Turbo rebuild, Now High EGTs and no BOOST!! - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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Recently last week did a turbo rebuild with one of my fiends. Pretty straight forward. Running a 2003 7.3, stock turbo with the non waste gated 1.15 garret housing. Unit is pretty much stock with stealth stage 2 hpop, TS performance 6 position chip.maybe a few other odd and end things.
So with the turbo I added a new turbine wheel,fresh guts, wicked wheel. Changed out the old turbo pedestal with a new non ebpv delete on it. the previous pedestal was already disconnected and the valve linkage was taken off. I ordered all new boots from riff raff Diesel with all new clamps. Also did the CCV mod with a ccv filter in its place. I've actually got a oil catch system coming this week so prob going to reroute that back into the intake.

Put everything back on, started the truck and checked for leaks. Didnít seen anything leaking but did immediately notice a bad exhaust leak sound coming from inside the cab. i could hear the turbo whistling little louder than before,most likely from the new wheel.

Took the truck for a test drive and noticed lower-boost than what I was at before. Under Throttle at 2-3 thousand rpm, could only get like 8-10 psi. Before the build the most the truck would make was about 24-26 non watsegated so I took the truck on the interstate with a small 12-foot lawn mower trailer and at 60 mph with slight throttle I was getting very little boost and my egts would shoot on up between 1200 to 1300 in overdrive and it was rolling way more smoke out the exhaust than before. I brought the truck back home and noticed the hot side of the turbo intake had popped off, before the rebuild it was always the cold side that would pop off cause is the oil build up on the boots. I also noticed a lot of soot in behind the bellowpipes, coming from either a crack in the pipes or flange thatís not sealed.

I have currently ordered new up pipes and the adapter going to the turbo. Would that exhaust leak there cause that much problems like that? I donít think I have a faulty exhaust temp sensor. Itís pretty new Im not sure at what point my hot side cac popped off but I had no boost on takeoff when it did. Truck felt very slugggesh. Does anyone have any suggestions to what might be going on? I donít think the ccv mod had anything to do with but it will be changed back over this week. I was going to do a boostleak test but wasnít sure the best way to do it on the 7.3. Everything was good before the rebuild other than having some oil on all the cac pipes and boots. Truck has almost 200,000 on it and I thought it might be a good time to rebuild the turbo and throw some new items in there at it. any suggestions would be appreciated.

Last edited by mmarshall88; 03-25-2019 at 07:54 PM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 10:17 PM
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Sounds like you found the problem to me. Hook up the turbo intake and do another test drive. Leaking up-pipes are a common problem You could have the up-pipe band clamp loose or misaligned also.
DENNY

Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 10:39 PM
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I'd go and double check all boots and clamps just because you don't hear it doesn't mean it's not there the up pipe could also be the problem.


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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
Sounds like you found the problem to me. Hook up the turbo intake and do another test drive. Leaking up-pipes are a common problem You could have the up-pipe band clamp loose or misaligned also.
DENNY
Yeah that's what I'm thinking, its either got to be a crack at the up pipes or misaligned at the turbo. Either way, i have some new ones coming in this week, will work on getting those I'm. I'm super positive I will have to remove the turbo again to get those on. they look like they are in a tight spot. I will get it all hooked back up and update as soon as possible.

Also, i did happen to paint the whole turbo, for the exhaust side, i used the high temp vht paint. You don't think that would hinder the egt temp there would you?
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 11:58 AM
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The turbo don't about no little stinking paint. You can fit it all up without pulling the turbo but having a buddy helps a lot.
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Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 06:33 PM
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Paint won't hurt anything on the turbo. Besides the more heat you get to the exhaust side of the turbo, the more boost its going to make. Mine are double ceramic coated from the manifolds to the exhaust down pipe. High temps in the cylinder is bad, High temps in the turbine are great!

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 06:39 AM Thread Starter
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Update, i spent about 5 hours last night working on the truck by myself. I was able to get the new up pipes and exhaust turbo flange installed. i did have to remove the turbo, i went ahead and briefly inspected it, it looked fine. Installed everything back on, hook back up the intake and cac. Started the truck and checked for leaks, didn't see anything. Took the truck for a brief road test and its still basically doing the same thing. It may be somewhat better but not still like it was before i did the rebuild. I'm thinking now that maybe i shouldn't have touched anything and left it all alone lol

So this afternoon, i plan on using a boost leak tool to check for leaks. Not sure where ill go after that if no leaks are found. The truck still at WOT just lags so much. It never did that before the rebuild. I can hear the turbo spooling and whistling. plus if i give it WOT at 45 mph, the egts will climb well over 1000 to 1100 degrees easily, sometimes over 1200. I mean its possible my egt probe could be bad. I have a newer glowshift gauge setup. But still doesn't add up to the lag of HP at throttle. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Guys

also noted, someone before me had installed a map sensor boost fooler. I havnet really messed with that thing much. I did have my turbo boost sensor in that line, but i did purchase the riffraff plug for the intake, that had the Allen head plug that you can remove from the middle, the sensor fit right in that spot there. I would think that would be a great place to get a good reading for the boost.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 10:54 AM
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You only need a boost fooler if you produce more than stock boost. When the boost goes over the map sensor limit the computer puts the truck in limp mode and it wont make more than 10psi boost. But a stock configuration cant do that unless a blockage occurs. That said, is your intercooler plugged? The fooler is solved several ways. Easiest is "T" tapping a wire on the map sensor pig tail and grounding it. This fixes the issue, but your boost gauge if not mechanical will only read 10psi , then the signal is lost, which is why it works. Another is to buy a new Map sensor with a higher range. Any way, too much boost is not your issue, unless you have a blockage. Ive heard of intercoolers plugging up, but never seen it before. You could get some reinforced rubber hose and bypass it as a test, that would be easy. Keeping in mind performance loss from no cooler, but you would get an accurate boost reading off it. And you don't make boost in the driveway, you have to drive it and get under load so the cpu dumps some fuel into it.
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2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 11:33 AM
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I just did a turbo rebuild myself with new Riffraff wheel. My pedestal was deleted like yours so switched that out to a non-EBPV from Riffraff. I too didn't have any problems before except some surge under load. Not a big deal, but just wanted to eliminate it and be good to go. I second guessed too but it turned out great.

So, if it were me, I would be looking at what "I" did during the turbo rebuild and install. If things were fine before and they are not now look at what you did. Take the turbo back out and go through the rebuild process again double checking your work. It really sucks to have to remove it all again but it may save you time in the long run not having to chase down gremlins.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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Just an update, i haven't been on here in a bit as i was out of town. I was able to get my up pipes in and that ultimately fixed the problem. before when i changed out the up pipes, i was a dummy and didn't tighten the intake plenum clamps. That's when i was driving the truck and noticed there was no change and had lower boost. I was able to boost test it and found those clamps not tightened. SO then, after i tightened them up, with the new up pipes on, i was able to hold some boost. i was using a cheap tester that my friend made and it worked for time being. i did drive the truck and was able to make over 20psi and my egts were back down to where they should be with no load.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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Update again........

So i started pulling my trailer and mower and was noticing i was building good boost, but my my egts under load in a override was sticking around 1000 or so, which i don't recall that being that way before all the work was done. i had been reading about my cac in this trucks, so i decided to remove it and flush it out and pressure test it to make sure it was ok. I removed the cac in which i did find a little oil in there, (prob from the ccv). i flushed it out really good and dried it out. (i hooked my big back pack blower to it lol) it does have good air flow and it held pressure with no leaks. I did buy a nice boost pressure tester from dieselsite.

Got everything hooked back up last night and did a new pressure test on the whole system. I found a small leak at the intake air temp sensor, i replaced it. Other than that, i found no leaks anywhere. i used a squirt bottle and dawn soap. I was noticing after i would pump it up to 15 psi, it would slowly leak back down as the air escaping was coming from the ccv hose. I'm assuming this was normal was i was pressurizing the whole cac and engine?
I have to get some more coolant today and some fittings for my oil catch can. just wanted to see if that was normal for that to leak down that way through the engine.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 05:37 PM
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I don't see anything wrong with the temperature or the leak down. Fuel makes boost, so if your boosting, your producing heat. You said under load and good boost, so 1000 is totally normal. 1250 is the safe number. Get on the hill, find the happy 1250 and set the cruise control. Depending on the hill and load, that is probably going to mean 3rd, no O/D. But ya, good numbers. All fixed up. Good job. Now put the tools away, and enjoy it. lol

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah i think you are right. It seems like before i was seeing slightly less temps. After driving on weekend pulling my mower and trailer(4000 lbs), up a slight hill on interstate, 70mph, i was seeing around 920 to 980 temps. Now i do have a lower stall torque convertor, so my trucks tends to want to stay in that lower gear before it up shifts. I'm assuming these are good numbers. there might have been a few times that i got on it up the hill and it broke 1000 but i never seen over 1050.

What are some of the normal temps that you see across the board ? Also does anyone have the foil kit or wrap installed on their cac pipe? i wasn't sure if that makes a difference. i know that cac pipe sits dang near on top of the exh manifold.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 05:34 PM
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I got the foil on the drivers side one still. A lot of guys remove it cause it looks crappy. It helps a bit cooling, or more holding temp.

2002 F350 Super Duty, Crew Cab,Long box,4x4, 7.3 PSD, Complete rebuild .010 over by myself except balancing, 2000hp billet connecting rods, ARP main and head studs, ceramic coated pistons, Smith Bros Chrome Molly push rods, Comp Cams springs, shims and seals. Competion complete valve set and head grinding and vacuum tested, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner Infinity DX programmer and full load of tunes modified for my new Stage 3 250 shot injectors, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up pipes and collector, BD Diesel triple clutch furnace brazed billet torque converter and BD pro engine brake and compressor set up, MBRP 4" stainless turbo back, Driven Diesel regulated fuel return system, AFE pro stage 2 cool air intake, riffraff billet Whicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel in a GTP38R turbo, riffraff blue cooler boot kit and coil clamps, International Double Ceramic Coated Bellowed Up Pipes
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 10:34 PM
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Your egt temp is fine. I dont even blink an eye at 1000deg. I tow a 16k trailer and hit 1200 all the time on big hills and heavy throttle.

2002 F250 Super Duty Crew Cab 7.3L Lariat 2WD 131,000mi; 4in turbo back custom exhaust, Garrett GTP38R turbo, Riffraff intercooler boots, Dorman Up-Pipes, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, Scangauge II, ISSPRO EV2 Boost-EGT-Trans temp-Fuel pressure Gauges, DP T-5 Tuner (stock ,60HP tow, Decel, 60HP highway econo, 80HP city econo), Dieselsite coolant filtration, Max Air A/C mod, foglight mod, AIH delete, LED interior, back up camera, hid foglights.


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