Oil change int. - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-16-2007, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Oil change int.

Running 10w30 rotella. I've only had this truck 1.5 years and last changed oil about 9m ago. It isn't a daily driver, I use it to tow a 7000 lb TT during the summer. I have 5k on this oil and it still looks clean on the dip stick, not at all like the oil in my diesel lawn tractor.

Is this "visual" inspection deceiving, or am I just being a lazy cheap ass thinking it doesn't need to be changed yet? I know oil is the life blood of the turbo or at least think I remember reading that here.

Please advise

Thanks,

J

1999.5, F350, Crew Cab, SRD, 4x2, BTM exhaust, AIS with sleeve, 203 Therm & housing, coolant filter, Red Rotella ELC, Magnefine trans. filter, Mag-Hytec rear diff cover , Turbo Master, CCV Mod.
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post #2 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-16-2007, 07:49 PM
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Re: Oil change int.

Why are you using a 10W-30 viscosity? 15W-40 is the recommended viscosity this time of year. Keep in mind that higher viscosity oils tend to give you better protection, particularly when towing in summer temps.

You can't judge your oil change interval by the color of the oil. Your PSD has a completely different fuel injection system and combustion characteristics than your lawn tractor.

You could have the oil analyzed to see how the engine is dealing with your interval, but 5K miles towing is probably a good time to change it. I would. PSD's like fresh, clean oil. FWIW, Ford recommends 3K miles under your conditions, 5K miles under normal conditions.
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post #3 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-16-2007, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Oil change int.

I'm using 10w30 so I don't have to change it out for the winter. I try and drive the truck once or twice in each month in the winter to keep things lubricated and batteries charged. Wasn't sure how well 15-40 would do in the winter.

What's the lesser evil, hard starts/no starts in winter or less protection in the summer?

JJ

1999.5, F350, Crew Cab, SRD, 4x2, BTM exhaust, AIS with sleeve, 203 Therm & housing, coolant filter, Red Rotella ELC, Magnefine trans. filter, Mag-Hytec rear diff cover , Turbo Master, CCV Mod.
Gauges- Boost, Trans, EGT. ITP Reg. Return. Int. Bellowed up-pipes. ITP in-tank mods. Air Dog. DP Tuner-Stock, 40T, Decel, 60T, 80e, high idle, high idle EBPV, BTS Bubba

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post #4 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-16-2007, 09:37 PM
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Re: Oil change int.

I have been using Rottela 15w-40 year round with no problems. It's best to use the recommended oil. IMHO

Early 99, 6/98 F250 CC Shorty, 4" lift, AFE stage 1, SCT chip(not sure of the burn),triple pillar ISSPRO Guages, Toyo 285/75-16's (bought it this way) CCV Mod, new carrier bearing shimmed 3/4"SOLD!!!! F150 now.


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post #5 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-16-2007, 09:39 PM
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Re: Oil change int.

I did not even know Rotella came in that flavor.

Andy
Early 99 5-98, F350 extended cab, DRW LB 245,000 miles and counting, Hood insulation delete (Soaked with fuel), Hutch mod, Harpoon mod. Otherwise, pure stock (for now)

You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #6 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-17-2007, 01:14 AM
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Re: Oil change int.

[ QUOTE ]
What's the lesser evil, hard starts/no starts in winter or less protection in the summer?

[/ QUOTE ]

You can have the best of both worlds if you just take 10 minutes to change the oil. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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post #7 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-17-2007, 07:35 AM
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Re: Oil change int.

I agree with Gooch, just change to the 30 weight when winter comes, no matter the miles. It is just $$ and not a whole lot either if you do it yourself. If you are going to go over 5K ontervals I would have a analysis done, but for the cost of it, you have 1/2 a oil change? Choose your poison. Everytime I send in a 5K sample they tell me I can easily go to 7500 but I change it at 5 anyway, I just want the rest of the info they provide, it is a great service.

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post #8 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-17-2007, 07:46 AM
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Re: Oil change int.

[ QUOTE ]
Is this "visual" inspection deceiving, or am I just being a lazy cheap ass thinking it doesn't need to be changed yet?

[/ QUOTE ]

The only way to know for certain is to pull a sample of the oil and have it analyzed. So until oil analysis says different, change the oil at 5,000 miles.

Since your oil still looks good at 5,000 miles, right now would be the perfect time to drain the oil and pull a sample and send it to Blackstone. Then in the future you'll know whether you can exceed the 5,000-mile oil change interval.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/diesel_engines.html

Also, click here for the test kit you'll need for your first oil sample.

But you certainly don't want to tow in the summertime with 10w30 oil.

[ QUOTE ]
What's the lesser evil, hard starts/no starts in winter or less protection in the summer?

[/ QUOTE ]

Run 15w40 year 'round. Then since you don't drive it much in the wintertime, store it near enough to an electrical plug so when temps are below freezing you can use an extension cord and plug in the block heater for a few hours before you crank it. Or if it's not convenient to store it near an electrical plug, then use a small generator to plug it into for a few hours before you crank it. I have a Honda EU2000i generator that would be perfect for that application. Smaller generators than the EU2000i won't work because the block heater pulls 1,000 continuous watts. The block heater is standard on your 2001, so yes, you have one.

Or if you want to waste some money, then run synthetic 5w40 year round. Or change the oil twice a year and run 10w30 only between Thanksgiving and Easter, but 15w40 when towing in the summertime.





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My Sierra Blanca (Spanish for White Mountain) in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it several years ago. I drove a hand-me-down 2003 F-150 SuperCrew 4.6L 2V for a while, but it was unacceptable for towing more than a rowboat. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat that tows my 5,000-pound TT like a dream. Replaced the 2012 with a 2019 F-150 3.5L EcoBoost with max tow.
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post #9 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-17-2007, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Oil change int.

Ok, thanks for the education.

I'll take the 10w30 back and get the proper 15w40 and change it out.

I've never had an analysis done either, so probably as good as time as any to do that. I've got 108k mi on it now.

I'll probably try one winter on the 15w40 and see if the truck can crank and just limit my cold weather driving. I have a heated garage, so morning winter starts are not a problem, just after work when its been sitting for a while.

JJ

1999.5, F350, Crew Cab, SRD, 4x2, BTM exhaust, AIS with sleeve, 203 Therm & housing, coolant filter, Red Rotella ELC, Magnefine trans. filter, Mag-Hytec rear diff cover , Turbo Master, CCV Mod.
Gauges- Boost, Trans, EGT. ITP Reg. Return. Int. Bellowed up-pipes. ITP in-tank mods. Air Dog. DP Tuner-Stock, 40T, Decel, 60T, 80e, high idle, high idle EBPV, BTS Bubba

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post #10 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-17-2007, 02:30 PM
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Re: Oil change int.

I ran Rotella 15w40 for the last 7 winters here in Colorado and never had a problem whether or not I plugged in the block heater. We have sub-zero temps in the winter. I have recently switched to Rotella 5w40 because I like to waste money (SmokeyWren) [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] . All kidding aside on wasting money, the 5w40 seems to agree with my truck. I like it, so it is not a waste. I send my oil off to Blackstone but change it at 5k. My oil reports come back great.

Buy Ford. They're not taking bail-out money.
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post #11 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-17-2007, 08:36 PM
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Re: Oil change int.

[ QUOTE ]
I ran Rotella 15w40 for the last 7 winters here in Colorado and never had a problem whether or not I plugged in the block heater. We have sub-zero temps in the winter. I have recently switched to Rotella 5w40 because I like to waste money (SmokeyWren) [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] . All kidding aside on wasting money, the 5w40 seems to agree with my truck. I like it, so it is not a waste. I send my oil off to Blackstone but change it at 5k. My oil reports come back great.

[/ QUOTE ]
Im opposite of you I use 5w30 year round year after year and my sample says "oil is suitable for continued use" 4 years later and 40,000 miles on the same oil, going on 43,000 now [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]
I dont like wasting money I trust my UOA [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
http://www.voogru.com/images/oil2.jpg

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post #12 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-17-2007, 09:15 PM
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Re: Oil change int.

Hey sootie, don't waste your money when you're ready for an oil change....I've got some used 5W-30 with only 20K miles on it. You can run it another 23K if you want. Half price. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
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post #13 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-17-2007, 09:20 PM
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Re: Oil change int.

[ QUOTE ]
Hey sootie, don't waste your money when you're ready for an oil change....I've got some used 5W-30 with only 20K miles on it. You can run it another 23K if you want. Half price. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[/ QUOTE ]
well that may be a good deal if my UOA ever tells me to change the oil, by the looks of it so far my truck will rust away before I need to change my oil. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

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post #14 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-17-2007, 09:38 PM
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Re: Oil change int.

I am sometimes tempted to try extended oil drains but I just like clean, fresh oil. Makes me feel all warm and fuzzy when I am done. Even with Rotella syn it only costs $75 and takes all of a half an hour. I used to pay the dealer $90 for dino. I figure I am $15 ahead and I know it was done right.

Buy Ford. They're not taking bail-out money.
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F250 XLT PSD Crewcab, Longbed, 4x4, Auto, LS 3.73
Ford AIS, Frantz Bypass Oil Filter, Baldwin Bypass Coolant Filter, Fumoto Drain Valve, 203* Thermostat, Stancor
Bilstein Shocks all the way around, Timbren SES (Rear), Bridgestone Dueler Revo A/T 265/75/16
Commander Monitor (gauges), Crimestopper CS-2016 DP II FM Remote Start/Alarm/Paging/Turbo Timer/Keyless
Rotella 5W40 Oil
, Texaco ELC Coolant, Mobile 1 ATF Trans and PS


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post #15 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-17-2007, 09:39 PM
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Re: Oil change int.

[ QUOTE ]
Hey sootie, don't waste your money when you're ready for an oil change....I've got some used 5W-30 with only 20K miles on it. You can run it another 23K if you want. Half price. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[/ QUOTE ]

ROFLMAO

Buy Ford. They're not taking bail-out money.
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2000
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F250 XLT PSD Crewcab, Longbed, 4x4, Auto, LS 3.73
Ford AIS, Frantz Bypass Oil Filter, Baldwin Bypass Coolant Filter, Fumoto Drain Valve, 203* Thermostat, Stancor
Bilstein Shocks all the way around, Timbren SES (Rear), Bridgestone Dueler Revo A/T 265/75/16
Commander Monitor (gauges), Crimestopper CS-2016 DP II FM Remote Start/Alarm/Paging/Turbo Timer/Keyless
Rotella 5W40 Oil
, Texaco ELC Coolant, Mobile 1 ATF Trans and PS


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