Rotella Motor Oil - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2018, 12:05 AM
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Regardless of where you buy it if it meets the API spec you are good to go and chances are it actually originated from the same refiner.
I don’t come here to argue.
I come here for comraderie with others who enjoy their 7.3s.

If your claim that most oil brands originated at the same refiner was not to suggest they are more or less the same then what did you mean?

Because that statement is very incomplete to me since it fails to mention the more important stages downstream (at the blending & packaging plant) when different base stocks are blended and additized to meet each manufacturers specific requirements.

Here is a brief description of Base Stocks and you can see Group II, III & IV each have unique characteristics even though they may have originated at the same refinery. True the article is written for machinery lubrication but I am confident you get the gist of it.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com...ase-oil-groups

You have reiterated several times now the importance of the API rating, which is currently CK-4.

Well a 7.3 owner would be hard pressed to find an HDEO on the shelves which is not rated sufficiently for his 15 year old diesel so that is not exactly the criteria to look for. The base stocks and additives are what to look for and a person that is interested can find VOA of most brands posted over on BITOG or the Petroleum Quality Institute of America website I posted previously. That website has the additional advantage of describing what the various additives accomplish.

This is not argument. Its simple fact.


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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2018, 08:14 AM
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My supervisor who has a diesel (6.0) is telling me if I go to Rotella T6 synthetic I can never go back to Dino oil on my 7.3
What a goof. You should fire him.
Personally, from my own research, I wont run t6.
Few seem to have success with it, other trucks hate it.
Now OTOH, I don't know why you would go back to dino. But no reason you can't.

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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2018, 08:50 AM
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Dino vs Synthetic ?

While I personally don't see much benefit in running synthetic unless one plans to extend oil change intervals. I just prefer to use a natural dino oil and change more often. However, synthetics and dino oils are engineered products both good for the mechanical lubrication application. The only real difference would be effect on seals not hard parts. I have not heard of any effect on seals by going to synthetic from natural oils and then returning to natural oil, has someone else actually seen an example in a 7.3? My last company changed on a Service Managers whim to synthetics on our construction service trucks, he left and the next guy changed back to a natural oil on the fleet and no one reported to me any OMG stories.
The main thing is, keep it clean, use an API oil rated for your service and get regular oil testing, I get one every year or 3rd oil change. That test is valuable to find and correct engine killing things like bad injector O-rings leaking fuel into your oil or coolant in the oil, ineffective filtering and other conditions. I use Blackstone Labs as many here do.

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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2018, 09:37 AM
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Artic Driver

I also come here to educate myself and share information not argue. I admit it when I am wrong and see no need to argue when I am correct. I do like to be quoted correctly for accuracy.

The original poster was seeking advice and direction on this contentious branding driven subject, the right oil for his investment in a sea of what can seem like incomprehensible personal opinions. I sought only to explain how the industry works and the system and accepted Industry rating standard so that he could have confidence that by using that system he would get the right oil and have confidence in that selection. I still believe, along with the entire industry, that that the API system is correct.

The API system is used as a standard by quality product manufacturers, INCLUDING the Mobile product Delvac you indicated " My Delvac" above you use. Easy to find in Mobil Delvac specs advertised everywhere and right on every container, API not other organizations. That is why I keep going back to API.

The current CK-4 API rating (Including Delvac) is the latest in a series of oil specifications. Starting with "C". It started with C4 and has progressed through CI-4 CJ-4 to CK-4. The current CK-4 Is applicable to all preceding versions, pretty simple system. They, API and oil producers use a similar alphabetical system for other applications like automobile and gasoline engines for instance the "S" series.

I apologize to the original poster if I contributed to any confusion on what oil to use that will make him feel comfortable with his choice.

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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2018, 11:41 PM
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I use Valvoline "Premium Blue Extreme" synthetic, 5W-40.

But only 'cause it comes in a cool blue bottle, and blue is my favorite color! Oh, and is says "Blue" in the name too...

~Al
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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2018, 12:58 AM
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I use Valvoline "Premium Blue Extreme" synthetic, 5W-40.

But only 'cause it comes in a cool blue bottle, and blue is my favorite color! Oh, and is says "Blue" in the name too...

~Al
No doubt about it...that blue bottle is nice.

Thanks for making this an enjoyable thread again. 👍


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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2018, 08:18 AM
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Don't forget the bug cumminGs logo. That's gotta be worth some hp...
Side affects included but not limited to: mirrors flipped up, belching smoke, and slipping auto trans.

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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 79jasper View Post
What a goof. You should fire him.
Personally, from my own research, I wont run t6.
Few seem to have success with it, other trucks hate it.
Now OTOH, I don't know why you would go back to dino. But no reason you can't.

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I went back to dino because my high performance motor runs like crap on synthetic. Took some time to figure out, but its too thin. I searched everywhere for synthetic in 15/40, but it does not exist, at least not in Canada, but I never found it anywhere. 5/40 does not work in my motor, and immediately after changing back to dino, it was fixed. Now heres another thing to chew on. Ive used both, I change it exactly on mileage, never miss or go over. The synthetic comes out cleaner than dino. This tells me the dino does a better job, and since its never been proven synthetic lubes better, this is the second reason I went back to dino. For me synthetic claims to last longer, but I never believed that and changed at same intervals. Reason being is I've had this truck a real long time. I can tell if something is up just by how it drives or sounds. I know when I'm close to an oil change just by how loud my injectors are and the motors performance itself. And synthetic gets noisy and clicky at the same mileage, telling me it breaking down at the same relative rate as the dino. So I see no advantage at all, and my truck don't like it.


So, now the part that hurts, I'm a bit of an environmentalist by heart. Synthetic is man made and better for the environment since its easily re cycled compared to dino. So it does hurt that I am not using the better for the environment product, but the fact my truck runs like crap on it forces me to pollute, so to speak. Sorry for that. Electric cars wont tow my backhoe. lol

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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 12:22 PM
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So, now the part that hurts, I'm a bit of an environmentalist by heart. Synthetic is man made and better for the environment since its easily re cycled compared to dino. So it does hurt that I am not using the better for the environment product, but the fact my truck runs like crap on it forces me to pollute, so to speak. Sorry for that. Electric cars wont tow my backhoe. lol
That's totally incorrect!

Synthetic oils start out as/come from crude oil, JUST LIKE "REGULAR" OIL. They are just more highly modified before "becoming" the oil (base stocks) that you dump in your truck.

"Regular" oil is produced using the simpler refining methods (tower cracking) while "synthetics" are highly modified by reducing down to the molecular level, and then rearranged/reassembled to form the synthetic base stocks. If anything, it requires MORE energy (and time) to produce synthetic oil, so in the big scheme of things, you are likely polluting MORE by using it. That's one of the reasons it costs more too: It takes alot more to produce it.

Synthetic is no more recyclable (or "green") than regular base-stock (i.e. "dino") oil. The fact is, almost NO used motor oil is truly "recycled" and reused as a lubricant. It is collected, blended with other fuels, and burned for energy/electricity production. Yes, there are/were a few companies that do attempt to "re-refine" used motor oil, but not with much luck. I would never use it.


Lastly, almost everything we use in daily life has been made from, or contains something that came from: oil. Even the materials used to make the planet-saving electric cars, couldn't be made without OIL. It is truly the basis of modern life...

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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 03:14 PM
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Lol you have more research to do.

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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 05:47 PM
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Lol you have more research to do.
LOL, Really? I don't think so...

Which part? Making oil or recycling it? Perhaps a little elaboration on your part.

Unless we have come up with another source of hydrocarbons as rich as crude oil (and/or natural gas)...

"Synthetic" oil is a "man-made" material (hence the term "synthetic"), but since it is nothing but a complex hydrocarbon compound, and oil is still one of the richest sources of hydrocarbons. Crude is still the primary starting-source for synthetic base stocks. Yes, they are now converting natural gas into a super-pure oil base stock. But the process is still in its infancy and is VERY expensive. But it holds promise as the future of synthetic oil and fuels. However, natural gas is/was largely a by-product of oil production (they used to throw it away), but now it is captured and processed. More profit to be made...

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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 07:18 PM
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LOL, Really? I don't think so...
Probably not you........

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2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.


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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 07:41 AM
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Is anyone using the Harvest King motor oil sold at Rural King? On a search (another site) a thread came up that the user called Blacstone and talked to a tech who said the Harvest King was as good as any other diesel oil if scheduled maintenance (oil changes) is performed.
Harvest King is considered a decent oil for the price point but its a discount oil and not like a M1 product with exceptional additive package. I would not run extended OCI with this. Its one of those no frills lubricants you find at Ag Supply stores and is geared towards farmers who don’t want to pay more for a pretty blue bottle.

An even better manufacturer of Ag lubricants is the Mystik Product line...I think they are both Citgo products.


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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 08:31 AM
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If a injector builder explicitly states to avoid a certain oil, I'm inclined to believe it's for very good reason.

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2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.


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Could it be because they do not have the knowledge to build a proper injector that can handle the oil a stock injector can? Just poking a stick at the fireOver the years I have run several brands and types of oil. The 7.3 can be sensitive to oil weight and type. The only oil I have had foam on me after 4,000mi was Motorcraft oil. The same truck ran AMSOIL for 20,000 miles (extended drain with bypass filter) and several other oils with no problems. I had a early 7.3 that would start fine but not run well until until warm (symptoms occurred 30 degrees and colder), problem solved with changing to a lighter weight oil. I am currently running the blue stuff in my 7.3 , my 12 valve Cummins, Bobcat, ATV's and lawn mower. BMW and honda generator get mobil 1 0w40. I try to keep it down to only one or two types of oil with that many engines (also have two planes to maintain but that is another forum). I was looking at going to the T6 this year because of price but found a OK deal on the blue stuff.

When it comes to oil I would have to agree with ARTIC most properly rated should do the job. The 7.3 has always been a oil sensitive engine from the start. Lots of foaming issues back in the day, I would not be surprised to hear a rebuilt/modded injector would have issues also. So pick a oil for whatever reason, (friends advice, forum hype, brand loyal, price, whatever.) and give it a try. If the truck is not happy with it then treat it like a bad bottle of beer and get another brand.
DENNY

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  Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties > '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain

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