2000 F250 7.3L Shift Lever Issues - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
1999-2007 General Questions General questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.

 1Likes
  • 1 Post By Catch-All
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Catch-All's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 28
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Unhappy 2000 F250 7.3L Shift Lever Issues

My truck, affectionately named The Behemoth by my fiancee', has been having a few issues lately with the shift lever that is causing starting and shifting issues.
1) If I don't push the shift lever all the way counterclockwise to the left, and I go to crank the ignition, I'll get maybe half a second of cranking and then the starter motor stops cold. I installed a new starter motor in 2014 and I make sure to press down on the brake pedal while cranking, so those shouldn't be the cause of my problems.
2) If I move the shift lever to "R", often nothing happens unless I jiggle the shift lever counterclockwise so that it's to the left-most place in the "R" position. Only then will I feel the transmission go into reverse and I can back up.
3) The same thing happens moving the Shift Lever into "D" Drive but not as noticeably as putting it into "R" Reverse.
4) Whilst in "D" Drive, it isn't doesn't seem to be having any up-shifting or down-shifting problems.


My ancient beat-up Haynes Manual seems to have it narrowed down to the following:
a) Shift Interlock System
b) TR Sensor (Transmission Range Sensor)
c) Shift Indicator Cable
d) Shift Cable


Any suggestions on where to start? If I need to take it to a repair shop, I want to diagnose the problem as best as possible to eliminate any "reconnaissance by fire" replace, replace, replace replacement of parts til they finally get it right by process of elimination.


As always, thanks a million for y'alls help. It's saved me tons of money over the years and given me great satisfaction at being able to do a lot of expensive repairs myself.


Thanks,
Mark/ Catch-All

2000 F-250 Lariat crew-cab. Bought used in early 2007 at 140k miles, now it's a little over 200k. Basic chip job via SuperTuner at Towing setting. Air Raid air filter. DieselSite thermostat and new housing. Dents repaired and Repainted white by MAACO. Aftermarket LED lights for pickup bed brake light and tail lights. Aftermarket headlights - CCFL halo lights. New fuel/water sep drain valve. New starter motor. New Glow Plug Relay. New alternator & serp belt. New tires all around (NEVER buy Uniroyal or Michelin - they're all junk and they don't honor their warranty). Repaired transmission housing & brake lines that WalMart dinged up during an oil & filter change. Truxedo roll-up tonneau cover. New upper & lower ball joints at 206k miles. New steering box. New tailgate. NEXT PROJECTS: DIY truckbed rust removal & heavy-duty coating, de-water fuel tank.
Catch-All is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-22-2017, 01:27 AM
Lifetime Supporting Member
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
Googs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 3,751
My Photos: (0)
Garage
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
This is not the video that i was looking for but it's the same on our f-350's -250''s so check the torx screws on the shift lever bracket under the dash near the steering column, hope this fixes your problem.








To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
03 F250 4x4 CC 7.3ltr 4R100HD rebuilt, 160,000 Klms
GTP38R , Turbo-master , IH Bellowed up pipes, RiffRaff CAC boot kit, AIH delete, .
4" Turbo back exhaust ,Banks power elbow, LPG (Gas over diesel) DP F6 tuner, 40hp tow, 60hp tow, 80hp tow, 60hp, 80hp, 120hp race, Decel, 1200 RPM.
RiffRaff 6637 intake ,pre filter, Snorkle
Custom made trans cooler with twin thermo fans ,water to oil cooler
Scangauge 11,AutoMeter Trans temp, pyro ,Water/Oil temp, Fuel Pressure, Boost.
Longrange 120 ltr fuel tank and transfer pump, 15,000 lb winch, Warn winch bar, Lightforce HID spot lights, HID headlights, Black Widow Drawer System, Snugtop Canopy with gull windows, Fr & Rr ARB Diff locks, Hornblaster Train horns, Post fuel pump filter, RiffRaff FRx and HPx , Bilsteins x4, Onboard compressor , Air tank and water traps, Billet door handles, Alpine headset, Alpine overhead DVD player, Rockford Fosgate sub, Alpine amp and CD changer.
Googs is offline  
post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Catch-All's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 28
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Googs View Post
This is not the video that i was looking for but it's the same on our f-350's -250''s so check the torx screws on the shift lever bracket under the dash near the steering column, hope this fixes your problem.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKqiDy_Po2M
Ding Ding Ding! Googs wins the Internets!

Thank You so much for the help, Googs! The video you linked did the trick. It's such a quick and easy fix too! You just saved me at least a $150 diagnose & repair bill. PM me your mailing address and I'll be happy to send you a Thank You card.

This site is great. It's full of knowledgable people helping out their fellow Truck owners, including dumbasses like me

Next Project: de-water the fuel tank. I'll start a separate thread for that one....

Thanks,
Mark/ Catch-All
ArcticDriver likes this.

2000 F-250 Lariat crew-cab. Bought used in early 2007 at 140k miles, now it's a little over 200k. Basic chip job via SuperTuner at Towing setting. Air Raid air filter. DieselSite thermostat and new housing. Dents repaired and Repainted white by MAACO. Aftermarket LED lights for pickup bed brake light and tail lights. Aftermarket headlights - CCFL halo lights. New fuel/water sep drain valve. New starter motor. New Glow Plug Relay. New alternator & serp belt. New tires all around (NEVER buy Uniroyal or Michelin - they're all junk and they don't honor their warranty). Repaired transmission housing & brake lines that WalMart dinged up during an oil & filter change. Truxedo roll-up tonneau cover. New upper & lower ball joints at 206k miles. New steering box. New tailgate. NEXT PROJECTS: DIY truckbed rust removal & heavy-duty coating, de-water fuel tank.
Catch-All is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 11:07 AM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
Mark Kovalsky's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: SE Florida, USA
Posts: 11,582
My Photos: (6)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Catch-All View Post
I make sure to press down on the brake pedal while cranking,
I see that you already have the answer, but I have to ask, why do you press the brake pedal while cranking? I've never heard of that. It won't hurt anything, but why do you do it?

Mark
Former
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Automatic Transmission Engineer 1988-2007


“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.” ― Neil deGrasse Tyson
Mark Kovalsky is offline  
post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Catch-All's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 28
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky View Post
I see that you already have the answer, but I have to ask, why do you press the brake pedal while cranking? I've never heard of that. It won't hurt anything, but why do you do it?
I reckon it's a habit from driving a stick for decades. I never trusted the handbrake on my Toyota POS and so I'd put my foot on the brake and crank the engine.

2000 F-250 Lariat crew-cab. Bought used in early 2007 at 140k miles, now it's a little over 200k. Basic chip job via SuperTuner at Towing setting. Air Raid air filter. DieselSite thermostat and new housing. Dents repaired and Repainted white by MAACO. Aftermarket LED lights for pickup bed brake light and tail lights. Aftermarket headlights - CCFL halo lights. New fuel/water sep drain valve. New starter motor. New Glow Plug Relay. New alternator & serp belt. New tires all around (NEVER buy Uniroyal or Michelin - they're all junk and they don't honor their warranty). Repaired transmission housing & brake lines that WalMart dinged up during an oil & filter change. Truxedo roll-up tonneau cover. New upper & lower ball joints at 206k miles. New steering box. New tailgate. NEXT PROJECTS: DIY truckbed rust removal & heavy-duty coating, de-water fuel tank.
Catch-All is offline  
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 06:04 PM
Senior Member
 
Phil G.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,445
My Photos: (2)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
With all the stupid do-dads out there on new vehicles, I'll bet there are some new cars out there that require the foot on the brake for the starter to crank... Heck, it wasn't that many years if I recall that you could pull the shift lever out of part without your foot on the brake.

2007 F350 SRW 6.0L Auto, 3.73LS, 172"WB 4x4. Viper Alarm/RS, WD pillar Guages,AutoEnginuity, 100gal polished alum fuel tank.
All Sold: 99.5, early03 , 2004 - all were 172" wb 4x4 lariat's.

My Worklog - *Updated 8/18 with Edge CTS2 install click here =>*:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Phil G. is offline  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 08:58 PM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
Mark Kovalsky's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: SE Florida, USA
Posts: 11,582
My Photos: (6)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Catch-All View Post
I reckon it's a habit from driving a stick for decades. I never trusted the handbrake on my Toyota POS and so I'd put my foot on the brake and crank the engine.
That makes sense. I do that on my Lincoln LS. It's a stick, too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil G. View Post
Heck, it wasn't that many years if I recall that you could pull the shift lever out of part without your foot on the brake.
The first year for the shifter lock was 1992. That's a quarter century ago!

Mark
Former
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Automatic Transmission Engineer 1988-2007


“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.” ― Neil deGrasse Tyson
Mark Kovalsky is offline  
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 08:28 AM
Senior Member
 
Phil G.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,445
My Photos: (2)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quarter of a century ago.....Mark, oh why, oh why did you have to phrase it that way?

2007 F350 SRW 6.0L Auto, 3.73LS, 172"WB 4x4. Viper Alarm/RS, WD pillar Guages,AutoEnginuity, 100gal polished alum fuel tank.
All Sold: 99.5, early03 , 2004 - all were 172" wb 4x4 lariat's.

My Worklog - *Updated 8/18 with Edge CTS2 install click here =>*:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Phil G. is offline  
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 09:16 AM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
Mark Kovalsky's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: SE Florida, USA
Posts: 11,582
My Photos: (6)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews

Mark
Former
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Automatic Transmission Engineer 1988-2007


“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.” ― Neil deGrasse Tyson
Mark Kovalsky is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties > 1999-2007 General Questions

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome