Aftermarket Fuel Filter? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up Upgrades and Aftermarket - 7.3L Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-25-2018, 02:36 AM Thread Starter
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Aftermarket Fuel Filter?

I don’t know how common this is but I’ve been reading about the cost involved to replace fuel lines / system if the fuel pump were to break apart internally. Is an add on fuel filter (after the pump) something I should plan on installing as a future upgrade. Would like a general opinion from our members as to its importance, the model / brand preferred — I see from some older posts a bolt in system running around $700.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-25-2018, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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OK- I guess the incidents I have read about are newer Ford trucks (6.7) so let me rephrase my question—-
Is the filter in my fuel bowl (2002 f350) sufficient to catch fine metal shavings if the fuel pump were it to fail?
Thanks!
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-25-2018, 06:47 AM
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Regulated return with pre and post-pump filters.
Fuel pump won't fail like that.
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1994 F350 7.3 PSD 4X4 ZF5 DUALLY
PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV DELETE. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.

2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.


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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-25-2018, 08:14 AM
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You can buy the Bosch fuel pump itself, on line for about $80..
NOT the assembly that everybody wants to sell you for $500..
It's takes about 1 hour to do the change over...
Dismantling the assembly and installing the new pump...
I had 250K on mine and figured I'd be proactive and replace it...

XS_SUV
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-01-2018, 12:23 AM
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This is my set up.

Factory pump, aftermarket filters & bases. The pump was relocated back about 3-4 feet from its original position on the frame rail, to make the suction-side shorter. The factory line was only 5/16" ID, and was quite long. By relocating it rearward,and installing the ITP in-tank mod's (eliminating the filter foot, recirc valve, etc., and using 1/2" S/S lines) and installing the Pre- and Post filtration, the pump is now much more efficient and not working so hard.

The pump is the original on the truck (since 2000), so I'm getting a new Bosch 044 to replace this one, but the setup will be the same.


ON EDIT:
Forgot to mention, I'm running a full regulated-return system up front, so no factory fuel bowl/filter up there...
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Al in SoCal
AFE Intake; Garrett 38R; DieselSite Turbine Jacket
HPS Hi-Temp CAC Boots; Banks Big IC, Banks Engine Brake
External Oil cooler & Remote filter; Stealth 4-line Twin HPOP, Melling LPOP
Swamp's: 160cc/30% Injectors & HVHF IDM; DP-Tuner F5; Fluidamper Balancer
Custom Full Reg.-return Fuel System, Pre-& Post-pump filtration
Mishimoto Radiator & Exp. Tank; T444 Water Pump w/Filtration
Bellowed S/S Up-pipes; 4" Turbo-back Custom Exhaust into Twin Stacks
SouthBend D-D Clutch; ZF 6-spd, GearVendors O/U Drive

Last edited by Calico5; 10-01-2018 at 12:27 AM.
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-01-2018, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calico5 View Post
This is my set up.

Factory pump, aftermarket filters & bases. The pump was relocated back about 3-4 feet from its original position on the frame rail, to make the suction-side shorter. The factory line was only 5/16" ID, and was quite long. By relocating it rearward,and installing the ITP in-tank mod's (eliminating the filter foot, recirc valve, etc., and using 1/2" S/S lines) and installing the Pre- and Post filtration, the pump is now much more efficient and not working so hard.

The pump is the original on the truck (since 2000), so I'm getting a new Bosch 044 to replace this one, but the setup will be the same.


ON EDIT:
Forgot to mention, I'm running a full regulated-return system up front, so no factory fuel bowl/filter up there...
Just wondering, if you have a pre-filter between tank and pump, why do you need a post-filter? seems like fuel would be clean going into and out of pump, with return back to tank.

I was considering a pre-pump filter because if I fully understood what I read fuel that isn’t used at bowl is sent through pressure relief valve and back to tank and by filtering fuel first stops contaminated from getting caught in the pressure relief valve on the bowl....... of course I’ve been mistaken before 😉
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 07:16 AM
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Because the pre pump is larger micron, post pump is smaller micron.

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1994 F350 7.3 PSD 4X4 ZF5 DUALLY
PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV DELETE. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.

2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.


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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79jasper View Post
Because the pre pump is larger micron, post pump is smaller micron.

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OK- thanks 79jasper!
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-03-2018, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Horn View Post
Just wondering, if you have a pre-filter between tank and pump, why do you need a post-filter? seems like fuel would be clean going into and out of pump, with return back to tank.
I was considering a pre-pump filter because if I fully understood what I read fuel that isnít used at bowl is sent through pressure relief valve and back to tank and by filtering fuel first stops contaminated from getting caught in the pressure relief valve on the bowl....... of course Iíve been mistaken before &#x1f609
Quote:
Originally Posted by 79jasper View Post
Because the pre pump is larger micron, post pump is smaller micron.
Haha...you beat me to it!

Jasper is correct, the pre-pump filter is a larger micron rating (~10-15), while the post-pump filter is around 2 micron.

Water separation works better in a pre-pump (suction side) filter because the lower suction-side pressure tends to make the microscopic air and water droplets get larger and coalesce easier, forming larger droplets, which can more easily be filtered/separated.

The secondary (post-pump) filter catches the super-fine particles which might cause issues with the injectors. This type of arrangement is used on most heavy duty, over-the-road diesels as well as industrial and stationary engines.

The advantage to this arrangement is that ALL of the fuel gets filtered and returned to the tank, over and over, so the whole system stays very clean. The disadvantage is that the filters can clog much quicker if you get a load of contaminated fuel. However the spin-on type filters are relatively cheap and have a much greater capacity than the stock element. You just gotta change them regularly!

As far as the factory Powerstroke fuel pressure relief valve is concerned: It bypasses UNFILTERED fuel back to the tank, and only the fuel needed/used by the injectors is filtered through the filter element.

~Al

Al in SoCal
AFE Intake; Garrett 38R; DieselSite Turbine Jacket
HPS Hi-Temp CAC Boots; Banks Big IC, Banks Engine Brake
External Oil cooler & Remote filter; Stealth 4-line Twin HPOP, Melling LPOP
Swamp's: 160cc/30% Injectors & HVHF IDM; DP-Tuner F5; Fluidamper Balancer
Custom Full Reg.-return Fuel System, Pre-& Post-pump filtration
Mishimoto Radiator & Exp. Tank; T444 Water Pump w/Filtration
Bellowed S/S Up-pipes; 4" Turbo-back Custom Exhaust into Twin Stacks
SouthBend D-D Clutch; ZF 6-spd, GearVendors O/U Drive
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-05-2018, 09:03 PM
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Is the final filter needed?

I also have a fully regulated return system and a pre pump filter. I run a 2 micron filter in the Dahl pre - pump but could run a 10 or 30. Probably would if I lived in a very cold place. I leave the stock Raycor 2 micron filter element in the stock assembly as a final safety feature. I rarely change the final filter as the Dahl keeps the system clean, I change the Dahl element every 25k and drain the water cock whenever I see water in it, which is often. I don't have any fuel pressure problems run a regulated 65 PSI. My system uses the stock fuel and supply lines, full flow through the heads, regulating the system pressure to the engine with an adjustable regulator, stock regulator is blanked off return piping connected to the RR regulator return line.

I really like Calico5's description of his system, that would protect the system well from pump damage, however unlikely, just as well as keeping the stock filter and keep it in one compact area package.


So, to me a filter of some kind post pump filter makes sense while nothing is an unnecessary risk easily prevented.

2002 F250 7.3L PSD, bought new now at 226K miles, 4R100 Auto, Crew Cab, Short Bed, ITP Regulated Fuel Return system, ITP head to head SS oil cross over, Hutch in tank mod
Harpoon de tank vent, DIESELSITE Dahl 100 Pre-Pump Fuel Filter, DIESELSITE Return Fuel Line Cooler, DIESELSITE Engine Coolant Filter, DIESELSITE Auxilliary Transmission Cooler, DIESELSITE Gage Package, Pyro, Trans & Boost, Extreme Diesel AD injectors, Ford AIS Air Filter System, BTM straight through muffler, Moog Ball Joints, Rancho Shocks, Rotella ELC Coolant ,Stock Engine Program
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Last edited by Oneof6; 10-05-2018 at 09:05 PM.
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-07-2018, 08:13 AM
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Hi,
I put on a filter to help catch water and debris.
It is so difficult to access the stock fuel filter on my van, the DAHL
helps extend the interval before I need to change the stock filter.

dahl100filter copy

2000 E350, I ordered it from the factory, new. Dual A/C, XLT Super Duty trim, 3.55 limited slip, trailer tow class IV package, dual alternators,
speed control/tilt wheel, HD4R100 installed @203k miles, B&M cast pan,
Dahl 100 fuel filter, deleted stock fuel bowl drain valve (leaker),
replaced turbo pedestal w/ non-EBPV, deleted AIH. Bilstein shocks. Jensen VX7021 Navigation receiver, Garmin 65W dash cam
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-07-2018, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=Calico5;4641348



Water separation works better in a pre-pump (suction side) filter because the lower suction-side pressure tends to make the microscopic air and water droplets get larger and coalesce easier, forming larger droplets, which can more easily be filtered/separated

~Al[/QUOTE]

If I’m understanding this correctly—if I installed a prefilter it would be more efficient at removing water rather than trapping it at the fuel bowl?

I’ve been periodically checking my fuel bowl, draining in jar and letting settle- so far no signs of water.
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-07-2018, 06:06 PM
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Pre pump filter and separators

Yes, a water separator will work better at lower inlet flow velocities. Not surprised that yo are not finding water in the on engine filter assembly, they just don't work well. By the time you get a dash indication there you have a lot of water. Before I installed a DAHL I never found any water from the stock separator, I drain some out of the DAHL frequently along with other slimy stuff.

2002 F250 7.3L PSD, bought new now at 226K miles, 4R100 Auto, Crew Cab, Short Bed, ITP Regulated Fuel Return system, ITP head to head SS oil cross over, Hutch in tank mod
Harpoon de tank vent, DIESELSITE Dahl 100 Pre-Pump Fuel Filter, DIESELSITE Return Fuel Line Cooler, DIESELSITE Engine Coolant Filter, DIESELSITE Auxilliary Transmission Cooler, DIESELSITE Gage Package, Pyro, Trans & Boost, Extreme Diesel AD injectors, Ford AIS Air Filter System, BTM straight through muffler, Moog Ball Joints, Rancho Shocks, Rotella ELC Coolant ,Stock Engine Program
Modified for I-Pod Connection
We b playing Scotland The Brave to Jimmy Hendrix
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calico5 View Post
This is my set up.

Factory pump, aftermarket filters & bases. The pump was relocated back about 3-4 feet from its original position on the frame rail, to make the suction-side shorter. The factory line was only 5/16" ID, and was quite long. By relocating it rearward,and installing the ITP in-tank mod's (eliminating the filter foot, recirc valve, etc., and using 1/2" S/S lines) and installing the Pre- and Post filtration, the pump is now much more efficient and not working so hard.

The pump is the original on the truck (since 2000), so I'm getting a new Bosch 044 to replace this one, but the setup will be the same.


ON EDIT:
Forgot to mention, I'm running a full regulated-return system up front, so no factory fuel bowl/filter up there...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oneof6 View Post
Yes, a water separator will work better at lower inlet flow velocities. Not surprised that yo are not finding water in the on engine filter assembly, they just don't work well. By the time you get a dash indication there you have a lot of water. Before I installed a DAHL I never found any water from the stock separator, I drain some out of the DAHL frequently along with other slimy stuff.

I’m not sure what you gentlemen mean as “fully regulated return” as opposed to my stock fuel system?

For right now I don’t want to do the tank mods or lose the racor filter in fuel bowl, but do want to eliminate any water. Which water separator/filter would you reccomend I put on the suction side of the pump, and how much modifying will I have to do to the lines or does it come with correct fittings.

Thanks
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 10:05 AM
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Stock is dead headed.
You don't have a return.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

1994 F350 7.3 PSD 4X4 ZF5 DUALLY
PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV DELETE. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.

2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.


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