2000 f250 6sp upgrading! - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up Upgrades and Aftermarket - 7.3L Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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2000 f250 6sp upgrading!

I want to start a thread about the upgrades I'm making and planning on making to my truck.

To start with its a 2000 f250 with a zf 6spd, with 230k miles. I have a brute force intake by AEM on it, and run a BullyDog flip chip 6 position chip. The exhaust is factory down pipe and 3.5in straight pipe turned out in front of the back tire.

The upgrades I'm planing on doing in a few weeks include, new bellowed up pipes, 4in stainless flow-pro straight pipe. I'm going to install a 6.0L intercooler and new intake boots. Also going to be installing a boost gauge along with a pyro gauge.

Other upgrades in the future include stage 1 injectors from Full Force Diesel. A programmer from DP Tunes. I want to be able to switch tunes on the fly. I'm also going to need/want a t500 HPOP also. From what I have herd I should put some sort of fuel crossover also.

I'm hoping to gather more information and intell from anyone that is willing to lend there 2cents. If anyone has an opinion on anything I'm planning on doing please let me know. I would rather my plans be snubbed out now than after I spend a lot of money. Thanks in advance




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2000 f250, extend cab short bed, 4x4 superduty,psd 6spd, luk clutch,-.410.1 bullydog flip chip, AEM Brute Force intake system, 3.5in exaust downpipe back exit infront of rear tire. 210k mile
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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One thing I noticed is the 6L intercooler is taller than the 7.3 but its narrower. Is it just the size of the tubes that make it more efficient?


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2000 f250, extend cab short bed, 4x4 superduty,psd 6spd, luk clutch,-.410.1 bullydog flip chip, AEM Brute Force intake system, 3.5in exaust downpipe back exit infront of rear tire. 210k mile
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 05:45 PM
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I would wait on that HPOP unless you know your current one is bad. With the "stage 1" injectors being a single shot design your stock HPOP will be just fine.

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DP-Tuner 80T, 160cc single shots, GTP38R turbo, Ceramic coated IH up-pipes, coolant filter, 6637, DIY exhaust brake, openair CCV, propane, SBC DD all ceramic clutch, ISSPRO EV boost/pyro/HPOP pres./rear end temp, 4" lift, traction bars, 255/70R22.5 tires, York air compressor, 16 flashy lights, 12 strobes, 12 switches on console, 9 switches on the dash, 7 two-way radios, 5 air horns, laptop, siren, 105 gal. in-bed fuel tank, Kennesaw Mountain front bumper

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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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The reason I'm planning on upgrading the HPOP is mine is leaking oil. Not bad but enough that marks it's territory almost everywhere I park it. I have had new seals put in and I'm currently on the 5th set of seals. New ones last for about 3-4 k miles then start to leak again. I think it's time for a new pump. The t500 is only $50 more than a stock reman.


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2000 f250, extend cab short bed, 4x4 superduty,psd 6spd, luk clutch,-.410.1 bullydog flip chip, AEM Brute Force intake system, 3.5in exaust downpipe back exit infront of rear tire. 210k mile
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 08:08 PM
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Just got done installing full force stage 1.5s and the new wicked wheel from strictly diesel. I run a dp f6 chip and love it so far. Also install riff raff frx kit and there plenum reinforcements. I highly recommend the reinforcements. I didn't realize how loose my intake hoses were until I pulled them off with out loosing the clamps.
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 09:23 PM
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Explain what you mean by Stage I 1.5 injectors. Do you mean 160's with 30% over nozzles
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 09:45 PM
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Yes 160/30
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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I'm prity sure I'm going with the stage 1 injectors because I'm not looking to build a pulling truck or drag truck. Just a bad ass to go out on the town with and to sometimes pull my 5th wheel camper(28ft) or very rarely our skid loader but that would only be 5-10 mile tops.


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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure what the 30over nozzles are? Are there more holes in the nozzle or just bigger holes?


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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013, 10:25 PM
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My understanding is they flow 30% more volume than stock. I built mine with as a tow vehicle also. Just got back from a 350 mile trip with about 9000# in tow. Averaged 70+ mph. Ran awesome. Egts were a little bit higher than I like but I do have a leaking up pipe. I'll fix those and see if its better if not I'm gonna go with a 1.0 compressor housing. It spools up fast enough I don't think it'll lag too much.
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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I have a compressor wheel that a guy that worked for us gave me about 6 years ago. He took it out if his truck to reinstall the factory wheel to get some warranty work done and ended up trading the truck off. I think he told me that it was a Scheid Diesel X-wheel but not sure. I have lost contact with him a few years ago to ask him again what it actually is. I have tried to look it up but haven't had any luck. The only markings on it are 3 letters . A,O , and forget the last letter but they arnt together. And a number "1042". The "A" looks like the Airflow Research "A" I can post a pic if anyone mite have an idea what it mite be or would have a way to look it up. 2000 f250 6sp upgrading!-imageuploadedbyag-free1365998733.734592.jpg2000 f250 6sp upgrading!-imageuploadedbyag-free1365998759.718157.jpg
Thanks for any info or opinions


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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 12:20 PM
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that looks to be the W.W..(wicked wheel). It helps in towing, sot he turbo doesnt surge.

With you mentioning a leak, get that fixed first bud, b4 throwing all tons of $$$ at, and problems' still there. The hpop leak could be an o-ring, non-serviceable plug or a hose connection.

With correct tuning and those sticks you mentioned, keeping everything else stock, you could have a REALLY fun truck..(400+ hp). exhaust and intake wont hurt either.

6.0 cooler is a waste, is my opinion. Trial and error doesnt offset the cost, but more of a "brag" thing. Gauges are good now and bellows are'nt a bad idea too. Theres the 450.00 IH bellows or the RckAuto (dorman) 200.00 ones. Your money. Nows a good time, to rebuildthe turbo to and install the "cabinet" kit...Riffraff Diesel: "Mechanics Parts Cabinet" Combo kit

Good luck and we'll be happy to spend ur $$$...
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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My exhaust and up pipes just showed up today !!! And got a very clean 6.0l intercooler for the swap the other day. Picked it up for $150 . I still have to get the right boots for the swap. Waiting on a response from Diesel Power Products on a part number for the right ones. I got my gauges and pod a few months back.

The oil pump has been leaking for about a year now, so I'm hoping another couple months won't hurt anything. Truck runs good just leaves a few dots of oil if I don't park with her nose pointing down some what of a grade. Thank you for the link for the o-ring kit. That is going to be a defiant buy.


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2000 f250, extend cab short bed, 4x4 superduty,psd 6spd, luk clutch,-.410.1 bullydog flip chip, AEM Brute Force intake system, 3.5in exaust downpipe back exit infront of rear tire. 210k mile
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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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How long has the wickid wheel been out? This wheel is probably close to 10years old.


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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Just ordered the o-ring kit and a riff-raff fuel cross over . Good thing for tax returns


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