Aftermarket Fuel Filter? - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up Upgrades and Aftermarket - 7.3L Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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OK, I was thinking of the pressure release valve back to the tank as being a return- though I realize it has to surpass a given psi first
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 11:57 AM
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Stock vs Regulated Return

Stock system fuel is pumped into the fuel filter assembly and a spring loaded and controlled pressure regulator "regulates" the system pressure and diverts the excess fuel back to the tank, most of the fuel supplied to the fuel filter assembly is actually diverted back to the tank. From there fuel that does go through the filter and into each fuel heads fuel rails goes in on one end of the head and no outlet, uneven access to fuel between cylinders and entrained air has no place to go except the injectors. That is loud and poor running conditions.


Regulated return mod. The stock fuel regulator is bypassed or removed, an existing head port on each head is connected typically to an adjustable gaged regulator and the gaged regulator outlet is connected to the existing return to tank line. This results in a through flow of fuel at regulated pressure going through each head and fuel rails through the gaged regulator and back to the tank. Some have deleted the fuel filter assembly entirely, I don't recommend that as it is unnecessary to mod up to a fully regulated system.

Pro's …. Quieter, runs smoother and you might pick up 1-2 MPG

Cons … Mod cost 400 to 600 average, More stuff to leak, return fuel will be hot since every drop is going through a head and most volume going back into the tank.



K

2002 F250 7.3L PSD, bought new now at 226K miles, 4R100 Auto, Crew Cab, Short Bed, ITP Regulated Fuel Return system, ITP head to head SS oil cross over, Hutch in tank mod
Harpoon de tank vent, DIESELSITE Dahl 100 Pre-Pump Fuel Filter, DIESELSITE Return Fuel Line Cooler, DIESELSITE Engine Coolant Filter, DIESELSITE Auxilliary Transmission Cooler, DIESELSITE Gage Package, Pyro, Trans & Boost, Extreme Diesel AD injectors, Ford AIS Air Filter System, BTM straight through muffler, Moog Ball Joints, Rancho Shocks, Rotella ELC Coolant ,Stock Engine Program
Modified for I-Pod Connection
We b playing Scotland The Brave to Jimmy Hendrix
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 12:51 PM
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As 79jasper said, the stock system dead-heads the fuel in the fuel rails inside the cylinder heads.

Theoretically, any entrained air is removed inside the stock filter housing, and only the fuel used by the injectors is filtered. In actuality, however, quite a bit of air makes it through to the heads, where it get trapped and ultimately passes through the injectors.

The "Regulated return" system opens up the ends of each head and allows full fuel flow in and out. The head rails are kept at pressure by the return regulator, and any entrained air is passed back to the tank, where it is much more readily removed/released.

As a second advantage, cheaper and more efficient spin-on filtering can be added, further increasing the life of the pump and system.

~Al
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Al in SoCal
AFE Intake; Garrett 38R; DieselSite Turbine Jacket
HPS Hi-Temp CAC Boots; Banks Big IC, Banks Engine Brake
External Oil cooler & Remote filter; Stealth 4-line Twin HPOP, Melling LPOP
Swamp's: 160cc/30% Injectors & HVHF IDM; DP-Tuner F5; Fluidamper Balancer
Custom Full Reg.-return Fuel System, Pre-& Post-pump filtration
Mishimoto Radiator & Exp. Tank; T444 Water Pump w/Filtration
Bellowed S/S Up-pipes; 4" Turbo-back Custom Exhaust into Twin Stacks
SouthBend D-D Clutch; ZF 6-spd, GearVendors O/U Drive
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 03:49 PM
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Pre Pump Filter Recommendation

I was faced with this same decision years ago, I chose the DAHL 100.

It is both a great water separator and filter and does a great job of both

It has a visible bowl to let you know when to drain the water out.

Due to the way it works much of the filter plugging debris drops out into the bowl I creasing the life expectancy of the filter element.

It is easy to service, drop it down and take it apart every 20 to 25 K miles and change the filter element, take about 10 minutes.

It can be I stalled into the existing SS line between tank and pump pretty easy. I chose to delete that SS line and hook a 30R9 hose from tank to DAHL and a smaller 30R9 hose from DAHL to fuel pump.

In a roadside emergency I could jumper around it easily

I have it mounted just behind the transfer case where it is above the bottom profile of the truck and protected by the skid plate already there.
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2002 F250 7.3L PSD, bought new now at 226K miles, 4R100 Auto, Crew Cab, Short Bed, ITP Regulated Fuel Return system, ITP head to head SS oil cross over, Hutch in tank mod
Harpoon de tank vent, DIESELSITE Dahl 100 Pre-Pump Fuel Filter, DIESELSITE Return Fuel Line Cooler, DIESELSITE Engine Coolant Filter, DIESELSITE Auxilliary Transmission Cooler, DIESELSITE Gage Package, Pyro, Trans & Boost, Extreme Diesel AD injectors, Ford AIS Air Filter System, BTM straight through muffler, Moog Ball Joints, Rancho Shocks, Rotella ELC Coolant ,Stock Engine Program
Modified for I-Pod Connection
We b playing Scotland The Brave to Jimmy Hendrix

Last edited by Oneof6; 10-08-2018 at 03:51 PM. Reason: Spellun
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oneof6 View Post
I was faced with this same decision years ago, I chose the DAHL 100.

It is both a great water separator and filter and does a great job of both

It has a visible bowl to let you know when to drain the water out.

Due to the way it works much of the filter plugging debris drops out into the bowl I creasing the life expectancy of the filter element.

It is easy to service, drop it down and take it apart every 20 to 25 K miles and change the filter element, take about 10 minutes.

It can be I stalled into the existing SS line between tank and pump pretty easy. I chose to delete that SS line and hook a 30R9 hose from tank to DAHL and a smaller 30R9 hose from DAHL to fuel pump.

In a roadside emergency I could jumper around it easily

I have it mounted just behind the transfer case where it is above the bottom profile of the truck and protected by the skid plate already there.
PICS!


~Al

Al in SoCal
AFE Intake; Garrett 38R; DieselSite Turbine Jacket
HPS Hi-Temp CAC Boots; Banks Big IC, Banks Engine Brake
External Oil cooler & Remote filter; Stealth 4-line Twin HPOP, Melling LPOP
Swamp's: 160cc/30% Injectors & HVHF IDM; DP-Tuner F5; Fluidamper Balancer
Custom Full Reg.-return Fuel System, Pre-& Post-pump filtration
Mishimoto Radiator & Exp. Tank; T444 Water Pump w/Filtration
Bellowed S/S Up-pipes; 4" Turbo-back Custom Exhaust into Twin Stacks
SouthBend D-D Clutch; ZF 6-spd, GearVendors O/U Drive
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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 04:44 PM
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Here's my regulated return system.
As you can see, the stock filter bowl was removed completely. REALLY cleans up the top of the engine.
The filters were relocated to the left frame rail (as mentioned in an earlier post).
With custom bracketry, everything fits nicely under the stock cover. Mr. Smog-man doesn't even know it's there...
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Al in SoCal
AFE Intake; Garrett 38R; DieselSite Turbine Jacket
HPS Hi-Temp CAC Boots; Banks Big IC, Banks Engine Brake
External Oil cooler & Remote filter; Stealth 4-line Twin HPOP, Melling LPOP
Swamp's: 160cc/30% Injectors & HVHF IDM; DP-Tuner F5; Fluidamper Balancer
Custom Full Reg.-return Fuel System, Pre-& Post-pump filtration
Mishimoto Radiator & Exp. Tank; T444 Water Pump w/Filtration
Bellowed S/S Up-pipes; 4" Turbo-back Custom Exhaust into Twin Stacks
SouthBend D-D Clutch; ZF 6-spd, GearVendors O/U Drive
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 06:45 PM
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DAHL 100 Photos - Hutch Mod Photos

I am impressed with Calico5's truck, neat as a pin and it looks like a show truck. My truck was a show truck about a year then had to be a work horse. Attached are the photos I took after I did the Hutch Mod and and DAHL 100 install in 2003. I went into the tank three times that year, all the mods worked and there has not been a need to drop the tank since. The same DAHL is in there, just road grimy and gets the water out. Filter is harder to change than a spin on, but not really difficult for a once a year deal. Hope this helps someone. It is all hooked up on 30R9 hoses, I did change the hoses after 10 years but they were still good. I will try to find some Regulated Return Photos, or just go out and take new ones of the old workhorse. Those are NOT my feet, Selena held the pickup while I took the phots but that is my pet Eore.
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2002 F250 7.3L PSD, bought new now at 226K miles, 4R100 Auto, Crew Cab, Short Bed, ITP Regulated Fuel Return system, ITP head to head SS oil cross over, Hutch in tank mod
Harpoon de tank vent, DIESELSITE Dahl 100 Pre-Pump Fuel Filter, DIESELSITE Return Fuel Line Cooler, DIESELSITE Engine Coolant Filter, DIESELSITE Auxilliary Transmission Cooler, DIESELSITE Gage Package, Pyro, Trans & Boost, Extreme Diesel AD injectors, Ford AIS Air Filter System, BTM straight through muffler, Moog Ball Joints, Rancho Shocks, Rotella ELC Coolant ,Stock Engine Program
Modified for I-Pod Connection
We b playing Scotland The Brave to Jimmy Hendrix
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oneof6 View Post
Stock system fuel is pumped into the fuel filter assembly and a spring loaded and controlled pressure regulator "regulates" the system pressure and diverts the excess fuel back to the tank, most of the fuel supplied to the fuel filter assembly is actually diverted back to the tank. From there fuel that does go through the filter and into each fuel heads fuel rails goes in on one end of the head and no outlet, uneven access to fuel between cylinders and entrained air has no place to go except the injectors. That is loud and poor running conditions.


Regulated return mod. The stock fuel regulator is bypassed or removed, an existing head port on each head is connected typically to an adjustable gaged regulator and the gaged regulator outlet is connected to the existing return to tank line. This results in a through flow of fuel at regulated pressure going through each head and fuel rails through the gaged regulator and back to the tank. Some have deleted the fuel filter assembly entirely, I don't recommend that as it is unnecessary to mod up to a fully regulated system.

Pro's …. Quieter, runs smoother and you might pick up 1-2 MPG

Cons … Mod cost 400 to 600 average, More stuff to leak, return fuel will be hot since every drop is going through a head and most volume going back into the tank.



K

Thanks Oneof6! RT had explained the fuel system to me too— I guess I had forgotten about the fuel sitting in the heads
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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-09-2018, 11:22 AM
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My Regulated Return

Attached is a photo, taken this morning when I checked the oil, of my Regulated Return System. I installed it when the truck was relatively new after I tried a lot of other things to quiet it down some. It used to look a lot cleaner before I allowed a protective layer of grime as rust preventative . For noise reduction the RR worked better than the other things I tried. It had a clank clank clank that sounded like a coffee can with and angry chipmunk in it armed with a ball peen hammer. Truck ran well and lost the sound when driving but it just didn't fit my sense of order to sit there idling and hearing that.

Back then not all that many people had Regulated Returns, much of it was custom made. Now there are many commercial product offerings and some changes from that experimental era. One of which is that newer RR systems almost all have steel braided lines, mine had hose on push lock connections. That held up well for about 5 years then I had to replace the hoses, surprised I didn't have a any leaks as bad as they were cracked. I went back with hose but did a better job of insulating them. Probably due for a proactive hose change, when they start to get stiff that's when they crack the first ply, wait too long and the internal ply goes. So I give them the flex test occasionally. Takes me about an hour to change the hose parts. It is not regular fuel 30 series hose. Likely if you do a RR you buy a kit and it will have braided hose and never have to concern yourself with changing them. But that's one reason the RR systems you buy cost more than mine did.

In the photo one can see the hose on the PS front of the head going to the left side of the regulator and the hose on the DS head rear position goes to the right side of the regulator. Combined with the stock fuel line hook ups this produces a full flow circuit through both heads, no more deadhead air trap. The hose coming out of the bottom of the regulator goes from the regulator to the existing return to tank line, through a cooler on the frame rail before tank and back into the tank. This is one of the mods I was always glad I did, it actually did what I needed it to get rid of that knocking, which I believe was related to entrained air in the fuel trapped in the dead end fuel rails. I did another mod, pulled the LL injector in # 8 and replaced it with an AD injector and it didn't do anything, still mad chipmunk. That cost me more money and busted knuckles and didn't do anything mechanically significant.


Before anyone points out that my waste gate controller is effectively disconnected I know that, that is the way I run it. I just get my foot out of it at > 15 PSI by my boost gage. Since I don't pull my job trailer around now it is pretty rare for me WOT for anything.


Truck is a dependable work horse, runs better than when it was brand new in April 2002.
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2002 F250 7.3L PSD, bought new now at 226K miles, 4R100 Auto, Crew Cab, Short Bed, ITP Regulated Fuel Return system, ITP head to head SS oil cross over, Hutch in tank mod
Harpoon de tank vent, DIESELSITE Dahl 100 Pre-Pump Fuel Filter, DIESELSITE Return Fuel Line Cooler, DIESELSITE Engine Coolant Filter, DIESELSITE Auxilliary Transmission Cooler, DIESELSITE Gage Package, Pyro, Trans & Boost, Extreme Diesel AD injectors, Ford AIS Air Filter System, BTM straight through muffler, Moog Ball Joints, Rancho Shocks, Rotella ELC Coolant ,Stock Engine Program
Modified for I-Pod Connection
We b playing Scotland The Brave to Jimmy Hendrix

Last edited by Oneof6; 10-09-2018 at 11:30 AM.
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-09-2018, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=Oneof6;4642160]Attached is a photo, taken this morning when I checked the oil, of my Regulated Return System installed when the truck was relatively new after I tried a lot of other things to quiet it down some. I used to look a lot cleaner before I allowed a protective layer of grime as rust preventative. For noise reduction this worked better than the other things I tried. It had a clank clank clank that sounded like a coffee can with chipmunk in it with a hammer. Truck ran well but it just didn't fit my sense of order to sit there idling and hearing that.

Back then not all that many people had Regulated Returns, much of it was custom made. Now there are many commercial product offerings and some changes from that experimental era. One of which is that newer RR systems almost all have braided lines, mine had hose on push lock connections. That held up well for about 5 years then I had to replace the hoses, surprised I didn't have a any leaks as bad as they were cracked. I went back with hose but did a better job of insulating them. Probably due for a proactive hose change, when they start to get stiff that's when they crack the first ply, wait too long and the internal ply goes. So I give them the flex test occasionally. Takes me about an hour to change the hose parts. It is not regular fuel 30 series hose. Likely if you do a RR you will have braided hose



Actually I was very surprised how quiet my truck was when I first went and picked it up, but it’s nice to know this mod is available. Above/behind your fuel bowl—is that a fuel pressure gage?
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-09-2018, 03:35 PM
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Gage

Yes, that is the pressure gage on the RR system regulator. On the top there is a socket hex screw with a lock nut on it. Loosen the lock nut and adjust the fuel pressure with a 3/16 allen wrench to a quantified pressure setting there and it sets pressure for the flow through the engine.

2002 F250 7.3L PSD, bought new now at 226K miles, 4R100 Auto, Crew Cab, Short Bed, ITP Regulated Fuel Return system, ITP head to head SS oil cross over, Hutch in tank mod
Harpoon de tank vent, DIESELSITE Dahl 100 Pre-Pump Fuel Filter, DIESELSITE Return Fuel Line Cooler, DIESELSITE Engine Coolant Filter, DIESELSITE Auxilliary Transmission Cooler, DIESELSITE Gage Package, Pyro, Trans & Boost, Extreme Diesel AD injectors, Ford AIS Air Filter System, BTM straight through muffler, Moog Ball Joints, Rancho Shocks, Rotella ELC Coolant ,Stock Engine Program
Modified for I-Pod Connection
We b playing Scotland The Brave to Jimmy Hendrix
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-09-2018, 08:38 PM
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I put the RiffRaff FRX system on mine. I is only about 200 bucks and works well. You have to adjust the pressure return with springs and it does not have a gauge, but the results are the same, no more dead head fuel system.
DENNY

1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 01:29 PM
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That's a good option, I have not adjusted my fuel pressure in more than 5 years so obviously having that dynamic while running ability is not much advantage over a static adjustment like springs. However, I would always check the final spring adjusted pressure with a gage. Set up Maybe 50 bucks? Its pretty easy to just remove a plug from the fuel bowl backside, add a short braided line and a visible gage, I ran one for awhile before the RR. Its in my box of assorted testing fixtures haven't needed to use it in my truck since RR but have on other peoples to check their fuel pressure.

2002 F250 7.3L PSD, bought new now at 226K miles, 4R100 Auto, Crew Cab, Short Bed, ITP Regulated Fuel Return system, ITP head to head SS oil cross over, Hutch in tank mod
Harpoon de tank vent, DIESELSITE Dahl 100 Pre-Pump Fuel Filter, DIESELSITE Return Fuel Line Cooler, DIESELSITE Engine Coolant Filter, DIESELSITE Auxilliary Transmission Cooler, DIESELSITE Gage Package, Pyro, Trans & Boost, Extreme Diesel AD injectors, Ford AIS Air Filter System, BTM straight through muffler, Moog Ball Joints, Rancho Shocks, Rotella ELC Coolant ,Stock Engine Program
Modified for I-Pod Connection
We b playing Scotland The Brave to Jimmy Hendrix

Last edited by Oneof6; 10-10-2018 at 03:23 PM.
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
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I am impressed with Calico5's truck, neat as a pin and it looks like a show truck..
Thanks Oneof6.

It's no show truck, for sure. But I do like to keep my engine bay tidy! All my vehicles are clean that way...

When I was a fleet mech (many years ago) I started pressure washing all the trucks engine-bays, every time I'd work on/service them. The boss initially complained (taking too much time) but after awhile he liked the fact that when the hoods were up, the truck's engines looked sharp. Sometimes the engine bays were cleaner than outsides!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oneof6 View Post
Those are NOT my feet...
And damn, I was going to ask about your sandals... and what color polish you used on your nails! Lol


~Al

Al in SoCal
AFE Intake; Garrett 38R; DieselSite Turbine Jacket
HPS Hi-Temp CAC Boots; Banks Big IC, Banks Engine Brake
External Oil cooler & Remote filter; Stealth 4-line Twin HPOP, Melling LPOP
Swamp's: 160cc/30% Injectors & HVHF IDM; DP-Tuner F5; Fluidamper Balancer
Custom Full Reg.-return Fuel System, Pre-& Post-pump filtration
Mishimoto Radiator & Exp. Tank; T444 Water Pump w/Filtration
Bellowed S/S Up-pipes; 4" Turbo-back Custom Exhaust into Twin Stacks
SouthBend D-D Clutch; ZF 6-spd, GearVendors O/U Drive
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