2000 F250 7.3L - Water In Fuel Tank - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
1999-2007 General Questions General questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.

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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy 2000 F250 7.3L - Water In Fuel Tank

Patient: Ford F-250 7.3L Lariat Crewcab
Diagnosis: water/ condensation in the fuel tank
Treatment: fuel additive - "Diesel Kleen" or something like that - that emulsifies the water so it can be burned off. Supposedly it also de-gels and de-sludges the tank.
Prognosis: still fuxated, need advice.

Twice I've had problems with my truck where I let the tank get down to where the Fuel Low idiot-light came on. Each time, the engine began knocking and running poorly. And each time, I de-watered the Fuel/Water Separator, filled the tank up and the problem went away. The symptom is too much water getting into the Fuel/Water Sep (by the way, the fuel contamination idiot-light doesn't come on). But the cause of the disease is there's got to be too much water at the bottom of the tank for the Diesel-Kleen to be able to absorb and burn off.

I bought one of those El Cheapo siphons from an auto parts store but I can't seem to get the curves and kinks out of the clear plastic tubing. I want to get it pretty much straight so that when I remove the fuel-cap and feed the tube into the tank, I'll be sure it's going to the very bottom of the tank where the water is. Can anyone suggest a better way to de-water my fuel tank without it costing me an arm & a leg?

Thanks,
Mark/ Catch-All

2000 F-250 Lariat crew-cab. Bought used in early 2007 at 140k miles, now it's a little over 200k. Basic chip job via SuperTuner at Towing setting. Air Raid air filter. DieselSite thermostat and new housing. Dents repaired and Repainted white by MAACO. Aftermarket LED lights for pickup bed brake light and tail lights. Aftermarket headlights - CCFL halo lights. New fuel/water sep drain valve. New starter motor. New Glow Plug Relay. New alternator & serp belt. New tires all around (NEVER buy Uniroyal or Michelin - they're all junk and they don't honor their warranty). Repaired transmission housing & brake lines that WalMart dinged up during an oil & filter change. Truxedo roll-up tonneau cover. New upper & lower ball joints at 206k miles. New steering box. New tailgate. NEXT PROJECTS: DIY truckbed rust removal & heavy-duty coating, de-water fuel tank.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 11:03 AM
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Take it out and clean it. it is not to much work and you'll be sure that everything is clean.

what fuel filter do you have in? I would suggest to stick with the OEM one.

F350 2002 7.3

auto, 37/13.5/20 open country, Bushwaker cut-out flare, Bilstein 5100, Maxtow gauges (EGT, Trans temp, Boost), 4 inch diamond eye turbo back axel drop with BTM muffler, S&B intake, RR AIH plug, billet FPR with gold spring, CNCfab Sgt 1 HPOP, CNCfab HPOP line with cross over, CNCfab 4 line fuel kit, ARP heads stud, RDP plenum reinforcing insert, complete CAC intercooler boot kit, full engine seal and gasket kit, 360* turbo rebuilt, WWII, EGPV delete, dark blue CPS, Hydra chip with SDK tunes, Polished compressor manifold, HD coolant, 203* thermostat, Transgo HD kit, Energy suspension bushing kit, front and rear diff fully rebuilt with 4:88 gear ratio, Z36 powerstop heavy hauling brake kit, headlight relay mod, Fumoto drain valve AND STICKER

F350 2008 6.4 (sold)

TT 26' Springdale 2014
7x17 enclose trailer (shop) 2012
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 12:53 PM
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Why have you diagnosed it as water in fuel?

When you drain the fuel bowl into a clear glass jar do you see water and diesel?

If there is water in your tank then I think the Power Service 9-1-1 is better at removing water:

https://powerservice.com/wp-content/...B-8000_HR1.pdf

If you decide to drop the tank as mentioned above then it would be worth cleaning the two small filters (attached photo) and inspecting the pick-up "foot". These can crack off.
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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Yan7Gin and Arctic Driver - Thanks for replying!

I'm using the Fram fuel/water filter. And yes, every time I've had the Low Fuel light rough-engine issues, I drained water out of the fuel/water separator filter bowl. I used a turkey baster to get it damn near bone dry and sure enough I could see the water at the bottom of the clear glass I siphoned it into.

Mark/ Catch-All
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2000 F-250 Lariat crew-cab. Bought used in early 2007 at 140k miles, now it's a little over 200k. Basic chip job via SuperTuner at Towing setting. Air Raid air filter. DieselSite thermostat and new housing. Dents repaired and Repainted white by MAACO. Aftermarket LED lights for pickup bed brake light and tail lights. Aftermarket headlights - CCFL halo lights. New fuel/water sep drain valve. New starter motor. New Glow Plug Relay. New alternator & serp belt. New tires all around (NEVER buy Uniroyal or Michelin - they're all junk and they don't honor their warranty). Repaired transmission housing & brake lines that WalMart dinged up during an oil & filter change. Truxedo roll-up tonneau cover. New upper & lower ball joints at 206k miles. New steering box. New tailgate. NEXT PROJECTS: DIY truckbed rust removal & heavy-duty coating, de-water fuel tank.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 08:20 AM
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Maybe its your fuel source?

2000 F250 XLT 4x4 SC 7.3 w/Auto Tranny w/ TC L/U Sw & shift kit, 3 autometer gages, Super Zoodad, PHP Hydra chip, 4" DP/Exhaust w/dual 3.5" outlets, 275/70/18 Kumho AT51s on 8.5" rims, 08 AlumDiffCvr, Bilsteins, 31 row trans cooler, WW, BPV delete, AIH delete, hutch, harpoon and billet FPR (70psi), trans cooler bypass delete by accident, rear air bags, Jimmijammers.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 11:10 AM
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Rather than the 9-1-1 product I recommended above, here is the Power Service product that is specifically for your situation:

Clear-Diesel Fuel & Tank Cleaner | Power Service

You could use this until you have the time to drop the tank.

And here are the vendors in Louisiana:

Where to Buy | Power Service

I have found it at Wal-Mart in Florida.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Catch-All View Post
Yan7Gin and Arctic Driver - Thanks for replying!

I'm using the Fram fuel/water filter. And yes, every time I've had the Low Fuel light rough-engine issues, I drained water out of the fuel/water separator filter bowl. I used a turkey baster to get it damn near bone dry and sure enough I could see the water at the bottom of the clear glass I siphoned it into.

Mark/ Catch-All
In my research, there appears to be a general concensus to avoid FRAM filter products.

You can find RACOR and Motorcraft fuel filters online that are competitive with FRAM pricing.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 06:45 PM
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I would suggest to stick with oem
ArcticDriver likes this.

F350 2002 7.3

auto, 37/13.5/20 open country, Bushwaker cut-out flare, Bilstein 5100, Maxtow gauges (EGT, Trans temp, Boost), 4 inch diamond eye turbo back axel drop with BTM muffler, S&B intake, RR AIH plug, billet FPR with gold spring, CNCfab Sgt 1 HPOP, CNCfab HPOP line with cross over, CNCfab 4 line fuel kit, ARP heads stud, RDP plenum reinforcing insert, complete CAC intercooler boot kit, full engine seal and gasket kit, 360* turbo rebuilt, WWII, EGPV delete, dark blue CPS, Hydra chip with SDK tunes, Polished compressor manifold, HD coolant, 203* thermostat, Transgo HD kit, Energy suspension bushing kit, front and rear diff fully rebuilt with 4:88 gear ratio, Z36 powerstop heavy hauling brake kit, headlight relay mod, Fumoto drain valve AND STICKER

F350 2008 6.4 (sold)

TT 26' Springdale 2014
7x17 enclose trailer (shop) 2012
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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still fuxated

Okay, I finally had a chance to buy some of that stiff, opaque plastic tubing to attach to the siphon. The only problem is that when I took off the fuel cap and stuffed the hose in, it would only go about 2 or 3 feet and then stop.
*it felt kinda mushy when it bottomed out and wouldnt go in further
*I didn't hear any hard plastic-to-metal "tink" sounds when I stuffed the hose in
*the end of the hose wasn't wet with diesel fuel despite the tank being 1/2 - 5/8's full

Why can't the hose reach the bottom of the tank? Is there some kind of anti-siphon feature in F-250 fuel tanks to prevent theft? I mean....***, right?

As for fuel additives, my local Advance Auto carries both 9-1-1 and Diesel Kleen - I bought a quart of each. I'll alternate additives each time I fill up.

Meanwhile, I bought a new fuel/water sep drain valve from NAPA and installed that. At least now I can drain off the water periodically as it accumulates in the bottom of the filter.

2000 F-250 Lariat crew-cab. Bought used in early 2007 at 140k miles, now it's a little over 200k. Basic chip job via SuperTuner at Towing setting. Air Raid air filter. DieselSite thermostat and new housing. Dents repaired and Repainted white by MAACO. Aftermarket LED lights for pickup bed brake light and tail lights. Aftermarket headlights - CCFL halo lights. New fuel/water sep drain valve. New starter motor. New Glow Plug Relay. New alternator & serp belt. New tires all around (NEVER buy Uniroyal or Michelin - they're all junk and they don't honor their warranty). Repaired transmission housing & brake lines that WalMart dinged up during an oil & filter change. Truxedo roll-up tonneau cover. New upper & lower ball joints at 206k miles. New steering box. New tailgate. NEXT PROJECTS: DIY truckbed rust removal & heavy-duty coating, de-water fuel tank.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Catch-All View Post
Okay, I finally had a chance to buy some of that stiff, opaque plastic tubing to attach to the siphon. The only problem is that when I took off the fuel cap and stuffed the hose in, it would only go about 2 or 3 feet and then stop.

*it felt kinda mushy when it bottomed out and wouldnt go in further

*I didn't hear any hard plastic-to-metal "tink" sounds when I stuffed the hose in

*the end of the hose wasn't wet with diesel fuel despite the tank being 1/2 - 5/8's full



Why can't the hose reach the bottom of the tank? Is there some kind of anti-siphon feature in F-250 fuel tanks to prevent theft? I mean....***, right?



As for fuel additives, my local Advance Auto carries both 9-1-1 and Diesel Kleen - I bought a quart of each. I'll alternate additives each time I fill up.



Meanwhile, I bought a new fuel/water sep drain valve from NAPA and installed that. At least now I can drain off the water periodically as it accumulates in the bottom of the filter.

As i remember its a stait shot to the bottom of the tank...

That what the drain on the fuel bowl is for, drain your fuel/water periodically



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F350 2002 7.3

auto, 37/13.5/20 open country, Bushwaker cut-out flare, Bilstein 5100, Maxtow gauges (EGT, Trans temp, Boost), 4 inch diamond eye turbo back axel drop with BTM muffler, S&B intake, RR AIH plug, billet FPR with gold spring, CNCfab Sgt 1 HPOP, CNCfab HPOP line with cross over, CNCfab 4 line fuel kit, ARP heads stud, RDP plenum reinforcing insert, complete CAC intercooler boot kit, full engine seal and gasket kit, 360* turbo rebuilt, WWII, EGPV delete, dark blue CPS, Hydra chip with SDK tunes, Polished compressor manifold, HD coolant, 203* thermostat, Transgo HD kit, Energy suspension bushing kit, front and rear diff fully rebuilt with 4:88 gear ratio, Z36 powerstop heavy hauling brake kit, headlight relay mod, Fumoto drain valve AND STICKER

F350 2008 6.4 (sold)

TT 26' Springdale 2014
7x17 enclose trailer (shop) 2012
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 05:21 PM
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I linked this in Post #6.

The 9-1-1 will remove some water but the Power Service Silver bottle won't handle much water as you describe.

This is the product to buy and I sometimes see it at Wal-Mart:
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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 07:28 AM
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The second concern is how you are accumulating so much water in your fuel tank.

Does the truck sit for long periods? Are you using farm fuel stored in above ground tanks?

And a third concern is using a Biocide because 9-1-1 and PS Silver jugs are not Biocides.

.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

Last edited by ArcticDriver; 03-27-2017 at 07:32 AM.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticDriver View Post
The second concern is how you are accumulating so much water in your fuel tank.

Does the truck sit for long periods? Are you using farm fuel stored in above ground tanks?

And a third concern is using a Biocide because 9-1-1 and PS Silver jugs are not Biocides.

.
It doesnt sit long but I drive such short distances that I only have to fuel up twice a month. Not using farm fuel. I buy from name-brand fuel stations.

2000 F-250 Lariat crew-cab. Bought used in early 2007 at 140k miles, now it's a little over 200k. Basic chip job via SuperTuner at Towing setting. Air Raid air filter. DieselSite thermostat and new housing. Dents repaired and Repainted white by MAACO. Aftermarket LED lights for pickup bed brake light and tail lights. Aftermarket headlights - CCFL halo lights. New fuel/water sep drain valve. New starter motor. New Glow Plug Relay. New alternator & serp belt. New tires all around (NEVER buy Uniroyal or Michelin - they're all junk and they don't honor their warranty). Repaired transmission housing & brake lines that WalMart dinged up during an oil & filter change. Truxedo roll-up tonneau cover. New upper & lower ball joints at 206k miles. New steering box. New tailgate. NEXT PROJECTS: DIY truckbed rust removal & heavy-duty coating, de-water fuel tank.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 10:45 AM
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I droped my tank when I had your issue to make sure I got it all. What part of La are you in? I am by Lake Charles

2002 f250 7.3 4x4 256,000miles. Bone stock other than hutch mode and edge evo programer I use for gadges most of the time. I also have air bags on back for towing.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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I droped my tank when I had your issue to make sure I got it all. What part of La are you in? I am by Lake Charles
I'm over here by the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain, in Mandeville. Y'all got some good fishin' over in your redneck of the woods, especially big doormat flounder.

2000 F-250 Lariat crew-cab. Bought used in early 2007 at 140k miles, now it's a little over 200k. Basic chip job via SuperTuner at Towing setting. Air Raid air filter. DieselSite thermostat and new housing. Dents repaired and Repainted white by MAACO. Aftermarket LED lights for pickup bed brake light and tail lights. Aftermarket headlights - CCFL halo lights. New fuel/water sep drain valve. New starter motor. New Glow Plug Relay. New alternator & serp belt. New tires all around (NEVER buy Uniroyal or Michelin - they're all junk and they don't honor their warranty). Repaired transmission housing & brake lines that WalMart dinged up during an oil & filter change. Truxedo roll-up tonneau cover. New upper & lower ball joints at 206k miles. New steering box. New tailgate. NEXT PROJECTS: DIY truckbed rust removal & heavy-duty coating, de-water fuel tank.
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