Hello All,
New to the forum, but have been lurking and researching here since I bought my '02 F250 SRW 7.3. I am hoping that some of the folks here can provide some additional insight into the issue that I am seeing.
To start, I have an '02 7.3 F250 with 256k on it and it is essentially stock other than the Superchips 1805 programmer installed. I had the transmission rebuilt at 165k and the shop installed a higher stall torque converter (2800 rpm). I had the transmission rebuilt again at 254k (March of this year) using the same converter. I do not tow anymore (used to tow 20ft trailer and Jeep), but see no reason to get rid of the truck as it is paid for and has plenty of life left in it.
Historically the stock in dash gauge (no after market gauges installed) has rarely ever moved from dead center. After the initial rebuild the only time it went up was long trips at higher mph (usually when carrying ATV in bed). Since the second rebuild earlier this year, I have seen the gauge climb more frequently after driving for about 45 min and when in slower traffic. I have not noticed any slipping or other issues and have not thrown any codes. For perspective, I do live in Florida and the temps have been in the mid to upper 90s lately.
I have recently upgraded the stock cooler to the Mishimoto 6.0/7.3 37 row cooler. I have since performed a flow test with mixed results. The first test blew ATF out the hole where the rear line was attached. I then installed the bypass delete kit to the front line, eliminating the bypass as a variable. I tested again and the flow was solid and quick from the input line to the transmission, with nothing exiting the transmission itself. This leads me to believe the bypass valve was the culprit and that the coolant flow is not an issue. I rebuilt the bypass valve today using the Sonnex rebuild kit and plan to test it again tomorrow. My intention is to keep the bypass in place once I resolve the heating issue. The ATF is still a nice light pink color on the dipstick.
I have also checked for leaks and do not see any and the fluid level appears correct. I added two quarts after installing the new cooler and coolant flow test. One for lost fluid and one for the additional capacity of the new cooler (per Mishimoto specs).
To date the factory dash gauge has gotten to yellow, but not red. Based upon what I have read, that is in the 200-225 range and I should be running less with the new cooler. From what I have read, with the new cooler I should be seeing 60-90 degrees above ambient (so up to 190 would seem appropriate given recent temps here in North FL???).
Questions at the moment
1) Should the front banjo bolt should also be replaced at the same time?
2) If after rebuilding the bypass valve I see the same results with flow test, what else should I investigate?
3) Should I install an electric fan in front of the condenser to force more air toward the cooler?
4) Why would the dash gauge all of a sudden be more responsive?
Thanks in advance for any input or direction that will help in figuring this out.
New to the forum, but have been lurking and researching here since I bought my '02 F250 SRW 7.3. I am hoping that some of the folks here can provide some additional insight into the issue that I am seeing.
To start, I have an '02 7.3 F250 with 256k on it and it is essentially stock other than the Superchips 1805 programmer installed. I had the transmission rebuilt at 165k and the shop installed a higher stall torque converter (2800 rpm). I had the transmission rebuilt again at 254k (March of this year) using the same converter. I do not tow anymore (used to tow 20ft trailer and Jeep), but see no reason to get rid of the truck as it is paid for and has plenty of life left in it.
Historically the stock in dash gauge (no after market gauges installed) has rarely ever moved from dead center. After the initial rebuild the only time it went up was long trips at higher mph (usually when carrying ATV in bed). Since the second rebuild earlier this year, I have seen the gauge climb more frequently after driving for about 45 min and when in slower traffic. I have not noticed any slipping or other issues and have not thrown any codes. For perspective, I do live in Florida and the temps have been in the mid to upper 90s lately.
I have recently upgraded the stock cooler to the Mishimoto 6.0/7.3 37 row cooler. I have since performed a flow test with mixed results. The first test blew ATF out the hole where the rear line was attached. I then installed the bypass delete kit to the front line, eliminating the bypass as a variable. I tested again and the flow was solid and quick from the input line to the transmission, with nothing exiting the transmission itself. This leads me to believe the bypass valve was the culprit and that the coolant flow is not an issue. I rebuilt the bypass valve today using the Sonnex rebuild kit and plan to test it again tomorrow. My intention is to keep the bypass in place once I resolve the heating issue. The ATF is still a nice light pink color on the dipstick.
I have also checked for leaks and do not see any and the fluid level appears correct. I added two quarts after installing the new cooler and coolant flow test. One for lost fluid and one for the additional capacity of the new cooler (per Mishimoto specs).
To date the factory dash gauge has gotten to yellow, but not red. Based upon what I have read, that is in the 200-225 range and I should be running less with the new cooler. From what I have read, with the new cooler I should be seeing 60-90 degrees above ambient (so up to 190 would seem appropriate given recent temps here in North FL???).
Questions at the moment
1) Should the front banjo bolt should also be replaced at the same time?
2) If after rebuilding the bypass valve I see the same results with flow test, what else should I investigate?
3) Should I install an electric fan in front of the condenser to force more air toward the cooler?
4) Why would the dash gauge all of a sudden be more responsive?
Thanks in advance for any input or direction that will help in figuring this out.