Maybe if I ask about AIC in another way... - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe if I ask about AIC in another way...

Hello fellas...... Maybe I can get my AIC accomplished if I just ask some BASIC questions and make my posts/questions short. I'm putting together my own DIY AIC. (2003 E-350 7.3). I have a few potentiometers and resistors and relays, and have read quite a few threads about doing it. BUT...I'm still left with questions.(Unfortunately many schematics have the WRONG wire color reference. Others just don't show or tell enough details about what wires to cut and how to (direct them)...) Can I just cut and redirect (via. a relay) the outbound signal wire from the factory throttle pedal (potentiometer), and send it through (MY) potentiometers (of the values suggested in other threads), then, again via. the relay, send the signal (voltage) back through to the wire RETURNING to the PCM? ORRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrr Have I missed a very important thing....The fact that I (may) need to SUPPLY a full 5 volt power supply (lets say ,tapped ) off the same Inbound LINE currently supplying 5 volts from the PCM to the factory throttle switch, and (redirect) THAT 5 volt line through MY potentiometers and resistors to adjust the returning voltage (via. the relay), back to the PCM? Yes , I know about the IVS and have that figured out with a second relay for normal operations and AIC operations. It's this Damn TPS (and which of the three wires to/from it I need to either tap into OR cut and re direct. I believe I understand Potentiometers and also that by attaching just Two wires to one you are actually using it as a Rheostat. I think I get that the PCM is supplying 5 volts IN on one wire, Providing a return to ground on the second wire and the THIRD MIDDLE wire (also called the wiper) is the out bound (varied voltage) signal wire back to the PCM . Please also note that this is NOT wiring in a (pre made) aftermarket unit from Ford or anyone else. This is the DIY $10.oo worth of Radio Shack parts type of AIC project. Just need a little bit more help to git er' done..... PLEASE? Also should be mentioned....I am cutting or tapping into the wires at the throttle pedal location. NOT some (supposed) capped off existing factory wires that are hiding somewhere in a harness that it seems most of the Ford and aftermarket AIC's call for to locate and tap into. For two reasons. 1. This is DIY and 2. As mentioned before, it seems the referenced color codes of the wires are usually wrong. At least when working at the Factory throttle location, I KNOW what wire is a 5 volts supply IN and a (wiper) OUT signal to PCM as well as the ground. Also it isolated the IVS wires from the TPS wires. And it (might be ) easier to access... Just need some conversation/reply's about how what I have described might need to be wired or what wires need to be re directed and why. My concern is that if I am just cutting and re directing the existing outbound wire from the factory TPS, that when the throttle pedal is at IDLE, I don't know what the voltage coming OUT of that wire is going to be? 5 volts (or something close), OR 1 volt (or something close)? Seems if it is set up that when the pedal is at idle, the RETURN signal from the factory wire to the PCM is the 5 volts, I SHOULD be able to cut that RETURN wire and direct it through (MY) (potentiometers) and then (via the relay) Back to the PCM which will increase the IDLE. BUT if that same line is set up by the factory to have only 1 volt at IDLE as the return signal...Then my planned DIY/AIC will NOT work...... What say the guys that know how this system works have to say??????????? I already have two relays all soldered with pigtail wires and glued into a small work box... and a toggle switch with 12 volt power supply in the truck ready to flip and activate the relays... This damn thing is 95 % DONE!!!!! I just need to know the LAST TRICK to this project!!! So much for making the post short. DDT


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2003 E-350 7.3 Turbo. Last of an era. Almost completely STOCK 80,000 Easy Miles and Leaking Oil. AIH Delete. Resonator Box Delete, CCV Mod. Thank you Ford for making Quality Job Number One. NOT!

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Last edited by dieseldogtom; 04-27-2014 at 05:57 PM.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 09:25 PM
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I don't think you've offended anyone, but what you are trying to do is WAY over my head. I did figure out AIC is auxiliary idle control. I do know that since this a fly by wire system, the control will be through the PCM. DP Tuner has several high idle programs and the pto controller has an AIC function. How to build one yourself- I couldn't do that any more than I could build my own rocket ship.


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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 10:47 PM
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I see what you are trying to do and color codes and schematics are available.
To me that is extremely sketchy.Any time somebody says"I think I know how it works there is usually along with that the strong possibility that you have inadvertently overlooked something else like the grade,ratings,and suitability of you radio shack components in such a safety critical circuit that could turn a little human touch input into unleashing a monster on the otherwise unsuspecting motoring public or Oak Trees.
I strongly believe this is why the administrator messaged you immediately.Lay the $80 bucks down.
I hope I have not offended you but I know that you are not taking into consideration the issue I brought up.I love a good project for sure but..
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-30-2014, 11:54 AM
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I am a country dweller and have been all my life so I don't really see that so..All sorts of people do all different things so....I don't doubt at all that people have successfully performed this with RS components.I was only pointing out that certain devices need to be of quality and design that is safe for a safety crucial circuit,ie it's of an internal design that if there is an internal failure of that component it can't bleed juice into a circuit that sends the engine racing.Yes you can slip it into neutral sitting there thinking about it but if it happened to you unexpectedly or someone else who read this and was alarmed that slipping into neutral might not happen..Yes stalls can happen and everyone here knows that I am passionate about safety and how I feel about things like chasing down or keeping a black cps just to get number 8 perdels down two or three points.A guy a month so ago said"well Maryland if they were so dangerous why would Ford sell it to me?"A thread got started asking about members experiences and it just had to become painfully obvious how dangerous they are.I hope you understand my rational.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-01-2014, 12:00 AM
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Just do this $10/$15 AIC mod...


$10/$15 AIC Mod

2002 F350 XLT, CC, SB, 4x4, Auto, AIC, DiabloSport Predator, BD X-Monitor, Kenwood TM-V7A, Pioneer 7400MP3, Infinity 5.25" Components, Infinity 10" Sub in a Q-Logic Box, Heated Mirrors, Gentex/Mito Auto Dimming Mirror, Rear ID Bar, Uniden PC78 Elite CB, Clifford Matrix RS3 Alarm/Remote Start, Keypad Entry, Homemade "Tymar", custom, muffler back exhaust, 6 Whelen LED's in rear window, 6 Whelen Strobes in the Front, Rears still not installed...
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-01-2014, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Yes 96Cobra, That's just what I am planning to do. Maybe it's just me (I'm not too bright),
But even after reading and looking at the schematics, I am left with questions. Then when I look at my vehicle and the wire colors don't match up to what is shown, I have MORE questions. A
After thinking about this mod and looking over the wiring schematic I have for my vehicle, I have come up with my own idea/schematic to make this modification. Not saying it's necessarily better, Just that since I'm designed it I will know exactly what is happening with every wire I cut and redirect through my relay's when I throw the toggle switch.
The IVS schematic as far as I can tell is complete and correct.
The TPS schematic needs either some adjustments or corrections (possibly). I will update as I progress with this and if I ever actually splice the wires in and do it.
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2003 E-350 7.3 Turbo. Last of an era. Almost completely STOCK 80,000 Easy Miles and Leaking Oil. AIH Delete. Resonator Box Delete, CCV Mod. Thank you Ford for making Quality Job Number One. NOT!

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-01-2014, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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One thing I believe I have wrong and didn't bother to change yet is on the TPS circuit, I would change the 2K resistor to a 5K adjustable with a knob just like the 50K. Seems the idea is to be able to fine tune that one to your specific vehicles quirks for the base line IDLE and then lock it into position. If for some reason you need to adjust it again in the future at least you don't have to go sorting through and re soldering different value resistors till you find one that gets it right. Just roll the knob a little and re lock it (tape or put some sort of sticky stuff that will hold it in position).
Here is what I have built up based on my schematic so far. That's two relays and the adjustable 5K pot. in the plastic work box. The second pot. can be seen with the (temporary) wire terminal attachments. (to be soldered on later IF it works out). Because I already had the relays, wire, terminals, solder... The only thing it has cost me so far is the two pots. (about $7.oo and the work box $5.oo) So I'm in this for about $12.00 plus my time.
Plus the satisfaction to know that if anyone looking at my schematic and explanation of how to do this might be helped and find it easier to figure out because of my (very unprofessional photos) that would also be a benefit.
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2003 E-350 7.3 Turbo. Last of an era. Almost completely STOCK 80,000 Easy Miles and Leaking Oil. AIH Delete. Resonator Box Delete, CCV Mod. Thank you Ford for making Quality Job Number One. NOT!

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-01-2014, 08:15 PM
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I have the factory AIC on mine, and if you use it on a 2002 (my truck) & up, there's a glitch where the RPMs will sometimes jump to 2,800 RPMs, or something like that. You can get rid of that problem by adding a POT to the AIC. The paperwork that comes with the unit tells you what wires to use. Have you tried junkyards for a factory unit? It's just plug - n - play with it.

2002 F350 XLT, CC, SB, 4x4, Auto, AIC, DiabloSport Predator, BD X-Monitor, Kenwood TM-V7A, Pioneer 7400MP3, Infinity 5.25" Components, Infinity 10" Sub in a Q-Logic Box, Heated Mirrors, Gentex/Mito Auto Dimming Mirror, Rear ID Bar, Uniden PC78 Elite CB, Clifford Matrix RS3 Alarm/Remote Start, Keypad Entry, Homemade "Tymar", custom, muffler back exhaust, 6 Whelen LED's in rear window, 6 Whelen Strobes in the Front, Rears still not installed...
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-01-2014, 08:34 PM
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You will not unwind that mission.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-01-2014, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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Well Cobra, that just seems like all the more reason not to spend the big bucks on a factory unit.(even they don't quite work right from what you are saying). But no I have not looked for a wrecking yard Factory unit. I bet they still want plenty more than I have invested in this one AND I am sure a wrecking yard unit will NOT come with any paper work. But it's an idea at that should this project fail.

I'm still looking at the Official Ford chart showing the Ohms values and associated RPM's and voltages that cause those RPM,s (but that chart is dealing with a 2006 and I believe voltage through Factory AIC units). I hope others will continue to possible look at this thread and make constructive comments about what they see in the schematic and maybe even download to their computer and make adjustments to it if the feel it needs to be done in a different way. Maybe a better explination of the reasoning for the two pots. and how one is used to set the (base line RPM's) and which value pot. (the 50K or the 5K) should be R1 and R2 and weather the set up for each should start at the highest resistance output (lowest voltage output) and then enter the second pot. and in what resistance / voltage values should leave that one and travel back to the PCM for this thing to yeild the best results the first time. (instead of guessing and hooking it up all backwards and having to screw around with it). I bet one of the bright fellows on this site knows what I mean and could answer that or fix my schematic to be the best possible starting point.
Mostly I hope if some bright fellow see's this as a very wrong way to do it he will point it out so no one will duplicate it thinking it's a good plan. DDT


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2003 E-350 7.3 Turbo. Last of an era. Almost completely STOCK 80,000 Easy Miles and Leaking Oil. AIH Delete. Resonator Box Delete, CCV Mod. Thank you Ford for making Quality Job Number One. NOT!

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-03-2014, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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I have found one thing I should point out that differs from what I have written. Regarding the grounding of the relay coils to the emergency brake. I see there are 2 wires that run to the e-brake switch (which makes scenes and they do still appear to be ground wires.) BUT what I have discovered is that BOTH wires create a ground when the ignition is OFF. When the ignition is on, you need to locate the wire that only grounds when you apply the e-brake. This is also a good reason to wire the power supply to the toggle switch to an (ignition ON ONLY power supply) as is suggested in all the other AIC write ups. MY wire colors to the emergency brake switch are BLACK and GREEN/RED trace. It's the Green/Red trace that is an OPEN circuit when the ignition is on. Thereby creating the (safety) of not engaging the relays UNLESS you apply the emergency brake (at which time the ground circuit is (MADE) and allows the relays to work. SO...Connect your relay ground wire to the GREEN/RED trace from the emergency wire switch.


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2003 E-350 7.3 Turbo. Last of an era. Almost completely STOCK 80,000 Easy Miles and Leaking Oil. AIH Delete. Resonator Box Delete, CCV Mod. Thank you Ford for making Quality Job Number One. NOT!

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-03-2014, 10:47 PM
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Ok,Clint Eastwood had a Smith and Wesson Model 29.It is a .44 Magnun.Clint preferred shooting the milder .44 specials through it.or his character did per script.
My statement".you won't unwind that mission" meant that you are wound up and n a mission that is all and would wager that honestly you would agree.
As stated earlier you you know my feelings about safety.Maybe you will get the answers you desire and more surprises after it's running in gear.You seem to have a pretty strong grasp for the electronic thing and I respect that,I really do.I don't know how strong you are on the diesel/Pwr.train,the PCM and it's strategies that you are tapping into.Something in there can be your surprise .
Now I dropped back in for one clarication,two response to your question and three commenting on your surprise you foun and how I believe there are more surprises.
Again I respect the knowledge you do have and I hope your project turns out the way you want.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thought I would bring up this old thread of mine just to see if I would get any new information. I was looking at my schematic drawings for (my) DIY AIC. After having looked at and read what some others had written out or the electrical schematics (they) had provided for their DIY AIC's I have to admit I think I did a pretty good job of explaining & showing EXACTLY how it could be done. Even if your an idiot like me! Unfortunately I never got around to actually installing the thing. I did put it all together in a work box and attached all the wires to the relays leaving pigtails with identifying labels. (Then, Life happened & other priorities took precedent). Anyway, I started looking at my schematics again for the IVS & TPS modifications to be made with a couple of relays, a toggle switch & a couple of pots. (Not more than about $20 worth of parts). I also started looking back over this thread and one or two others I was posting/asking with people questions about if they saw anything fundamentally (wrong) with my set up... Also a few questions of deeper electronic details about what the PCM (expects) to see for voltages to make this project work correctly... It was/is interesting to look back and see how many advised me to just buy a OEM Ford AIC ($300 range) or the one offered by Dfuser (currently $79.00).
Even though I already did all the work putting together MY DIY DEVICE, at the time I was really interested in seeing my project through. Though quite a bit reluctant to cut into & redirect the wires on my throttle pedal and risk either it just not working or worst case, Burning up my PCM somehow. Without any further positive comments or encouragement and a few lingering questions that needed answers from someone more electronically sophisticated than myself, The project is left incomplete. With my renewed interest of installing an AIC in my vehicle I decided to take a look at the (close) to plug & play Dfuser option for $79.00.
Then I saw I could look at the instructions to install it. I downloaded the 2 page document. The first page is the instructions. Seems pretty straight forward. The color codes for the OEM wires (as I expected) didn't match what my vehicle has. That's probably not to big a deal. I am hopeful that I could get answers to that.
And that you do not have to cut any wires (just crimp/tap) into them is nice to. Then I decided to start to read the second page. You know, the legal stuff. I wonder how many people that buy these things really ever took the time to read that second page and understand just what it really says/means. Aside from the (typical) warnings that it's an aftermarket product and (they) can't be responsible for how (you) might install it or use it, And therefore cannot be held responsible for any liability/damage... I get that part. Most of the stuff we buy have warnings like that. But read closer and see that the (device) is also NOT warranted for as one line says... "respect to fitness, merchantability and consequential damages". That's kind of an important LEGAL definition. "fitness for a particular purpose" and "fitness for merchantibility" are legal terms and (usually) a product being sold IS REQUIRED to meet those legal definitions. If you are selling a hammer (for instance). It should be designed to meet it's expected use of being able to drive nails. It's "fit for the purpose" as well as "fit for merchantibility" (meaning, fit to be sold in the marketplace....
Sure I get that if you smash your finger with the hammer or use it in a way it was NOT designed for, that's not the manufactures fault and they should not be liable for damages in such situations.
Now, I am NOT saying Dfusers product does not work. I am NOT saying it does not work very good. I am wondering though why I would be better off spending $79.00 on a (ready made device) that the maker feels the need to include legal language (that if you read carefully), essentially means even if you wire it up correctly, It could still do any number of (damaging things) and (they) would not have any liability for!
The question becomes....Is their product really any better than mine? Is there design really better than mine. While I freely admit I DO like that it hooks up without cutting wires (only tapping into them) and that it very (possibly) IS a better design. I see there are also some things that make me wonder....It says...Here...I will just cut & paste it....
"Note: You must click the knob to the off position to be able to drive the vehicle. Also in most cases you also need to shut the engine off after using it and restart when the module is off for the ECM to unlock the pedal. On some vehicles with the engine running it requires that you press the accelerator pedal and then turn it on. This method should increases the idle as it should."
This all sounds a bit inconvenient. I'm pretty sure the FORD AIC don't require shutdowns. But then the FORD units are $300! Not $79.00
This all brings me back to MY DIY, AIC design. I would like once again to post up my schematics here and ask what hopefully some of you guys, that are way smatter than me, think as to if there is something (wrong) with a system like this and how you think it might interact with the PCM when operated (powered up).
Some of my SPECIFIC concerns are..... If you happened to roll one of the potentiometers all the way to one side of it's limits for either resistance or open circuit, Would it just likely make the engine stall out and maybe set a fault code OR is it possible or more likely to damage the PCM? I would think the advantage of having the two adjustable pots. is that you COULD fool around with them to get it so the one mounted through the dash will operate in the PROPER (RPM/Voltage) ranges between it's full deflections from counterclockwise (IDLE) to Clockwise (Slowly rolling up the RPM's). I choose those two pot. values (50K and 5K) based on research I have read from other DIY instructions for AIC's. There is also information (Charts) posted for resistance values applied against the 5 volt supply the PCM sends to the TPS and what RPM levels those various resistance's will result in. It seems the (system) works between .0875 & 4.4875 (feed back volts to the PCM) to produce an RPM range between IDLE of 680 rpm & a Maximum of 2400 rpm, using resistance values of between 43K ohms & 510 Ohms. So I guess another question would be if those potentiometers seem like they would (if wired correctly) result in output voltages in the range mentioned above? I'm pretty sure there is a fairly simple formula that can be applied to determine if a 5 volts supply and lets say 1.6K Ohms , would result in a voltage drop to 3.6875 (or should I say a voltage drop of 1.3125 volts)? This according to the "CHART" for a 2008 7.3 (things might be different for a 2003. But I believe they are all still working in those same basic ranges. Color codes of wires are likely different. And it might be a reversal of high RPM = low volts or Low RPM for High volts. Not sure if or why they would change it but there seems to be no end to changes made as the years pass. Anyone have any constructive criticism or productive information to add? DDT

EDIT: One thing I should change in the schematic.....I have the (wiper) as it's called, wire & internal to the TPS contact , making contact with what I would assume is the HIGHER voltage side of the coil in the TPS. (it's towards the LEFT close to the side the 5 volt FEED line enters the device). This would NOT be the IDLE position as the higher voltage going out to the PCM would be the signal for HIGHER RPM's. So that's just something I noticed and really is not all that significant. Just thought I would mention the mistake before anyone else did...LOL
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2003 E-350 7.3 Turbo. Last of an era. Almost completely STOCK 80,000 Easy Miles and Leaking Oil. AIH Delete. Resonator Box Delete, CCV Mod. Thank you Ford for making Quality Job Number One. NOT!

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the unit I made up but never installed. Sorry for the photo size. Have not figured out (or taken the time) to figure how or why some photos load a thumbnails & some do this. DDT
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2003 E-350 7.3 Turbo. Last of an era. Almost completely STOCK 80,000 Easy Miles and Leaking Oil. AIH Delete. Resonator Box Delete, CCV Mod. Thank you Ford for making Quality Job Number One. NOT!

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-21-2016, 04:41 PM
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Tom, if I were you, I would check the local wrecking yard for a backup computer should something go haywire! With that said, let's commence feeding the bears! Here's another thread that might help out since it is a van: Homebrew High Idle -
Homemade High Idle Control - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Good luck!

-Jason
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SOLD: 1997 F-350 7.3 PSD, 4X2, XLT, CC, LB, STD, 240K and counting
SOLD: 1996 F-350 7.3 PSD, 4X2, LB, AUTO, 175K and counting
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  Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties > '99 & up Upgrades and Aftermarket - 7.3L Engine

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