone if you get that much pressure with no regulated return. Good chance this is why its idling so high.
Correct. 100 psi is way to high. Many have found the sweet spot at around 65 psi.
If your system is stock, look inside the return fitting for something clogging the port going from the filter cannister to the return fitting. If it's plugged, the fuel pressure will spike, and eventually kill the fuel pump.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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I am going tl check the reten for a restriction to bring it down some
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Can some one explain to me why the truck doesn't smoke at all when it did under acceleration when i first got it and the truck dos not miss at all but i appreciate all the insight i started all this because it would not start cold so i changed tha clow plugs and the wires in the valve covers then i cha ged the ipr i then changet the cam sencer fownd the keeper broke so i changed all the wiring on the engine still no change it idles good and runns good now i rechecked my icp at idle its between 400 and 500 st 9 tp 14% but when i throttle up on park goes up to 2000 on the icp and runns great i start to go in drive and i open it up my ipr goes to 64% and my ipc drops to about 800 and falls on its face so then i checked the fuel pressure and thats when i found 100psi hofully i explaind it better this time i am hopefully not going to have to by a hpop is whare i am thinking is next or just changing the motor out with the other one
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 06:28 AM
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Good that you re used another harness, don't want to trace a bunch of gremlins caused by poor wire choices. Fuel pressure is still high. Don't know what the mileage on the donor truck is, but that IPR could be pooched as well. Common for them to wear out. I'm on my 3rd one. Still seems like a leak.

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Doner truck has 243000 and the main truck i dont know the body has 315000 but was told the moter in it only has about 100000 but you know how that goes
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 12:55 PM
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Could try taking the entire fuel bowl assembly off the donor truck and install on this truck. Or use the check ball and springs out of the donor bowl and change out those. I think you have high fuel pressure, by way of restricted volume. Reason it falls on its face under load. Changing the whole bowl would fix any other issue in that area as well. Like if there is something jammed in the channel before the check balls. Then check your fuel pressure again. If it normalizes, then you should have restored your volume, and it should go. By theory. Lol

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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I am going to try and check for something in the retern line first
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-19-2019, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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I fixed the fuel pressure problem. The spring was bent sidways holding it shut i noe have 50 to 60 at idle and 50 wot so i am going to order a new ipr and icp and try them
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