Stalls after warm up - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-04-2015, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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Stalls after warm up

Need some help. with truck plugged in and temp outside is 30 or so I start truck its smokes for 30 seconds to a minute then smooths out with no smoke truck runs normal however after complete warm up it just dies. cycle the key it fires right up then dies 120 seconds later. cycle the key it fires right up runs 120 seconds then it dies. it will do this all the way home.

99 F350 4x4 7.3L auto trans, crewcab, dana 60 front end, ford 10.5 rear end
MODS riffraff FRX/ hutch mod to tank/ high flow banjos/ stock tires/ 325,000 miles
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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 07:30 AM
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120 seconds is a curious number as that's the maximum time the glow plugs will stay on. As the engine warms up, you would expect that time to decrease. I can't imagine the truck would only run if the glow plugs were hot. That would indicate such low compression that you aren't achieving combustion temperature without their help. I think you are going to need to put a scanner on it and watch what happens as it stalls.

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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 10:44 AM
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Have you ever checked the EBPS and cleaned the tube. Is your EBPV free, not stuck closed. My 99 will rev up a little when it's real cold. That farting noise you hear is relevant to those.

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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 11:16 AM
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Once it dies open up the bowl and hpop tank to check levels.

If working on RT's theory, after one minute with it running, disconnect outgoing glow plug cable from relay.
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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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@RT and @Bill1013 rt those were my thoughts like maybe some kind of short so I replaced the GP relay that did not fix it. and bill I just did major repairs injector cups injectors hpop reseal turbo and valve covers valve cover harness, so while I was in there I did have to move the sensor I did scrape the crap out with a tooth pick being careful not to bottom it out into the sensor I had done this once before the same way I also sprayed some brake fluid cleaner in it just a touch not a blast now the tube I rammed a pipe cleaner down it as far as I could. maybe I pushed the crap down and clogged the tube that just popped into my head ill find it I just need suggestions from ya so anything at all that might cause this please list. also one more thing now that I think about it. my truck isn't doing the whole idle up till warmed up thing man it used to really get into that making all kinds of noise but after these repairs not so much kinda idles up a little don't really here the exhaust change like it used to maybe I need to check that exhaust back pressure unit on the turbo pedestal. I had better get to finishing my coolant anything you think please feel free also a little history ICP, IPR are both a year old however the pigtails were not changed at the time of sensors on the ICP the little white cap inside the clip isn't there its gone I noticed that yesterday but I cant do much with this until I get coolant and thermos in. thanks for you help. I'm pretty sure it going to be electrical or sensor.




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120 seconds is a curious number as that's the maximum time the glow plugs will stay on. As the engine warms up, you would expect that time to decrease. I can't imagine the truck would only run if the glow plugs were hot. That would indicate such low compression that you aren't achieving combustion temperature without their help. I think you are going to need to put a scanner on it and watch what happens as it stalls.

99 F350 4x4 7.3L auto trans, crewcab, dana 60 front end, ford 10.5 rear end
MODS riffraff FRX/ hutch mod to tank/ high flow banjos/ stock tires/ 325,000 miles
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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 11:28 AM
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LPOP can't keep up with the HPOP once the oil warms and gets thinner? As mentioned, check the HPOP oil level when it dies.
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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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LPOP can't keep up with the HPOP once the oil warms and gets thinner? As mentioned, check the HPOP oil level when it dies.
@greenskeeper never having this problem before whats the fix to that, ( 15 degree pump is what on the truck I think) my truck had AD injectors in it they actually worked I just replaced them because I was in there doing the cups, the hpop got resealed and turbo was replaced. @Marylanddieselnick ill try that as well as Marylanddieselnick knows ive ben doing repairs on this truck for 2 months its cost about 4000.00 on truck and chewed up my little nest egg the wify told me I was cut off I haven't worked in 2 months so what ever it is needs to be a cheap fix ill clear codes then finish coolant today then pull new ones see what I get but I cant really afford much more for the money ive spent not working and repairs I could have put 8000.00 down on new or used truck but I love this truck we ben threw a lot. I would just like to run it for another year then retire. and to marylanddieselnick that damed noise is still there. in the front end. thanks for recommendation rt

99 F350 4x4 7.3L auto trans, crewcab, dana 60 front end, ford 10.5 rear end
MODS riffraff FRX/ hutch mod to tank/ high flow banjos/ stock tires/ 325,000 miles
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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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so coolant is done, and of course it stalled upon warm up. so I took apart the sensor on front of engine blew air threw tube, same thing stalled. I didn't get to the disconnecting the GP wires because I disconnected the ICP and it did not stall kept running. also I noticed yesterday at a rev, when i let off the rpm drops well below the nrom ant then slowly comes back up to normal how ever with ICP unplugged it doesn't stall and letting off a rev it does not drop down below normal rpm pretty much normal. so the ipr and icp were replaced a year or so ago they are oreilly brand I did not replace pigtails on either plug because they were order only. so I need to test the ICP if possible is there an ohms test or how do I test it.


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Originally Posted by Maryland dieselnick View Post
Once it dies open up the bowl and hpop tank to check levels.

If working on RT's theory, after one minute with it running, disconnect outgoing glow plug cable from relay.

99 F350 4x4 7.3L auto trans, crewcab, dana 60 front end, ford 10.5 rear end
MODS riffraff FRX/ hutch mod to tank/ high flow banjos/ stock tires/ 325,000 miles
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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 08:01 AM
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Are you sure all copper washers are on the injectors? Are you sure all injectors are properly torqued?
Did you have this going on before the injector install?
Drain your fuel into a clear container and let us know what color it is.
Are you positive all glow plugs were installed and hooked up?
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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maryland dieselnick View Post
Are you sure all copper washers are on the injectors? Are you sure all injectors are properly torqued?
Did you have this going on before the injector install?
Drain your fuel into a clear container and let us know what color it is.
Are you positive all glow plugs were installed and hooked up?
Nick,

Green Machine has two threads going and in the other one he said that when he unplugs the ICP then his problems disappear. His description is post # 24 here:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...17/index2.html

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Last edited by ArcticDriver; 12-07-2015 at 08:31 AM.
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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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sorry about the 2 thread thing gentleman I came home the other night could not find my own thread "coolant change " so I started this one. ill stick to this thread from this point on. because coolant is done. @Marylanddieselnick I took my time with injector install 2 days 4 one day 4 the next checked torque 4 times then a 5th right before installing valve covers. id bet the truck that the copper washers are on, as far as getting the injectors seated of course the ones up front were easy I used the 5/8 wrench technique one the front injectors and the rear injectors well did what ever worked to get them in there. now I did pull some codes before I changed coolant three days ago I haven't ben outside yet today I want to clear it all then start fresh but ill list codes now.............. well my phone erased them but I just had them open so icp low, icp high, icp above/below, cam shaft. I'm pretty sure that's all of them I'm about to go out side and do some code pulling and wire testing. for those of you that didn't know about the other thread here is a summery. stalled after warm up cycle key start right up after 120 seconds to the second it will die. so I was frustrated last knight so I started pulling pigtails when I got to the icp sensor it didn't stall. also I noticed sense all my repairs at a rev, let off it would sink well past normal then slowly climb to normal, after unplugging the icp the slow back to normal idle was gone to. Again I apologize for the 2 threads but I couldn't find mine and wanted to get the information out there because I'm running out of time and money. There is going to be no Christmas for my son (he is 10) if I cant get to work by the 11th of this month. So I need to test I just found a schematic and ohms volts for the icp going to test that in a minute. I need same thing for ipr if anyone has that or a link. One more thing my truck is not doing the whole idle up til its warmed up sequence. Also she craps out 2100 2300 rpm blows lots smoke. I bet it all tied in. I did ask a question is there a default that the injectors will go into if one of the sensors goes out. I had read somewhere that if one of the sensors goes out it will default ? any one here or know more about that. Also @ArcticDriver you did not tell me my big mean 4x4 smoke blowing man truck was gonna have pink antifreeze wait til my friends see that. ok ima go check stuff out "i'll be back"




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Nick,

Green Machine has two threads going and in the other one he said that when he unplugs the ICP then his problems disappear. His description is post # 24 here:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...17/index2.html

.

99 F350 4x4 7.3L auto trans, crewcab, dana 60 front end, ford 10.5 rear end
MODS riffraff FRX/ hutch mod to tank/ high flow banjos/ stock tires/ 325,000 miles
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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Maryland dieselnick View Post
Once it dies open up the bowl and hpop tank to check levels.

If working on RT's theory, after one minute with it running, disconnect outgoing glow plug cable from relay.
ok the oil level is fine I did that first thing. I did not pull the supply wires to the GP yet but i'll check that as well

99 F350 4x4 7.3L auto trans, crewcab, dana 60 front end, ford 10.5 rear end
MODS riffraff FRX/ hutch mod to tank/ high flow banjos/ stock tires/ 325,000 miles
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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RT View Post
120 seconds is a curious number as that's the maximum time the glow plugs will stay on. As the engine warms up, you would expect that time to decrease. I can't imagine the truck would only run if the glow plugs were hot. That would indicate such low compression that you aren't achieving combustion temperature without their help. I think you are going to need to put a scanner on it and watch what happens as it stalls.
Also what if any kind of damage I'm i doing by running with the ICP unplugged. i drove home from folks house 6 miles but i got stuff to do places to go. I'm gonna check for bad wires and what not and make sure the icp is bad but.

99 F350 4x4 7.3L auto trans, crewcab, dana 60 front end, ford 10.5 rear end
MODS riffraff FRX/ hutch mod to tank/ high flow banjos/ stock tires/ 325,000 miles
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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 01:42 PM
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The only damage is to your miles per gallon.

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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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The only damage is to your miles per gallon.
Well I'm back and after resetting the codes and waiting for it to warm up it stalled again. but I cant find any diagrams for the icp sensor volts and ohms type thing. I know the sensors should have a 5 volt wire, ground wire and then signal wire but I don't know the ohms of said wires if some one could help me out with that that would be great I googled it found it for 97 idi but not sure if its going to be the same. the good news is I bought both ICP and IPR in April this year they have a one year warrenty so I shouldn't have to buy it. However I shouldn't be replacing it this soon. I just pulled codes I have code p1280 and p0603 can anyone give me a little insight to the later code the 603.

99 F350 4x4 7.3L auto trans, crewcab, dana 60 front end, ford 10.5 rear end
MODS riffraff FRX/ hutch mod to tank/ high flow banjos/ stock tires/ 325,000 miles
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