shaking and loss of power - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-08-2019, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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shaking and loss of power

1999 F250 7.3 DIESEL WONT REV UP AND WHEN IT DOES IT SHAKES A LOT AND WONT GO PAST 30MPH. SHAKES AT IDLE AND SOMETIMES IT SHUTS OFF. SOMETIMES WHILE DRIVING IT GRABS AND GOES BUT THEN GOES BACK TO MISFIRE OR LACK OF FUEL NOT SURE HOW TO DESCRIBE. I CHECKED FUEL FILTER BOEL TO FIND IT HALF FULL AND THEN WHEN THE IGNITION SWITCH WAS TUNED ON IT STARTED TO BLOW BUBBLE WHILE FILLING THE BOWL UP SLOWLY
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-08-2019, 08:44 PM
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Sounds to me like you have a bad fuel pump or possibly a clogged up fuel screen in the tank. Do you have a full tank of fuel? Can you hear the fuel pump running when you cycle the key on before starting?

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-08-2019, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Yes I hear the fuel pump run and yes it has fuel in tank. When it started it had only 1/4 tank or less. so thinking it was the fuel pump pickup screen in tank. I added 5 gallons to make sure it had fuel above that line.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 12:34 AM
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Is your check Engine light on. Sounds like you might have issues with injector wiring, but codes would be a good thing to start with.
Could be fuel issues as well.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 05:15 AM Thread Starter
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No check engine light on. Crazy as it sounds.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 05:18 AM Thread Starter
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I checked driver side wiring looks good under the plug where everyone says it runs. I have not checked the passenger side or taken valve covers off yet.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 10:19 AM
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Similar thing happened to mine. Hose clap rotted off on top of the fuel tank and it was sucking tons of air
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 05:37 AM Thread Starter
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Well I turned ignition switch on and off about ten time letting bowl fill up and then started the truck lots of shaking I shut it down and did a few more switch on and off then started again this time giving it a bit of gas and it stayed on so I let it run for like 5 mins then drove it to gas station filled her up and the rest is history. I believe I have to drop that tank and check cause it all started when I was 1/4 tank low.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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Post still no luck

dropped tank today cleaned both filter screens and replaced strainer grill or screen that i found at the bottom of the tank. added 10 gallon of diesel back in it and took it down to auto zone to return somrthing and its doing the same thing. wont go and sound like hell all kinds of valve noise when revving it up and no power just gets up to maybe 40 and then shakes sounds bad when I floor it floor it
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Angry

i do hear gurgling when switch is on and pump is running is that air and where do i look? all connections looked good when removing all lines of the tank
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 01:39 AM
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When you dropped the tank, you should have replaced the quick connects with standard hose and clamps. Those fuel line connectors have o-rings in them that don't seal well under suction. Just disconnecting and reconnecting them will make them leak.
Possibly your fuel pump has gone bad.

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by klhansen View Post
When you dropped the tank, you should have replaced the quick connects with standard hose and clamps. Those fuel line connectors have o-rings in them that don't seal well under suction. Just disconnecting and reconnecting them will make them leak.
Possibly your fuel pump has gone bad.
well that could be a possible one of the fuel lines came off very easy when removing them but i pulled on them when reinstalling them back on to make sure the were secured. not looking forward to dropping the tank again. i was thinking last night the pump is only 19 yrs old wouldn't hurt to replace it.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 04:45 PM
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Finally your going to fix the right part. A pressure test from the beginning was what should have been done , and the slow filling bowl should have clued you in a long time ago. Just remember theres air in the system now, and after your pump, its going to run good again, but may cough or stumble over the next 500miles until the air all purges out. Unless your have a regulated return system there is no way to avoid that. Its nothing to worry about and should be expected.

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 06:58 PM
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Just remember theres air in the system now, and after your pump, its going to run good again, but may cough or stumble over the next 500miles until the air all purges out. Unless your have a regulated return system there is no way to avoid that. Its nothing to worry about and should be expected.
I have to disagree on it taking 500 miles to purge air out of the fuel system. If that were true, every filter change would cause the engine to run like crap for about a week (typical mileage?) The any air in the fuel rail will purge out thru the injectors in a much shorter timeframe, even without a regulated return. The filter in stock form will purge air coming from the tank and pump unless the pump is sucking air continuously.
You're right though that it (air) is nothing to worry about as long as the system is tight.

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 07:40 AM
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I didn't say it would run like crap, I said it may have some hickups for the first bit until all the air gets out. And yes, every filter change does allow air in. One of the reasons most guy eliminate it. ITs junk. 500 miles is a lot, I agree, but if air gets in, it can take that long to get out. Another reason the return systems were invented, and fixed this issue. Air isn't an issue, I just didn't want the guy making a new post saying it blows white smoke in the morning when he starts it and he thinks its broke. When its just a bit of air in the fuel system. Just a precautionary note so the OP doesn't panic. No need to get your undies in a knot.

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
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