Fuel bowl delete - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up Upgrades and Aftermarket - 7.3L Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2016, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel bowl delete

First, I've been researching for about a week and read a lot of information about deleting the fuel bowl. But, mostly what I've read about are members that have paid for a kit to do the delete. I've just finished a Hutch mod and installed an AirDog FP100 and don't need a kit. I have a simple plan, but I've been told it won't work.

I've been researching Fuel Pressure Regulators w/return and I plan on using one with the 'existing fuel lines' taken from the FB. The input and return line should not be a problem, and the single output, I can split with a fuel distribution block:

Earl's 100179, Earl's Fuel Distribution Blocks | Earl's

Fittings are available to adapt any line and I have a tube bender to re-route the lines if necessary. Anyone see a problem with this, so far? If so, please advise.

The next problem, I'm told, is that the vehicle won't run without the FB heater. It is somehow tied to the PCM and if the heater goes out the PCM shuts down. I've searched this and some members say they've disconnected theirs with no problems, and others post that the truck won't start without it. Anyone have first hand knowledge on this topic? I can't try it myself because I've got a major leak at the drain valve and don't want to screw around with electrical connections.

I need to make a decision by tomorrow whether to order O-rings or Fuel Pressure Regulator supplies. I would rather do the delete, but don't want a problem with the heater. Thanks for any advice/information.

2012 F-350 SD Crew Cab, SRW, LWB, 4 X 4, FX4 Offroad, Bilsteins and Bilstein Steering Stableizer, AirLift Air Bags with onboard compressor, BedLocker electric bed cover, Hellwig 1 1/4 inch rear anti-sway bar, 2017 G37 Turbo, ATS Stage I towing transmission kit, White Platinum w/Adobe, Navigation, Moon Roof, 5th Wheel Prep, Step Tail Gate, front 2 inch receiver, completely insulated, Pioneer speakers, King Ranch Package

'99 E-350 HiTop Companion Van Conversion, 7.3 SD Diesel, 5-tune DP Tuner, Triple AutoMeter C2 A-pillar gauge pod, dash mount AutoMeter C2 fuel pressure gauge, twin K&N's, 203* mod, Deraler tubed trannie pan, B&M trannie cooler, AirLift air bags, Bilsteins, 4" DiamondEye turbo back exhaust, Air Dog fuel filtration system, Hutch mod, header wrapped and high temperature painted Bellowed Up-Pipes.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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201 looks and no replies; but that's ok. I pulled the fuel bowl yesterday and did not have any leaks. The problem was coming from the drain hose that connects to the nipple of the drain valve; it was partially off. So, when I pulled the drain lever, it partially drained down the tube, and partially sprayed all over the top of the engine. I replaced the tube and used hose clamps to make sure that it does not leak again.

If you've never pulled the fuel bowl, it is a real PITA on the E-350's; be prepared.

Anyway, I won't be deleting it until the next time. Maybe by then, I'll have a valid answer about deleting the fuel bowl heater.

2012 F-350 SD Crew Cab, SRW, LWB, 4 X 4, FX4 Offroad, Bilsteins and Bilstein Steering Stableizer, AirLift Air Bags with onboard compressor, BedLocker electric bed cover, Hellwig 1 1/4 inch rear anti-sway bar, 2017 G37 Turbo, ATS Stage I towing transmission kit, White Platinum w/Adobe, Navigation, Moon Roof, 5th Wheel Prep, Step Tail Gate, front 2 inch receiver, completely insulated, Pioneer speakers, King Ranch Package

'99 E-350 HiTop Companion Van Conversion, 7.3 SD Diesel, 5-tune DP Tuner, Triple AutoMeter C2 A-pillar gauge pod, dash mount AutoMeter C2 fuel pressure gauge, twin K&N's, 203* mod, Deraler tubed trannie pan, B&M trannie cooler, AirLift air bags, Bilsteins, 4" DiamondEye turbo back exhaust, Air Dog fuel filtration system, Hutch mod, header wrapped and high temperature painted Bellowed Up-Pipes.

Last edited by clev; 05-17-2016 at 07:11 PM. Reason: additional
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 09:36 PM
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Clev I've missed this thread and did not receive PM from you or would have replied.
Heater if shorts out, it will blow the fuse it shares with the PCM. It maybe left unplugged.

Have you looked at Riff Raff for a return setup?
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Hi diesel. I won't be deleting until maybe the next time. I appreciate your input.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-18-2016, 01:05 AM
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What is your goal? That will help us determine your needs.

Also, Airdog pumps usually don't last very long. The stock pump is as reliable as it gets and will support up to.400hp.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-11-2016, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Concerned about fuel pressure and am back on the 'Delete Fuel Bowl' band wagon. I'll probably have to replace the two output fuel lines and need to know about the connections to the fuel rails; the one at the rear passenger side behind the turbo down pipe and the front one driver's side. Do the fuel lines screw into the fuel rail, male into female, or is there a male stud that the 'female' fuel connection screws onto? Either way, I need to know the connection size of the fuel line.; example: 1/8 npt male on the fuel line. I'm putting my order together and this would save me a lot of time.

2012 F-350 SD Crew Cab, SRW, LWB, 4 X 4, FX4 Offroad, Bilsteins and Bilstein Steering Stableizer, AirLift Air Bags with onboard compressor, BedLocker electric bed cover, Hellwig 1 1/4 inch rear anti-sway bar, 2017 G37 Turbo, ATS Stage I towing transmission kit, White Platinum w/Adobe, Navigation, Moon Roof, 5th Wheel Prep, Step Tail Gate, front 2 inch receiver, completely insulated, Pioneer speakers, King Ranch Package

'99 E-350 HiTop Companion Van Conversion, 7.3 SD Diesel, 5-tune DP Tuner, Triple AutoMeter C2 A-pillar gauge pod, dash mount AutoMeter C2 fuel pressure gauge, twin K&N's, 203* mod, Deraler tubed trannie pan, B&M trannie cooler, AirLift air bags, Bilsteins, 4" DiamondEye turbo back exhaust, Air Dog fuel filtration system, Hutch mod, header wrapped and high temperature painted Bellowed Up-Pipes.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-11-2016, 08:10 PM
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The 4 fuel ports on the heads are 1/8" NPTF. The fittings the stock lines use that are screwed into the 1/8" NPTF ports are -4 Vibralok fittings, with screens and check valves. You can remove those fittings and plumb it with 1/8" NPT fittings without issue.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-11-2016, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again, pik. One other thing, most of the FPR's don't specify gas or diesel; does that matter? Can they be used with either type of fuel? I'm looking at the Aeromotive 13129.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-11-2016, 09:01 PM
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I'd probably call them or email them to make sure it's OK for diesel.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-11-2016, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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I'd planned on doing that on Monday.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-11-2016, 10:58 PM
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Fuel pressure isn't an issue on a stock injector truck. as long as the system is working correctly.

Most stock fuel systems, if healthy, can support up to 175/80 injectors.

Also if you want to upgrade fuel flow to injectors and lessen psi drop you need to run a 4 line fuel system. There is fuel test ports on the front of the passenger head and rear of the drivers side.

Honestly the best bang for your buck and something that will support 500hp is cnc's fuel line kit and dieselorings billet fpr to adjust fuel pressure.

There isn't a need to get rid of the fuel bowl until 600hp+
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-13-2016, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input, blue. My primary purpose of deleting the FB is to just get rid of it. With the AD, I don't need it, and I want to be able to dial in the correct fuel pressure. I don't want to have to rebuild it again in a few more years; I don't want anymore leaks. I've found a few good regulators with return, adjustable, and gauge port. If I can't adapt the existing fuel lines, making new ones should not be a problem. However, I am still not fully committed.

2012 F-350 SD Crew Cab, SRW, LWB, 4 X 4, FX4 Offroad, Bilsteins and Bilstein Steering Stableizer, AirLift Air Bags with onboard compressor, BedLocker electric bed cover, Hellwig 1 1/4 inch rear anti-sway bar, 2017 G37 Turbo, ATS Stage I towing transmission kit, White Platinum w/Adobe, Navigation, Moon Roof, 5th Wheel Prep, Step Tail Gate, front 2 inch receiver, completely insulated, Pioneer speakers, King Ranch Package

'99 E-350 HiTop Companion Van Conversion, 7.3 SD Diesel, 5-tune DP Tuner, Triple AutoMeter C2 A-pillar gauge pod, dash mount AutoMeter C2 fuel pressure gauge, twin K&N's, 203* mod, Deraler tubed trannie pan, B&M trannie cooler, AirLift air bags, Bilsteins, 4" DiamondEye turbo back exhaust, Air Dog fuel filtration system, Hutch mod, header wrapped and high temperature painted Bellowed Up-Pipes.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-13-2016, 08:00 PM
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Not a bad idea building your own fuel system. I know summit sells all the right fittings and lines for fairly cheap.

The only issue I have if your trying to make it reliable is the AD. They usually don't last more than a few years. The stock pumps usually last 300k+ miles. I have 260k on mine, Corey has 440k on his.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-13-2016, 09:10 PM
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I agree with blue, i have one of my body that has the airdog for a bit more than a year and his gonna be going back to the stock pump really soon. Was working well for a while but start having problems with the pressure.

Hutch mod, stock pump, cnc 4 line kit with the billet FRP with the 3 springs to choose your pressure and you'll be set.

Just my opinion

Cheers


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auto, 37/13.5/20 open country, Bushwaker cut-out flare, Bilstein 5100, Maxtow gauges (EGT, Trans temp, Boost), 4 inch diamond eye turbo back axel drop with BTM muffler, S&B intake, RR AIH plug, billet FPR with gold spring, CNCfab Sgt 1 HPOP, CNCfab HPOP line with cross over, CNCfab 4 line fuel kit, ARP heads stud, RDP plenum reinforcing insert, complete CAC intercooler boot kit, full engine seal and gasket kit, 360* turbo rebuilt, WWII, EGPV delete, dark blue CPS, Hydra chip with SDK tunes, Polished compressor manifold, HD coolant, 203* thermostat, Transgo HD kit, Energy suspension bushing kit, front and rear diff fully rebuilt with 4:88 gear ratio, Z36 powerstop heavy hauling brake kit, headlight relay mod, Fumoto drain valve AND STICKER

F350 2008 6.4 (sold)

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-20-2016, 12:54 AM
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I own a E350 as well so can understand the fuel bowl misery! On mine I simply left it there but replaced it with an aftermarket one that I installed along the frame... I'd still like to get rid of it though!!!

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