Updates on Upgrades - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up Upgrades and Aftermarket - 7.3L Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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I finally got tired of my turbo pedestal oil leak. When it coated my brand-new camper on our first trip out, I said enough was enough. But I got to thinking... With the turbo out for the o-ring replacement, I am 75% of the way to being able to change out my leaking up-pipes, so I figured I'll tackle that job too. And with everything out and open, it wouldn't take much to get the valve covers off for new glow-plugs because mine are absolutely shot. And figuring that my injectors are probably due for replacement (at 214ki miles), no better time than the present to swap them out. And finally... With the turbo sitting on the bench, I might as well throw a Wicked Wheel in there for giggles. The way I figure it, an $8-to-fix oil leak is costing me about $2500. I decided on using the Full Force Stage 1.5 (180/30) injectors.

I'm working in it alone. My truck is lifted 8" on 37" so its a huge PITA to get into the engine bay. I have a step stool that works well. I can reach everything except the far back-side of the motor, which is where I am doing most of the work. I'm 50 and I'm here to tell you that all-day wrenching sessions are a young man's game. I've allowed myself 3 weekend to do everything.


Day 1 (First weekend) was spent cleaning engine bay and removing the intake parts. I found this pretty straightforward, except for my aftermarket air cleaner. The little piddly screws holding the filter and tube on stripped the heads out. I had to remove the whole airbox and battery tray combo. One of the bolts for that was corroded from battery acid and rounded the head right off. I had to take the next size down socket and beat it on the rounded head and very gingerly used the impact to get it out. The intercooler tubes all came out without a fuss, but the damn clamp on the back side of the turbo fought me every step of the way. It had rusted/welded itself to the flanges and it took hours to get it to break loose, in the absolute worst area in the truck to get to. By the end of the day, wound up with the following pile of parts. The pedestal is exactly as it was lifted from the truck. You can see the oil sitting on the surface from the worn-out O-rings.





Day 2 (second weekend) The plan was to get the old up-pipes out and the new ones in. I will never do that job again, even if you held a gun to my head. Some of the bolts are nightmares to get to, and despite liberal applications of PB blaster over the prior few days, they would not budge resulting in stripped heads. In the end, I finally broke out the sawzall. Seeing how I was replacing all that anyway, I had no qualms cutting it apart. I wound up cutting the passenger side tube near the collector, and had to cut one bolt on the drivers side at the manifold. I bolted the new bellowed passenger side tube up to the new collector and installed it in the truck pretty easily. I left the manifold bolts loose till I get the turbo back on. Getting the drivers side tube in place by myself took years off my life. Getting it to stay in place long enough to get some bolts in it was impossible. I finally put one manifold bolt in with just one turn on the nut. This kept the tube from falling all the way to the ground for the 30th time, but getting the collector and the tube to line up so a bolt can be started was incredibly difficult. Of course, I'm laying on the engine with all kinds of crap digging into my chest, and having to everything by feel, but eventually I got it all to line up and got the bolts in and tight. What a total chore this was. I'll pay someone before I do it again.


Day 3 (second weekend) Injector day! I despaired at getting the passenger side valve cover off, but I had found that most of the hoses and crap blocking it are pretty easy to remove or move out of the way. I also thought the bolts would be impossible to get to, but I had a large selection of extensions and wobbles. If you take anything else away from my story, let it be this. An electric ratchet is worth its weight in gold when working on cars. I have this one from Milwaukee





It's not an impact (I have a couple of those too) but an electric ratchet. You have to break the bolts loose with your regular ratchet, but it saves hours when you are in tight and can only move your ratchet about a 30th of a turn at a time. The passenger side is by far the worst of the two to get to, but in short order I had both covers, the gaskets, and the wiring harnesses out of the way. Injector and glow-plug removal was fairly straight forward and soon enough I had them all sitting on the table ready to be boxed up for return.




I inspected the injector cups and everything seemed ok, or as far as the Mark-I eyeball can tell. The new injectors dropped right in their holes with a minimum of fuss, some very light tapping with a rubber mallet got them in far enough for the retainer to slip over the top bolt. Then tapping the bottom of the retainer with a drift set them fully in their bores. After I had them in, I slipped the valve covers and gaskets back on with just a couple bolts and turned the motor over 5 full revolutions with a breaker bar to clear the oil out of the cylinders. Drivers side rear must have been on exhaust stroke because I got a nice stream of oil out of the still-loose up-pipe to manifold connection. Its gonna smoke like a freight train on start up. I found out that owning a camper with a couple big-ass awnings is a plus. I ran both awnings out to shade my work space, and turned the radio on for some tunes. This job really sucked, but at least I didn't have the sun beating down on my bald-ass head all day.





I put the glow plugs in and then set on getting the harnesses installed. Getting the new harnesses in was a very finicky operation. There is very little slack in the wires (naturally) and no room for your fingers. But eventually I got them all in place, hooked up and triple-checked to make sure that nothing is pinched in the gaskets or impacted by the moving parts. Finally, I put on the valve covers. Each cover had one damn screw that fought me tooth and nail. Make sure you have ALL the bolts started by hand before you snug anything up. It took literal hours to get the passenger side bolted up. with dropping the bolts about a hundred times and absolutely zero room to work. Last job of the day was to remove my DP-Tuner chip so I can get it sent off to be reprogrammed for the single-shot injectors. I figure I got about 4-5 hours left next weekend to get the turbo and all that back on. Stay tuned sports fans. I'll let you know how everything turns out.

Tim
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02 Excursion -"The Big Unit"
7.3 Powerstroke, 8" lift, 37" Toyo Open Countrys
4"MBRP, DPTuner & BTS Equipped.
Full Force Stage 1.5 180/30 Injectors
Wicked Wheel II

Yup. It'll do...
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Last edited by Cowracer; 06-19-2017 at 10:52 AM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-21-2017, 08:33 PM
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You will love the new power.

I will say this on any tune over 60 daily your egts will get hot quick.

180/30's really need a turbo upgrade to use all the fuel
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-22-2017, 11:20 AM
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Great report!! After the 10th time the valve cover bolts will be a breeze!! I usually run it with the valve cover off to make sure all the injectors are pumping oil out before I bolt down the cave cover. I have replaced the turbo up pipe donuts by myself also and will agree it is a major pain!! One thing I did the last time I pulled a turbo was to lay a clean old rug over the radiator and front of the engine. It was a lot easier on my belly/ribs.
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Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-22-2017, 11:40 AM
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Making me jealous Cowracer, I need to do all the same stuff to my truck! Good write up, I look forward to an update.

1997 F250 Heavy Duty 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 Crew Cab, SRW, Automatic E40D
BTS Valve Body
Tru-Cool Trans Cooler
4" Turbo Back Diamond Eye Stainless Exhaust
Tymar Air Intake
TS Six Position Chip (stock,High Idle, +50, +75, +100, +120)
Tymar HPX line in hand but no installed yet
285/75r16 BFG All-Terrain KO2
ARE LSII Custom Color Tonneau bed cover
Color match Rhino spray in bed liner
------------------------------------------
Better To Be Tried By 12 Than Carried By 6
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-27-2017, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Finally got to finish all the work on the truck. Installing the clamp on the back of the turbo was probably the single hardest automotive thing I have ever done,and I had to change a starter on a twin-cam Saturn once (Step 1, remove engine). As much as I tried, I could not squeeze the clamp together enough to get the t-bolt into its slot. I had the collector perfectly mated to the turbo inlet, but I could not get that damn clamp on. I took the nut off, hoping that I could have the t-bolt in the slot and feed enough of the bolt through that 'sleeve' so I could start the nut. No dice. The best I could do was get the bolt threads flush with the end of the sleeve. And that was using a worm clamp to try to pull everything together. Did I mention that there is ZERO room to work and you can only get one hand at a time in there and you can't see anything, so its all by feel?

After literally hours of trying, I reached the end of my patience and sanity. All I needed was an extra 1/8th of an inch. Just enough to start the nut on the clamp bolt. Desperate times call for desperate measures. I pulled the turbo back off, and took off the clamp. There is a ferrule over the sleeve and that came off easy with some pliers. I then ground about 1/4 inch off the sleeve and replaced the ferrule. The t-bolt is threaded damn near all the way to the end, so I'm not worried about running out of threads, or not being able to get it clamped down tight enough. I have no idea why they made the sleeve on that clamp is so long. The one on the downpipe clamp is nowhere near as long. Makes no sense. Anyway, that did the trick. That extra little was enough to start the nut and then it was quick work to finish it up. I replaced the intake spider, intercooler pipes (after removing the insulation from the turbo-to-intercooler one), air filter and battery box. Last job of the day was fully tightening up the manifold to up-pipe bolts, and surprisingly, they didn't give me any grief at all. Zip, zip and it was done. I had to wait an extra day to get the chip back from Jody. That came in last night, and it didn't take long to get it installed.

As expected, it took a lot of cranking to get it to come to life. 4 sessions of 15-20 seconds each with 5-10 minutes between for the starter to cool down. When it finally hit, it was alarmingly rough. It sounded like each piston came online one at a time. Nasty surging, romping, shaking like a freezing wet dog, and you should have seen the smoke! I was waiting on the neighbors to come out *****ing about it. After maybe 2-3 minutes, it settled down, but it still felt like there was a miss. I let it idle for while, and took it out up the road. At first, I thought I made a terrible mistake. Very little to no power, and Vesuvius levels of smoke. Local gas station is a mile away, and by the time I got there, it felt 'better' but not right. I decided to take it on a longer run, and I swung by the house to close the garage door. By the time I got back to the house, it felt like a new truck. I guess it just needed some time to get everything pumped up and run in. As I left the house again, I gave her a touch of the whip, and promptly blew the turbo-to-intercooler pipe boot off. I returned home and replaced the boot, making sure I had it right and tight. After I was done, it seemed like it took an awful long cranking time to restart the engine. I'm hoping that is just something that will get better as parts run in. We hit the road and I decided to let it breathe.

Mercy, does this thing has some ass to it now! The combo of the wicked wheel and removing the insulation off the IC pipe made for a nice turbo whistle, but not objectionable. No more tick-tick-tick from my defective up-pipes, and the boost came up quicker and higher than I have seen in a long time. Dunno if I can credit the WW or the new up-pipes, but I don't care. I like it. And best of all, NO MORE OIL DRIPS! That damned turbo pedestal oil leak was what started this whole thing in the first place. I would have been highly pissed if I still had the leak.

As expected with the single-shots, the engine has a different sound now. Not as quiet as it was before, but a different 'tone' too. Kinda rattle-ly and snarly. I hesitate to say "more like a 12v Cummins" but that is pretty much what it sounds like. I like it. Seat of the pants testing, the stock tune felt almost as powerful as the 80-horse tune did before. The 80-horse tune is ungodly. And the 160 'race' tune. Well... Lets just say that I'm not gonna be using that very much. Oh, its fast, but the EGT's are damn near uncontrollable. Maybe next year I will think about upgrading the turbo. But not right now.

I drove it to work today to get some easy miles on it before I use it to tow this weekend. All in all, I'm more than happy with the upgrades. Sometimes, you change something and you sit there and tell yourself you feel a difference, but secretly you wonder if you really do. We have all been there. But I can tell you first hand, that my truck now feels like I added another bank of cylinders. As far as I am concerned, it was time and money well spent.

Tim

02 Excursion -"The Big Unit"
7.3 Powerstroke, 8" lift, 37" Toyo Open Countrys
4"MBRP, DPTuner & BTS Equipped.
Full Force Stage 1.5 180/30 Injectors
Wicked Wheel II

Yup. It'll do...
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-27-2017, 10:16 AM
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Ya the first couple starts after a swap are always a little longer and rough.

Glad it's all working well!

That back clamp is fun sometimes, especially the first time
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-27-2017, 10:48 PM
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Great write up Tim, glad your as happy as a pig in mud now the job is done and you'll forget about how difficult that darn turbo clamp was to fit in a few days. haha

It's nice to feel the real power that these motors have with a few bolt on products.

I also removed the foil from the IC pipe but after a few thousand miles and the extra turbo whine i have refitted the IC pipe with insulation, you will make the choice too maybe.


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03 F250 4x4 CC 7.3ltr 4R100HD rebuilt, 160,000 Klms
GTP38R , Turbo-master , IH Bellowed up pipes, RiffRaff CAC boot kit, AIH delete, .
4" Turbo back exhaust ,Banks power elbow, LPG (Gas over diesel) DP F6 tuner, 40hp tow, 60hp tow, 80hp tow, 60hp, 80hp, 120hp race, Decel, 1200 RPM.
RiffRaff 6637 intake ,pre filter, Snorkle
Custom made trans cooler with twin thermo fans ,water to oil cooler
Scangauge 11,AutoMeter Trans temp, pyro ,Water/Oil temp, Fuel Pressure, Boost.
Longrange 120 ltr fuel tank and transfer pump, 15,000 lb winch, Warn winch bar, Lightforce HID spot lights, HID headlights, Black Widow Drawer System, Snugtop Canopy with gull windows, Fr & Rr ARB Diff locks, Hornblaster Train horns, Post fuel pump filter, RiffRaff FRx and HPx , Bilsteins x4, Onboard compressor , Air tank and water traps, Billet door handles, Alpine headset, Alpine overhead DVD player, Rockford Fosgate sub, Alpine amp and CD changer.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-30-2018, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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I know this thread is a year old, but it seems I always wind up doing upgrades in June or July (I'm a sucker for heat exhaustion)

So after living with the stock turbo and the new injectors for a year, I realize that I really ought to upgrade the turbo, so after much research, I pop for a KC Turbo 38r. Very nice looking unit. Installation went fairly well. No major hiccups or struggle (other than the rear band clamp, but I knew that was gonna be a pain before I even started). I sat on the fence about which AR to get. The KC site lists the .84 good from stock to 180cc injectors, and the 1.0 from 180 to 250. Seeing how I have 180 injectors now, I really didn't know which one to get. So, being a man, I decided bigger MUST be better. Not sure if I made a mistake on that one or not. The new turbo seems to 'light off' at a higher RPM than the old stocker. Now, it seems I have to be above 2000 rpm to get any appreciable boost. Even driven sedately, it'll blow a bit of black smoke til the turbo joins the party. But man, when that sucker lights, its like letting a mad dog off the chain. It's unreal how it runs. I just wonder if I should have popped for the .84 AR turbo, thinking it might 'light off' quicker.

As I stated above, my truck rolls on 37's. This is MURDER on my gearing, giving me an effective gear ratio of about 3.21. This puts my RPM's at about 1600 at 65-70 when towing my roughly 9500 pound camper, and that is not enough engine rpm to keep even the old turbo 'on the boost'. I tried towing in 3rd instead of OD once (about 2500 RPM), but i'm not sure what effect that will have on the trans, long-term wise... I have not towed the camper yet with the new turbo. I was forever fighting high EGT's before while towing it, and I hope that maybe boost will be a bit higher (and lower EGT's) when I do. Going from STL to Elkhart Indiana in a couple weeks. We'll find out then. I have towed my Side-by-side a few times with it, and it seems to be slightly better EGT-wise. But I won't be sure till I put the heavy load on it.

As it is, this is the last set of 37's ever going on it. It'll be due for new skins probably next spring, and I'm drop it down to a 3.5 in lift and either 33s or 35s depending on how it does on the next trip. And I gotta be honest, as cool as it looks, it's getting hard for my 51 year old knees to live with it. I'm half tempted to take it back to stock all the way around and make a bit of a sleeper out of it.

But anyway, I am pretty darn impressed with how the truck runs now. Despite the more noticeable 'turbo lag', it is an oil fired rocketship, capable of some astonishing acceleration for an 8000 pound truck. Some times its even hard to keep it below the speed limit.

Tim

02 Excursion -"The Big Unit"
7.3 Powerstroke, 8" lift, 37" Toyo Open Countrys
4"MBRP, DPTuner & BTS Equipped.
Full Force Stage 1.5 180/30 Injectors
Wicked Wheel II

Yup. It'll do...
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Last edited by Cowracer; 07-30-2018 at 04:38 PM.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 12:52 PM
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I would definitely pop on the .84 housing.

The big tires plus bigger turbine housing are making it laggy.

Also, leave the red line unhooked to the wastegate.

99.5 f250 7.3 4x4- 277k FF 160/30, Hydra w/SDK Tunes, S&B CAI, 4" Exhaust, Van turbo w/Riffraff Billet wheel, Autometer Gauges, Built Trans, Trucool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.


Dads-2000 f250 7.3 4x4- 118k K&N Intake w/Amsoil Filter, 4" Exhaust, Autometer Gauges, Superchip 1705 (Tow Safe), BD Billet Wheel, TruCool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 07:08 PM
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When I pull injectors I use a suction (hand or power) to suck the fuel/oil out of the cylinders. I also pull the glow plugs and leave them out until injectors are in. Just lay the valve covers over the top of the injectors (main harness unplugged) and turn it over with starter. I will blow any left over fluid out the glow plug hole. Take covers off and put glow plugs in, connect the harness, and start truck. Check to see all the injectors are spitting oil and you are good to go.
DENNY

Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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