No response from accelerator - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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No response from accelerator

Could use a little help with my 01 f350. Sometimes I get no response from my gas pedal at idle and have to push the pedal a couple times before it will rev the engine. This has also happened a few times when I let off the pedal at slow speeds. While it’s happening the check engine light will come on and once the gas pedal starts working properly, it will go off. Thanks for any help.
Thanks.

01 F-350 7.3 crewcab,longbed, Lariat, 4" DPPI 4 inch exhaust, severe air intake, Sonnax/Tricumulator, Prodigy brake controller and Rhino bedliner.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 01:51 PM
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A scan tool will tell you what's wrong, but most likely, your Idle Validation Switch on the Accelerator Pedal assembly is sticking. The pedal assembly comes out easily, and has two electrical connectors on it. The connector with 2 pins goes to the IVS and the 3-pin connector goes to the AP Position Sensor. I would pull the assembly out and hit the IVS (and the APPS -can't hurt) with some electrical contact cleaner. Reinstall and see if that fixes up your problem.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Iíll look that way. I did check and it shows no codes were thrown.

01 F-350 7.3 crewcab,longbed, Lariat, 4" DPPI 4 inch exhaust, severe air intake, Sonnax/Tricumulator, Prodigy brake controller and Rhino bedliner.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 05:17 PM
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I did check and it shows no codes were thrown.
What did you use for a code reader? The generic ones won't work on your truck. It takes a PSD capable scan tool. If the Check Engine Light was on, there WILL be a code stored.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Oh. Okay, Iíll see if I can find one. I did take off the pedal assembly and I have only one five pin connector on it. I cleaned the contacts and see if that cures the problem. Thanks.

01 F-350 7.3 crewcab,longbed, Lariat, 4" DPPI 4 inch exhaust, severe air intake, Sonnax/Tricumulator, Prodigy brake controller and Rhino bedliner.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 08:30 PM
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I did take off the pedal assembly and I have only one five pin connector on it.
Hmm, I could have sworn the '01 still had the pedal with two connectors.
Quite a few guys use AutoEnginuity that runs on a laptop. About $360 for the Ford Enhanced package which you'll need.
What needs to be cleaned is the pivot point on the actual switch, as opposed to the connector pins.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Again thanks for the info. Iíll take it back off and clean the pivot point.

01 F-350 7.3 crewcab,longbed, Lariat, 4" DPPI 4 inch exhaust, severe air intake, Sonnax/Tricumulator, Prodigy brake controller and Rhino bedliner.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 06:11 AM
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Hmm, I could have sworn the '01 still had the pedal with two connectors.
Quite a few guys use AutoEnginuity that runs on a laptop. About $360 for the Ford Enhanced package which you'll need.
What needs to be cleaned is the pivot point on the actual switch, as opposed to the connector pins.
Forscan has the IVR on it and its $5.00 + a good bluetooth scanner.



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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klhansen View Post
Hmm, I could have sworn the '01 still had the pedal with two connectors.
Quite a few guys use AutoEnginuity that runs on a laptop. About $360 for the Ford Enhanced package which you'll need.
What needs to be cleaned is the pivot point on the actual switch, as opposed to the connector pins.
I have an 01 Excursion and it has one connector. When that IVS is FUBAR, you replace the entire thing.

01 Excursion 7.3L Powerstroke. Gauges with AIH Delete, AIS, CCV Mod, 4' MBRP, BTS Trans, 6.0L Trans Cooler and Intercooler, DP-Tuner F5 chip, ITP In Tank Mod and Boost Annihilator, Diesel Innovation's Regulated Fuel kit, BTS Big Oil system, GTP38R Turbo with 1.15 A/R housing and BPD Stage II AC injectors. Bilstein Shocks with U code front and A code Rear.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 08:44 AM
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So I recently had some issues where my truck would stall while I was running. The stall would occur and the SES light would come ON immediately (or maybe the light was ON already). I could depress my clutch pedal and the engine would go to idle and no throttle response. The engine would not stop. A second or two later, the light would turn OFF and throttle response was normal.



The issue got a little worse and sometime it would stutter without the SES light coming ON.


I stopped by my local diesel mechanic and they ran a scan. They were able to see a Low Battery (I had to replace both the week before) and nothing else. They suggested the Throttle Position Sensor. Okay, mine is an '00 and it was an OEM part, the whole assembly pedal, Idle Validation Switch and TPS. It was a $428 assembly.



No issues since then and I did notice no lag when I lightly depress the pedal taking off from a stop light.

'00 F250 XLT 4x4 (born on 6/00), manual tranny & hubs, SPA Techniques EGT/Boost Gauge, Homemade Return Fuel Regulator, Toro Liner, 203* T-stat and Coolant Filter, LUK Clutch, flywheel & pressure plate, Amsoil Dual Bypass Filter
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
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So I recently had some issues where my truck would stall while I was running. The stall would occur and the SES light would come ON immediately (or maybe the light was ON already). I could depress my clutch pedal and the engine would go to idle and no throttle response. The engine would not stop. A second or two later, the light would turn OFF and throttle response was normal.



The issue got a little worse and sometime it would stutter without the SES light coming ON.


I stopped by my local diesel mechanic and they ran a scan. They were able to see a Low Battery (I had to replace both the week before) and nothing else. They suggested the Throttle Position Sensor. Okay, mine is an '00 and it was an OEM part, the whole assembly pedal, Idle Validation Switch and TPS. It was a $428 assembly.



No issues since then and I did notice no lag when I lightly depress the pedal taking off from a stop light.
At one point the pedal assemblies were on national back order and the price shot up to around $800. I bought one for my truck years ago, brand new OEM for $129 and carry it with me when travelling, so far have never needed it.


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02 F350 4x4 CREW 7.3 170K, BFG Rugged Terrain 285s, AIS, Isspro pyro, boost & tranny temp pillar pod, Dipricol coolant temp, ELC, Isspro EV-2 Fuel Pressure & HPOP, Dieselsite boots, coolant & tranny filters & 203* Stat, 6.0 Tranny Cooler, ITP pre pump tank mod, Bellowed Up Pipes, Riffraff Frx, netbook mount with AE, GPR LED, Stancor, Red Head steering gear, Battery Tender & 2 Marincos.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 10:57 AM
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At one point the pedal assemblies were on national back order and the price shot up to around $800. I bought one for my truck years ago, brand new OEM for $129 and carry it with me when travelling, so far have never needed it.
If we determine the time value of money, mine was still cheaper.

'00 F250 XLT 4x4 (born on 6/00), manual tranny & hubs, SPA Techniques EGT/Boost Gauge, Homemade Return Fuel Regulator, Toro Liner, 203* T-stat and Coolant Filter, LUK Clutch, flywheel & pressure plate, Amsoil Dual Bypass Filter
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 12:21 PM
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If we determine the time value of money, mine was still cheaper.


Maybe, but if I would ever need it on one of my frequent trips into Mexico it would be priceless. Or anywhere else where parts are hard to come by.


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02 F350 4x4 CREW 7.3 170K, BFG Rugged Terrain 285s, AIS, Isspro pyro, boost & tranny temp pillar pod, Dipricol coolant temp, ELC, Isspro EV-2 Fuel Pressure & HPOP, Dieselsite boots, coolant & tranny filters & 203* Stat, 6.0 Tranny Cooler, ITP pre pump tank mod, Bellowed Up Pipes, Riffraff Frx, netbook mount with AE, GPR LED, Stancor, Red Head steering gear, Battery Tender & 2 Marincos.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 11:16 PM
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Intermittent no-go with cruise

Background: as my steering wheel cruise control buttons gradually fail, I use the brakes to drop out of cruise. A week ago I'd tap the brakes, then find that (sometimes) the accelerator was unresponsive and the SES was on (P0221 code). Get out of cruise or bang on the accelerator pedal, then it works. Well, not good, too many cases where a no-go accel could cause a crash (like up a steep hill from a stop with an idiot tailgater roach behind). Not using cruise control, everything works fine, no accelerator pedal problems.



So I find the part numbers for 2001-2003 7.3L (post 10/2000 build if I recall correctly):

Dorman aftermarket, poor reliability based on reviews: 699-203
APDTY aftermarket, poor reliability based on reviews: 700314

Standard Auto Parts, no bad reviews (lifetime A1AutoParts): APS103

OE original PN (discontinued, NOS is extremely expensive): 1C3Z-9F836-BA (or -C)

OE replacement seems to be:

-- bracket: 5C3Z-9C803-AA

-- pedal+sensor: EC3Z-9F836-A

-- just the sensor if that goes bad for the above: F4SZ-9B989-AA



Well, I'd rather get the Ford OE replacement for the original parts even though the cost is about 30-40 more than APS103 at this time. Forget Dorman or APDTY, too many "goes bads after 50-100 hours" type comments, loss of accel pedal is disturbing especially if the spouse is driving I'll never hear the end of using aftermarket parts. But, the connector has 10 pins, same shell appearance; the original connector is 10 pin sized but only has 5 pins, one row of the two rows.



So, if you have managed to get this far, will the EC3Z-9F836-A plug and go in a 2001 F350 built in 2001? Do I need some kind of weird adapter connector like I had to get for the hydroboost, which Ford did not mention until I discovered that the connectors don't match kind of leaving me stranded in the land of partially complete repairs?


If I don't get an answer I'll buy the Ford parts and find out and post the results... I can't be the first one to go down this path.



Thanks.



And a story of the cruise control buttons. As the "stop cruise" button got less and less reliable, I'd tend to repeatedly press the button, and after a short time of ineffectiveness then mash the cruise button and press the brake pedal. One time, and one time only, this pattern of mashing the "stop cruise" and then hitting the brake at the same time resulted in the ECU trying to stay in cruise while I had the brakes applied!!! Yes, in traffic, no crash. Somewhat hair raising to be pressing harder and harder on the brakes while the engine pushes harder and harder to maintain speed. Let up on the brakes and pressed again, the cruise dropped out, but I stopped using the cruise buttons to exit cruise after that... I have replacement buttons to install if I ever get around to it (new OE buttons, one expensive little box of buttons and wires, not questionable reliability aged buttons off eBay.).
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