Running seafoam in crankcase - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Running seafoam in crankcase

1.5oz to a quart of oil. My question, how long do you run it in your oil? I was told if you put it in during a fresh oil change to just keep an eye on the dip stick and change it when the oil gets dark as the seafoam will break down sludge and cause the oil to get darker faster.

Then I was told if you put it in before an oil change to run it 300 miles... no one really had a real answer, just not to run it 3000 miles because the sludge is broke loose running through the system.

I did this is 2 of my gassers. Changed the oil in one after 6k miles and noticed lots of sludge and a small wire like Partical on the magnet that’s on the end of the drain plug. That specific gasser burns a quart of oil every 3k Miles so it was getting low when it was on 6k I just didn’t realize I was driving the truck as much as I was until I hit the trip odometer to show how far I’ve gone. Changed the oil immediately after that since I’m used to changed that vehicle every 3k. If had 205,000 on the odometer, has always burnt a little oil but the truck runs like a hot rod
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Texas_proud77836 View Post
1.5oz to a quart of oil. My question, how long do you run it in your oil? I was told if you put it in during a fresh oil change to just keep an eye on the dip stick and change it when the oil gets dark as the seafoam will break down sludge and cause the oil to get darker faster.
1. Diesel oil will almost always be black upon startup right after a fresh change. Especially a HEUI engine, as at least a few quarts of old oil stays behind. (And no, dont go worrying about that and trying to change the hpop oil lol)
2. I wouldn't use seafoam. I would use something like hot shots secret stiction eliminator. It will actually clean the engine.


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Then I was told if you put it in before an oil change to run it 300 miles... no one really had a real answer, just not to run it 3000 miles because the sludge is broke loose running through the system.
You should never have sludge in a diesel engine. Really any engine. But it seems diesels tend to stay cleaner.


Otherwise, stick to a good synthetic, a good filter, and call it a day.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Not the diesel I did it in 2 gas engines today. The only time I run seafoam in my diesel is in my fuel bowl when I do my oil changes and swap fuel filters. I’m talking about gas engines tho not the diesel. I ran seafoam in gassers 4.8 and a 6.0 vortec
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 08:16 PM
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I bet my synthetic motor oil does as much as Seafoam...just not as quick.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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I’ve always ran Castrol gtx high mileage in the gas trucks. It’s part synthetic. Ive been running that oil in them for as long as I can remember. Major sludge build up... not even sure where the piece of wire came from. Maybe the oil filter? It was like a half moon shape and real thin.

But ya I guess I should’ve labeled it in the beginning that this was on 2 gas vehicles. I’ve heard of people running seafoam in Diesel engines but like 79jasper said the oil on the dipstick in black almost immediately after driving a diesel. Either way tho, people do run it in Diesel engines... my guess before you change the oil. I wouldn’t want to do a 100 dollar oil change just to drain it and change it again.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 10:16 PM
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Well, you posted this in the 7.3 section. So I guess I'm not sure what the question is then. Lol
I have used it in gassers. Used MMO as well.
Synthetic blend isn't really any better then plain dino oil.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2018, 02:25 AM
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Best to use prior to an oil change.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

Last edited by ArcticDriver; 09-22-2018 at 02:56 AM.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2018, 02:36 AM
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Castrol GTX had to quit advertising itself as Superior on Sludge.

https://www.autoserviceworld.com/car...claims-appeal/


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2018, 12:22 PM
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Never used it in the oil, was gonna, but tried the fuel one first. Bottle in a tank of fuel, just because. What a mistake. Noticed no improvement or anything, but damb what a horrible smell! Stank the whole neighborhood up for the whole tank, and half the next. Horrible smell too. And it was like a fart in a space suit. It stank all the time, even when the truck was off! I'd come out the next morning and the truck would stink like it had a seafoam film on it. My god I'll never do that again. 2 stroke oil is my fuel goto now. Oil, straight dino for me. My super motor don't like the 5/40, runs like crap. Put 15/40 in and Kabang! By by mustangs. Cant seem to get 15/40 synthetic up here, so dino it is. My motor demands a lot from the oil, so its breaking down pretty quick anyway. So I change oil every 3000km now, or if it gets noisy at idle. Good sign your oil is wore out. Guess if my boots weren't so heavy it would probably last longer, but with all the doe I spent building this thing, I'll just change it every 3000km, and stick with 15/40. (No cleaner, if your motor runs right, its not needed in the oil) ( Friction reducers I do try some times in oil, cause, can't go wrong reducing that)

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2018, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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@Absolute I’m a firm believer in seafoam. I run 2 cans every now and then in my gassers on fill up. I’ve never had to change a injector in 205k miles and I can out run the newer 5.3s with my 4.8. My fuel filter every 20k is also very clean. I cut them in half with a saw to take a look when I remove the old ones.

Also on the diesels with seafoam,it’s best to add it to the fuel bowl. Run the truck for 2 minutes at idle then let it set for 30-45 minutes and run the hell out of it. I’ve never ran seafoam in a diesel fuel tank just hot shot or 2 stroke oiL
@articdriver I didn’t know GTX isn’t worth a dang anymore I’ll switch to Pennzoil or Mobil one after I drive a few miles and flush the seafoam out of my oil.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2018, 09:51 PM
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Didn't do a dang thing for my truck, except stink up the neighborhood. But then again, there isn't anything wrong with my motor, so nothing to fix really. I use the 2 stroke oil for 2 purposes, it quiets down the single shots at idle, and it has a crap load of sulfur in it, which all the new diesel does not, or very low amounts. Sulfur good for diesel, yum yum. Need all the lubricity I can get. My fuel filters are pretty dark, 2 stroke oil will do that, so I don't bother even looking at them. Put a new one in every oil change anyway, 5 seconds later its as dark as the one I took out. lol

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
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