H/O Alternators - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up Upgrades and Aftermarket - 7.3L Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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H/O Alternators

Can anyone give advice, reccomend a good 200A + alternator for upgrade based on experience. I looked at the Mean Green and it got terrible reviews in both performance and customer service. I looked at Sinister Diesel but can find no reviews.

2002 F350 7.3L / 4R100 - 4WD CC DRW 8 Box, AIH Delete, Gauges- Pyro, Trans Temp, Boost, Fuel Pressure, TS-6 tuner, Zoodad Mod, Mishimoto 31 row Trans cooler, Mobil 1 ATF, Trans return line ATF filter, Hutch/Harpoon Mod, Air Lift Load Lifter 5000 rear air springs, Rancho 9000 shocks, Timbrens on the front.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 03:10 PM
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I put in one of these, works great.
Also bought their wiring and fuse kit.

https://www.nationsstarteralternator...8307ln-230.htm

2000 E350, I ordered it from the factory, new. Dual A/C, XLT Super Duty trim, 3.55 limited slip, trailer tow class IV package, dual alternators,
speed control/tilt wheel, HD4R100 installed @203k miles, B&M cast pan,
Dahl 100 fuel filter, deleted stock fuel bowl drain valve (leaker),
replaced turbo pedestal w/ non-EBPV, deleted AIH. Bilstein shocks. Jensen VX7021 Navigation receiver, Garmin 65W dash cam
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 04:53 PM
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https://store.alternatorparts.com/82...lternator.aspx


As tcnofh1 alluded to (above), if you're going to install a significantly larger-than-stock generator (and a 200-amp unit is almost double), then it would be highly advised to increase the size of the power conductor from the Gen to Bat, in order to handle the increased possible power output from the larger generator. Just because you have a 200-amp, Hi-output generator does not mean it'll necessarily ever put out the full 200 amps, but if it did for any length of time, it could easily destroy the stock power cable. Also, larger fusible link(s) and/or a Hi-amp fuse in the circuit would also be advised.



Any particular reason you need 200 amps of generator power?



~Al

Al in SoCal
AFE Intake; Garrett 38R; DieselSite Turbine Jacket
HPS Hi-Temp CAC Boots; Banks Big IC, Banks Engine Brake
External Oil cooler & Remote filter; Stealth 4-line Twin HPOP, Melling LPOP
Swamp's: 160cc/30% Injectors & HVHF IDM; DP-Tuner F5; Fluidamper Balancer
Custom Full Reg.-return Fuel System, Pre-& Post-pump filtration
Mishimoto Radiator & Exp. Tank; T444 Water Pump w/Filtration
Bellowed S/S Up-pipes; 4" Turbo-back Custom Exhaust into Twin Stacks
SouthBend D-D Clutch; ZF 6-spd w/CoreShifters Short-throw Stick
GearVendors O/U Drive

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Last edited by Calico5; 10-06-2018 at 05:05 PM.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcnofh1 View Post
I put in one of these, works great.
Also bought their wiring and fuse kit.

https://www.nationsstarteralternator...8307ln-230.htm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calico5 View Post
https://store.alternatorparts.com/82...lternator.aspx


As tcnofh1 alluded to (above), if you're going to install a significantly larger-than-stock generator (and a 200-amp unit is almost double), then it would be highly advised to increase the size of the power conductor from the Gen to Bat, in order to handle the increased possible power output from the larger generator. Just because you have a 200-amp, Hi-output generator does not mean it'll necessarily ever put out the full 200 amps, but if it did for any length of time, it could easily destroy the stock power cable. Also, larger fusible link(s) and/or a Hi-amp fuse in the circuit would also be advised.



Any particular reason you need 200 amps of generator power?



~Al

Thanks gentlemen, I found the Nations site- looks great and am glad they're a family owned business fairly close to me, also found a Company called Mechman.

Al- I bought the truck to primarily set up for camping, fishing, hunting. I plan on adding 15.5K winch, (Big power cable front and rear)isolated dual battery set up, and large inverter. Yes, I already planned on a large cable from alternator to battery and fusing everything. I had to increase the battery cable when I installed a 120A alternator on my 59 impala (which had the old style generator) as well as switch over to a relay and larger wire on my upgraded halogen headlights. The h/o alternators I’m seeing now under for superduty 7.3 at nations/mechman sites is what I had in mind with large amp output at idle. I think the smaller alternators I’ve seen would be useless ,as to get maximum output rpm’s I would have to be at 3000-4000. I’ve been driving my truck on highways and interstate intentionally keeping rpm’s under 2500, and when I’m camping driving to lake, woods, and around town I’ll never have it over 2000 rp. The nations alternator I just looked at is a 240A and rated 165 amps at idle and Mechman having one similar.

2002 F350 7.3L / 4R100 - 4WD CC DRW 8 Box, AIH Delete, Gauges- Pyro, Trans Temp, Boost, Fuel Pressure, TS-6 tuner, Zoodad Mod, Mishimoto 31 row Trans cooler, Mobil 1 ATF, Trans return line ATF filter, Hutch/Harpoon Mod, Air Lift Load Lifter 5000 rear air springs, Rancho 9000 shocks, Timbrens on the front.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 11:27 PM
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Thanks gentlemen, I found the Nations site- looks great and am glad they're a family owned business fairly close to me, also found a Company called Mechman.

Al- I bought the truck to primarily set up for camping, fishing, hunting. I plan on adding 15.5K winch, (Big power cable front and rear)isolated dual battery set up, and large inverter. Yes, I already planned on a large cable from alternator to battery and fusing everything. I had to increase the battery cable when I installed a 120A alternator on my 59 impala (which had the old style generator) as well as switch over to a relay and larger wire on my upgraded halogen headlights. The h/o alternators Im seeing now under for superduty 7.3 at nations/mechman sites is what I had in mind with large amp output at idle. I think the smaller alternators Ive seen would be useless ,as to get maximum output rpms I would have to be at 3000-4000. Ive been driving my truck on highways and interstate intentionally keeping rpms under 2500, and when Im camping driving to lake, woods, and around town Ill never have it over 2000 rp. The nations alternator I just looked at is a 240A and rated 165 amps at idle and Mechman having one similar.
Good deal! Sounds like you got it under control...

Al in SoCal
AFE Intake; Garrett 38R; DieselSite Turbine Jacket
HPS Hi-Temp CAC Boots; Banks Big IC, Banks Engine Brake
External Oil cooler & Remote filter; Stealth 4-line Twin HPOP, Melling LPOP
Swamp's: 160cc/30% Injectors & HVHF IDM; DP-Tuner F5; Fluidamper Balancer
Custom Full Reg.-return Fuel System, Pre-& Post-pump filtration
Mishimoto Radiator & Exp. Tank; T444 Water Pump w/Filtration
Bellowed S/S Up-pipes; 4" Turbo-back Custom Exhaust into Twin Stacks
SouthBend D-D Clutch; ZF 6-spd w/CoreShifters Short-throw Stick
GearVendors O/U Drive

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I hope so🤔 I’ve had a few guys ask why I beefed up the front end and am adding that big of a winch......... my Father and I share a farm and we both burn firewood. Dads getting too old and I’m feeling my age—We have some big steep, wooded hills (pasture in bottom) that are difficult to cut trees with chainsaw and keeping balanced. The plan is to cut limbs off and skid the trunks down and out in the open on level ground. Lots of black locust- pretty straight trunked.

2002 F350 7.3L / 4R100 - 4WD CC DRW 8 Box, AIH Delete, Gauges- Pyro, Trans Temp, Boost, Fuel Pressure, TS-6 tuner, Zoodad Mod, Mishimoto 31 row Trans cooler, Mobil 1 ATF, Trans return line ATF filter, Hutch/Harpoon Mod, Air Lift Load Lifter 5000 rear air springs, Rancho 9000 shocks, Timbrens on the front.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 11:54 PM
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I've had there 140 for a year now and no complaints, follow their directions on adding a large ground from the back of the case and clean all you existing ground (one mine they needed it...)

1999.5 F350 4X4 CC 7.3 LWB 2" SuperLift, AIS, Gooseneck Hitch, Zoodad, South Texas Outfitters Bumpers, Autoenginuity, 295/75/16 Toyo AT/II's American Eagle wheels, 4 gauge overhead

2002 F250 2X4 CC SWB (Wife's) Stock except for AIS filter and Gooseneck Hitch
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-12-2018, 11:42 AM
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Can someone recommend a good OEM replacement? Although my 2001 is fine, it's probably prudent to have one on hand.

2001 Lariat, F250, 7.3, 6-speed, 3:73, Ford AIS, MBRP 4" turbo back, ATS ported housing, 205 t-stat, Infinity DX w/DP Tuner 80hp tow, coolant filter, Hutched & Harpooned, EGT & Boost gauge. Fuel Mavericks with 285/18, 86k miles(Jan-2017) Bought brand new April 2001.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-12-2018, 11:47 AM
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Get the F18253MHD140 from https://alternatorparts.com/6g-serie...lternator.html

1999.5 F350 4X4 CC 7.3 LWB 2" SuperLift, AIS, Gooseneck Hitch, Zoodad, South Texas Outfitters Bumpers, Autoenginuity, 295/75/16 Toyo AT/II's American Eagle wheels, 4 gauge overhead

2002 F250 2X4 CC SWB (Wife's) Stock except for AIS filter and Gooseneck Hitch
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-12-2018, 12:04 PM
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Can someone recommend a good OEM replacement? Although my 2001 is fine, it's probably prudent to have one on hand.
If you are willing to change the front housing, I have a good OEM replacement.

I once had a few of them, I have one left.

2000 F250 Lariat CC SB 4x4 PSD Auto
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