Upgrading injectors and what else? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up Upgrades and Aftermarket - 7.3L Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-13-2018, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Upgrading injectors and what else?

So I’ve got a 2000 7.3 f250 6 speed and I’m looking at a set of 238/100 maybe 200% full force injectors to do sometime in the next few months. Is there anything else I should upgrade while I’m in there? I’ll probably do valve springs at the same time. But what about pushrods? Clutch? I’ve got a SB 400 hp in there now, but do I need any other supporting upgrades? Thanks for any advice!
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-14-2018, 10:50 AM
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You need a lot of upgrades.

Gauges, intake, exhaust then...

Turbo, better clutch, head studs, fuel system (hutch mod, better pump, better fuel feed to the heads)
Valve springs aren’t a bad idea
And a chip with email capability so you don’t have to sent it in for Re-burns
Php hydra is 325. + custom tunes
The others email updatedable chips are over twice the price

Judging by your current mods your better off with 160/30’s
They work well with stock engine components.

I would still recommend a turbo upgrade though.

99.5 f250 7.3 4x4- 277k FF 160/30, Hydra w/SDK Tunes, S&B CAI, 4" Exhaust, Van turbo w/Riffraff Billet wheel, Autometer Gauges, Built Trans, Trucool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.


Dads-2000 f250 7.3 4x4- 118k K&N Intake w/Amsoil Filter, 4" Exhaust, Autometer Gauges, Superchip 1705 (Tow Safe), BD Billet Wheel, TruCool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-14-2018, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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Alright I’ll try to cover everything. I’ve got afe intake, van turbo (which I’ll probably upgrade to a kc366 in the next 6 months or so), turbo back 4” straight pipe, arp head studs, can’t say about the hutch mod. Most of these were done before I got the truck and I’ve never dropped the tank. I’m sure there’s a couple things I’m forgetting. Oh, I was told it has the php chip but the tunes sound more like a typical ts (stock, hi idle, 50,75, 100, 140).
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-16-2018, 10:49 AM
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Have you checked for ARP studs or is that what they told you?

I would go T4 unless you already have bellowed up pipes, ebpv delete pedestal and outlet.

Because the kc turbo plus quality garret parts is going to run you 2k!

A Bw s366 with a T4 kit will run like 2200.

And it will Handle more abuse, cheap to rebuild compared to the KC, and drop egts several hundred degrees compared to the KC

Honestly 160/30’s will work well with everything you have currently and make a solid 400hp.

Ask yourself if the extra 4-5k is worth it for 100 more horsepower

I currently have the van turbo with billet wheel and 160/30’s. It is a very good combo

99.5 f250 7.3 4x4- 277k FF 160/30, Hydra w/SDK Tunes, S&B CAI, 4" Exhaust, Van turbo w/Riffraff Billet wheel, Autometer Gauges, Built Trans, Trucool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.


Dads-2000 f250 7.3 4x4- 118k K&N Intake w/Amsoil Filter, 4" Exhaust, Autometer Gauges, Superchip 1705 (Tow Safe), BD Billet Wheel, TruCool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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I’m not really certain about what turbo I’m getting yet, but the KC 366 is about $1,400. I’m thinking about going with the stage 2 180/100. But with those, would I need to upgrade my stock hpop? I’m looking for a little bigger than 160/30.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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And I do have ARP headstuds. And a few months ago I installed some $100 amazon bellowed up pipes. And I’ve got ebpv delete pedestal.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 07:26 PM
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Stage 2 a codes aren’t very good.

You will need a adrenaline 20* pump to even somewhat keep up.

180/100’s only make 25-30hp more than 160/30’s

160/30’s make a solid 400hp with all the support mods (hpop/turbo)

You could do a 200/30 hybrid as well. They use less oil

99.5 f250 7.3 4x4- 277k FF 160/30, Hydra w/SDK Tunes, S&B CAI, 4" Exhaust, Van turbo w/Riffraff Billet wheel, Autometer Gauges, Built Trans, Trucool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.


Dads-2000 f250 7.3 4x4- 118k K&N Intake w/Amsoil Filter, 4" Exhaust, Autometer Gauges, Superchip 1705 (Tow Safe), BD Billet Wheel, TruCool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-22-2018, 10:24 PM
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what are your goals for power and what will your use be? I will soon be posting my own thread for opinions on a special build I am working on.

You already have more than you need for what you are talking about. You have a forged rod (or should have depending on build date) motor; so you could go all out if you wanted. My dually has pmr's so I am limited but I am currently running what is in my sig. I haven't changed head studs or anything to the block. Been running just fine. I drive like an idiot at times, tow heavy, etc. I should be pushing around 500-550hp to the wheel but truck is tuned to not kill my pmr's too, so I am not running to its full potential.


First off, I see no mention of guages and that is one of the first things you should have

you will definitely need a higher hp clutch as has been mentioned

Last time i was here (several yrs ago) I was going to try PIS injectors as many were stating better feedback compared to full force, but IDK. I have full force injectors and they can't be tuned right for some reason.

you will need an upgraded HPOP of some sort depending on goals.

Fuel system upgrades are worth it in my opinion, hate the factory setup.

As for your chip, those are the default settings but PHP tunes are way better than stock TS. those are the typical setting for all tuners. If/when you get new injectors/turbo you will need custom tunes from tuner of your choice.

otherwise, once you do gauges, turbo, injectors, and HPOP; looks like you are set. Oh, and a stronger clutch. everything else will be ease of mind. I have spent several thousands of dollars and time on items that are not necessary.

03 F350 7.3L Auto CC LB Dually 410's (LS Rear)

PHP/Beans tuned/250/100 FF inj's, BTS Tranny, Strictly Diesel complete fuel system with RR & FB delete, Pius LASB from Irate, Swamps HVHF IDM.
Autometer Nexus Guages, 4"MBRP, DieselSite Coolant filtration system/billet housing/HP X-Over line. Baldwin PA2818(6637) RR Boots/CBillet Plenums, ('06) 26 row Tranny & PS Cooler, LarryB's Genuine Denso Starter
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-22-2018, 11:06 PM
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PIS was sold and you will be hard pressed to find anyone who sells their injector now.

Quality has gone way down.

99.5 f250 7.3 4x4- 277k FF 160/30, Hydra w/SDK Tunes, S&B CAI, 4" Exhaust, Van turbo w/Riffraff Billet wheel, Autometer Gauges, Built Trans, Trucool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.


Dads-2000 f250 7.3 4x4- 118k K&N Intake w/Amsoil Filter, 4" Exhaust, Autometer Gauges, Superchip 1705 (Tow Safe), BD Billet Wheel, TruCool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-23-2018, 03:57 AM
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Thanks for the info. That's a bummer, I heard they made great injectors.

so what are the safe choices for injectors? FullForce, Swamps... I think I have seen another newer brand called unlimited or something like that. Being PIS went under/sold out, I think i would be leary of running another newer brand. Full Force might still be the best option? I think I have always heard good things about swamps as well, but from memory they either didn't offer as many options or were more expensive when I got my 250/100's several years ago. plus i got my injectors in a package deal through Jake at Irate Diesel.

03 F350 7.3L Auto CC LB Dually 410's (LS Rear)

PHP/Beans tuned/250/100 FF inj's, BTS Tranny, Strictly Diesel complete fuel system with RR & FB delete, Pius LASB from Irate, Swamps HVHF IDM.
Autometer Nexus Guages, 4"MBRP, DieselSite Coolant filtration system/billet housing/HP X-Over line. Baldwin PA2818(6637) RR Boots/CBillet Plenums, ('06) 26 row Tranny & PS Cooler, LarryB's Genuine Denso Starter
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-23-2018, 11:29 PM
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The two most sold injectors are unlimited and full force.

Swamps is overpriced and their warranty isn’t as good as they claim.

I wouldn’t hesitate to run unlimited or full force. ( I have full force 160/30’s)

It is a bummer about PIS. They were great when Tim was the owner

99.5 f250 7.3 4x4- 277k FF 160/30, Hydra w/SDK Tunes, S&B CAI, 4" Exhaust, Van turbo w/Riffraff Billet wheel, Autometer Gauges, Built Trans, Trucool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.


Dads-2000 f250 7.3 4x4- 118k K&N Intake w/Amsoil Filter, 4" Exhaust, Autometer Gauges, Superchip 1705 (Tow Safe), BD Billet Wheel, TruCool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 05:06 PM
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I second Full force for injectors I have a set of the 180/30 singles I had them two plus years and no issues with them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2000 F250 7.3 4inc exhaust, Ts 6 pos chip witch custom tunes, Built 4R100 w billet triple disc converter, 6.0 trans cooler and deep tans pan, CCV mod, 4 gauge pod A piller,Boost,Trans temp,EGT,fuel pressure AFE intake,RIFFRAFF Frx fuel Rail dead head fix black spring,High Flow banjo bolts,High Flow CVD Fitting, Harpoon mod,Diesel site adrenaline HPOP,AIH Plug,Plenum Reinforcing Inserts. FULL FORCE DIESEL STAGE 1.5 single shot injectors, Garrett powermax GTP38R and blank pedestal, RIFFRAFF Intercooler CAC Boots with complete clamp kit , scanegauge 2
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-02-2018, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
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I have LPO, fuel, egt, and boost gauges. I’ve heard that the van turbo is fine for 180 injectors because it has the larger A/R housing, but it is on the future todo list.

I’ve also heard that the nbs 7.3s are hit and miss with the forged rods, but there’s a plug you can pull to check?

As for the clutch, if I’m easy on the tunes, I shouldn’t get over the 400hp limit right? At least on the stock tune.

My goal is around the 500hp mark. I’m just starting to wonder if I should get my other upgrades in order first (t500 hpop, higher hp clutch possibly pushrods). If I decide to go up with my hp from there, I’ll probably just go straight to a dual hpop system.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-02-2018, 08:18 PM
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500hp is going to cost a lot more.

400hp can be achieved with 160/30’s and a van turbo

That’s what I’m running now.

I wouldn’t do over 450hp on PMR’s

I would only run Gearhead or php with Pmr’s and larger injectors.

Some others call for too much icp and timing and that leads to rods out the block.

99.5 f250 7.3 4x4- 277k FF 160/30, Hydra w/SDK Tunes, S&B CAI, 4" Exhaust, Van turbo w/Riffraff Billet wheel, Autometer Gauges, Built Trans, Trucool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.


Dads-2000 f250 7.3 4x4- 118k K&N Intake w/Amsoil Filter, 4" Exhaust, Autometer Gauges, Superchip 1705 (Tow Safe), BD Billet Wheel, TruCool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-02-2018, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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I was told I have the php by the previous owner, but I haven’t actually seen the chip itself. Will it say on the chip who the manufacturer is?

As for the rods, I’m not trying to push 500 on PMRs. On that note, do you know what the manufactur date is for when they stopped putting forged rods in?
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