Thanks! & What about the SS HPX High Pressure Oil Cross Over Line - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks! & What about the SS HPX High Pressure Oil Cross Over Line

Thanks to the members supporting Dieselstop.com, I have gotten very thoughtful, good advice. I was (am) new to diesels— started with a 2002 stock 7.3, have installed the shut off valve in the heater hose which fixed the AC (cab was cold yesterday on 95 degree day running 70mph), did the AIH Delete, and installed guage pod with Pyro/Trans/Boost (guage feedback exactly what all of you said it should be)

I did a search for old posts (high oil pressure crossover tube) (SS hpx cross over tube) and nothing came up?

My 7.3 idles great, runs smooth (184K) but I’m sure my ear is not tuned to diesels like those of you who have had them. Should I put the cross over tube on or just a waste of money?

Lots of conflicting opinions on different forums but Diesel Stop is the only site I’m registered at and the only one I ask for advice and feedback. Sorry for the long post (pic of my pod and guages)
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 09:47 AM
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It's one of those mods that won't hurt anything but probably doesn't help enough to make it worthwhile. Once you account for the placebo effect, I don't believe there is a noticeable change in how the engine runs with the crossover in place. But - it isn't terribly expensive and will do no harm so if you've been bitten by that modification bug, then give it a whirl.

2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM

I wonder if clouds ever look down on us and say, "Hey, look - that one is shaped like an idiot!"
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 11:11 AM
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^^^^^^this^^^^^^

Some say that it helps quiet down the engine, some say it doesn't.

I have had mine on for over 150,000 miles and really didn't notice any difference in noise level or performance. It is also said to help the injectors by balancing out the oil flow to them.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 01:46 PM
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Greetings BigHorn;
I read your post about the shut off valve here;
"">>>>have installed the shut off valve in the heater hose which fixed the AC (cab was cold yesterday on 95 degree day running 70mph)<<<"""
I've got an Excursion with a 7.3, and live in Florida where it can be quite hot at times...
The Excursion NEVER seems to cool down enough for me...and I was wondering EXACTLY where the hose is that you put the shut off valve in...
Is it possible to post a picture of it ??? I'd greatly appreciate it.
Is it the feed hose or the return line ???
Tnx in advance

XS_SUV
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Grauup, Sure thing. The instructions said to put anywhere in the line from the water pump to the heater core. And to hook the vacuum line from the shut off valve to the white vacuum line under/behind the glove box inside the cab that connects to a vacuum pot so that the valve only closes on “MAX AC”

The “T” and hose provided with the kit weren’t the right size and I bought some vacuum hose at Auto Zone.

For running the vacuum line through the firewall I took the front inner fender well loose and pulled back which gave me room to run the line through a factory grommet and up around the AC unit in the engine compartment.

From what I read (don’t remember where?) it’s important to have coolant running through your core when AC isn’t on since the anti corrosives in the anti-freeze protect the core, and which is why it’s not a good idea to put a ball valve in. (I can’t confirm but it seems to make sense)

What I found running the dash controls was the valve closes on MAX AC and OFF, Opens on VENT and HEAT so I leave it on vent when not using AC instead of disrupting flow. Sorry I don’t have a better photo:
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! & What about the SS HPX High Pressure Oil Cross Over Line

Graupp, pretty excited about my mpg too! I have only done small mods and no programmer yet, but a TS-6 in the works. I have a 4wd, cc, drw, 8’ bed, fueled up this morning and did the math: 17.38 mpg
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graupp View Post
Greetings BigHorn;
I read your post about the shut off valve here;
"">>>>have installed the shut off valve in the heater hose which fixed the AC (cab was cold yesterday on 95 degree day running 70mph)<<<"""
I've got an Excursion with a 7.3, and live in Florida where it can be quite hot at times...
The Excursion NEVER seems to cool down enough for me...and I was wondering EXACTLY where the hose is that you put the shut off valve in...
Is it possible to post a picture of it ??? I'd greatly appreciate it.
Is it the feed hose or the return line ???
Tnx in advance



Go to Dieselsite and buy their Max AC assist kit. You wont be disappointed in the kit and detailed instructions are given for the install.

2002 F250 Super Duty Crew Cab 7.3L Lariat 2WD 131,000mi; 4in turbo back custom exhaust, Garrett GTP38R turbo, Riffraff intercooler boots, Dorman Up-Pipes, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, Scangauge II, ISSPRO EV2 Boost-EGT-Trans temp Gauges, DP T-5 Tuner (stock ,60HP tow, Decel, 60HP highway econo, 80HP city econo), Dieselsite coolant filtration, Max Air A/C mod, foglight mod, AIH delete, LED interior, back up camera, hid foglights.


I have AE if you are in San Diego area and need help. Send PM
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 07:35 AM
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Thanks Guys...
Looks like it can solve the problem...

XS_SUV
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 08:01 PM
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Graupp, pretty excited about my mpg too! I have only done small mods and no programmer yet, but a TS-6 in the works. I have a 4wd, cc, drw, 8’ bed, fueled up this morning and did the math: 17.38 mpg
4R100 or ZF-6 ?


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 09:32 PM
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4R100 or ZF-6 ?
Auto tranny based on the pic of the dash.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
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), AIS,
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regulated return,
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 10:41 PM
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4R100 or ZF-6 ?
Auto tranny based on the pic of the dash.
That is great MPG for a dually with 4R100.

I drive like Miss Daisy is my passenger and I think my average is 18 with SRW.

My ZF-6 average is about 10% better.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
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SOLD:
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